Hiszpania
Logroño

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    • Dzień 4

      La Laurel

      20 lipca 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      This is a street in Logroño with dozens of food stands and street side food vending. And the best part is: everyone has at last one or two amazing vegan and vegetarian dishes and everything can be made gluten free, even the croquetas. Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 10

      Day 11. - Logrono

      9 maja 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      A long day, 27.8 kms, but good paths, cloudy , 20-degree temperatures with a sprinkling of rain the last 5 kms before reaching Logrono. We had been warned to fill up with water because of the few drinking fonts along this portion of the way. There were some steep sections, but generally short, or shorter than what we’ve experienced. As always, the descents are tougher -walking poles a godsend- but extra caution required, especially when using your knees as brakes.
      I started walking at 6:30, shortly connecting with a young teachers from Melbourne. As predicted, we compared our teaching experiences. Shortly afterward, a slim, 6-foot, four-inch, athletic man wearing a sombrero, garbed in a full priest’s frock, scampered past us while reading a book. He even had a white collar, only stopping long enough to acknowledge each of us as he passed by. I never saw him again.
      I also came across a young father walking the whole Camino with his six and eight year-old daughters. Their goal today was to do 17 kms, but he planned to do the whole route with them in 45 days. He was very impressive. He carried his six year-old up the steep climbs on his shoulders with the eight year-old in tow. As I passed them on the top of the hill I overheard the six year-old complaining about getting tired, to which he responded, “This is the discomfort we talked about dear. Life is about putting up with the discomfort.”
      I spent the rest of the walk into Logrono with a lady from North Carolina, and I reconnected with Thomas from Germany. At 2:00 I checked in to my hotel, rested a few hours then connected with a Kingston couple and a couple from England. We were hungry but nothing open until 8:00 when we went out for sushi. Long day again tomorrow.
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    • Dzień 18

      Logorno

      25 kwietnia 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      I discovered a new range of mountains today - the sierra de cebollera. They lie between Burgos and Logorno- and became my high point of the ride so far. Fortunately Burgos sits at 850m so there wasn't much climbing up them. However I didn't fancy much uphill Camino gravel for the first 20 k - so opted for the adjacent n102. This was undoubtedly the busiest road I've been on so far, with a procession of big trucks. The hard shoulder is broad and usually clean but never big enough with the lorries' draft. So it wasn't a hard decision to find a detour which was beautiful and quiet- but long.
      Over the hill and I drop out of the Douro catchment and into the Ebro which drains into the Med. I was strangely excited by this as a mark of my progress. The watershed also delineated the border between Castile y Leon and Rioja- the smallest Spanish county. And a return to vines. A shadow on the horizon delineates the next barrier- the Pyrenees.
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    • Dzień 117

      Das Pincho ist dem Basken sein Tapa

      24 listopada 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

      Heute Morgen wollen wir um 10.00 Uhr in Barcelona aufbrechen und einmal - fast vom Mittelmeer an den Atlantik fahren…..fast, weil wir in Logroño einen Zwischenstopp einlegen. Ina und Uli haben uns das nahe gelegt, deswegen wollen wir da jetzt hin.
      Aber erst einmal müssen wir unser Auto noch aus der Tiefgarage herausfahren. Das klingt trivial, ist es aber nicht. DieTiefgarage ist nur bis 195 cm zugelassen, unser Bully ist 199 cm hoch.
      Irgendwo ist also in der Tiefgarage eine Stelle, durch die wir nicht passen. Beim Reinfahren ging alles gut- hauptsächlich durch Mickys geschultes Auge….
      Nachdem Patrick zu Beginn unseres Aufenthalts ziemlich viel Zeit in dieser Garage zugebracht hat, begrüßt uns der Garagenmeister heute mit Handschlag. Er freut sich, dass hier mal was passiert und - weil er ursprünglich aus Marocco kommt - freut er sich auch, dass wir französisch sprechen. Gemeinsam schaffen wir das Auto aus der Garage und sind froh, dass die Spanier diesmal nur untertrieben haben.
      Bald schon liegt Barcelona hinter uns und die Landschaft beginnt sich zu verändern. Erst wird sie karg, dann wieder grüner, schließlich kommen die Berge dazu.
      Und immer wieder zwischendrin schwarze Stiere in Übergröße auf den Bergspitzen und Feldern.
      Micky hat diese Kuriosität sofort gegoogelt und dabei festgestellt, dass es sich bei diesen Stieren um den „Toro de Osborne“ handelt, die Silhouette eines Stiers - ursprünglich als großes Werbeplakat für die Marke Osborne an spanischen Straßen geplant. Im Laufe der Zeit wurde aus dem Markenzeichen ein Symbol für Spanien. Nun stehen die 14 m hohen und 4 Tonnen schweren Stiere ganz ohne Werbebotschaft da; insgesamt 88 verteilt über ganz Spanien. Kleine Randnotitz: die Katalanen haben keine dieser Stiere, dafür aber den Caganer. Der Caganer ist eine Krippenfigur, die es nur im katalanischen Kulturkreis gibt und die heißt übersetzt so viel wie „Scheißer“. Tatsächlich handelt es sich um eine Figur, die mit heruntergelassenen Hosen seine Notdurft verrichtet. Aufgestellt etwas abseits vom Jesuskind, soll der Caganer Glück bringen….Das ist so schräg, dass Micky sofort einen kaufen musste…
      Nach etwas über 4 Stunden kommen wir in Logroño an und freuen uns auf die Pinchos.
      Da es zum Essen noch zu früh ist, schlendern wir erst einmal durch die Altstadt dieser immerhin 150.000-Einwohnerstadt. Und die Altstadt ist schön.
      Außerdem lernen wir, dass Logroño eine wirklich alte Altsstadt ist. Erstmals mit Stadtrechten ausgestattet wurde sie um 1095. 1099 wurde Logrono zu einer wichtigen Pilgerstation am Jakobsweg. Wir haben die Muschel gefunden und sind ungefähr 150 Meter gepilgert…voller Selbsterkenntnis und mit wirklich großem Hunger sind wir dann Richtung der vielen Pinchos Bars gelaufen, die es hier geben soll….
      Und da ist es wieder…das Problem mit Wunsch und Wirklichkeit. Fast alle Bars waren geschlossen….🙈 Die verwaisten Bartische in den leeren Gassen machen uns fast depressiv. Micky googelt gleich, wie das aussieht, wenn hier was los ist.
      Normalerweise zieht man hier von Bar zu Bar, isst überall ein Pincho - in der Regel die Spezialität des Hauses und trinkt dazu Wein - Farbe egal, aber unbedingt einheimisch.
      Wir lassen uns den Spaß nicht verderben, finden zwei offene Bars, die gegenüberliegen und legen los. Vier Pinchos hier und später noch drei gegenüber. Micky trinkt einen Weißwein aus vier verschiedenen Rebsorten mit wenig Säure und ist begeistert. Dieses Partyessenkonzept gefällt ihr.
      Übrigens: Pinchos sind Tapas, die einfach nur anders dargeboten werden: auf Brotscheiben durch einen Holzspieß befestigt.
      Unsere Pinchos lagen schon länger in der Vitrine, deswegen essen wir nicht auf und gehen auf dem Heimweg ins Hotel, noch am Empanadastandel vorbei….
      Patrick drängt zurück ins Hotel…..Warum?
      FC Bayern, Stern des Südens, Du wirst niemals untergehen, weil wir in guten wie in schlechten Zeiten zueinander stehen……
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    • Dzień 9

      Day 6- Los Arcos to Logrono

      11 września 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

      Let’s name today “ what a difference a day makes” .Today was to be our short mileage day from Los Arcos to Viana a mere 11 miles away. Had a great night of sleep , had breakfast and we waited to leave till 8am as thunderstorms were in progress. We got on our way and as the rain had just stopped it was really wet and muddy. My shoes are no longer the color they were ! Then the rain came again. Not bad but showers on and off for a few hours,. So now I had to learn how to get the pack cover on and still have access to what I needed, hold the umbrella and 1 walking stick while stowing the other stick conveniently, deal with mud in shoes and wet feet. CJ of course had answers for everything and it is fun watching him do things as he is walking as it looks so easy….it’s not:). BTW I forgot to mention that I have now mastered how to get the water bottle out of its pocket in the backpack and back in while I am walking. For those of you that think this is easy…it’s not but after 5 days of trying , I have mastered that arm move… for the most part anyway. Then through a pack cover on and that just makes that move more complicated!!!
      So we are about 8 miles in and my knee is feeling good. On ibuprofen I was at 90% normal and when it wore off like 75% so we decide that 11 miles was too short so we huffed to Logrono for a total of 28 km or about 17.5 miles.
      This morning we had cloud cover most of the way so it was a delightful walk and we made really good time. We arrived in Vianna just as they were wrapping up some sort of bull running event. We got there to late to see it but as you will see in the pics everyone was wearing white and red clothes. Very boisterous crowd….
      So we have passed from the Navarro region to La rioja region. All day we were passing grapes orchards, almond trees, and olive trees. CJ had quite the fun getting the almonds off the trees and was very inventive as to how he cracked the shells. never seen a walking stick used like that before:) the almonds were soft and delicious ! Got to admit we did taste the grapes today… OMG a were they tasty!
      The views were spectacular again today even with the cloud cover. A few great rainbows as well.
      Our afternoon was in the sun again , warm but not as warm as the last 2 days. We stopped for a break at the 5km left mark and for fun thought we would face time with Susan. Pretty cool how you can stay connected 4000 miles away! We arrived at Logrono at around 4 , checked into our hotel and then we went for dinner. In Spain restaurants open at 8 pm… Logrono is known for its Tapa streets. Very cool vibe!
      We visited the main church in town which is huge and very old. It also has a Michelangelo painting on display!

      So pondering today was about watching CJ in his element. This is what he does and I have never had the opportunity to watch him do what he does and what he loves. Very cool to see how he navigates all the issues and how calm and “ at home” he is “on the trail” . As parent you always want to see your kids go forward in life and shape their path to something that fits them. There is no doubt that this is one of the things that bring him joy and happiness. So glad I am getting to experience this with him.
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    • Dzień 17

      Ventosa (19.5km / 180.8km)

      29 kwietnia 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      That was the most active night outside our Albergue! It was Friday night and the locals came out to play Lograno! The wildlife could still be heard at 4am. Not sure if it was something special or a normal Friday night!
      We had a much slicker pack up process in the shared rooms and set off early and stopped at a local bakery on the way.
      The walk was through the city to exit (a lot more noise than we have been used to) and then past the dam and into vineyard territory. We only passed one town Navarrete where we had lunch and popped into yet another stunning church (Iglesia Santa Maria de la Asunción) for such small town. Then a beautiful approach to our destination, Ventosa. After the regular process of check-in (they couldn’t find our reservation for a private room but luckily had a bed in an 8 bed dorm, shower, wash clothes, dry and then head off to the town for a drink / dinner.
      We ate with an NZ couple at 1 of the 2 dining options in town then back for an early night. Beunos Noches!
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    • Dzień 8

      Day 5 - “Rest day”

      20 września 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      “There are plenty of difficult obstacles in your path. Don't allow yourself to become one of them." - Ralph Marston.

      Day 5 - Sansol to Logroño by bus

      Today’s walk is called the “knee wrecker” due to the steep inclines and declines, and the many, many hills and valleys. Uuummm, no thank you. I took the bus just after 8 am and was to Logroño before 9. By 11 I had secured a private room (with its own bathroom) and left my bag at the pension while I went out to explore.

      Logroño is celebrating - Fiesta de San Mateo - all week. Now that’s a party! The day kicked off with a band and food tastings in the plaza. The line ups were crazy! One Pintxos or tapas for 3€, with a personal sized bottle of local wine. Such a good deal, I braved the lines to try two different ones - a chicken skewer at one and then bread with thinly sliced pork belly strip and homemade sausage. Both were excellent, and the wine was good too!

      Other than wander out a few times in the day, I did nothing. Felt a bit guilty as everyone else I know were slogging it out - particularly between Sansol and Viana. Got my laundry washed and dried at the Pension, Met up with Sabrina who gave me the necklace they had picked up for me. Tried and failed to book a physiotherapist to check on my ankle and no appointments tomorrow as it’s a national holiday. So, not sure what to do.

      Decided to head out to Calle de Laurel which is a street known for tapas bars (along with the surrounding streets). The place was hopping! Everyone is in party mode and they don’t have to work tomorrow. The streets were filled - and not one mask was to be seen. I tried 3 items and had 2 glasses of wine. First was an asparagus with ham and cheese tapas. Next was a charcoal grilled chicken skewer like this afternoon. Saved the best for last. A tapas sized roll with grilled Iberian pork, Brie and a secret sauce - some kind of garlic oil I think. I had to order again as it was freaking amazing!

      I knew Dave and Nancy were planning on hitting up the street too, so I messaged to let them know about this place. Within a minute of ordering again, they were there. They had already been roaming the street. Perfect timing! They ordered their beers and tapas and we just hung out, charred and people watched. What an amazing evening, full of good company, good vibes and zest for life!

      I have pretty much decided to walk to Navarette tomorrow. It’s only 13.1 km. But it is also mostly uphill. Can’t say it will be a fun day, but I will give it a go. What doesn’t kill us, makes us stronger, right?

      Now if only the people’s tv in the room adjoining mine wasn’t right by my ear, I might be able to get some sleep!
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    • Dzień 9

      There's a guy behind those trees playing

      30 maja, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      After a lot of stretching I decided to walk today, much slower than the others. The first 10km were ondulating countryside with Viana as the breakfast stop.
      I came across a man with an amp sitting behind a tree playing guitar shyly, so after a conversation he let me take a photo. That's today's drawing subject sorted. By the end of the 21Km my leg was hurting again, so am doing more stretching as that seems to help. On a positive my toes have stopped feeling bruised, so feet not hurting at all. Today I added Korea and Norway to my tally of nationalities. And French Canadians who are changing their socks three times a day. Czytaj więcej

    • Day 12 - Viana to Logroño - 10km

      10 września 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      I am in Logroño, the city that wouldn’t accept Jörg and me. This was the city that I had decided to get a hotel but after going to a couple and them saying they were full, we decided to leave the city and make the extra trek to Navarrete.

      It is Sunday so most things are closed except the restaurants and patios which are full of people. I arrived around 11:30am but the albergue didn’t open until 2, so I had to just wander around (however, I could leave my backpack). I have very little energy and am missing Jörg like crazy today.

      After checking in, I took a shower and settled in. I wanted to wash my clothes but there were people waiting to shower, so I decided I will do it tomorrow in Navarrete. I realized when I unpacked, that I left one of my walking t-shirts in the last albergue so now I only have one shirt. I will just wear it again tomorrow without washing.

      When sitting in one of the plazas, I accidentally left my phone behind. My watch had sent me a warning that I have been away too long from my phone then I realized exactly where I left it. I quickly walked back there and the people who were sitting near me had found it and picked it up for me. I could hear Jörg’s voice saying “You are so lucky Julie”

      It is 4:30 now and I am bored out of my head. I really don’t enjoy the big cities along the camino. If I was here in different circumstances, I am sure I would visit lots of tourist things, but I don’t want to walk too far. I want to conserve energy where I can.

      I ran into Kangmi and we may have dinner together. Other than that, I am signing off now. Tomorrow is a special day (which is why I think I am feeling a little down today). Navarrete is where Jörg first kissed me. But you will need to wait to tomorrow to hear all about that.

      TTYL
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    • Dzień 26

      Logroño

      17 maja 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Net terug uit de stad.. tijd voor mijn verhaal van vandaag..Toen ik vanochtend naar buiten keek zag ik iig de zon al en toen ik m'n fiets aan het opzadelen was voelde het ook al goed, beetje fris door de wind dus toch goed gekleed van start. Voor dat ik de stad uitreed fietste ik voor pelgrims door een hele oude poort van weleer en idemdito over een brug, zie foto's. Het begin van de route was een pittige heuvelreeks van wel 5 km, laat ik het zo zeggen, toen ik het erop had zitten had ik een natte rug en de eerste kledingwissel was een feit. Eigenlijk was het gehele traject een afwisseling van afdalingen en behoorlijke klimpartijen. Af en toe een stop voor een appel, stokbrood met jam en wat te drinken en zo sleurde ik me door de dag. Ik zag onderweg olijven boomgaarden en klaprozen staan, een mooi gezicht. Ik was te vroeg in Estelle om me daar te goed te doen aan de wijnfontein dus door... de wind was echt nog een frisse en soms wist je niet om wat aan te doen. Ik ben een paar keer bij een afdaling gestopt om toch weer iets extra's aan te trekken want als je naar beneden suist is het echt koud. De laatste 10 km denk ik scheen de zon zo lekker dat ik alleen een t-shirt met korte mouwen aan had met natuurlijk het reflecterende vest en zo reed ook uiteindelijk Logroño binnen. Ik zag nog net hoe een wandelaar van de St Jacobsroute een ambulance werd ingedragen, ik weet natuurlijk niet wat er aan de hand was maar dat kan dus ook gebeuren. Op een gebouw aan het water zag ik 2 ooievaars op een nest, fotootje natuurlijk en even een stempel scoren en daarna op zoek naar een hotel. Het is allemaal gelukt, bij een bierhaus een biertje en er is hier ook een Spaanse variant van KFC. Het was ok allemaal. Nu op m'n kamer en mijn verhaal op papier zetten en dadelijk weer lekker slapen. Vandaag was het 70+ km en dat zal er morgen nog eentje worden. Na morgen heb ik de 1700 km gepasseerd...
      Ik wil jullie bedanken voor de positieve opbeurende berichten, ze doen me goed!!
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    Możesz znać też następujące nazwy tego miejsca:

    Logroño, Logrono

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