Spain
Pedrafita do Cebreiro

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    • Day 30

      All over the map

      October 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Such a day! We drug our feet till 8:00 because it was so rainy, and finally set out s as daylight arrived. I was well ponchoed (is that a word?) and reconciled to a long walk through rain. After a climb I crossed into Galicia, Celtic Spain, and then entered O Cebreiro, where I visited the church where Fr. Elías Valiña Sampedro, who revived the Camino, lived and was buried. I was able to enter the church where he offered Mass and was buried. I need to read more about him!

      Then another looong downward climb. Morgan was ahead and I walked mostly with David and Ollie. I will miss them so much when we have to say goodbye! We got soaked, kept on, and then after lunch, voíla! No rain! A brisk wind stayed with us, and by the time we eased into Tricastela, we were quite dry. Amazing! Once it cleared off we were able to see some great vistas as we descended. A good day!

      Now it is raining again, but I’m warm and dry, perched on my top bunk listening to it come down. So cozy! Tomorrow a serious downpour is predicted. Two inches of rain!! We will swim to Sarria! We are so close to the end now, it’s hard to believe. I think I get happier every day, somehow. What will it be like to arrive in Santiago? I have no idea…
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    • Day 40

      O'Cebreiro to Triacastela

      October 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Today was a very different sort of day due to the weather!
      For the first time bar 1 afternoon at the beginning of the Camino we had rain!
      Not only did we have rain but we had tremendous wind. The trusty group of 4 just carried on regardless and it was actually so nice to not contend with the heat! According to Victor our horseman Spain has had the hottest Autumn in 60 years and don't we know it!
      The actual route today was very scenic with views over rolling hills and walking through numerous little villages, some very delapidated.
      We had breakfast before we left in the quaint village of O'Cebreiro which over the last 20 years has had a complete make over , with beautiful stone buildings including the church. We are certainly noticing a more " touristy " feel now and not so many waiters from the school of no charm.
      I thinks when we set off today we acknowledged a bit of rain falling but then had no idea how stormy the weather would be.
      Brian and I had bought ponchos from mountain warehouse before we left NZ being assured they would be fine. Maybe fine at a music concert but not in today's Galician wind! Brian's poncho was completely shredded.
      I thought at one stage I was going to take off in my Tilley hat and poncho like the flying nun!
      We loved stopping into cosy little cafes on the way and had coffees and delicious cream of vegetable soup. Lee is a definite soup fan and after loving the garlic soup now is loving the Galician soup..cabbage and potatoes . Have yet to try it.
      Our walk today took us through groves of huge oaks and chestnuts all turning colours. We walked through the back of cow sheds with cow pats all over the path and the smell of silage so it was certainly a very rural feel! A lot of the places have big alsatians tied up to ward the pilgrims off.
      Finally the wind died down and the rain stopped and had a great walk in to Triacastela passing a 100 year old chestnut tree.
      We are staying in a big hostel which also has dormitories so a bit of a reunion seeing some we hadn't seen for awhile including Guy the Welshman who greeted us with hugs . Tonight we will have a pilgrim meal for 13 euro.
      Only 5 more days of walking and then team of eights bubble will dissolve.
      The boys are already working out where we can watch the rugby tomorrow night and we have a sweepstake going. Funny enough all the Irish we met early on have disappeared and the Aussies are out, the Americans the Koreans and the Hungarians ( our latest friends) don't care so not much talk of the rugby. Maybe that's a good thing.
      Voting day tomorrow so hope the government of your choice gets in!
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    • Day 28

      O Cebreiro > El Beso

      October 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Captured a few moments of calm but again mostly had a battering by some FEROCIOUS wind and rain coming off the mountain. Sped up the distance by racing each other down the hill (long suffering knee did not greatly approve) fuelled by gigantic tortilla/bread slabs. Then stayed at fully VEEG eco place which we had to ourselves plus one crazy Korean guy 😂 Cak was 👌👌Read more

    • Day 35

      Liñares

      October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      Today was supposed to be a very challenging 2500+ foot climb which was going to be a challenge, but it turns out the hill wasn’t the big challenge of the day. We started out about 7am which would mean hiking in the dark for an hour and a half as the day awoke. All good so far…

      The first section was full headlights along a very quiet mountain road with only a couple of cars. The locals are pretty used to this but likely think we are crazy. As the sky started to lighten, we realized we were in a magical green countryside with cows eating in quiet fields and super quaint villages. We grabbed our classic Spanish breakfast at a stone albergue and then started the climb. Yes, it was steep but it was a walk through a wonderland of deep green forests with moss and fern laden stone walls lining the way. The path continued to a ridge with a small church at the top. It was absolutely one of the best days of hiking in my life.

      From here, there was a few miles to the summit and the village of O’Cebreiro with nine remaining pallozas, or round houses. They are thought to be over 1000 years old. A very special place.

      I was amazed at the ease of our climb today. Either over a month of hiking has conditioned us, or the fact that we found our first switchbacks in Spain made the climb seem easier than anticipated. I just imagine some young whipper snapper Galician engineer, trying to prove himself, say “why go straight up the hill? Some switchbacks could save energy!” That’s my thought anyway 😂.

      And now for the true challenge of the day. We are staying in the village of Liñares where we booked an albergue a week ago. Turns out there are two Liñares in Spain and our booking was in the Linares hundreds of miles away. So no room for the night and some of our luggage was set to go to a place that isn’t even on the Camino 😢. Well, they say the Camino provides and it does. The Camino Liñares only has one place to stay and they had just two beds left! AND they got on the phone and found our bag. To make it all better, the two people in the beds across from us are our new super friends Sara and Andrew. The Camino continues to provide and amaze.
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    • Day 42

      Montée accomplie

      May 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Une montée sur 8 km et une ascension qui a atteint 1300 mètres Belle journée température idéale,
      L'australie était bien représentée nous avons croisé trois couples.
      La forme physique était au rendez- vous nous avons marché sur des chemins de roches qui auraient été
      dangeureux à la pluie, heureusement on en a été épargné.
      Arrêt à la petite cathédrale de
      O Cebreiro , accompagné par des chants grégoriens, nous avons passé un petit moment spirituel calme pour constater un jeu de lumière derrière l'hôtel avec la croix du Christ qui reflète l'ombre de deux croix des pêcheurs à ses côtés lors de la crucifixion(photo)

      En pleine réflexion de poursuivre notre périple pour se trouver une auberge pour coucher.

      Nous avons décidé de poursuivre et avons trouvé une auberge 7 km plus loin fans une petite ville appelée Hospital.
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    • Day 29

      Etappe 24 - Fonfria 1

      October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Nach einer "völlig daneben" verbrachten Nacht in einer super Auberge, regnet es heute auch noch. Mal schauen was das wird.
      Ab 8.00 Uhr können wir hier frühstücken. Gegen 1/2 9.00 Uhr breche ich auf. Rucksack hat schon den Regenüberhang aufgezogen bekommen. Regenjacke liegt bereit, Hut ebenfalls.
      Regenponcho musste ich überziehen. Erlebe die wunderbaren Ausblicke von den Bergen leider nicht.
      Am Grenzstein zu Galicien wurde mir bewusst, daß nun die letzte Provinz Spaniens auf meinem Weg nach Santiago de Compostela betreten wird und die Pilgerfahrt sich langsam, aber sicher, ihrem Ende naht.
      Heute bin ich bereits vier Wochen unterwegs!
      Im Museumsdorf O Cebreiro fühlt man sich wirklich wie bei Asterix und Obelix, nur der Druide fehlt mit dem Zaubertrank.
      Regen begleitet mich schon seit Stunden.
      Bin auch unter dem Poncho durch - völlig verschwitzt!
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    • Day 30

      La Laguna

      June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

      Took another break at La Laguna; now only 2 km away from O Cebreiro and the summit

      Most of the people in this two shots are Americans on Camino

      That lady in green shirt and the lady in blue shirt are mother-daughter team riding bicycles
      they are from Montana and the daughter actually works for Yellowstone National Park

      The views are still very good
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    • Day 48

      Fonfria (13.8km / 625.8km)

      May 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      We left just as the sun was coming up and the views over the valley and the mountains were breathtaking. The only sounds to be heard were birds and cow bells. The path was dry despite a little rain the day before and not too bad. We entered into our final Spanish province - Galicia and miraculously the path improved for our upward trudge to O’Cebreiro, an idyllic mountain village. The recordings of band pipes reminding us of its Celtic past. We had our 1st breakfast here, and the little coffee shop was packed with pilgrims. We continued along the stunning path, up and down a couple of hills, stopping continuously to take photos until we reached our destination of Fonfria which is a typical Galician village.
      On the walk we met our first South Africans! A retired couple from near Paarl who said this is the cheapest way to travel in Europe!
      We had a drink before dinner with our new friends and were surprised to see and old friend “Roberto!”. We went to a separate building fir a great communal dinner. The building was built 25 years ago using traditional building methods. A large circular building with thatched roof. We ended with a cheeky Spanish brandy before bed!
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    • Day 30

      Day 30: Sarria

      October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      This morning we leapfrogged by taxi once more, driving an hour from Camponaraya to Sarria. We paralleled the Camino much of the way, deferring the steep hike up to O Cebreiro for our next Camino, whenever that may be.

      Teo, our driver, pointed out apple and pear orchards along the route, and told us slate is mined and exported to England and other northern European countries as a roofing material.

      We snapped photos as we drove past a large Benedectine structure, el Monasterio de San Julián de Samos, and arrived in Sarria a short while after.

      We’re staying in a small three room hostal here, right along El Camino.

      Tomorrow’s plan is for me to walk 17 kilometers to Mercadoiro, while Allan covers that distance by taxi with our backpacks. Many pilgrims start their Camino here in Sarria, so I expect the route will be far from deserted.
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    • Day 37

      Windy and Rainy Walk to Triacastela

      October 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 46 °F

      Today we walked 22 km or so to Triacastela. It was super windy and quite rainy at times. The trail was beautiful, sometimes through farmland and sometimes through the woods. It was pretty cold, especially when our gloves and shoes and hats got wet. I’m not an expert on wind speed but the gusts up on top of the ridge today were hard enough to knock us off balance!

      We stopped for hot chocolate and a sandwich when our fingers were getting super cold. It helped a lot!

      We saw a few cows out grazing but many cows were in their barns in the little villages. We were surprised to see the pilgrim monument we took a picture of. Poor pilgrim looks like he’s been fighting the wind since the Middle Ages.

      We were glad to get out of O Cebreiro. It’s cute but it’s a place that has a “we don’t really like pilgrims” vibe. The innkeepers and residents were not friendly at all. I kept waking up at 4, then 5, then 6 because I was anxious to leave. Triacastela is cute and our Belgian innkeepers are nice!

      Can you believe that tomorrow night we’ll be in Sarría, the starting point for 100 km pilgrimages? We have to be sure to get two dated stamps in our pilgrim’s credentials each day to qualify for a compostela, a certificate of completion, at the end of our Camino. It should not be hard; each day we’ll get a stamp at our lodging place and at any bar (coffee shop) or church we stop at. The distance markers we are seeing are now in the 130 km range! In Galicia, the markers are very precise, measuring the distance to Santiago in thousandths of kilometers, which means each marker tells you the precise number of meters to St. James’ tomb in Santiago.

      Edit: Here in Triacastela we are in such a nice pension (inn). We just went out for a wonderful dinner (for 13€ each we got first course, second course, water, wine for me, and dessert). David’s been fun, joking and having a great time, and I’m having a great time with him. Still, sitting by the fire at the inn before we go up to our room he asked, “What country are we in again?” We choose to be upbeat and joyful in spite of our challenges but sometimes it’s hard to watch his cognitive abilities slip away 😢.
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    Pedrafita do Cebreiro

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