Espanja
Terradillos de Templarios

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    • Päivä 27

      Moratinos

      1. lokakuuta 2022, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Z opóźnieniem dwu dniowym nadrabiamy straty w opisywaniu naszej drogi.
      Dopiero teraz widzę jak bardzo jest się daleko od bycia przepełnionym dobrem i jak łatwe jest mówienie o filozofii życia a z drugiej strony jak trudno jest nią żyć . Jak przyjemnie było napisać pierwsze zdanie dnia poprzedniego, w które w sumie bardzo mocno wierzę a jak trudno było z nim żyć. Słabości ciała i duszy i wiary w coś co jest dobre jest nieodłączną częścią życia ale również świadomość że jest droga, która akceptuje Cię bezwzględnie gdziekolwiek zaczynasz i to sposób absolutny tylko trzeba ją zaakceptować i chcieć nią podążać. I najpiękniejsze jest to że nie ważne jak bardzo zboczysz ona zawsze jest i możesz wrócić.
      Dzisiaj nie było zabytków może jedynym zabytkiem była droga, pochodząca z czasów Augustyna. Rzymianie zbudowali ją do przewożenia złota i innych cennych metali. Po 17 km mieliśmy pierwsza wioskę. Po drodze na około 8 km stał trak z kawą,herbata i kanapkami. Generalnie tylko droga.
      Calzadilla de la Cueza tak naprawdę składała się z baru,który był otwarty i kościoła,który był zamknięty. W barze jak to w barze był barman, miał cztery zęby ale był pełen życia i humoru. Zamówiłem grande cerveza i dostałem do stolika kieliszek z piwem o po pierwotnie kamiennej twarzy rozlał się uśmiech pokazujący właśnie cztery zęby i druga ręka zza pleców wystawił wielki kufel zimnego piwa, bezcenne.😂
      Później już tylko droga z pomału podwyższająca się temperaturą.
      Bardzo szybko przeszliśmy przez Ledigos gdzie zamieniliśmy parę słów z Asia i Kamilem naszymi przyjaciółmi z Camino i później następne wyglądające na opuszczone miasteczko Teradillos de los Templarios . Kiedyś mieścił się tu kościół należący mnichów rycerzy Templariuszy. Tak na marginesie zakon działał przez około 200 lat ochraniał pielgrzymów i robił inne rzeczy. Ich wielki mistrz Jacques de Molay w piątek 13 w 1307 roku został oskarżony za herezje( czytaj niewygodny partner polityczno-ekonomiczny) i szybko spalony na stosie przez ówczesne władze kościoła.
      Pewnie od tego bierze się pechowy piątek 13.
      Na noc dotarliśmy się do Moratino.
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    • Päivä 18

      Day 16 not walking!

      25. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      So I took a taxi by myself in the end, another chap was planning to go with me, he’s resting due to losing toe nail, but he was too unwell to travel. We’ve been refilling our water bottles from bought mineral water and just today several people have complained of upset tums, so we’ll be continuing our safer strategy!
      So I’ve checked into modern purpose built Albergue in Terradillos de los Templarios, obviously linked the Templar Knights. We have private twin room 😊
      One of the surprises to me, has been the mix of nationalities walking the Camino, prob approx 1/3 are from the East (Asia or the Orient), another 1/3 from America and last 1/3 from Europe, with scattering of antipodeans too! All seem willing to help others, although it’s very tricky when there is no common language and the culture is so different as we’ve seen with the Koreans. So there is good camaraderie and we do keep bumping into same people in different places or en route! One of the challenges in sharing a dorm is that a lot of people like to get up and start walking very early, and although they make an effort to be quiet, 3/4 of our dorm had left before 6am this morning!!!
      So my toe is improving every day and I did 5km test walk locally after I checked in, it feels ok but doesn’t look great, so I’m little unsure when to start walking again.
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    • Päivä 21

      Halfway point stocktake

      12. huhtikuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      SJPP to Santiago de Compostela is hard to nail down as a distance, surprisingly, everyone has a different number but it's usually around the 780km mark. This is just the trail, obviously, the wandering around after the day is done is extra.

      So I reckon this 390km to go mark in Terradillos de los Templarios (named after the Knights Templar) will do as a mid point.

      Some quick stats:

      Days on Camino: 18
      Days walking: 16
      Rest days: 2 (Pamplona and Burgos)
      Distance walked: 498km, 70,1175 steps
      Average daily cost: €31.70/$51 (albergue €11.70/$18.70, food and drink €20/$32)
      Blisters: 2, very minor, both on toe tips
      Shoe status: minor wear on inside heels
      Cats pat: 12

      I've walked nearly 500km? But I'm so tiny! Will you please note in this photo my ingenious hands free snack device, such as you might see attached to a horse or another barnyard animal. I've put a bag of chips in it. Immensely satisfying, tomorrow I might try suspending a piece of cake on a fishing rod just out of reach.

      I mean all this is to assume I'm actually doing the Camino. Keen eyes will have noted the length of this trip is 49 days, imagine if I was smashing out a Survivor season instead and just doing a phenomenal job of covering my tracks? We may never know.
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    • Päivä 22

      The Walk of life...

      20. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Carrion - Terradillos de los Templarios
      Day 19 - 26km

      So far, we have wandered through amazing rolling hills and conjured up pictures of Julie Andrew's running down the valley singing 🎵
      The hills are alive 🎵
      We have wandered into Burgos, through the fashionable district, looking very much like the sweaty pilgrims which we were, and felt we fitted in like Crocodile Dundee as he walked the streets of New York...
      We have wondered into deserted towns, pictured the tumbleweed rolling before us and felt like we were in a westen movie and about to have a showdown with the sheriff...
      Today however, we felt like Forest Gump, who woke up one day and just went... and went and went on.... 🚶‍♂️🚶‍♂️🚶‍♂️🚶‍♂️🚶‍♂️🚶‍♂️🚶‍♂️
      We are in the Mesta, the land is barren...the road was looong ...🙄 The one saving grace was a coffee/food van in the middle of our day .
      Staying in a cool spot though and just had a lovely meal... and after a 31km day, a 29km day and a 26 km day in a row, we have just a measley, teeny weeny 23kms tomorrow 😌 🤣😳.
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    • Päivä 21

      Day 20, Carrion to Terradilos

      12. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Today’s walk wasn’t a favourite, to be honest. It was long (26.7 km) and less than wondrous. We walked for extended stretches without much visual stimulation - the sky was overcast and the flatlands on either side of the path somewhat monotonous. Though there are always the wildflowers and the birds.
      We left our lovely monastery hotel around 7am, keen to stock up on extra water because we knew the first opportunity to refill was 17kms away. Bizarrely, the cold tap in our room was spewing warm water this morning. We asked the guy at reception if he could provide us with cold water - but he filled our bladders with warm water too. We passed a drinking water tap on the road and it was hot too. I have no idea what was going on with the local water supply!
      7km in, we were delighted to see a van selling breakfast - in my case green tea, freshly squeezed orange juice and toast with olive oil and tomatoes. All delicious. Janice and Sheryl joined us. Day after day, we set off at different times from different accommodation yet always seem to reach the food stops within 10 minutes of each other. Fiona and I had two more stops before reaching Terradilos. 3km short of our destination, on our final stop, we met up again with Rachel who has been ahead of us but is sharing a 4 person dorm with us tonight. Each bed cost 13 euros so we’ve bought the fourth one to avoid having to share with a stranger. It still seems odd to me that you could end up sharing a room with a man you’ve never seen before. And there is always the fear of the loud and erratic snorer.
      The afternoon brought the usual thunder storm - just hope this pattern of morning sun interspersed with cloud followed by afternoon rainstorms continues for us. So far, it has allowed us to finish our walk just before the downpour.
      Tomorrow Fiona and Rachel are taking a different route from me - they’ve chosen to walk the old Roman road which is described as desolate but beautiful in my guidebook. Though that sounds wonderful, I’m going to take the more commonly walked Camino path because there are lots of warnings about how hard the Roman road is on the feet and I am, of course, rather feet-obsessed. Since we’ve got a long day whichever route we choose, I’d rather not risk the tougher one. It means that tomorrow night I will be staying on my own in a dormitory and going on to Leon ahead of Fiona on Wednesday. I feel quite nervous!
      And despite all my precautions a little blister has appeared between my toes. Not the worst place for a blister but I just don’t know how it got there. Ah well, must get the sewing kit out again, I suppose.
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    • Päivä 16

      16. DAY | 25 km

      14. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Wenn der Camino ruft, dann geh...

      Ich habe die letzten zwei Wochen immens viele Menschen kennengelernt und eines hatten wir alle gemeinsam: Der Camino hat uns gerufen. Wenn du dich für diesen Weg entschiedest, dann musst du es von ganzem Herzen wollen und bereit sein. Ich wusste schon immer, dass ich mental stärker bin als körperlich und dass macht es mir hier definitiv etwas einfacher, denn dass ist das was dich hier antreibt vorwärts bringt durchhalten lässt und unfassbar dankbar und glücklich macht. Mir hätte es nichts gebracht, hierfür zu trainieren viel mehr wandern zu gehen oder anderes, denn wenn dein Körper nicht mehr kann dann musst du von innen dagegen ankämpfen. Es ist fast Halbzeit es fehlen nur noch 25 km bis zur goldenen Mitte meines Wegs und ich kann aus voller Überzeugung sagen, dass ich hier sein muss. Es ist die schönste Reise meines Lebens, denn was hier passiert kann nur hier passieren.

      Elli

      Quando il Camino chiama, vai...

      Nelle ultime due settimane ho incontrato un numero immenso di persone e tutti avevamo una cosa in comune: il Camino ci ha chiamati. Se si sceglie di percorrere questo cammino, bisogna volerlo con tutto il cuore ed essere pronti. Ho sempre saputo di essere più forte mentalmente che fisicamente e questo mi rende sicuramente tutto cio più facile, perché è questo che ti spinge ad andare avanti. Sono incredibilmente grata e felice. Non mi sarebbe servito a nulla allenarmi per questo, tanto meno fare escursioni o altro, perché quando il tuo corpo non ce la fa più, devi combattere dall'interno. Sono quasi a metà strada, mancano solo 25 km a metta dell mio cammino e posso dire con piena convinzione che dovevo essere essatamente adesso qui. È il viaggio più bello della mia vita perché quello che succede qui può accadere solo qui.

      Elli
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    • Päivä 24

      Terradillos de los Templarios

      28. syyskuuta 2022, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

      Today we walked 16.7 miles on a cold, windy, straight road in the middle of nowhere Spain and loved every minute of it. We are in a great albergue tonight sharing a room with a father/son duo from Denmark. Their English is amazing and we just finished having dinner with them and had a wonderful conversation. They have warned us of their snoring and I have warned them of my coughing so maybe they are the perfect roommates?? Or, there may not be much sleeping tonight.

      All in all it was a great day walking on the Meseta.

      Buen Camino!!
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    • Päivä 14

      Compostela

      30. heinäkuuta 2022, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

      Santiago de Compostela derives its name from the myth that, all the way along the Way of St James, the Milky Way will lead you towards it.

      This is obviously incorrect, but for about two weeks in summer and in the Meseta it is as close to true as it can be.

      Last night I went outside to see the stars and let them guide me. Cell phone pictures do, of course, not do this justice, but with a magnificent sky above me, the galaxies of the Milky Way pointing West toward my goal, even I could and wanted to believe it.
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    • Päivä 26

      Day 20 - Ledigos to Bercianos

      9. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      I’ve been pretty neglectful in updating my footprints since I got sick. One more day of antibiotics to go, and feeling better while simultaneously fighting competing infections. I’m going to try to back post for the last 10 days or so, but it could take a while.

      A little over a week ago, I received a message from the hostel I’d booked in Bercianos warning me about a festival on the night of my arrival. Schedules being what they are, I kept my reservation.

      I started this morning just after 7 from the lovely La Morena hostel in Ledigos. I walked out under cool temperatures with bolts of lighting lighting up the distant sky. I passed through Terradillos de Los Templarios, a town which obviously embraces its Templar history.

      Last night I got a message from my Mom asking for more landscape pictures. The truth is, in the meseta the landscape doesn’t really change. It’s a long gravel path, which you can see for kilometers, surrounded by brown fields if harvested wheat, dying sunflowers, and newly tilled fields. But, yeah, I took pictures for her anyway…

      The highlight of the day was the arrival in Sahagun - the geographical halfway point of the Camino Frances. In reality, I passed the halfway point yesterday - but it was still nice to take pictures at the monument and collect my halfway certificate as well!

      Another ten kilometers lay before me after Sahagun, but fortunately clouds filled the sky and along with a cool breeze it made the walking quite lovely. I listened to an audiobook as the kilometers ticked away.

      I arrived in Bercianos mid-afternoon to find my pilgrim hostel filled up with locals drinking at the bar. I’m not sure what this festival is - something about music? But as the email suggested, it’s a bit loud - and the music hasn’t even started yet!

      I was happy to find Jeanette and Betina at the hostel - so we raised a glass and ate pizza in celebration of our accomplishments! 26k for today - so feeling a bit worn, but no doubt ready to tackle what tomorrow will bring!
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    • Päivä 15

      Tag 15: Carrión - Terradillos

      5. maaliskuuta, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      — Halfwaypoint —
      Was zeichnet den Camino aus? Das war für mich wohl die Frage des Tages, als ich die alte Römerstraße ‚Bordeaux-Astorga’ entlanglief.
      Der Weg zog sich durch die endlosen Weiten der Hochebene und dem Auge bot sich wenig Abwechslung.

      Ich dachte zurück an meine letzte Wanderung durch Dänemark und Deutschland. Was unterschied diese beiden Erlebnisse voneinander?
      So richtig greifen konnte ich es noch nicht, denn das eine habe ich bereits von Anfang bis Ende erlebt, beim anderen stecke ich noch mittendrin.
      Ein großer Unterschied sind aber auf jeden Fall die Landschaften und Städte.
      Es gibt andere Pflanzen zu sehen, andere Tiere, eine andere Kultur. Der Camino wird begleitet von einer über 1000 Jahre alten Geschichte, sodass sie für viele zum Protagonisten der Reise werden kann. Dennoch ist sie für mich nur Nebenschauplatz.
      Eine Sache unterscheidet meine beiden großen Wander-/Pilgererfahrungen nämlich voneinander: Das eine Mal war ich fast nur allein, nun bin ich fast nur unter Menschen.
      Obwohl ich mich heute aktiv aus dem gemeinsamen Wandern herausgezogen habe, sind es wohl die Begegnungen, die dem Camino seine ganz eigene Atmosphäre geben. Er lädt Menschen ein, nicht beim Oberflächlichen zu verweilen, sondern auch mal hinter die Fassade zu schauen.
      So wurden heute bei ausgiebigen Pausen in der Sonne unter anderem Fragen diskutiert, wie: „Wenn du 30 Jahre zurückschaust, was hättest du anders gemacht?“ „Warum bist du religiös?“ „Was braucht unsere Gesellschaft?“ „Wo ist mein verdammtes Sitzkissen abgeblieben?!“

      Alles in allem macht es großen Spaß, sich mit den anderen und ihren Sichtweisen auseinanderzusetzen und so würde ich als Zwischenfazit sagen, dass das sich immer wieder Begegnen, Austauschen und gemeinsame Erleben, den Camino zu einer gemeinschaftlichen und spirituellen Erfahrung macht, die es in der Form wahrscheinlich auch nur hier gibt.
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