Camino de Santiago 2022

“Limitless and immortal, the waters are the beginning and end of all things on earth.” – Heinrich Zimmer

Day 38 - Finesterre

So lovely to be able to sleep in, rise when I want and not have to worry about disturbing others in a dorm. A private room is a blessing!! And I took full advantage today!!

Finally left the house by 10am and walked into town to have a last breakfast with Annette. She’s off to Portugal tomorrow and needed to get back to Santiago today. It was lovely meeting her and spending time together, but this really was goodbye!! When I went to the bus with her, I also saw Paula, from Germany there. Wonderful to be able to say goodbye to her as well, as she is off home tomorrow. Goodbyes are hard :-(

After they were both on the bus, I walked up to the Cape and lighthouse - (8km round trip from my accommodations). Funny how that seems a rather insignificant amount now lol! Off I go - and it’s uphill the whole way. Seriously. Other than getting out of town which is a slightly steep climb (but not steep, steep), the rest of the way was a gradual incline. Sky was overcast and it started raining at least 2 times in the first kilometre, necessitating the whole poncho on, poncho off, poncho on, poncho off routine. I was sweating like crazy from not only the uphill at a decent clip, but the damned poncho exercise. It was also crazy windy so the poncho constantly flapped when it was on. I was able to walk a bit without it, and unzip my fleece to cool down a bit. Of course that was like giving the finger to the rain Gods and the heavens opened. Fast, hard and driving sideways in the brutal wind! I got my poncho back on before I got too wet, other than my legs. I stayed put near a small trash can while the rain blew every which way as I took the signage literally about wind and falling off the cliff. What a great ending that would be - and I wasn’t quite ready for that. After about 5 mins the wind and rain had both slacked off a bit so I made a move to continue. Within 5 mins the rain had stopped and the sun was out. I was dodging rain run-off rivers on the path …but I kept the poncho on :-) By the time I was close enough to see the cape, I took the poncho off. Of course I did t put it away just yet as I wasn’t tempting the rain Gods again!

I finally made it and had some strangers take a couple of photos of me at the 0.000km marker.

The Romans thought that this was the earth's westernmost point and therefore that the world ended here. It was the finisterrae, or land's end.

Either out of curiosity or to live an adventure, the Cabo Fisterra cape has been a magnet since ancient times, attracting travellers from distant countries and, with less luck, the many ships that shipwrecked in its waters.

Before the arrival of Christianity, the Europeans already treated Fisterra as a mandatory place of pilgrimage. However, it was following the discovery of the tomb of the Apostle when the western Atlantic route reached its maximum splendour. The Road to Santiago, guided by the stars of the Milky Way, finishes here, in front of the Ocean. Thus, the visitor who looks out from this promontory will not only contemplate the beauty of the magnificent views, but will also be participating in a myth that has both terrified and drawn mankind for thousands of years.

Today, with its powerful lighthouse, Cabo Fisterra still has a special attraction for Way of St. James pilgrims, whose journey does not end until they get here. According to tradition, pilgrims burnt their clothes on the seashore before beginning their homeward journey. This is of course not encouraged - and indeed carries a fine if you are caught doing so.

It was hella windy up here and went down the stairs beside the lighthouse, to the rocks at the end end of the point. No word of a lie, the wind was the fiercest thing I had even felt. It could easily pick up a small child and whip them away (don’t try this - just trust me!). In order to get to the rocks, you need to bend low and basically crab walk across them so you don’t get blown over. There is no cover and no shelter here and I would not be surprised to find people had been swept off the rocks by the wind. The area is actually called the Coast of Death - but that has more to do with all the shipwrecks that have occurred here.

I made it to the cross that sits on a promontory below the lighthouse. It was a bit dangerous due to the winds, but totally exhilarating. Thankfully it is not too close to the edge, or I wouldn’t have had the guts to do it. This is apparently the true END of the Camino. It’s said that a pilgrim needs to touch the cross to be done their pilgrimage. Knowing I won’t be walking to Muxia, I did this for my own closure.

I moved along so others could enjoy the space, but sat in the rocks here and just let the wind buffer me. I just sat and contemplated life for a bit, my Camino and how I felt about getting to Cape Finesterre. I laughed into the wind and looked like a lunatic while I took some selfies :-) When I was done, I walked up above the lighthouse and ended up in the bar with a glass of wine, watching the wild coast. I wish the lighthouse had been open but sadly it was not.

When I had had my fill of this amazing area, I headed back to town, somehow lighter in my soul. I find the sea does that though. I really should live my the sea - I feel such an afinity for it and it calms me. Even in windy, turbulent conditions.

The rain held off for my walk back (3km into town) until just before I got to town. Poncho on. I met Naba whom I had met yesterday at the bus station and we decided to get a late lunch together at a restaurant that had been recommended. Poncho off (for the final time as it turns out!!). As with all the best places here, the restaurant was an unassuming hole in the wall with a couple of tables outside, a run down looking bar area and a lovely dining room upstairs. We shared a plate of calamari (lightly and perfectly battered), and each had seafood soup and a scallop au gratin - all amazing and decently priced.

We walked around town for a while and out to the end of the pier. Finally grabbing an ice cream around 5pm before saying our goodbyes. She’s off to Santiago tomorrow on her way to Barcelona and I’m off to Muxia tomorrow for 2 days by the sea there. I took my time walking back to my room, stopping to take photos and watch the sea.

Arriving back at my accommodation, I hung out and chatted with a pilgrim Minette from Alberta and we were able to have tea and watch the world go by - still no rain! We were both shocked that it had been hours since the last rain, and we lapped up the sun on the terrace for a while.

As it turned cooler, I headed inside for a quick light dinner and some reading. Perfect way to end this special day!Read more