Camino Frances

August - September 2022
A 14-day adventure by Maria & Jessica Read more
  • 14footprints
  • 1countries
  • 14days
  • 215photos
  • 17videos
  • 6.8kmiles
  • 5.9kmiles
  • Day 13

    Final day in Santiago de Compostela

    September 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Stayed 2 nights at the Hotel Costa Vella. Again a small room but very cozy and

    Juan found out through his sister that someone from the US paid to have the Botafumeiro swing during the 9:30am Mess, so we met there and it was quite impressive as you can see from the video.

    It was fun exploring the old town of Santiago with all the little alleys and people everywhere. Also stores and restaurants everywhere. The Cathedral is absolutely majestic, nothing that my iPhone camera could even try to capture, so you’ll just have to look at the pics on the web.

    We ended with a nice dinner with the two couples and I packed my bag again for a next day departure to Barcelona. Before leaving I had a very nice breakfast at the Hotel.

    Barcelona here we come - 3 nights at the Yurbban Ramblas - then home sweet home.
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  • Day 12

    Santiago de Compostela

    September 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Early start after having a quick coffee and toast at the Pension O Muino. I couldn’t wait to get to Santiago de Compostela.
    So excited to reach Monto do Gozo where you can see the city of Santiago de Compostela below you. Just a few more km to go.

    The markers along the entire route have been so consistent and they were everywhere- on the side of houses, on the ground, on sign posts - everywhere. But suddenly as we are entering Santiago, there were just a few, pointing straight ahead, and then just stopped.
    But of course , pilgrims know that they get the Compostela somewhere by the Cathedral and you could see the cathedral’s spires from almost anywhere.

    There where so many pilgrims at this point, I just followed them and all worked out perfectly. Got my Compostela within about 10 minutes.
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  • Day 10

    Arzua

    September 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    After a really comfortable stay at the Hotel Lux in Melide, it was time to get to Arzua.

    In Arzua I am stayed at the hotel 1930 which was a bit of a disappointment. Small room and I felt like it was a bit damp, didn’t really sleep well.

    Had dinner with the Sac people and 2 more Americans joined up with us. Had a really nice cheese appetizer with delicious local cheese. Then I had a meat lasagna and the local cheese mousse with blueberries- it was delicious.

    They had an interesting market the day I got there.
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  • Day 9

    Melide

    September 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Easy 11 miles of walking today. Rain off and on, at times pretty heavy.
    Didn’t sleep much last night so happy to arrive here early, a little before 1pm.

    Melide is a pretty big town. After taking a nice shower in my own private bathroom, I checked out the old town a bit, and the oldest church around according to the hotel guy. I’m too tired to fact check - lol!

    Going to go to dinner with the guy from Holland and his wife who joined him on the camino for the next week.

    Only 3 more days of walking. Easy day tomorrow to Arzua, then 2 long days to the finish line.

    Already walked 127 miles (203 KM) and at least 38 miles more to go. So when they say 200 km from Ponferrada, that’s to the end to the beginning of the town - yesterday from the town marker to the hotel it was another 4 miles.
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  • Day 8

    Palais de Rei

    September 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    19 miles of walking today - Portomarin to Palais de Rei

    And - the horror, the Hostel de Outeiro gave my private room and bath away!

    The town was completely booked out and the only thing available was a bed in a mixed dorm of 4 people with 1 bathroom shared among other rooms as well. We’ll, I guess I did finally have a complete Camino experience, and an experience totally overrated in my opinion 😀. Not planning to repeat that, though I survived and was even able to sleep for about an hour. There were 2 guys and another women (from Taiwan) and myself, having arrived late I got to have the top bunk - at least I didn’t fall down.

    The town was not nice, but we did have a great dinner of octopus (fist time for the Elk Grove people) and some meat with French fries with the usual bottle of wine. Everything comes with fries here and if you order a glass of wine they bring you a bottle, at about 4 euros.
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  • Day 7

    Portomarin

    September 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    17.5 miles - Sarria to Portomarin
    Goodness gracious - the people - where did they all come from? People everywhere! After walking in mostly solitude, I was surrounded by people. Many are walking in groups, many are talking non stop, or are playing music, or talking on the phone. There are so many you stop saying Buen Comino 🫢
    Finally around 11ish, many people had stopped for coffee and I finally had some peace and quiet. Very nice countryside most of the way, with a very steep, but short hike down into Portomarin.

    A couple of guys went down that narrow rocky path and had to be helped walking their bike down 😀

    Nice town. Had dinner again with Kelly and Juan. A pizza place was open around 6 and we were hungry and tired, so went for a salad and pizza. When in Spain….. 🥱😱

    There was some kind of festival and the music was blasting almost nonstop until 10pm then started up again at 11pm - but I was blissfully sleeping by then.
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  • Day 6

    Sarria

    September 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Arrived in Sarria early afternoon, so stopped for a sandwich before checking in. The hotel is towards the end of the city with easy access back onto the Camino.
    Again wished I had a longer walk today, but was rewarded with 5 baby kittens and their sweet mama at the hostel.

    Staying at the Sleeping Sarria Hostel, nice comfortable bedroom with huge private bath across the room. Nice people.

    Just had a nice dinner with Kelly and Juan from Elk Grove. They started at O Cebrero, 2 days ago, and have the same itinerary as I, so will probably see them sooner or later, but have plans for dinner with them in Santiago.
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  • Day 5

    Samos

    September 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 59 °F

    Quiet walk up to Samos, didn’t run into a single peregrino along the way. Met up with a guy from last night from holland, and another guy from Norway I think and we had dinner together.

    Again wished I had a chance to walk farther than my suitcase 😀
    But took a little walk around town and the pretty river, and took a tour of the very old monastery,
    very impressive.

    I did want to take time to explore and not just walk, but still, maybe next time???

    https://www.abadiadesamos.com/
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  • Day 4

    Fonfria

    September 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    Didn’t sleep much last night, though it was more quiet than the night before. I left the Casa Carolo a little before 8, and it was very overcast. The hotel was ok, very basic, except the food, that was below average, so I left the hotel without breakfast, hoping to get coffee a few miles down the path.
    8:30 getting to a coffee place, but they don’t open until 9, so I keep going. It started raining so I put on my rain gear and just enjoyed the day, eventually getting a coffee and a week old croissant 🥹 - well maybe not quite a week - but the coffee was good, a grande coffee con leche

    I enjoyed the walk down from O Cebrero, and while there are now more pilgrims, I saw a lot more cows than pilgrims.

    So I was just walking, enjoying the light drizzle and the scenery, but eventually realized that I should have seen my hotel by then. Well, yes, the hotel was 3 miles back and I had just walked the last 3 miles all downhill. I had a few choice names for myself on the way back. And tomorrow I’m watching my gps and looking out for the hotel.
    But I’m going to get a ride tomorrow morning down to my last walking point - not walking that stretch a 3rd time 😖

    O Cebrero - it was supposed to be so strenuous but it actually wasn’t. Up wasn’t bad at all and down was supper easy (very up and down) except the last 3 miles where it was all downhill.

    Just walking with a backpack is definitely the way to go, I would have liked to move ahead a bit more.

    The day ended well with a delicious group pilgrim dinner of Galicia soup, rice and meat,
    torte and red wine all for $12. Met some nice people.
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  • Day 3

    O Cebreiro

    September 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    7 mile easy walking to the top of O Cebrero. Definitely seeing a bunch more pilgrims. Ended up walking for a while with a 76 year French guy who’s walking at a pretty good pace.

    Finally some real hiking trails, almost like Mount Tam 😀

    From Camino blogs this is supposed to be very strenuous but it’s not bad at all. Still nice to take it easy for a few days though. Planing to leave earlier tomorrow morning so I can take time going down the mountain. Up is easy, down probably not so much.

    I could probably use my walking sticks that I bought in Ponferrada and left behind the next morning 🤔😀 oh well!!!

    The Casa Carolo is comfortable, but nothing too exciting, just a comfortable small room.

    Special!
    I attended the evening mass at the Santuario the Cebreiro, and at the end the priest had all the pilgrims come to the front in a circle and he called people up to read the pilgrims blessing in all languages represented. He then gave everyone a small stone with the yellow camino arrow.
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