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  • Miami

    May 11 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Hot tub jets on our private patio kick in and drown out the party sounds and low bass beats of South Beach. We are exploring, reconnecting with the happenings of the world since our five months of travel. Beautiful beach and steep waves provide an idyllic backdrop to ease into life back in America.Read more

  • Day 130

    Back to where it all began

    May 11 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    For nearly five months we called MS Zuiderdam and her 954 foot length our home. Our journey took us over 45,000 miles to five continents and 28 countries, circumnavigating around this gorgeous planet. We flew 2,114 miles on six flights. Travel by rail, bus, car, 4x4, small boats, Tuk Tuk, and our own feet accounted for another 1,471 miles. All of this, equivalent to 20% of the way to the moon, and yet we only saw briefly one sixth of the world.

    We crossed Challenger Deep, the deepest part of the oceans on Earth. Located in the Mariana Trench, near Guam, it has a depth of nearly seven miles or 35,856 feet. On the other side of the world, we stopped at Null Island where the equator and Prime Meridian intersect, at coordinates 0,0. In total, we crossed the equator four times, but only participated in two Neptune ceremonies. Hopefully he’s ok with that.

    Our voyage continually manipulated and seemingly resulted in time travel. We changed time zones 35 times, 11 of which were just making it to, then in and out of the Amazon. On February 13, we crossed the International Date Line heading West, but that would mean we would skip Valentine’s Day and jump ahead to February 15. Since that would be a most unpopular outcome, Holland America Line and the Captain “decided” to skip the 12th instead. When passengers reached out to loved ones back home wishing them a Happy V-Day, or Birthday in some cases, puzzled recipients clarified that it was still the day prior. Making calls at 8 am on Monday would be the same as 3 pm on Sunday for folks on the West Coast. Oh, and that day we lost, we will never get it back like most who fly a reciprocal Easterly direction would. Our heads hurting, we puzzled over what does the concept of time actually mean? We never really knew what day it was unless we rode an elevator and looked at the rug. In most cases it didn’t matter. But wait, which day are taxes due?

    Nautical minded mariners may appreciate knowing the significant bodies of water encountered. We transited the North Atlantic Ocean, Caribbean Sea, South Atlantic Ocean, the Amazon River, including Rio Negro and Tapajós tributaries, the Panama Canal, North Pacific Ocean, Philippines Sea, Kanmon Strait, Sea of Japan, East China Sea, Yangtze River, Yellow Sea, South China Sea, Taiwan Strait, Pearl River Estuary, Thi Vai River, East Vietnam Sea, Singapore Strait, Malacca Strait, Andaman Sea, Bay of Bengal, Laccadive Sea, Arabian Sea, Mozambique Channel, Indian Ocean, South Atlantic Ocean, and the Gulf of Guinea.

    But none of these details truly represent what happened, or how we felt, or who we met. The people connections, some ephemeral and others we hope long lasting, are rooted all around the globe. We have more friends to look up when we are next in their corner. What we take away is an impression that we were thinking too small. We let ignorance and apathy stifle our curiosity and dreams of exploration. We are forever changed, learning lesson upon lesson, about ourselves, of life, other places. Of course we can confirm the earth truly is round. But let us never forget the most important lesson of all—don’t postpone joy.
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  • Day 127

    San Juan, Puerto Rico

    May 8, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Old San Juan showed us her best today. Familiar companions Bill, Chris, and Jill joined us for our exploration of this final port on our worldwide journey. Sipping smooth, creamy Besito e Coco helped combat the effects of humid, warm air. Wandering, memorized by the dance of light and vibrant colors, we ventured our way up to Calle de San Sebastián. La Factoría’s hip vibe and craft drinks beckoned us in off the cobblestone and provided cover for ample people watching. Princessa’s traditional food based on recipes from the 1800’s delighted our palettes and satiated our appetites. Charm and Spanish language fill our evening. All too soon it’s time to depart. To San Juan, we will gladly return.Read more

  • Day 122

    Mindelo, Republic of Cabo Verde

    May 3 in Cape Verde ⋅ 🌬 73 °F

    Our caravan of 4x4’s stops at the pass and we get out to survey this moonscape. Battered by furious wind, parched earth swirls around. No rain in seven years. Yet somehow birds find enough water and food to survive. Creeping down the primitive road we come upon a dried riverbed covered in poisonous gourds and follow it to the sea. No swimming here, though. Beautiful beach scape takes its cue from the hostility of the surrounds.
    Strong currents and Blue Sharks make this point undesirable for anything but admiration from the shore.

    We return to civilization and pull onto a rocky road. Cabo Verde shares in the history of the slave trade. This road was painstakingly hammered into existence by labor paid only a dollar per month. Its bumpy texture serve as a reminder of the scars left from a previous era. Volcanos fill the horizon, casting shadows and silhouettes against the bowl of sky. We refresh in a fishing village, sipping local grog and beer. Our return encounters dunes descended from sands of the Sahara and sculpted by nature’s hand. Alas, passing mineral rich beaches beckoning for us to remain, it’s time to board our ship, which is bound for the new world.
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  • Day 120

    Banjul, Republic of the Gambia

    May 1 in Gambia ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    We get a glimpse of Banjul from the promenade. Heat wave meets Saharan dust storm. Our first port we chose not to go out. Next time we’re here we will look forward to heading up the river and seeing the incredible interior of the country.Read more

  • Day 116

    Slave Castles, Ghana

    April 27 in Ghana ⋅ ☁️ 90 °F

    Dripping, soaking with sweat, we move through heavy, dank, musty air saturated with organic penetrating odors. Descending into the dungeons we step over hand laid brick channels, made from ballast aboard Portuguese ships, to govern the general direction of once-flowing liquids. Standing in three and a half centuries of compacted human waste, never once cleaned, we try not to dwell on it. Our cramped chamber is plunged into darkness as the lone bulb goes out. We may be standing in similar positions and heat but the dimness of our conditions don’t come close to replicating the experience for the 200 terrified souls who will know this as their home for three months. The only time they will leave the room will be if they get sick and die, or if they make it on to a ship bound for another kind of hell.

    It’s not easy to visit these places. But it is important to ground ourselves in the truth. We can’t know our culture’s origin story, and the extent of its transgressions, if we don’t open ourselves to the whole of it. Men of Europe—Portugal, England, Holland, Germany, and others—built castles in far off lands. They lived above in comfortable accommodations, and built their churches at the center—never mind what happened down below, in the dungeons. For 542 years at places like St. George’s Castle, the foundation was carved for the cause of so much poverty, suffering, and injustice in our world. And it is still happening.
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  • Day 116

    Cape Coast & Takoradi, Ghana

    April 27 in Ghana ⋅ ⛅ 90 °F

    The nuclear family is a foreign concept in Ghana. Instead, families typically live 20-25 to a home. Walking into one, you might not be able to tell who are the parents of the children running around—it’s the family who will raise them. And together in villages, families can run upwards of 500-600 members. Each community will specialize into some trade or craft. The one we visited focused on food production, primarily fishing and processing of the fish. But with no refrigeration, and temperatures in the mid nineties, the result is wholly unfamiliar to us.

    Much of our experience in Ghana challenged us. We found it quite difficult to not judge, to not blame, to accept what was the normal day-to-day. But with no infrastructure, no light from behind the eyes of children, no resources benefiting the people, and no hope of building a better future, we did judge. We did feel. This was the legacy of colonialism.
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  • Day 115

    Null Island (0°0'0"N, 0°0'0"E)

    April 26 ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    We stop for thirty minutes to, once again, pay our respects to Neptune, and of course explore Null Island. While the ship hovers in place, we overhear explanations offered by fellow passengers.

    “It’s the vanishing point.”
    “The place where everything is zero.”
    “The place that nothing exists.”
    “You can see the actual line of the equator.”
    “What’s the point of going forward, there’s nothing to see.”

    Here we find ourselves simply at the intersection of two arbitrary lines made up by humans, the prime meridian and the equator.
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  • Day 111

    Walvis Bay, Namibia

    April 22 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    As the fish was tossed high into the air, Bubbles tracks its angle of trajectory and leaps off the stern. He emerges moments later, leaping out of the water in a perfectly smooth ballistic dance until he reaches his beloved snack. Precious few moments are gained to allow the last of us to board the catamaran, unscathed by an enthusiastic Cape Seal.

    We explore the lagoon all morning in the company of dolphins, seals, pelicans, and millions of jellyfish. Fog lifts and we are treated to a gorgeous day spotting wildlife and learning about the German takeover of Walvis Bay during the First World War. While aboard Wian serves Champagne as we are kept company by a few hitchhiking pelicans who make themselves at home inside.

    Our journey continues as we climb into a Land Cruiser for an afternoon dune run toward Sandwich Harbor. Alas, the tide comes in too swiftly, we don’t quite make it. We get out and enjoy the dramatic scene of towering sand spilling into the sea. We venture on to a picnic lunch paired with water dug straight out of the sand. We spot Oryx grazing on butter-nuts growing out of the subterranean river. While we make our way back, Armand pulls over for a few photos with the flamingos and each other.
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  • Day 110

    Luderitz, Namibia

    April 21 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Massive dunes rise up from the shore, obscuring mountains in the distance. Intense sun warms the surface of everything it touches, though there is a crispness to the air. The landscape is stark, high contrast, saturated. It feels alien and exotic, beautiful, but eerie. A fragment of a village sits perched on the edge of a rocky bay. Streets are empty, does anyone live here?

    We learn of great plans for Luderitz, including establishing a second town 20 kilometers inland. Diamonds and fish exports may have kept this place from shriveling up completely. But it will be green hydrogen, a new port dedicated to imports, and sadly, oil platforms which will catapult it fully back onto the radar.

    Our catamaran ventures around the last rocky point as we see a wall of fog hanging back just behind our destination, Halifax Island. We pass a pod of white-sided dolphins, cormorants, and cape seals basking on barren rocks being beaten by incoming surf. Our target is the African Penguin colony, but before we arrive the fog moves in silently, hugging us tightly with its frigid embrace. We glimpse a peak at movement near the shore, a flamingo and a penguin hurriedly retreating towards its den. First a pause, then overly enthusiastic flapping, and then a tumble to his belly. Back up again, waddling more carefully, he continues on home.
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