Female solo traveler. In love with Latin America, wilderness, camping, indigenous cultures. Read more Lebane, Serbia
  • Day 50

    Santa Marta and a rich couple

    February 4, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    When my friend Milan arrived from Serbia, we met in Cartagena and after rerunning the city tours over the next two days, we headed to Santa Marta.

    We liked the town more, it was touristy but it was calmer than Cartagena, and somewhat more picturesque, like only smaller towns can be.

    Two important things happened: in two days of Milan’s presence, I became señora from señorita and all the prices doubled or more. We enjoyed market in Santa Marta, ate some of the best arepa con queso. After a day, we headed to Minca.
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  • Day 47

    Tierra Bomba, contrast to Cartagena

    February 1, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    As my hormones got more saturated in my system, my ability to communicate, explain, and organize others went straight to zero. I decided to go to the nearby Tierra Bomba Island with a really nice group of people from my hostel, and mostly let them organize everything, without much participation.

    Unfortunately, we were kinda scammed, paying upfront for the round trip boat ride from Cartagena to the island and back. Bottom line, the experience was still
    nice and I particularly enjoyed part when we were waiting for the boat in the local port, playing with kids and trying street food for 30 cents. On the upside we were scammed for about 3$ per person, so that made it easier to make our peace with it.

    The island Tierra Bomba was very empty and we headed to a famous beach on the other side of the island, that looked quite close. The roads are mostly dirt roads and we saw no cars - only motos. It was easy to get lost, so we did it couple of times, but we always found our way. The walk was nice and the sea even nicer, but every squared meter of the beach belonged to a bar or a restaurant so we had to choose one.

    On the way back we headed to another port village as we thought that’s where the boat will pick us up. The place was super local, and there was a lot of poverty - like a negative of the modern skyscrapers dominating the other side of the sea…just a quick 15-minute boat ride away. Everyone was curious about us, they were asking, suggesting, calling someone to ask something. I was out of the chaos and let the kids play with my hair, play with my hands, play with my skin, closing my eyes and focusing on their words and moves. I let their happiness dissolve my monthly inner disagreement with myself and really enjoyed the moment of not knowing when and how we will be back but also not feeling responsibility. That day, after a long time, I flew.
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  • Day 45

    Cartagena and a taste of Colombia

    January 30, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    At first I really wanted to make the trip from Panama to Colombia by boat ( visiting San Blas Islands for 3-5 days) but after calling every known agency I realized that, like so many things, it has changed its status in the last couple of years from “alternative travel” to “I have money and I am European backpacker who wants to look like I am traveling alternatively on my Instagram”.

    Why hatred? Well, most of the amazing remote places that I like to visit are now crawling with people because it is mentioned somewhere as a must thing to do. And everybody stays everywhere for a day, two or three and is seen as a quick ATM withdrawal by the local people. In all that mess, it’s getting harder and harder to see the uniqueness of the place. I am not talking about amazing landscape sights that are usually used to lure the tourists in. I am talking about meeting local family that will tell you which traditional meal you have to try or an old abuela that will tell you the whole story about when the road in front of you was constructed.

    Cartagena was one of those overcrowded places but still an intense contrast to Panama. People smiling and dancing all day long with amazingly beautiful face features and athletic bodies. Colombia, where have you been all my life?

    I joined Getsemani walking tour, which is an artsy neighborhood with street art, caffès, bars and clubs. The place underwent a substantial change in the last years and went from drug-selling ghetto to a must-visit and one of the safest places to be in Cartagena.

    The rest of the city I discovered by myself or with other travelers. Even though everything was adjusted to tourism, you could still sense that there was a regular local city flow just beneath the curtain of overpriced tours. An example: people sitting on a chair with typing machines in front of them, offering to type your contracts and agreements in order to make them valid in the court. Another example: I went to a supermarket in the local neighborhood and 6 bananas, 1/2kg lemons, a deodorant, almond milk, sanitary pads and 300g of brownies costed 4$
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  • Day 42

    Metropolitan Park and a bit on Guna Yala

    January 27, 2023 in Panama ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    In the next days we decided to go to Metropolitan Park which represents a natural oasis with nice views of the city, while being located conveniently in the city. Ok, I definitely saw more beautiful and wild nature on this trip, but it was surprising to see all the wildlife thriving while being surrounded by skyscrapers and crowded roads within the short distance.

    We saw colorful birds, monkeys, and even a deer! As we kept exploring and spending more time at some places, observing and receiving all the sounds and movement, we started seeing fireflies everywhere! It looked like the nature was glitching before our eyes - it felt too magical to be true.

    Speaking of magical, in the following days we also visited the free Mola Museum in Casco Viejo. Mola is a specific way the materials are handwoven into nature-inspired geometrical shapes by the Guna Yala indigenous people that live in the west of Panama, in and around San Blas Islands. This group managed to retain a high level of autonomy to the state and have really interesting history and cosmology.

    I highly recommend visiting the museum, as it is all informative, interactive and just, beautiful. To add a mystic dimension to the whole story, mola patterns are supposed to protect whoever wears them from evil spirits and bad influences.
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  • Day 40

    Panama City, China and Yugoslavia

    January 25, 2023 in Panama ⋅ 🌧 29 °C

    I was warned various times by different people that Panama City is quite boring and there is nothing to do. Not in this case. I was hosted by a nice family that I met in Boquete.

    My personal experience was different and I really enjoyed spending time with my hosts and meeting this city and country through their perspective.

    The biggest surprise? Chinese influence on Panamanian culture and life. There is between 5-10% of Chinese people in Panama that migrated there in the 1980s. They have their own districts in the city, there are Chinese-focused parties in the night, most of them are market owners etc. even the food is quite present and many specifically Chinese snacks and pastries became a part of typical Panamanian life. I was there the weekend after Chinese New Year and there was a huge celebration in one of the parks. With all the shows, dragons, foods and decoration I could feel I was in China for a brief moment, which was definitely not an experience I was expecting to get in Panama, in the middle of the Americas.

    Second biggest surprise?

    “Josip Broz Tito”

    The words spoken by my host in the perfect accent and pronunciation struck me in surprise so hard that I literally awed for five minutes. She remembers that Tito visited Panama when she was a kid and huge parade that was made in his honor. Contrary to the most countries outside the Europe that I visited, in Panama most people have a good understanding of what happened in the Balkans, and at last, where Serbia is. Is it good education, somewhat common history or just curiosity and chance…I don’t know. But it did leave me wondering.

    The brand new apartment where I was hosted was overlooking the city and what once was a very poor neighborhood. Across the street from the building was the place where the mother of my host was born, when her ancestors were diligent workers who still didn’t have much.

    With Lizzie, the daughter of the family we explored the city in the coming days. First day we walked Calzada de Amador - a long walk alongside Panama City’s three artificial islands that were made from the earth/rocks taken out when making the Panama Canal.

    Casco Viejo - an old colonial part of the city now full of bars, restaurants and clubs.

    On my last day there, we realized there will be a carnaval like-celebration of authentic folklore dresses from Panama. It’s for a reason they call it festival of 1000 colleras. I was positively surprised how many local people have come and how beautiful it all was. Panamanian people are so proud of their own culture and tradition.

    Maybe not the most beautiful city ever, but I really enjoyed the cultural and historical diversity that Panama City offered.
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  • Day 38

    La India Dormida and Frog Sanctuary

    January 23, 2023 in Panama ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    I stayed in Anton Valley 4 days but all the hikes did in 2 same days. Which may be a reason for me often feeling exhausted 😅

    The Polish girl Aga and I decided to start the trek to India Dormida peak at 5am in order to make it there in time for sunrise. It was really beautiful hike even tho it was night, and we got to see a scorpion 😍

    The sunrise was beautiful and a cute dog followed us from the foot of the hill. We decided to go circular trail and other way down even though that trail was not showing on my map (but was visible there).

    Once down we realized that it was only 9am and headed to the waterfalls. There was no one there and we enjoyed jumping across the rocks and following the flow even though the waterfalls themselves were not amongst the most amazing once we’ve seen.

    25km later from the start of the day, we made it back. 🙂 I took a nap and after that it was still too early (love waking up early!) so I decided to join two other travelers from my hostel and visit a frog sanctuary and squared trees valley.

    In short:

    Frog sanctuary - very nice, local project from a passionate nature lover.

    Squared trees valley - nice nature walk, but close to the road, and actually nothing special. To the extent that I thought that the trees were artificially squared (squeezed for years when young to have this shape) and not natural as advertised.
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  • Day 37

    Cerro Cara de Iguana

    January 22, 2023 in Panama ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    There are several very nice and quite easy hikes from el Valle de Antón and I decided that my first one should be Cara de Iguana.

    It was easy to follow the trail and the views were just getting better with each step up. On the way I met another traveler from my hostel and we kept hiking together. We decided to do a circular trail and tried to reach the waterfall on the other side, but unfortunately the land was sold since the last time my hiking maps were updated and it was impossible to trespass so many bribed wires and warnings.
    Don’t ask how I know.

    It rained a lot on the way back and finally all the outdoor equipment I had became useless and not waterproof anymore - after one and a half month of almost daily rain.
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  • Day 36

    Valle de Anton

    January 21, 2023 in Panama

    I decided to make this a special post just to give one simple advice: GO WITH A SHUTTLE.

    Reaching El Valle from Boquete turned to be 12-hour trip for me, changing three buses and in the end having to go in a taxi from the main road to El Valle (30ish kilometers).

    Luckily I met a cool Polish girl on a bus and we struggled together which is always easier than on your own.
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  • Day 35

    La Piedra de Lino hike

    January 20, 2023 in Panama ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    La Piedra de Lino is known to have some of the best views over Boquete and the valley, but unfortunately I haven’t made it to the top. I always like to finish hikes, but this time I was in my snickers (hiking shoes still a bit wet from El Pianista) and started the hike quite late.

    Tip if you decide to go: go early in the morning. Clouds ALWAYS gather around this hill in the afternoon and most of the time it rains. Rain makes it super slippery with the combination of dirt and mud on round and steep rocks and clouds ruin the views. So if you find yourself in my situation, it’s best to go down.

    On the way down I met amazing family that invited me for a coffee and to stay with them in Panama City later in my trip.
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  • Day 34

    Sendero de Pianista

    January 19, 2023 in Panama ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    When you type “hiking in Panama” in Google the chances are that the results will return the numerous news reports about two Dutch girls that disappeared in April 2014 and couple of months later were found dead (well, parts of them at least).

    This happened on the Pianista trail in Boquete. I hiked the trail with the Canadian traveler that I met a day before, and it quickly became one of my top hikes in Panama. Aside from the spooky background, this trail is everything I like: free, narrow, passing through deep forest and full of wildlife. We started around 9, were among the first to hike there that day (only saw one hiker coming back) and saw many animals that day. Highlights: two snakes, insect looking like wood, various birds.

    The lower part of the trail is hot and humid, while as you climb the forest becomes denser and you enter the layer always moving clouds - the popular “cloud forest”. The trail becomes a narrow canyon-like path full of mud, which sides carry the greenery above your’r head and with just enough space for the shoulders to pass. Even though it’s only 4 kilometer long, it really is special.

    I can see how easy it was for the girls to get lost on the hike - the fog (cloud) at the top is dense and if you go off trail you could be standing 5m from the trail and not be able to see it, wondering in which direction to go. The limited visibility makes it hard to oriente so I strongly advise staying on trek. However the passing clouds, wind and dense forests are definitely something special. Highly recommended trail, that I would gladly do again.
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