Mexico and Costa Rica

October - November 2023
Food, sun, and Cenotes Read more
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  • Day 14

    Cozumel Island

    October 18, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Wed 18th Oct: A 6 am start to make sure we got down to the ferry terminal in time for the 8 am ferry to Cozumel Island. With fifth Ave alot less busier at this time of morning, we made the 3.5 km walk with time to spare, so took a few photos at the beautiful mermaid arch and "Playa del Carmen" sign before boarding for the 40 minute trip across to San Miguel, the only town on the island. Our snorkeling tour wasn't until 9.30, so we had a look around a few of the nearby shops until our pick up time. After getting picked up we had about a 10 minute drive to the marina where we joined an American family of grandparents, parents, and 3 children from the cruise ship, and another older American couple. Took about 40 minutes to get out to first spot at Palancar reef. The water is probably the clearest we have ever snorkelled in and had a good array of fish, which was helped by our guide feeding them. There were quite a few groups out, and we had to stay close to ours at all times, so a bit annoying couldn't really go and explore to much from the immediate vicinity, but apart from that it was really good. My ears were hurting when I dived under, but otherwise I felt good, although did forget the earplugs, because at the last minute leaving this morning I transfered my gear into Doug's day pack and somehow the earplugs got missed - I think they would have struggled to stay in anyway. We then boarded the boat and drove about 5 minutes to Columbia Reef. Here was the grass the turtles feed on and we were in luck one was there, plus other fishes. Back on board and another short time we were at the sandy bottom of Starfish Beach. Our final stop for the day was in a shallow area El Cielo, for beers and sodas and also where we spotted quite a few rays swimming around. It was quite windy here and it was much warmer in the water than out. Back on board for the final time, we had corn chips and freshly made guacamole and salsa to enjoy, and then a very wet and cold trip back to the marina. We then had an opportunity to purchase the photos that our guide had been taking, and when we saw the clarity of the underwater photos, we couldn't resist. We were then dropped back into the centre of town. We decided to suss out price to hire a vehicle for the rest of the day to explore more of the island, after a few different prices we settled on a scooter for $300 mxn, with return time of 7 pm. It was about 3 pm when we finally got on out way and with 75 kms to get around not a lot of time to muck around. Heading south the shops soon merged into hotels and beach clubs. The rental company said if we showed the Bahia Uvus Club our map which he had written on, we could get free entry and the following things free - 5 minute massage, snorkeling gear and shot of tequila. The first guy we showed the map too looked confused but another staff member nearby came and said okay and said take a seat, then asked if we wanted anything. Doug ordered a coke, I was a bit worried about our dwindling pesos so I didn't get anything thank goodness because a can of coke costed NZ$6. The free items weren't offered, so I thought I would have a quick look at what the snorkeling from the shore offered. Had a few different fishes, but I keep comparing to Rarotonga and it was no where near that standard. Doug spent longer in the water exploring. Finally we were back zipping down the road again. Basically the west and south coastline was just lined with resorts and beachclubs and then you hit the wild eastside and had only a few restaurants. I was hoping to go to the lighthouse and ruins at the south east point but it was $300 mxn entry each and we didn't have that much. Did see a strange looking animal cross the road in front of us. When I Google it when I got back I'm pretty sure it was a Coati. Stopped on the east coast for a break and some photos, not much else to see really and didn't fancy another swim. Got back to San Miguel about 6.30pm. After dropping off the bike we took some photos at the waterfront, and decided we would try and make the 7 pm ferry back to Playa del Carmen. With only minutes to spare we got to the ticket office only to find their credit card machine wasn't working and we didn't have enough cash. Bugger another hour to wait til the next ferry. We went and exchanged US$100 and then tried to find a non-tourist restaurant. Eventually the smells coming out of one, and time running out we made our choice. I was keen for fajitas since we haven't had them yet. They didn't do them but the waiter. said the Alambres were similar, so I got beef and Doug pork, and was extremely happy with them, absolutely delicious, probably my favorite meal in Mexico. And to end our Mexican adventure I also treated myself to a Strawberry Marguerite, although later when we were walking back to the apartment I wished I had stuck to Coke like Doug because I could have done with the energy burst. Anyway after our dinner we had to rush again to the ferry terminal and this time got on board for the 8 pm crossing. After the tiring walk back, I was more than ready for bed.Read more

  • Day 15

    Goodbye Mexico, Hello Costa Rica

    October 19, 2023 in Costa Rica ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    Thur 19 Oct: I was in two minds whether to get up for a final sunrise stroll along the beach. I was so tired last night, the thought of a sleep in was very tempting but it was our last morning in Mexico. I did set the alarm, however my dodgy stomach made the decision for me too miss the stroll. I'm starting to think maybe it wasn't the antibiotics because they should be out of the system by now. Anyway, still had to have a shower - my hair was a mass of tangles from yesterday, and packing to do. Left Playa del Carmen just after 9 am, and about 45 minutes got to the rental company to drop the car off. Check in at the airport was very efficient with a staff member coming to the self check-in kiosk and had our boarding passes and luggage labels printed out in no time. Dropping our bags off took a little longer as she wanted to check our return NZ ticket, however didn't have any issues at our bag weights of 23.0 kg and 24.1 kg, always a big sigh of relief. We then had 3.5 hours to wait until our flight. Doug was keen for a Starbucks coffee but at NZ$13 decided he could live without. We did spend NZ $30 on some Chinese for lunch which was really nice, and worked out perfectly for getting rid of all our Mexican coins, apart from my coin collection ones. Flight was good, really impressed with Volaris airline, very efficient, when we landed they instructed people to remain sitting and they would come through and open the overhead bins and tell you when you can get up, so a very orderly disembarkment. Our car rental company Easy Cars again booked through Discover Cars gain a 5 star rating from us. They message us yesterday asking when we would be arriving, and gave good instructions to we to find their representative at the airport. Back at their office the guy was very helpful, yes they tried to upgrade the insurance, but no hard push and we actually decided to take it. It was more reasonably priced, and I think the heavy rain and very congested road outside we decided it was worth the peace of mind. Also when we saw the car they had given us we were pleased we had the extra insurance. A very big fairly new Suzuki SUV. He then offered us a coffee and hot chocolate which was very nice, probably the best hot chocolate I've had. We then had to head out into the traffic, rain and now darkness for a over 3 hour drive north west to Monteverde and the Costa Rican Cloud Forest. A horrible hard twisty turny and towards the end potholey drive - a huge effort, well done by Doug. We eventually arrived at our hostel 8.50 pm, without eating but we were to tired (it was 9.50 pm Cancun time) to go looking for food, so had a muesli bar and went to bed.Read more

  • Day 16

    Monteverde

    October 20, 2023 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Fri 20 Oct: Wonderful hostel we are staying in at Monteverde. Nice room with own bathroom, and breakfast of pancakes and fruit or eggs and toast included all for US$18/night - we like these sort of prices. We were told the weather is generally fine in the morning and then rain in the afternoon in Costa Rica at the moment, so we headed out to have a look at Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve. It was raining when we started but in the forest it wasn't very heavy. Beautiful forest, but we didn't see any animals or views due to the weather. Did get some quite loud thunder halfway around. Took it quite slowly, covering about 5 kms in 2 hrs 15. We then headed into the small town centre to find some lunch. Prices were quite expensive, but finally found some chicken and chips and I tried a Enyacuado de Pollo (like a Costa Rican coquette made with yuca) for a reasonable price. After that we went for a walk to see a ficus tree that has formed a bridge. Wow what an amazing root system they have. On the way, we stopped in at a local artist shop, and his wife has put alot of his paintings onto texiles - cushion covers, chairs, umbrellas, exercise leggings and crop tops, and t-shirts. I really liked the t-shirts and on the way back decided to get one, something a bit unique, and also support his art as he was very passionate about it. It was then back into town and looking around the souvenir shops. Both found shirts we really liked but not in our sizes - drats. Got some crackers cheese, salami, tomato and pate to take back for a little snacky dinner.Read more

  • Day 17

    Curi Cancha

    October 21, 2023 in Costa Rica ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Sat 21 Oct: Today we decided to go to the Curi Cancha Reserve to see if we could spot some of Costa Rica 650+ bird species. Apparently Curi Cancha is home to at least 200 of them. However when we got there found out you needed photo I.D. to enter and I didn't have any on me, so wasted about half an hour having to go back to our accomodation to get it. Finally at 10.30 we entered. First saw hummingbirds. These are just so tiny and so fast, near on impossible to photograph. Next saw turkey vultures. Was really enjoying the relaxed walk around trying to spot and photograph birds and butterflies such as the enormous blue morpho butterfly, until it started raining about midday and unfortunately didn't stop. Very few birds were spotted after that, although we did continue along our trails hoping. About 1.30 we gave up and went for a little drive further down the road which got extremely steep so turned around and went back into town for some lunch and more looking around the shops before heading back to our room for 1.5 hrs for a relax, before heading out at 5.30 pm for our night tour. Our night tour was such good value. 80% of Costa Rica's animals are nocturnal, so you really need to go out at night. The tour lasted two hours, and there was a total of 7 of us on it. We saw a rhinoceros or long-horned katydid, Mexican Porcupine, a sloth awake busy grooming himself - he certainly needs more of that, what a scruffy looking animal (they sleep for about 20 hours a day so lucky to see him awake), an orange kneed tarantula, a sleeping hummingbird in its nest - they need their rest with going to over 2000 plants a day to get nectar, a Toucan, and two vipers, so a very successful and enjoyable night. Our cameras struggled to focus in the poor light but get some good shots through the guides monocle.Read more

  • Day 18

    Costa Rica Pacific Coast

    October 22, 2023 in Costa Rica

    Sun 22 Oct: Today we are moving on from the Cloud Forest to Manuel Antonio on the Pacific Coastline. First we were considering going back to Curi Cancha to see if we could spot more birds, but in the end decided on going to the Butterfly Garden. This was again guided by a volunteer guy from Canada who was there for 10 weeks. Already since he arrived only 4 weeks ago his knowledge and presentation was very good. Really enjoyed walking through the enclosures photographing and learning about some of the different butterflies. And as a bonus when walking between 2 of the enclosures we spotted a real cool looking bird. There were also scorpions, tarantulas, stick insects, cockroaches and the enormous Hercules beetles - well dead ones but still amazing to see. So a pretty cool few hours spent there before we started heading south. We stopped at a roadside restaurant for lunch, and after that a brief stop when we first hit the sea at Caldera. I thought it was the Pacific Ocean but looking at the map it was the Gulf of Nicoya. Next stop was at the "crocodile bridge" near Tarcoles, where we saw five crocodiles. And of course with all these tourists stopping there was an array of souvenir shops and restaurants, which we had a quick look in. Then we carried onto our hostel at Manuel Antonio, arriving at 5 pm. When we went to pay for our 3 nights, we found our wallet empty of cash. After travelling for 14.5 months and not having any unsavory issues, with only 10 days to go, some time after lunch someone must have got my wallet pocketed the money and put it back, taking a mixture of US and local currency, probably less than US$200 but still annoying and we can't understand when, only way was Doug must have left the car unlocked at one of our two stops. At least they left the wallet and the Wise Card, and didn't take tablet or anything else. And then after discovering that, when walking up to our room I put my hand on the handrail and felt an intense sting - my introduction to a bullet ant, apparently an insect with one of the most painful stings around, which I can attested too. After getting our bags up to our room, we then were considering what to do for dinner when it started pouring with rain, neither of us were keen to go out so a bag of corn chips had to suffice for our dinner.Read more

  • Day 19

    Manuel Antonio National Park

    October 23, 2023, North Pacific Ocean

    Mon 23 Oct: Discovered last night when we arrived that the Manuel Antonio NP is closed on Tuesdays, so we made a quick decision to book a guide for a tour for today. Pick up was 7.30 am. So after a noisy night of sleep. The hostel is right on the main road which was very busy, and also the room has no glass in the window so only curtains to block the sound, not ideal. Anyway we had our breakfast, Doug having the tradition Costa Rican breakfast of rice and beans with scrambled eggs, and I had granola and yogurt, we were soon heading the 5 kms south to the national park entrance where we met our guide Sergio. Costa Rica have made rules to try and be more environmentally friendly, which is great and in theory I totally agreed with but they need a bit of commonsense enforcing them. For example, there is no single-use plastic bottles allowed in the National Parks. Great, but both Doug and I have been refilling plastic waterbottles brought over 6 months ago, but we had to ditch those, therefore making more waste! Not surprising, there was a store next to the entry selling reusable water bottles, so we had to spend NZ$12 to buy one of those to empty our water into for today. Also not allowed any food into the park. Luckily we weren't organized and only had a muesli bar anyway, which we quickly ate. There was a Cafe inside that you could buy food at. We did see a monkey with a bag of chips which he was very protective about and definitely didn't want to share with his mates, so it is good to try and minimize the opportunities for the animals to gain human food. Anyway back to the tour, certainly worth paying for a guide, we would never have seen the animals we did without him. Saw 4 different sloths, both the 2 toed and 3 toed, a red legged grasshopper, two of the three basilisk lizards species - one of which can run on water and the other can change colour. Bat's, white faced monkeys, humming birds, white tailed deer, a carnivorous flower, a caiman, a tiny baby snake, red land crabs and iguanas, so a pretty good tally for a 2 hour, 2 km walk. Once we got to the beach, Sergio left us, and we then spent the next few hours swimming and exploring some of the other tracks, although didn't see anymore animals apart from the white face monkeys including the potato chip eater. We got out of the park about 2.45 pm feeling quite hungry so we caught the bus back to the small town of Quepos 1 km past our hostel. Again finding no really cheap options, eg hamburgers about NZ$18 each, and most dishes starting around $25 to 30. With our hungry getting to us, we finally decided on a large pizza and 1.5 litre of Pepsi for NZ$32 and sat overlooking the water to have that, which was very good. We then found some pastries to take back for supper, and then carefully walked the km back up the hill to our hostel - it is quite a narrow,windy, hilly road with no footpath or side verge. Back at the hostel we enjoyed a lovely swim in the pool before showers and a relaxing night.Read more

  • Day 20

    Biesanz Beach

    October 24, 2023 in Costa Rica ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Tue 24 Oct: What to do today? We found a good waterfall further south that looked worth a visit, but instead of driving an hour there and a hour back today, it made more sense to take that route tomorrow when we head across to the east and the Caribbean coastline, so we decided to just have a bit of a chill out day, so spent the morning finally getting my backlog of Find Penguins footprints posted. My premium subscription has finished, and I decided it wasn't worth renewing for only 10 days, so now limited to only 10 photos and 1 video per footprint. Around midday we caught the bus to go a couple of kms down the road. It's a shame the road doesn't really allow walking along it. Stopped at a Falafel restaurant I had read good reviews about for lunch. Mediterranean food would be my all time favorite. We ordered the Sawrarma Platter with a side of Falafel balls, and it was so yummy, we were soon looking at what to have for dinner so we could come back. Maybe our smoothies made it so enjoyable too - mine was blackberry and strawberry with vodka and Doug had Banana and Coconut with rum. Delicious 😋. Leaving the restaurant full and happy we walked 2 kms down to Biesanz Beach. I think we have been spoiled by the beaches in Mexico, it was nice but the water isn't very clear, although slightly cooler than what we had in Mexico which was nicer. We enjoyed a good swim and explore, spotting some Bare-throated tiger heron birds, a young sleeping sloth, and finally some howler monkeys. We were surprised at how small they were considering the loud noises they make. We were then hoping to spend some time on the beach reading filling in time so we could head back to the Falafel restaurant for dinner, however the weather put paid to that plan, because in came the rain. We quickly hightail up the road before it got to heavy, to catch the bus back to the hostel. Then sat under the verandah while it poured down with thunder and lightning. Ended up driving back to the Falafel restaurant for round two, however without the alcoholic smoothies this time.Read more

  • Day 21

    From the Pacific to the Caribbean

    October 25, 2023 in Costa Rica

    Wed 25 Oct: We were up early, had breakfast and was on our way to Niuyaca Waterfall just after 7 am. From the parking lot we had a hot and sweaty 3.3 km walk to the falls, oh how we were looking forward to a swim when we got there. First we went and viewed the upper fall, enjoying the lovely spray, then took the track down to the river and the lower fall. Again a lot of spray to cool us down and just as well because there was no way you were able to swim, don't know if it was just from the heavy rain all last night but it was a large and strong flow coming down. So after photos we started heading back, but a sighting of an agouti soon made us get the cameras out again. About half way we heard this bird making a lot of noise. I eventually found it high up in the tree, and got very excited because it was a Toucan, tried to get some photos but difficult at that distance, after about 10 minutes it flew off. We then got back on the road about 11 am to start heading across the island to Cahuita. Google said it was 327 km and would take 6 hrs 38 mins. Costa Rica does not do straight roads - very up and down, twisty turny and not very wide, and also most of it in the clouds or rain so extremely slow going, especially because you normally get stuck behind very slow trucks, and if you are lucky to get passed one there is another one just ahead. Our eta was about 6 pm - our accomodation's check-in was only until 8 pm so we were felt okay about this and stopped for about 40 minutes for lunch at Cartago. Carrying on the rain was consistent and so was the slowness. Got onto the main highway down the coast, about 40 kms to go and we thought it would be smooth sailing, and due to arrive at 7.30pm. Then we stopped, and waited, and crawled along - not even sure if it was from an accident or roadworks. Finally got moving again, and 8 pm found a shop to try and ring the accommodation, but there was no answer. Eventually arrived 8.45 pm, 9 hrs 45 from leaving the waterfall, what a long hard drive. Doug went in and got the owner out of bed, and luckily we could get our room. Both exhausted it was a quick shower and into bed.Read more

  • Day 22

    Cahuita

    October 26, 2023 in Costa Rica ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    Thu 26 Oct: After yesterday we treated ourselves to a blob day. Both had good sleeps until the rooster and dogs woke us up. After dozing for a bit longer we got up and checked out the beach which was about 100 m down the road. Beautiful, again not Playa del Carmen beautiful as it is a black beach, but certainly a nice relaxing feeling about it. We then went for a walk to the main area of town, 1.4 kms away to find a supermarket to buy some cereal for breakfast. Its a very small town with mainly restaurants down the main street. Did find a small supermarket to get our breakfast stuff. Heading back we went down a road to check out the beach down there and found the entrance to the marine side of the National Park. Talking to a guy, he told us could only do snorkeling in the park with a guide, which he was. We decided to book him for tomorrow at 7 am, best time he reckons as its a lot calmer. We then walked back, had breakfast, lazed around reading, went for a swim, more lazing, then I walked back into town for more of a look while Doug did an hour long ocean swim (he doesn't believe in building up to things). It started raining about 4 pm, while we sat under the veranda of our room. Eventually we started thinking what to do for dinner - eat out or cook something as we had a little kitchen. We decide we would cook so walked down to the supermarket and got pasta, sausages, sauce and can of vegetables, and since we were saving money by cooking ourselves got a can each of Raspberry Smirnoff Ice, and some Costa Rican pastry things for dessert - still worked out about half what it would have costed just for a main meal each at a Restaurant, and Doug volunteered for cooking duty so even better 🙂.Read more

  • Day 23

    Cahuita National Park

    October 27, 2023 in Costa Rica ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    Fri 27 Oct: Since we had to get up early for our snorkeling this morning I thought I would get up for sunrise, therefore I was out of bed at 5.20 am, but I was not early enough, and it was very cloudy also which didn't help. So just went for a stroll down the beach which was still very enjoyable. It was then back to tip Doug out of bed, breakfast and walk down to the National Park entrance for our 10 minute boat trip out to the reef just of Punta Cahuita. Beautiful reef with a real assortment of fish. It was just the two of us and it was wonderful, not as crystal clear as Mexico but still very good. All to soon we had to board the boat to move a few minutes to another spot. A bit shallower but not quite as good a reef. Had big schools of fish. Once finish here we were meant to be dropped of at the beach at Punta Cahuita, but Doug asked if we could go back to the first snorkeling spot so he could do a bit of video, so we got another 20 minutes there, so in total just under 2 hours - well worth it. Once on the beach, there is a trail heading around the Peninsula, right 2.4 kms takes as back to Cahuita town, left 5.7 kms takes you to the southern entry. We went left not really intending to go all the way just to Puerto Vargas but when we got there we heard Howler monkeys so we went looking for them and ended up walking all the way. We did find them once we had turned around and was walking back. Actually had a successful animal spotting day, sloths, white-faced and howler monkeys, woodpeckers, raccoons, lots of lizards and crabs. It was about 3.30pm when we finally exited the park back in Cahuita, a very enjoyable day. Back at our accomodation, we dropped of our bag and headed across for a swim before enjoying a relaxing eveningRead more