The Halls in Japan

December 2017 - January 2018
A 23-day adventure by Sarukoru Read more
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  • Day 2

    Shinjuku

    December 28, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Tokyo-ites are gearing up for the New Years holidays, and we are about to find out what the city is like at New Year...what is open, what is not, what is crowded, what is empty. We are staying the first two nights at the Hotel Gracery - home of the huge Godzilla statue in Shinjuku - one of Tokyo's liveliest districts.
    Travelling days are stressful days - carting luggage around on crowded trains and spending quite a bit of time completely lost ! Early on we coined the new term "Japantrum" and have all had one more or less. Some pics here of the tour we took on our first day into Ningyocho, an older part of Japan with many traditional food and artisan shops. We tried New Year treats - cakes with red bean paste and amazake (sweet drink made from the residue from sake making).
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  • Day 3

    Ikebukuro

    December 29, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Tonight we are settled in our cosy (tiny) AirBnB house in Ikebukuro - once we finally found it (see Japantrums from previous post) it seems like a great place to explore from and handily located a couple of steps from one of Japan's fabulous supermarkets selling all manner of gorgeous bento and meals.
    Today we took an adventure on the train to meet Russell's language exchange friend Sayu and two of her three children (oldest one was at cram school). Sayu took us to a family restaurant for lunch where we had a lovely time - the children using google translate to ask each other questions about games they each liked.
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  • Day 4

    Sunshine City

    December 30, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Today we set off for a walk to see the Frank Lloyd Wright designed girls school Jiyugakuen Miyonichikan. It is now a museum - unfortunately closed for the New Year holidays. We took a walk around the outside, then headed to Sunshine City - a shopping centre in Ikebukuro with a huge Pokemon shop, Kiddyland, and an Aquarium on the top floor. Sayu had given us some free tickets to the Aquarium which she got because they visited just after a terrible incident where a tank of fish died. Highlights were luminescent cuttlefish and jellyfish, a fugu and a huge ocean sun fish.
    Ivy convinced us all to go to a cat cafe (grrr...). We then finished the day with a delicious bowl of ramen at one of the places from Russ's book - Bushikoto Taizo. You place your order via vending machine and then watch the cooks as you wait. It is not the sort of place to linger over your meal. In fact most of the other people there were dining solo and getting seriously stuck in. By the time we left a queue had formed outside.
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  • Day 5

    New Years Eve

    December 31, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    There were little flurries of snowflakes in Tokyo this morning. It took Henry and I a few seconds of wondering what the floating white things were before we realised - snow !!! After some deliberating, we decided to spend the day and night in our home neighbourhood again. I ventured into the food-hall of Seibo, one of the huge department stores. New Years Eve was probably not the best time to visit, but it was quite an experience - absolutely heaving with people stocking up on New Year food and sweets and gifts. We bought some kit kats and whisky and went home for a rest before heading out for karaoke and dinner.
    After dinner we walked to the nearest temple we could find on google maps. It was so quiet and peaceful even though it was so close to the city lights. A few people were milling around but at 10:30 pm there was no sign of any monks so we went home to bed.
    (post-script - Russell popped out again just before 12:00 and lined up for an hour to ring the bell. He had to team up with a Japanese couple because there were so many people. I feel sorry to have missed that experience).
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  • Day 6

    New Year's Day in Harajuku

    January 1, 2018 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Today we lined up with hundreds of others at a shrine to wish for good fortune, and drink some more amazake. By way of contrast we also walked down Takeshita Street in Harajuku, home of all the most kawaii shops in Tokyo. Ivy felt she had found her spiritual home among the Hello Kitty, Paris Kids, and Cosplay Costume shops and the crepe stalls. The rest of us just felt a bit overwhelmed and exhausted - the street was pumping from end to end and ringing with the high pitched twangy voices of salesgirls.
    Almost forgot about this morning. We went down to do some washing at the coin-op laundry around the corner which happened to be next door to an urban Sentou. Russ and Henry popped in to the men's baths (after an awkward explanation to the cashier that Henry was a boy not a girl) and then convinced Ivy and I to go in. It was mostly older Japanese women a little bemused by us I think.
    Our New Year's dinner was sourced entirely from the supermarket - soba, teriyaki chicken and sushi - delish !
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  • Day 7

    Roppongi Hills

    January 2, 2018 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Today we explored Roppongi Hills, a modern and posh area of Tokyo. We went to the Mori Art Museum (modern art) which is on the 52nd floor of a sky-scraper which, although it is much shorter than Tokyo Tower and the Skytree still has amazing views (to Fuji-san and beyond) by virtue of being at a higher altitude (ie in the Hills). In the gallery, we lucked upon an Erlich exhibition with incredible installations and illusions that kept the kids and adults entertained for hours.Read more

  • Day 8

    Dreamsleeper...

    January 3, 2018 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    A challenging day and night. With some sadness, we checked out of our little AirBnb home in the morning to fill in time until our bus to Hiroshima at 10:00 pm. The obvious first stop was fluffy pancakes in Shibuya and they totally lived up to the hype !! We window shopped in Shibuya until it was time for more ramen - another recommendation from our guide. This one used chicken broth (and for mine butter and miso). At this place the noodles are served separately to be dipped in the broth. We are lucky we eat early - again by the time we left the queue was snaking down the street.
    Now, I suppose we really should have known the Dreamsleeper could not possibly live up to expectations. Although it was exciting at first we all spent a fairly uncomfortable night and arrived in Hiroshima a little tired and sore (I have some sort of pinched nerve in my shoulder causing pain - but at least did not get bus sick...)
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  • Day 9

    Hiroshima

    January 4, 2018 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Now this is a hard chapter to write. As a child growing up in the '70s and '80s, the Cold War and the nuclear threat were constantly there in the background of our lives. 6 August was a date we observed - I remember going to peace rallies sometimes and at school we all read "Sadako and the Thousand Paper Cranes". In more recent times this seems to have been forgotten as we move on to other threats and concerns. Which is why I am very glad we made the trip to Hiroshima to remind ourselves of the unfathomable atrocity that resulted from the decision of the US Command to "test" their new bomb out on a suitable city - not too small, not too large.
    A simulation in the museum shows the unsuspecting city of Hiroshima in the early morning of 6 August 1945, going about their business, then "Little Boy" descending. And the rest (as they say) is history. We all felt very emotional walking around the Peace Park and the museum. Some of the many, many affecting and moving images:
    * The shell of the mostly destroyed Hall of Industry has been allowed to remain - a stark reminder against the rest of Hiroshima now built up with modern high rise flats and office blocks.
    * The letter from the US Commander in Chief authorising the use of the bomb.
    * A watch in the museum that was retrieved from the rubble - stopped at 8:15 am.
    * The charred remains of a tricycle belonging to a three year old boy who perished when the bomb hit while he was riding outside his home. His distraught father - for want of anything else to do - buried the boy with his trike in their backyard. There they both lay for 40 years when the old man dug them up, gave the boy a proper funeral and donated the tricycle to the Museum.
    * Tiny paper cranes actually made by Sadako in hospital, many made out of medicine wrappers and such like.
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  • Day 9

    Uno Port

    January 4, 2018 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    After our emotional day in Hiroshima, and a couple of hours of train travel we were very happy to arrive in the very welcoming Uno Port Inn. This place has some of the feel of a youth hostel - a shared lounge, friendly staff and fellow guests, but is also very comfortable with a warm room, crispy white sheets and comfy yakatas supplied. The rooms are all named after Japanese film directors, and we are in "Ozu". Uno Port is on the edge of the Seto Inland Sea which is dotted with Islands - some tiny, some huge (you need a car to get from one side to the other). The Islands are famous for art - films, painting and sculptures.
    Tired and grubby as we were after our travels we were keen to try the recently opened onsen down the road from the Inn. It turned out to be a most luxurious experience. Built around a natural spring it had a number of baths, spas and tubs (indoor and outdoor) as well as massage chairs and (for Ivy and I) a row of hairdryers and beauty creams and products for apres bath. We all met back up fresh and squeaky clean in our yakatas and had dinner at the onsen restaurant. The perfect finish to a long day and we all slept well side by side on our cosy futons.
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