Camino Portuguese

juillet 2023

Une aventure de 17 jours par Sue En savoir plus

17empreintes
2pays
17jours
124photos
2vidéos
378kilomètres

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Voyageur Camino Portuguese
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- 4 juil. 2023 à 10:14
- ⛅ 20 °C
- Altitude: 7 m
- Portugal Distrito do Porto Santo Ildefonso Massarelos Pavilhão Rosa Mota 41.146667, -8.63166741°8’48” N 8°37’54” W
Jour 1
Breakfast in Porto
4 juillet 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Stopping for breakfast. Not healthy but will walk it off😊
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1 j’aime
Voyageur Camino Portuguese
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- 4 juil. 2023
- ☀️ 21 °C
- Altitude: 13 m
- Portugal Distrito do Porto Leça da Palmeira Rio Leça 41.188482, -8.69952841°11’19” N 8°41’58” W
2
Jour 1
Walking to Matosinhos
4 juillet 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
The day started by leaving the lovely Albergue de Peregrinos de Senhora de Hora and taking the Metro back to Porto. I'd been there the previous evening, but to late to get a stamp from the cathedral, so back I went. For those who don't know, old Porto is a maze of narrow, very steep roads/passages, certainly not the best start with a dodgy knee. It does have it's own magic with lanes that are too narrow for cars.
So eventually arrived by the river and the easy directions were to foolw the river, keeping it on my left, then at the estuary, follow the coast. After Porto only a few slight inclines, so not a particularly hard day, apart from I hadn't really put in many practise walks this time.
Arriving at Matoshinos, no places at reasonably priced pilgrim hostels, so off to tourist office. Lovely lady phoned and booked me a room at the Seaman's Mission. Own room and bathroom, luxury. Did all nessary washing and then temperature dropped so may end up drying t-shirts from rucksack tomorrow.
Total distance today 19km (didn't set Find Penguin until a fair bit out of old Porto).En savoir plus
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Looks good☺️ [Paula Delfos]
05/07/2023RépondreTraduire
Voyageur It was! Cod beautifully cooked with vegetables in rice and salad. Just what I needed. 😊
05/07/2023RépondreTraduire
Voyageur Look forward to following your CP. I’ll be on CP in September/October
05/07/2023RépondreTraduire
Voyageur It’s glorious.
05/07/2023RépondreTraduire
2 commentaires en plus
5 j’aime
Voyageur Camino Portuguese
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- 5 juil. 2023 à 07:44
- ☁️ 17 °C
- Altitude: 11 m
- Portugal Distrito do Porto Leça da Palmeira Rio Leça 41.185, -8.69833341°11’6” N 8°41’54” W
3
Jour 2
Walking on to Vila do Condé
5 juillet 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Set off at 7:30, just because I was awake. Very quiet on the beaches but many active people running and exercising along the sea front. Different types of exercise equipment every few hundred metres.
Leaving Matoshinos I passed the oil refinery, but with the sun behind it, even that had it's own beauty.
Today was a day of boardwalks; mostly OK, but some broken and others suspect. Many interesting saline loving plants. The boardwalks aren't just to make the walking easier, but also to protect a fragile habitat. Made the mistake of walking on the beach when the boardwalk became covered in sand. The hard sand and cold water were welcome, but the climb back up through the soft sand was a killer, one knee definitely protesting. Arrived in Vila do Condé and managed to book a bed in the youth hostel. Beautiful building, apparently used to be a school.En savoir plus
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A very different camino to your last one! [Wendy]
05/07/2023RépondreTraduire
Voyageur Certainly is. I've been wanting to walk this one for a couple of years.
05/07/2023RépondreTraduire
Hi Sue, I like that I can see where you are on the map. [Helen]
05/07/2023RépondreTraduire
2 commentaires en plus
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Voyageur Camino Portuguese
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- 6 juil. 2023 à 11:07
- ⛅ 18 °C
- Altitude: 12 m
- Portugal Distrito do Porto Estela Valdoia Estela Golf Club 41.458333, -8.77333341°27’30” N 8°46’24” W
Jour 3
Vila do Condé to Fao
6 juillet 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Left around 8:30 this morning, opting for included breakfast rather than an early start.
Very little to see for a couple of hours as a sea mist was in and I could just make out the final breakers as they hit the beach. Not such pleasant walking conditions as hot and humid. Eventually the sun broke through and back to just hot. A huge proportion of the walk on boardwalks again with a walk along the edge of a forest just before entering Fao.
After so many warning about pilgrim numbers, I haven't met up, or seen, that many. They must be about though as it is not always easy to get a bed. Tonight's is in a beautiful private albergue and, as I write, I have a four bed room to myself. Just as well as my achy legs are being propped up by the only chair in the room.
Too tired to go out and eat, apart from buying a fresh roll, fresh fruit and an avocado with camembert crème (definitely more on the crème than the camembert side). Not so many pictures today, mainly thanks to sea mist. Will have a quick look at the map for plans tomorrow.En savoir plus
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Hi Sue, Are you booking ahead or winging it with the accommodation? [Helen]
06/07/2023RépondreTraduire
Voyageur A bit of both. I couldn't get what I'd planned yesterday, but it turned out OK. I booked tonight's stop as the next place was another 7km and I knew 30+ was too far
07/07/2023RépondreTraduire
1 j’aime
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- 7 juil. 2023 à 09:37
- ☀️ 17 °C
- Altitude: 9 m
- Portugal Distrito de Braga Marinhas Rio Jardim do Farol 41.545, -8.79166741°32’42” N 8°47’30” W
Jour 4
Fao to Anha
7 juillet 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
As youth hostel had been full was sent to The Old Spot in Fao. Very modern, clean albergue. There were four people staying and we're were put into individual rooms, so good sleep apart from painful knee.
Although on the Coastal route, it didn't go along the coast itself today, but it was a nice change to go through some small villages and woodland. Lovely donivito resting place with wide selection of food and drink on leaving the woods. Perfect timing for tired legs.
Finally met more pilgrims today. People from The Netherlands, Germany, Poland, Brazil (lovely lady let me borrow her Tens machine for my knee),.Italy, Canada and the US. I had been beginning to think there were no other people walking. Staying at Casa Carolina in Anho. Lovely hostel, great ambience (just had a lovely music session) and great vegetable garden.
Preparing for some rain tomorrowEn savoir plus
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Voyageur Sounds like a really interesting day! Hope the Tens has helped, and your knee holds up ok. Go well
08/07/2023RépondreTraduire
Voyageur So far, so good
08/07/2023RépondreTraduire
2 j’aime
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- 8 juil. 2023 à 08:50
- ☁️ 18 °C
- Altitude: 38 m
- Portugal Distrito de Viana do Castelo Anha 41.666667, -8.79833341°40’0” N 8°47’54” W
Jour 5
Anha to Carreca
8 juillet 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Left the lovely atmosphere of Casa Carolina in Anha with Helga, from Germany and Monique from Poland. We'd had a lovely evening singing with the few others. After crossing the Eiffel Bridge over the River Limio we had coffee together and then said a sad goodbye to Monique, who was to walk right along the coast, whilst Helga and I continued, slightly inland, on the Coastal Camino. A few ups and downs, some beautiful walled lanes but never able to get a clear picture of the cathedral. Several breaks as hot and humid today. Headed for the hostel in Carreca to find it already full! Lovely hostel owner said not to worry, his friend could offer a few beds in her home just up the road. Perfect. Helga and I had a three bed room and then we're unexpectedly joined by Monique. Lazy (needed) evening. Walked back to hostel (brilliant place, built in 1500s) ordered pizza and shared wine. We thought it was a much deserved treat.En savoir plus
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The 3 musketeers Pizza and wine yummy
10/07/2023RépondreTraduire
2 j’aime
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- 9 juil. 2023 à 14:43
- ⛅ 20 °C
- Altitude: 9 m
- Portugal Distrito de Viana do Castelo Moledo Prado Monte Cobertorinho 41.83, -8.87333341°49’48” N 8°52’24” W
Jour 6
Carréça to Caminha
9 juillet 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Left the hostel just after 8am and walked back down to the beach to a beautiful cove. A quick paddle in the surf whilst waiting for the cafe to open. Fortified with café con leche and pasteis de nata, Helga, Monique and I set off for our destination, at that time undecided.
We walked along the littoral path, sometimes passing through taller vegetation, other times along boardwalks over the dune vegetation. Another very hot day walking, decided to aim for Caminha. Parted company with Monique at Moledo.
Went to the Albergue de Peregrinos de Caminha and were relieved to find that we had the last two beds going. Not only that, we were put in a suite usually reserved for hostel workers.En savoir plus
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- 10 juil. 2023 à 08:56
- ☀️ 18 °C
- Altitude: 17 m
- Portugal Distrito de Viana do Castelo Seixas São Sebastião Ilha Morraceira de Seixas 41.895, -8.81833341°53’42” N 8°49’6” W
Jour 7
Caminha to Sao Pedro da Torre
10 juillet 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
Day 7 starts with us being chivvied out of the hostel. Having woken twice, probably due to achy joints, I then overslept.
The hostel manager had told us about the Minho river path that avoided having to walk along the road. At the junction, we met 9 if I want to walk the Varient Espiritual, which has been described as even more beautiful than the path so far.En savoir plus
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The 3 musketeers We are not far behind you. Did u take the ferry to Spain?
11/07/2023RépondreTraduire
Voyageur Hi, no, I'm going to cross the bridge as the next couple of days to Poneverde will be on the Central e. If I take the coastal route today, I won't have time to visit the Varient Espiritual, which is said to be beautiful. Buen camino
11/07/2023RépondreTraduire
3 j’aime
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- 11 juil. 2023 à 07:00
- ☁️ 16 °C
- Altitude: 25 m
- Portugal Distrito de Viana do Castelo São Pedro da Torre Ribeira da Veiga da Mira 41.993505, -8.664341°59’37” N 8°39’51” W
Jour 8
Sao Pedro da Torres to O Porrino
11 juillet 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Breakfast started at 7.30am but my plan to leave early went adrift again as we all sat chatting and then I joined in singing with Helga whilst she also skillfully played piano.
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Voyageur Camino Portuguese
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- 12 juil. 2023 à 08:43
- ☁️ 18 °C
- Altitude: 38 m
- Espagne Galicia Mos Sanguiñeda 42.176022, -8.61765442°10’34” N 8°37’4” W
Jour 9
O Porrino to Pondeverde
12 juillet 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Well, pushing that many kilometers may not have been a good idea with a broken blister, ouch.
I was so tired (and my knee and blister were really troubling me) that I did not write up this day until after my Camino ended, hence a lack of information, sorry. I knew that I wanted to be in Ponteverde for the evening to make sure that I had enough time to fit in the Variante Espiritual, starting the following day. What I hadn't banked on was walking my farthest ever, 40km. I stopped in the afternoon to book ahead as I knew that I needed to be sure of a bed.
Before that, I met a lovely German lady and we walked together, chatting for about half an hour, my first conversation for hours. I decided to walk on at the next rest point as I had a lot further to go.
Passing through Rendondela I then had a very steep climbs which eventually ended in a forest. Was very grateful to find a drinking fountain part way up to replenish my water supply.
Nearing Ponteverde, I met a young Spanish pilgrim who had passed me earlier. We chatted as we walked on at quite a pace. On entering Ponteverde we went our own way, I still had a distance to walk as I had chosen a hostel on the it had been over 13 hours since I left the hostel that morning. I'd had better days 😉En savoir plus
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Voyageur Would like to have a proper chat about your trip soon. There's no way I could have done 40kms in one day. You're a super woman!
07/08/2023RépondreTraduire
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