Kings, Queens, Pubs n Castles

August - October 2017
A 59-day adventure by Karen Read more
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  • Day 26

    Kilkenny to Kenmare

    September 11, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Started off the day with a walk up to the Castle. A couple of the super are were still there this morning, including some dude who had locked his clothes in the boot somehow so was wandering around in his undies and bathrobe. Must have been freezing it was only about 8 degrees.

    We were just going to look at the outside of the castle and the gardens but it was so impressive we went in. It was handed over to whatever the national trust version is in Ireland in the 1960's and they have spent a lot of time and money restoring it, beautiful job they've done too.

    We're heading over towards the a West Coast this afternoon, about a two hour drive. Got the Navman set on smaller roads so we had a pleasant drive through hills, farmland and the Killarney National Park. I read somewhere it is better to start the Ring of Kerry from Kenmare, so we saw the first 20 or so klms of it this afternoon. Nice drive through the National park with waterfalls and gorgeous views. Even had someone playing the bagpipes out in the hill. His fingers must have nearly fallen off with the cold, but good on him!

    Kenmare is a nice little town and we found a B and B at one of the pubs to stay at. I thought England had a lot of pubs, it's got nothing on Ireland. This little town which is only about as big as Biloela has about twenty!

    We had dinner around the corner and listened to some guys with a mandolin and violin for a while and then back to our pub for an awesome night with Cormac singing all our favourites!
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  • Day 27

    Ring of Kerry

    September 12, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    The plan today is to drive the Ring of Kerry, we already did 20 or so klms of it before we got to Kenmare last night so at least we have a head start.

    The day is not looking too bright. First stop was the Staigue Stone Fort, up this little skinny track for about 4 klms, buses can't go in here so that's a bonus. It was amazing, 2500 years old and all the walls and some of the rooms are still intact. Big enough to house the chieftain and his family and probably most of their village. There were steps built into the walls and you could climb up to the top, pretty spectacular views they would have had, it was a tad nerve racking on the highest one!

    Lots of pretty views as you drive along, nice little harbours and a wood turner we called in to see, where Graham scored some wood to take home. Unfortunately about lunch time the rain came in and never really stopped, it was pretty much a white out for the rest of the afternoon. We did see a few of the views between showers, and one spot where the rain stopped for a bit with a gorgeous rainbow. I was so glad we'd seen a bit the day before and got to the Stone Fort before the weather really set in.

    We gave up then and headed for Dingle. It rained the whole way so I'm not expecting the Dingle Peninsula to be too marvellous either. It is a cool little town though with lots of pubs, restaurants and music. And windy, we went for a walk before dinner and nearly got bowled over. Holy Moly talk about the Wild Atlantic Way!

    Another great feed and then we wandered around and listened to a few sessions and one group who we thought were going to be wonderful, had a big crowd and took forever to get themselves organised! They were deadly boring, so we headed back to the pub we'd had dinner at were there was a couple of guys playing and singing. An Irish dancer came out and joined them for a few songs, he sure could move. It was great fun and very entertaining!
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  • Day 29

    Dingle Peninsula

    September 14, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Looking out the window this morning, it's not looking too bright, but by the time we'd packed up and had breakfast it was improving with patches of blue sky peeking through!

    We're heading off to drive around the Dingle Peninsula hopefully we'll be seeing a lot more than yesterday. We did have a few showers here and there but it was mostly clear and the wind had dropped off a bit thank goodness.

    The Dingle Peninsula is quite a bit more dramatic than the Ring of Kerry. Beautiful scenery all the way around and lots of places to stop and take photos. More stone forts, they are everywhere around here. Makes you wonder why they would have wanted to settle on the windy hillsides and not somewhere more cosy.

    Stae Head is gorgeous, you walk out onto the end of the peninsula with all the sheep and look down over the cliffs into the bright clear water of the Atlantic. Freezing cold and windy but lovely views!

    I'd seen a photo of somewhere on the Peninsula and nearly missed it. We asked the waitress where we had lunch, " Oh yeah that's Dunquin Peir this is, you'll be needing to go back a bit" ha ha she sounded exactly like that!

    Luckily it was only 5 klms back so didn't take long, think lots of people miss it, only a few of us there to see the lovely headland. It's where the ferry leaves for one of the islands and it's rarely used by the look of it.

    More gorgeous views all the way back to Dingle where we would have been happy to stay another night, but all booked up.

    Pouring rain when we pulled up in Tralee. This is a working town by the look of it, not many tourists around. Still lots of pub but not much food or accommodation. We went into one pub and asked for rooms, after calling a couple she sent us to a B and B down the street.

    Sweet young girl in the tea shop there was so thrilled to have us, we didn't have the heart to turn her down. " You'll be wanting a private room then?" I didn't know there was any other kind!! Ha ha ha It was cheap anyway which is about the best thing you could say for it! It's a good story for another day. The look on Graham's face cracks me up every time I think about it!

    Back to our friendly bar maid for a Guinness and a recommendation for dinner. OMG the food was delicious. I keep waiting to be disappointed with a meal, but it hasn't happened yet!
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  • Day 29

    Cliffs of Moher

    September 14, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Coming up to the Cliffs of Moher. We take the ferry across the River Shannon into County Clare. Takes a big chunk out of the driving and it's an interesting addition. They have it down pat on that ferry, no mucking around. The trip only takes about twenty minutes and the cars and buses are on and off in no time.

    Lovely scenic drive up to The Cliffs. We have a gorgeous day for it, blue sky, not too much wind and sunshine. They are just as huge and majestic looking as I imagined. Lots of people there, but it's a big place so doesn't matter really.

    Had lunch in little Doolin about 10 klms away. We had a chat to a couple of young girls on a bus tour. Sounded like it was a lot of driving and not much stopping. Drove down through The Burren after lunch, totally different landscape, much barer, big rocky wind swift mountains.

    We were heading to Galway tonight but when we came through Kinvare it was starting to rain so we stopped her for the night. I wanted to try an Irish coffee, haven't had one yet and I'd seen a sign for them just down the road so off we went to get one. It's pretty good, and while we were drinking it three guys at the next table had their instruments out and entertained us for a couple of hours!
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  • Day 32

    Sleive League

    September 17, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    After the very grey day yesterday we woke up to picture perfect blue skies today.

    Drove out to Sleive League Cliffs. How gorgeous are they? Absolutely amazing and we had the best weather for it!

    Heading over towards Belfast to a place called Downpatrick) to see aGuitar factory in the morning. Pulled up in the Main Street thinking we'd find somewhere to stay, only place there was a dumpy looking hotel with washing hanging everywhere and very dodgy looking people sitting out the front. That's not happening.

    So after searching the Internet and the gps we found a couple of b and b's rang one who didn't answer but the second one did. Paddy's Barn it was called. Off we go to have a look. It's about a mile out of town, pulled around the back when we finally found it, It didn't look too promising either. About five mangy dogs running around and building stuff pulled up everywhere.

    We went in anyway, and it was gorgeous! Chock full of people having dinner and finishing off a christening party. The chef owns the house behind and runs a the Pub and the B and B.

    The B and B was beautiful and immaculate thank goodness. Back to the pub where Alex and old guy we'd been talking to when we arrived bought us a drink. Had a great chat to him and then a beautiful dinner.

    We chatted to 2 young couples at the next table for a while and they told us some spots to visit tomorrow and then bought us a whisky! Over the Whisky we heard the story of Lilly, the pubs ghost! Luckily she stays in the pub and not the B and B. They tried to get Gabriel ( the pub owner) to tell us the story but he said it had to wait for the morning!
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  • Day 33

    Galway City!

    September 18, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    I've fallen off the blog wagon, need to catch up on four days. Too much Guinness and not enough time!
    We didn't get far from Kinvara, only to Galway which is about 25 klms I think. Ireland cities seem much easier to drive into than English ones. We found a parking garage close to the city center, and had a look around the old part of town. Some interesting little spots. Buy the time we'd done some sight seeing and had lunch we decided to stay the night. Should be some good music around hopefully! Hotel cost us three times as much as we'd paid anywhere else so there had better be.

    What a fun evening we had. First pub we stopped in had a huge session and we stayed to watch them for an hour or so, then went across the road to another one. It was packed and these five ladies in the front row befriended us, told us who all the people were singing or playing. We had a great time with them and one huge guy there singing had apparently won all these talent quest in Ireland, he should could belt them out.
    Then a lovely older man who was one of the girls favourites sang a song and recited a poem he'd just written. Ha ha about Galway winning the Hurling comp for the first time in God know how long. It was really good.

    Unfortunately we had to leave them to get some food, which they thought was ridiculous! One of them told me " when you're at the pub, If you haven't eaten by 8 you're not eating till tomorrow" they did send us off to get the best fish and chips in Galway.
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  • Day 33

    The Wet Coast

    September 18, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Heading up the west coast. Got a few stops planned. It's not looking like the best of days really. It's windy, raining and cold.

    We stopped at Mullaghmore Head. Some of the best surfers in the world come here to surf the enormous way they get when the tide runs out. Not today though, there are no waves at all. Pretty place though and very quite and laid back.

    Next stop is the Glencliff Horseshoe Drive. Only about ten klms around the rim of what looks like an old crater. It was a nice drive, don't know that I would rate it as a major attraction. Would have helped if it wasn't raining too I guess.

    We drove on to Donegal after that, it's still raining and we were drenched looking for a room. Found one above one of the pubs. 167 steps as usual, but lovely room. Now what to do out of the rain. Donegal has a castle so it wins. It's a nice one too, was neglected for about three hundred years, but is being slowly restored by the Irish Heritage Society. Fantastic job they have done so far.

    Called into the Reel Inn for a drink. There were four old guys in there and they cracked us up for an hour or so. God there were f bombs going off left right and centre. And the young barman who they all gave a hard time, he seemed to be used to them, so I'd say they spend a bit of time there.

    Another great night of music at McCawley's I think it was called.
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  • Day 33

    Guitars and Giants!

    September 18, 2017 in Northern Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Next morning we had breakfast with Gabriel and heard all about Lilly the former owner of the pub and her frequent appearances. Sounded pretty convincing I must say. I wished we were staying another night so I could have another shot at seeing her!

    Visiting the Lawden Guitar Factory this morning and I was prepared to be bored out of my skull but it was a very interesting tour. Very production line, but still a lot of hands on stuff.

    Turns out the Castle Ward nearby is a famous Game of Thrones Location. More the grounds and the old castle and stable yards. Must do a lot of work before filming. You could recognise the locations but only just! Lunch at the Lobster pot in Strangford and then off to the top of Ireland for the Giants Causeway and Carrick-a-reek rope bridge.
    It didn't take as long to get up there as we thought so we stopped in at The Dark Hedges on the way. The Kings road in Game of Thrones!

    It was still not quite five when we got to the Giants Causeway. A good time really because most of the tourists have left. All the bus groups anyway. Amazing rock formations and the views from the top of the cliff walk, spectacular!

    Doesn't seem to be as much music in Northern Ireland which is a bit of a shame so off to find a feed and a bed for the night!
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  • Day 34

    Goodbye Ireland

    September 19, 2017 in Northern Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    The last place on the Northern Ireland agenda is Carrick-a-reek Rope Bridge. Not such a great looking morning today, bit overcast but no rain yet! Hope fully it will hold off.
    Nice walk along to cliffs to the rope bridge, then they have someone at each end so only so many people can get on it at once I guess. It's a little scary but not nearly as bad as some I've been on. Pretty sturdy so it didn't sway much luckily.

    Plenty of sea birds on the little island it connects too. We watched the gannets diving for their breakfast for a while. Then walked back along the cliffs. Lots of people and buses arriving by then. Drove along the coast road all the way back down to Larne where we are getting the ferry over to Scotland.

    We had a couple of hours to kill so we went for a quick drive into Carrickfergus. Visited the Castle, which is right on the waterfront and was in use right up until 1929 I think the guide said. Wish we'd had more time there it seems like a nice little city!

    The ferry only took two hours, got in about seven. We'd booked a B and B while we waited to board in Cairnryan where the ferry lands. Turns out there is not much to Cairnryan, only one street, no pub, no shop, no take aways. Luckily the lady who owns the B and B had bought some fish just in case we hadn't had any dinner. So we had a lovely fish and chip meal for tea served in her little restaurant, just us all alone. She had a bar as well, so a few drinks with her and her husband and a couple of their friends filled in the rest of the night.
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  • Day 37

    Isle of Skye

    September 22, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Taking the Road to the Isles to The isle of Skye. The sun has come out this afternoon for our trip along this pretty spectacular drive down to get the ferry across from Molaig to Armadale.

    We lucked out with a B and B here. We found this place on google maps and gave them a call. There are heaps of b and bs here but nearly all of them are fully booked. It's been an incredible busy year apparently. A lovely couple have been running this B and B for 40 years so as you can imagine they have everything down pat. Lovely touch, tartan carpet in all the rooms, chocolates waiting for you in your room and the heating turned on ready! It's cold too, time for the puffer jackets!

    Some lovely coastal views on the way up and then a drive across the Cullen hills which is a pretty barren looking peat moor up to Portree.
    It's almost in the centre of the island so a good base for a couple of days.

    Did a big loop around the Trotternish Drive, it's not that many miles but plenty of lookouts and walks so it took us all day. Stopped off at the Island life museum, Quitang, Kilt Rock and waterfall, Brother's Point, The Old Man of Storr. And we finally saw a highland cow, so gorgeous!

    Back then to Portree for an early dinner.
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