Kimberley 2023

April - May 2023
A 28-day adventure by Kat and Silvie Read more
  • 28footprints
  • 1countries
  • 28days
  • 240photos
  • 7videos
  • 8.2kkilometers
  • Day 1

    Bornholm to Jibberding

    April 30, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After a long time we are back on the road and finally getting to see the Kimberley region. We left home a little later than planned but walking our beautiful boy Alfi took priority.
    He promised he will be waiting for us but in the meantime he will have holidays with Milly and Milo 🐶 and will be in the best hands. The girls are having fun in the ‘big smoke’ and we have received first reports of Hoogzila showing her super amputation skills…. Extreme dog toy body modifications…
    We have done about 640 km and ended up in Jibberding Nature Reserve rest area. We are the only people here… and can hear the occasional road trains passing by. The sunset was lovely and the temperature was very reasonable which we are happy about… no thermals tonight 😂
    The road was rather uneventful, we have made our way through rolling country side with farmers being busy burning their paddocks. Had a quick stops in Williams and in York. Kat has driven most of today and I was slacking off 😇. It will be my turn tomorrow.
    A slight hiccup on arrival to Jibberding… it appears that our camper batteries have seen better days and either can now only have small voltage unable to fully operate the new fridge or are not being recharged during the drive via Anderson plug. We also could not undo one of the leggies supporting the camper floor… 🤔
    So a few things to fix in the morning and on the way.
    After a fabulous dinner (Kat’s meat rissoles, salad and beer) we are already in bed.
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  • Day 2

    Jibberding to Karalundi

    May 1, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Had a pretty good sleep last night but got a little spooked by some sounds and the feeling of being alone in middle of nowhere. Thankfully that feeling lasted only until about 9pm when we went to Lala land. We were pretty pleased that it was not a cold night so no thermals were required.
    Got up before sunrise and made ourselves breakfast and coffee expecting a cruisy, uneventful day on the road.
    We decided we will change in the drivers seat every two hours and we headed toward Mt Magnet. During the drive we were planning where could we possible change the trailer batteries without impacting on our very tight schedule and decided that Port Hedland may be a go. After two and half hours we reached our destination and stopped at the petrol station to refuel and change the driver. As I was passing the trailer I checked the connections to the car and to our sadness discovered that the cable with the Anderson plug disconnected/got broken (who knows) and we must have dragged it for a while. We also checked the fridge that unfortunately did not handle the no power issue greatly and was warming up our beers and defrosting our beef rissoles instead of cooling them down.
    The petrol station staff gave us a business card of a local mechanic/do it all guy and he confirmed that he can have a look in half an hour. So we headed to his yard for a lunch break hoping all will be alright.
    The wait exceeded the 30min but beggars can’t be choosers so we were patiently waiting and replanning our day.
    Finally we were asked to move to a different position and during that move we have noticed some old batteries behind the back of the yard so we ask if they by any chance had 2 batteries that would fit the camper. To our surprise they did! Yey happy days.
    The battery change over can only be described as pain in the backside as they are only accessible from inside of the camper and are nicely hidden under the bed. So we had to open the camper, get in, Kat would hold the bed up and the mechanic and myself started unscrewing the metal bits hiding the batteries, all of that in about 35 degrees. Lovely….
    All has been changed, Anderson plug is like new and more secured and fridge is finally going well enjoying the power supply.
    Unfortunately, we spent about three hours there and put ourselves behind the schedule and instead of arriving in Kumarina for a night we took a refuge at the Karalundi Aboriginal Educational Community camp ground run by 7th Adventist Church. Looks like we will have a peaceful night listening to humming generator powering this little settlement. We are planing to leave early tomorrow just in case they also do conversion therapy here and mainly to catch up on some lost kilometres.
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  • Day 3

    Karalundi to South Hedland

    May 2, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    After a great night sleep we broke all personal records and were on the road 5 minutes earlier than planned!! Unbelievable effort! We got up at 5.45 and treated ourselves to shower and were heading towards Kumarina just 5 minutes before 7am.
    The trip was rather uneventful- thank goodness as I’m not sure we were ready for more surprises and action. We have noted that it took about 1500km before we hit the countryside that we really love. Grassy fields, red rocky hills with white bark trees…. Ahhh… love it. The temperature has risen with every kilometre which we welcome as the morning was slightly cold - 11 degrees. Today’s drive delivered a dingo (skinny one with ribs poking out - shame we did not have any dog food to spare 😇), about 5 massive wedge tail eagles breakfasting on a cow carcass just on the side of the road and heaps of road train trucks past Newman. Other than that the road was quiet. After driving all day yesterday, we were swapping today every 2.5 hours which was great as we are both getting a little tired, despite the long night sleep we got.
    We passed the Tropic of Capricorn and sadly there were no stubbie holders in the Capricorn servo to purchase to remember this memorable event 🤣
    We made it to South Hedland after 17.00 and got a spot at Black Rock Tourist Park - $50/night… luxury stay next to a busy road. It is also interesting to follow the fuel prices, we filed first time past Kojonup for $1.78/litre and the last time so far $2.25/Litre in Newman.
    Today’s toll is 812 km, with total 1992.1km which is a little different than this application shows.
    Anyhoo, we have settled at the caravan park site number 14, had a nice dinner - salad and grilled chicken breast prepared by chef Katrinzo, drinking aperol spritz with ice cubes because the new fridge/freezer can make them easily and are getting ready for the opening night of canasta. It is 30 degrees - cannot complain. Life is good 😊! Although I lost / forgot it at the last stop our mosquito repellent device 😭
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  • Day 4

    South Hedland to Willare Road House

    May 3, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    We always thought that New York is the city that never sleeps. Turns out that it is also South Hedland and every person out of the ~16 000 inhabitants owns a car that passes back and forth past the Blackrock Caravan Park…. What a night…. Thankfully we were quite tired so managed to get some sleep. Woke up at 4am and got up just before 6am. Before 7am we were already on the road, stopping at Ampol to refuel the car and ourselves with some coffee.
    The road was long and quite stunning at the beginning with vast grassy fields and red rock formations, the scenery changed after about two hours into shrubby endless land with stock randomly crossing the road , We saw on rather large reptile - some kind of leggy lizard. The temperature hovered around 35 degrees. We passed the Pardoo Road House that was closed due to the recent damage from the cyclone two weeks ago. All the road signs in the area were lying flat on the ground, all bend.
    At the Sandfire Road House station we reached a new high in diesel cost… $2,39/litre.
    The traffic was close to non existent today, so pretty cruisy day.
    We got quite excited when we finally reached the country side with heaps of boab trees. They are so lovely 😊, we also saw heaps of flooded fields and damage caused to the main road that is being fixed.
    As per our plan, we arrived to Willare Road House. We have caught up with the lost time in Mt Magnet which we are very happy about.
    Today’s toll: 709km, total 2701km 👏🏻🤘🏻👍🏻
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  • Day 5

    Willare to Turkey Creek (Warmun)

    May 4, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Another goal achieved, another 10 hour night of good sleep 😂. We were up at the crack of dawn feeling pretty refreshed. The place was ‘buzzing’ already with the truck drivers starting their trucks and First Nation People heading for breakfast to the cafe that opened at 6am already.
    I believe I totally forgot to put into yesterday’s diary entry, the most exciting news! Our first Chocconutz nut butter delivery to a Perth based store - Brighton Road Food Market in Scarborough - was completed by our friend Sally M. Fingers crossed this is a first one of many to come.
    Today, we were on the road well and truly before 7am, settling into our new morning routine well. Powered by coffee and smoothie from the local cafe. Interestingly, even the smallest road houses have good coffee machines installed and so far we did not have a bad brew! Quite impressive.
    The drive was quite spectacular today. It is difficult to describe the beauty of the ever changing scenery. It is visually stunning but somehow touches the soul at the same time. It was changing today from fields filled with Boab trees, huge ant nests, grassy lands, rocky hills, into never ending shrubs. All green with cows and today even horses. Kat saw a very black snake on the road and narrowly missed a big bird of pray who was feasting on the road and was too heavy to lift high quickly. I swear it’s legs just touched our windscreen as Kat was trying to safely stop.
    On the way we stopped at the Fitzgerald River and stocked up on some mosquito spray and citronella candles (so we can have romantic candle light dinners 😆 ).
    The river crossing was perfect, the water was still flowing, there was no wait to cross the crossing either, pretty smooth operation.
    We made another stop at Halls Creek, just a quick refuel ($2.34/litre) and headed to Turkey Creek. The road between Halls Creek and Turkey Creek is really breathtaking. The Purnululu National Park on the right side was covered in smoke as there is a prescribed burn, on the left side we were surrounded by King Leopold Range, Durack Range - simply stunning, unforgettable, beautiful.
    There was still some water when we were passing the creeks and even a little water over the road in one of the dips.
    We arrived to Turkey Creek just before 16.30, set our camper, dined on Aldi’s spinach and ricotta ravioli, and now sitting back and listening to dogs barking from the Aboriginal community settlement that is located just over the road. There is only one more camper in the park that is so far the cheapest powered site we paid for ($15/night). We don’t have to rush tomorrow as we are almost at our final destination so will head to the Warmun Community Art Centre first.
    We also had some unforeseen news today, our house/Alfi sitter has do do some emergency baby sitting in Sydney and is no longer available to do two weeks. Thankfully, our friends came to rescue and will take Alfi under their caring wings. Thank you so much S&B. Donkey’s and Alpaca’s will also be fed so all is good, crisis is averted and we can continue our holidays with no worries.
    Today’s toll: 693km, total: 3395km

    Also, forgot to mentioned that we saw some helicopter stock mustering… 🚁 🐮 🚁
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  • Day 6

    Warmun to Lake Argyle

    May 5, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    We had a little slower morning and left for our final destination at around 7.30. Kununurra is only about 180km from the Warmun so we took it easy and enjoyed the beautiful and scenic drive.
    Kununurra surprised as a little as we were expecting it to be a much smaller town. We decided to have a cooked breakfast and stopped by at the Mango Cafe, sitting outside enjoying the warm weather. Not even 5 minute in and there is a car passing by with the Moir clan! How lovely to see them all.
    We chatted for a bit and than headed our own ways just to bump into each other a few more times at different spots - hmmm maybe the town is not that big after all…
    I was very pleased to find the mosquito device that I have left behind in Karalundi. After yesterday’s vicious mosquito attack we should be covered from now on.
    We arrived to Lake Argyle after 1pm and were very happy not having to wait to check in until 3pm as per the initial instructions. Our site is comfy with some trees around providing a shade. It is not completely levelled so we may have some blood head rush tonight hehehe.
    Following the race induction meeting, Rod, Kat and I loaded our Kayak on Lars’s boat, gave him all the food and drinks for tomorrow and should be all set.
    The evening finished with a very tasty lasagna made by Sally and transported to Lake Argyle frozen in Rod’s luggage and fresh salad.
    We got some briefing from the M team so hopefully all will be good tomorrow. We will meet at 6.10 am. Let the fun begin…
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  • Day 7

    Lake Argyle Swim

    May 6, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    After rather weary night , the day started early at 4.45 with shower, quick coffee and light breakfast.
    We met with Moirsketers at 6.10 am and headed downhill to the water to meet with Lars, our skipper, also Kununurra Dentist, on his boat Blue Mantra. We loaded our kayak and other gear on his boat yesterday evening so all was ready to go.
    The M team seemed ready for action as we headed to the 20km start line. Gosh that was far!!!!! It took well over an hour to get there. We lathered ourselves in sunscreen and I ‘jumped’ into the kayak with the help of others to head to the start line. Eliza was the first one to go. The plan was to swap swimmers every 10minutes and paddlers every 45min to 1 hour.
    The first 10 minutes went very fast and the swimmers were dispersing which help me greatly as I could see Eliza quite clearly. After her 10min, Samuel jumped in, then Sally followed by Charlie. They rocked it all the way, and made all this looking easy but I can only imagine how much effort must this must have been.
    Rod was on the clock and Lars was giving us pretty good instruction where to head as at times it was impossible to see the buoys.
    Kat and I manage to stay dry during the kayak swaps which was a bonus. It did get quite hot as the sun was hitting us hard from the 5km mark.
    The atmosphere on the Blue Mantra was great, with music pumping and smiles all around.
    All swimmers jumped in for the finish line and swam the last few meters together while the boat stay behind and the paddler headed to the right side from the blue finish arch.
    The finish line was very timely as just a few minutes before M team made it a crocodile also swam through…. The M team did it! Time was around 5.36 but will be confirmed.
    What a fantastic effort. The experience was just amazing, the water was warm, atmosphere great and the scenery breathtaking. Don’t think Kat and I will be taking a Lake Argyle cruise hehehe.
    After crossing the finish line we headed up the hill to get the car keys and made our way back down to the loading ramp. The cue was endless. I think we spent at least 45 min waiting for our turn. The road down to water was also a little rough and required 4x4 engagement to make it out of there.
    We met the M team at theirs and headed for the photoshoot at the infinity pool, followed by the dinner where some of the M team members were fading away rapidly. Had a little boogie, made new friends with team 99 who also did the 20km and headed to our camper.
    What a fantastic day, we are very happy we could be part of this event and spend time with a friend who had this swim as part of her 60 birthday pre-celebration.
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  • Day 8

    Lake Argyle

    May 7, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    It was long and loud night….
    As proper party animals we were in bed by 9ish, listening to live music followed by a DJ that was pumping until about 11pm. After the official party ended the masses wandered to their tents to continue… our neighbours were young and energetic and managed to party until about 2am… bless….
    The wind picked up significantly during the night with things flying around, including our towels.
    I was up about 5.30 and wandered to the infinity pool for the sunrise. There were a few other enthusiasts otherwise the place was deserted and quiet with spectacular views and amazing colours. I ventured back to ‘ours’ and had a relaxing breakfast. People started packing and heading back home.
    All Trails app suggested a few walks around so we took the easiest one - Ord river Gorge Lookout walk, an easily 1.5km trail with great views.
    After the walk we visited the M team to say goodbye before they headed back home. We were given heaps of food and beer so we can skip one shopping ;-), managed to do a M team Photoshoot and enjoyed the nice shady veranda at theirs for the last time.
    We had a pretty relaxed day, spend time in the infinity pool, did some clothes washing and ventured to explore the Lake Argyle history. We ventured on the other side of the Lake Argyle dam wall to a nice picnic park and admired all the water pouring through two tubes 4 meter in diameter to Lake Kununurra. 42000 litre per second per tube. By the way, supposedly Lake Argyle has enough water to fill 21 Sydney Harbours!!!
    I was hoping to get on the helicopter flight today but left the booking until too late and the pilot was in the air when I came to book my adventure. Fingers crossed they will have a flight availability for tomorrow’s sunset. Kat is not going, what a shame (fingers crossed she changes her mind until tomorrow hehehe).
    It will be an early night tonight as we want to head out tomorrow early to explore.
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  • Day 9

    4th day on Lake Argyle

    May 8, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    It looked like we will take off last night, the wind gusts were incredible and we were just waiting for the camper to collapse on us.
    Got woken up by the rising sun so decided to head to the infinity pool to do some nut butter photo shoot, only to discover that we were too early (that’s a first) and the pool was still closed. The photo shoot progressed regardless with some improvisation…
    Instead of the pool dip, we grabbed our yoga mats and exercised under the boab tree which was very nice.
    After breakfast we headed a few kilometres down the road to the Durack’s homestead to get some facts about this rather interesting Lake Argyle. The homestead was 80% made from the original homestead built by the Durack family and was actually flooded in the lake. Every single stone was removed and transported to Kununurra where it was stored before relocated closer to Lake Argyle and rebuilt. Patrick Durack, Irish man, bought the land in late 1800 and decided to move his stock from Queensland over to the Kimberley. They planed the move will take about six months but in the end it took 2.5 years. They lost most of the stock on the way and although he was a rich man in Queensland, due to some poor decisions made by his brother, he lost everything and had to start from scratch again. Lucky he put the land in Kimberley in his son’s name so he did not lose this too. Anyhow, they were a rather big family and in the end they sold the land to the government. Gosh what a hard life they had, working their guts out in terrible conditions.
    The homestead also had a video playing about the actual built of the Lake Argyle dam wall. How very interesting. We just cannot imagine how it could flood so quickly that people had to move in a hurry and animals had to be rescued (operation Noah). Lake Argyle is classified as open sea and we have been told the waves can be 2-3 m high and winds can be incredibly strong.
    After the homestead we headed to Kununurra to meet up with our friends Kim and Chris. They rescued us during our last road trip to Karijini when they appeared from nowhere and helped us to sort out our punctured tyre situation. They are from Melbourne and have stayed with us on the farm about a month ago when they took an extra detour on their travel to come and see us. They have flown into Kununurra from Broome today and will hop on a week long cruise going around the top end of Northern Western Australia. We picked them up from their hotel and headed for the lunch at the Hootchery, the oldest continuously operating legal still in Western Australia. The time with them was great and I feel very lucky we bumped into them and remained friends. Hopefully we will see them again sometime.
    We arrived back to the camp ground to find it deserted! Yey people are gone! I used the opportunity to fly the drone quickly as I knew the helicopter flights were not in the air as the pilot took a day off today…
    We now just sit outside, drink some beer to deter any MVE infected mosquitoes and watch the sky full of stars. It is a first night when its dark enough for the stars to make their full appearance. The cards are on the table, waiting for the score to be turned…hehehehe….
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  • Day 10

    Lake Argyle to Kununurra

    May 9, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Another very windy night and morning…. Gosh we were so lucky with the weather for the swim. By the way the results are in and the Moirskateers Team ended up in an amazing 6th position in the 20km quad swim (out of 27 teams) with the final time of 5 hours, 33 min, 20 seconds. Overall, in 65th position from a total of 122 teams.

    We packed up at Lake Argyle and headed to Kununurra, having a short stop at the Hootchery again to buy something something for someone 🤫. We have arrived to the KimberleyLand caravan park just before lunch time. We left the trailer there and headed to Wyndham, the most northerly located town in Western Australia. The drive there took a good hours and was another display of a beautiful scenery. Wyndham was interesting, quite run down but had some good history. Established in 1884 when gold was discovered in Halls Creek. The original town is now called Wyndham Port Town with only a handful of people there (although there was rather large police station…), the town moved more inland to Wyndham 3 mile. They moved the town as the daily tides risen and fell by 8.3 meters and because of that the original town was not able to be expanded. Wyndham is one of the hottest places in Western Australia with the average daily maximum temperature reaching 36 degrees. Luckily for us, it was balmy 28 degrees today - almost jumper time…hahaha.
    We visited the small museum in the original Wyndham that had quite interesting stuff there. They even had a ‘Czechoslovakian’ gun made in Brno on display. Heaps of old photos and some old cigaret commercials with totally unacceptable slogan’s if judged by today’s standards. We also saw Kim and Chris’s boat parked in the harbour waiting for the passengers to arrive.
    On the way from the original Wyndham we stopped by in a cool caravan park to have a look at the biggest boab tree… it was big indeed!
    Oh and I almost forgot to mention the unforgettable lunch at the local bakery… Kat had a barramundi pie and I tried the crocodile pie….it was… different, unusual… ok…. Not to be repeated any time soon,
    Before leaving the ‘newer Wyndham’ we drove up to the 5 river look out. Pretty steep drive up the hill with fantastic views across the land. Pretty spectacular and would be interesting to see that when it is flooded.
    We then headed back to Kununurra but felt tempted by the Parry Lagoon Park so we turned off on dirt road and travelled to Marlgu Billabong. It was a 6km one way dirt road in the middle of nowhere. The first lookout was at the Old Telegraph Line and we were quite stunned by the view. Heaps of boabs and wetland in front of us. We saw another car in the distance and decided to continue on the dirt road until it finished. We arrived at the billabong and it was absolutely beautiful. So many different birds were flying around, the wetland had a variety of lotus flowers, it was so peaceful with sun going down throwing a orange light on the dried grasses and water. It very much reminded us of Kakadu National Park. We met two local ladies there who confirmed that to their knowledge there are 5 salt water crocodiles living there. Did not see any so we think there were fibbing….hahaha….
    Kat drove us back home and again we very much enjoyed the sunset light reflecting on the red rocky boulders. We arrived to Kununurra in dark, assembled our ‘chamber’ and made ourselves a dinner including frozen garlic bread made on a pan…. That was a first and it kinda worked.
    We are based next to the lake so mosquitoes are going crazy here, we have lathered ourselves in anti mosquito stuff head to toe, have citronella candles going like there is no tomorrow and also have the mosquito repellent on….. fingers crossed we will survive with no bites. We were also told by the caravan staff there they have 3 fresh weather crocodiles here, one supposedly lives next to our spot… and has no teeth so they call him gummy - poor thing. Hopefully we can see him tomorrow. May prepare some purée snack for him 😉
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