Cabo de Hornos

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  • Day13

    Fin del Mundo--End of the World

    December 10, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We sailed to Cape Horn overnight and jumped in our zodiacs before breakfast for a stroll on Hornos Island (latitude: -55° 56' 29.99" and longitude: -67° 16' 9.00" W...check it out!). It looked much like the Oregon Coast, complete with drizzle. Seas were surprisingly calm for an area with an historically wild and crazy reputation.

    Later in the day we went ashore at Walaia Bay in the Tierra del Fuego archipelago and learned more about the nomadic Yaghan (Yamana) indigenous people who once lived there and were decimated by pious intentions, European diseases, and conflicting world views--an all too familiar story.

    We have been blessed with great weather to this point. The temperature at 4:00 p.m. was 58°--still normal.
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  • Day238

    Ooh sunshine

    March 9, 2017 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    I took it easy today, there was more to see and sunshine to enjoy. The trail went mostly through thick forest and was actually quite challenging, with giant fallen trees in the way everywhere. Thanks, you mean beavers!! ;) I climbed or scrambled over about 30 or so (see picture 2), which I am convinced would be so much easier without a 40 pound backpack...

    The last 10km went by the ocean, which I much enjoyed! Such a beautiful island - especially on a sunny day like today.

    Now time for a hot shower :)
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  • Day239

    Rest / work / planning day

    March 10, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Puerto Williams is a curious town. Other than being the southern most town on earth, with only 2.500 inhabitants, it offers a few shops, a fairly strong military presence, and ridiculous opening hours (for example 4pm to 7pm or "sometime after lunch").

    Things work slowly this far south, or tranquilo, as the Chilean says. So running a few errands basically took all day, working and planning my next days in between opening hours ;)Read more

  • Day4

    The Beagle Channel

    November 13, 2019 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Post-lunch, the weather is just stunning. Standing on the stern of the ship on deck 10, the sun is beating down and it’s actually quite sweltering. It’s certainly rather different from the last time that I cruised through this area, although I guess that was a slightly different time of year. We’ve entered into Glacier Alley now, passing imposing rivers of slowly moving ice named after various European nations. The most impressive of these, I think, is the Italia Glacier, which presents an impenetrable wall of ice as high as the mountains on either side. As we progress further, cloud cover begins to increase once again, but it remains bright and pleasant, with optimal sailing conditions for those of us of a delicate disposition.

    Walking around the boat, I’m enjoying stopping for chats with people and (finally) getting to use some of my languages. The working languages on this ship are English and German, but I’ve just been chatting to a French lady from Bordeaux upstairs in the reception queue who doesn’t speak much English, so she’s feeling rather bewildered unless her husband is constantly with her to translate. She was very happy to find a fellow francophone, even though I’m pretty rusty these days.

    The Beagle Channel forms a physical border between Chile and Argentina, with the latter currently on our port side. Our route takes us past Ushuaia, Argentina’s famous city in the south. After miles of fjords and wilderness with nought but the occasional seabird for company, it’s rather odd to see a city in such a remote location. But this tourism and administrative hub is home to 57,000 people, so life seems to thrive down here.

    Tonight we’ll be stopping briefly at the Chilean port of Puerto Williams for a customs check, before sailing through the night towards our next stop, Cape Horn - where, weather permitting, we’re going to be taken ashore in the zodiac boats and given time to climb up to the lighthouse and monument, where we’re promised a spectacular view from this most southern of all land points in South America.
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  • Day33

    Chilenische Fjorde - Gletscher

    February 7, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Heute morgen gegen 10:30 haben wir den Beagle-Kanal verlassen und befinden uns jetzt in den chilenischen Fjorden wo wir eine Reihe an Gletschergebieten bewundern können. 😄

  • Day7

    Puerto Williams, Chile

    February 5, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Heute verabschieden wir uns von unserer herrlichen Unterkunft am Strand und fliegen für eine Woche nach Puerto Williams - fast Kap Hoorn. Der Rabatt über Felipe hat geklappt, wir haben für Hin- und Rückflug so viel bezahlt wie eine Strecke mit der Fähre kosten würde!

    Unser Flug war atemberaubend schön. Es war zu meinem Glück kaum windig und wir hatten freien Blick auf den argentinischen Teil Feuerlands mit dessen größter Stadt Ushuaia und den Beagle Kanal bevor wir auf dem kleinsten Flughafen landeten, den ich je gesehen habe. Ein kleines Haus mit nur einem Raum, der gleichzeitig als Check-In, Ankunftshalle und Gepäckausgabe dient. Da unsere Maschine direkt zurück nach Punta Arenas flog, mussten alle Funktionen gleichzeitig bedient werden, was nicht ganz ohne Chaos und Verwirrung ablief. Die anderen deutschen Fluggäste ließen es sich nicht nehmen dies zu kommentieren und schlaue Umbauideen zu diskutieren. Wir machten uns schnell mit unseren Rucksäcken aus dem Staub.

    Puerto Williams ist ein kleines, entspanntes Hafenörtchen am A... Ende der Welt. Hier ticken die Uhren langsamer, die Supermärkte haben allerdings sogar sonntags bis 23 Uhr geöffnet.

    Nach unserer Trekkingrunde haben wir uns noch zwei Tage hier erholt und viele nette Menschen getroffen. Aber auch wenn es sehr schön hier ist, freuen wir uns darauf weiter nach Norden zu reisen, wo es wärmer ist. Selbst Philipp ist es ein wenig zu frisch.
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  • Day135

    Puerto Williams (1)

    March 19, 2016 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Quelques toits de tôle ondulée éparpillés sur le bord du canal de Beagles, des chemins boueux reliant les maisons qu'ils abritent, sur lesquels pétaradent quelques voitures sans âge poursuivies par des chiens bâtards, c'est ça la ville la plus australe de la planète. A quoi fallait-il s'attendre? Déçus? Non, bien au contraire. Derrière cette apparente misère, nous découvrons un poêle bien chaud et une vie tout à fait décente à l'intérieur des maisons.
    Puerto Williams n'est pas encore un haut lieu touristique, et les infrastructures sont encore un peu en reste. Après s'être fait injustement voler la vedette par Ushuaïa l'Argentine juste un peu plus au nord de l'autre côté du canal, cette charmante petite bourgade d'à peine deux mille âmes commence seulement à revendiquer son statut particulier.
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  • Day136

    Vélo au bout du monde

    March 20, 2016 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 37 °C

    Histoire de visiter un peu la région, nous avons décidé de louer des vélos pour une ballade au bord du canal de Beagles en compagnie d'Anne et de Roland. 47 km aller-retour pour atteindre le bout du bout de la dernière route (c'est comme ça, on est devenus des voyageurs de l'extrême!), facile, oui facile à dire plutôt! Ce qu'on nous a caché, c'est que le chemin n'est pas plat du tout et que les côtes n'ont rien d'une partie de plaisir. Heureusement que Youpi, Echo et Loup nous ont suivis (et souvent devancés) jusqu'au bout pour nous donner du courage et nous faire relativiser notre peine. Finalement, la journée s'est très bien passée et nous ont permis de sympathiser vraiment avec Anne et Roland.Read more

  • Day12

    Glaciers Galore

    December 9, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    It was sunny and 53° F at Pia Glacier this in South America just 600 miles from the Antarctic continent! Turns out it's the normal temperature for this time of year. (We could have packed less cold-weather gear.) The active glacier calved a blink-and-you-missed-it offspring, which quickly disappeared in the bay.

    Back on board, we cruised along "glacier alley" on the Beagle Channel. (Darwin fans can guess the origin of its moniker). "Most of these glaciers were named in memory of the nationalities of early European navigators – Switzerland, Germany, France, Italy and Holland", says our informative handout.
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Cabo de Hornos

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