Puerto Baquerizo Moreno

My last day...I did one final boat trip around the island of San Cristobal. The water was choppy and in a very quick moment, the boat tipped causing me and another lady to fall off our chairs and across the other side of the boat towards the water. As I screamed loud, thinking for sure we were going in (without life jackets), it was one of those moments that could have changed lives forever. Luckily, it did right itself and the captain had a word with himself and it didn't happen again.

In Bahía Rosa Blanca, we followed giant Marble rays and saw the smaller Sting ray, many black and white tip sharks who were basking in the shallows, until we disturbed them. We played with sea lions and saw massive shoals of sardines. I was telling a girl about how there is always one Splash Dickhead in a group and she looked at me, confused. That's because she was the Splash Dickhead. As she was ferociously paddling with her flippers to keep upright and shout excitedly to her boyfriend, whilst hovering over the sharks, they all got agitated and started swimming around; at that time, I chose to stay perched on the rocks out of the water. I also chose that moment to tell her that last month a tourist was airlifted to the mainland after a severe shark bite here.

A red footed Booby followed the boat in the air towards Punta Pitt, where we slowed down for eco- fishing; apparently as the number of permitted commercial fishing boats has been lowered by the national park, they allow the tourist boats to fish. The captain caught a Wahoo and 2 yellow fin tuna, killing them with a baseball bat and blood splatter every where. The boat looked like a crime scene. I was completely grossed out as the captain removed the hearts of the 3 fish and 3 fellow tourists (all men) popped them into their mouths. One heart was still pumping. Later, they were all treated to fresh sushi. No thank you.

I collected sea water for my Airbnb host who uses it in cooking which is a new one on me.

In Sardinia Bay, there were mainly just more sharks, in the shallow water around the boat. I snorkelled further away to avoid the sharks and find tropical fish. My search was interrupted by one massive shark about 3 metres away who circled me once to ascertain what I was. What I was was terrified. I tried to move without splashing and it started a second circle (showing some interest). I looked up to see where the nearest boat was but saw the shark move away, and I got to the edge as quick as I could. I had had enough sharks for one day!

Our final stop at Kicker rock, however had about 10 big sharks swimming, doing their own thing - they were around us but it's so deep, there is enough space for us all. Although, they were too close for my comfort at times and I think I am now sharked out.

I met Deb on the boat, a London lady travelling with her American friend. I asked if I could join them for dinner and we chatted until almost midnight. It was a real pleasure especially for my last night here.

This trip to the Galápagos had been full of special and enjoyable moments with the wildlife, nature, dogs, other travellers, the locals, the refuge workers and Gloria and her family. I have felt happy, present and grateful on almost :-) every day here, and Ecuador and it's Galapagos Islands will be forever imprinted in my heart.Læs mere