Chichi chicken

Pas de cours aujourd'hui ... On est dimanche.
On en profite pour aller au plus grand marché d'Amérique centrale dans la ville de chichicastenango (je crois que je l'ai bien écrit 😬)!
On essayeRead more
Jan 16, 2022, 5:00pm · ⛅ 14 °C Altitude: 2,075 m
GuatemalaDepartamento del QuichéChichicastenango14°56’33” N 91°6’40” W
Pas de cours aujourd'hui ... On est dimanche.
On en profite pour aller au plus grand marché d'Amérique centrale dans la ville de chichicastenango (je crois que je l'ai bien écrit 😬)!
On essaye le transport local publique ( ... et aussi le seul ... ): Le chicken 🐔 bus !
Ce sont des bus scolaires américains qui sont repeints et qui trouvent une nouvelle vie ici !!! Au bout de quelques secondes, on comprend que les 4h a/r de bus vont être super sportives. Conduite à fond dans des routes de montagne sinueuses ... 🤢😰, plus de suspension, plus de ressorts dans les sièges ...
On arrive tant bien que mal ... Dans un marché qui est certe grand mais pas exceptionnel non plus ...
On aura essayé le chicken bus !!! (La saint vierge sur le pare-brise n'est pas là que pour faire beau 😅)Read more
Feb 28, 2022 · ☁️ 16 °C Altitude: 2,021 m
GuatemalaDepartamento del QuichéChajulCerro San Andrés15°29’14” N 91°2’5” W
Today we had no compromises in the agenda. So, after breakfast we drive back to Acul.
On our way, we stopped at the town of Chajul to see if Ana Méndez was at home. Ana started her training as a professional nurse a couple of years ago. Unfortunately, the pandemic and the move into virtual classes made it very hard for her to continue her studies. With a very unstable and limited internet connection, it became almost impossible to follow the courses. Her screen would be frozen and the slides didn't load. Not to mention the limited possibility to ask questions and get help. Under such circumstances, it'd completely hard for anyone to keep up.
Hopefully, Ana will be able to restart her training soon. And if she does, APEI will continue supporting her with a scholarship. One of the sponsors of Ana's scholarship, who lives in Germany, asked me to connect them via video call during our visit. This was a very special opportunity for them to meet beyond emails.
In the afternoon we take time to go for a walk around Acul and Xexuxcab. This gives us the chance to take a breath from the intense days we had before, reflect and chat about the future.
***Note: The opinions expressed in this blog are based on my personal experience during this trip and are only mine. They do not represent the opinion of Asociación Amigos Para las Escuelas Ixiles (APEI) or that of any of my fellow travelers.Read more
Sep 22, 2022 · 🌧 16 °C Altitude: 2,080 m
GuatemalaDepartamento del QuichéChichicastenango14°56’35” N 91°6’42” W
Chichicastenango is a mid size city, whose market has attracted merchants since before Spanish times. It is held Sundays and Thursdays. We took a 1.5h shuttle to explore the city and market. While you see some tourists, it is mostly still used by locals, as witnessed by the foodstuffs and utensils on sale. We walked around a bit and tried different food (I don't think we'll become huge fans of Guatemalan cuisine anymore). We also checked out the colorful cemetery. While not as clean and tidy as you are used to in Europe, the colorfulness and less somber air was interesting to see.Read more
Jul 14, 2022, 12:41pm · 🌧 19 °C Altitude: 2,082 m
GuatemalaDepartamento del QuichéChichicastenango14°56’36” N 91°6’41” W
Immer am Donnerstag und Sonntag ist in Chichicastenango der grösste Markt in Zentralamerika. Der Markt verzaubert die Besucher mit seinen vielen Farben und dem überwältigendem Angebot: von Esswaren, Bekleidung, Schmuck, Spielzeug und leider auch Tieren 😔 ist hier alles zu finden. Hier kann man hautnah die alltägliche Kultur der Mayas miterleben, denn auch viele Einheimische (bzw. vorwiegend Frauen mit ihren Kindern) erledigen hier ihre täglichen Einkäufe.
Der Mittelpunkt des Marktes bildet die Kirche Santo Tomás, welche auf den Ruinen eines zerstörten Maya-Tempels erbaut wurde. Hier werden schamanische Rituale mit Weihrauch und Kerzen, sowie Hühner als Tieropfer dargebracht.
Nebst dem Markt machen wir einen kleinen Abstecher zum Friedhof der Farben. Die Farben symbolisieren verschiedene Aspekte: Während Weiss den Verlust der Eltern symbolisiert, wird Gelb verwendet, wenn ein alter Mann stirbt, und Blau, wenn eine Mutter stirbt. Aus Respekt bleibt es aber nur bei dem kurzen Augenblick.Read more
Feb 13, 2020 · ☀️ 23 °C Altitude: 2,048 m
GuatemalaDepartamento del QuichéColonia Sebastián14°56’56” N 91°6’32” W
Am Donnerstagmorgen holte uns ein Shuttle vom Hostel ab - Es sollte wieder weitergehen. Unser Ziel war ein bekannter Markt in Chichicastenango, der jeden Donnerstag und Sonntag stattfindet. Angekommen, stellten wir unser Sack und Pack in unserer Unterkunft ab. Maria, eine kleine, traditionell gekleidete Guatemaltekin empfing uns herzlich und lud uns abends zum Essen ein. Wo es genau hingehen sollte, verstanden wir noch nicht. Bis es soweit war, erkundeten wir den berühmt-berüchtigten Markt. Von bunten Farben war er kaum zu übertreffen. Überall hingen bunte Stoffe, Taschen und Gewänder. Es war spürbar, dass sich der Markt über die Jahre an den Tourismus angepasst hat. Jedoch waren auch Obst, Gemüse, Fisch, Fleisch, Blumen und jede Menge Haushaltswaren zu finden. Wir kauften ein paar Kleinigkeiten und ließen uns von den Gerüchen und Farben treiben. Am Abend setzten wir uns mit Maria in ein TukTuk und fuhren zurück zum Markt. Er wirkte wie leergefegt. Von den bunten Ständen waren nur noch kahle Holzgerüste zu sehen. Wir liefen noch ein Stück über die leeren Straßen, bis wir auf eine Menschenansammlung trafen. Viele Einheimische saßen gesellig auf Plastikhockern zusammen und ließen den Markttag gemeinsam ausklingen. Von einem Grill gab es frisches Hühnchen, Stierzunge oder Blumenkohl und aus einem riesigen Kochtopf heiße Schokolade oder Apfelpunsch. Wir ließen uns Hühnchen und Blumenkohl mit Tortillas und Reis schmecken. Dazu gab es eine leckere heiße Schokolade und Apfelpunsch. Maria zeigte uns, wie wir ohne Besteck den Reis essen können. So langsam habe ich wohl noch nie gegessen. Nachdem unsere Bäuche gefüllt waren, besuchten wir eine Freundin von Maria und erledigten anschließend einen großen Gemüseeinkauf für ihr Restaurant.Read more
Feb 27, 2022, 12:00pm · ⛅ 22 °C Altitude: 1,205 m
GuatemalaDepartamento del QuichéEl Porvenir15°41’53” N 90°57’41” W
In 2018, a group of cinematographers contacted Martin. They wanted to tell a story about a Guatemalan child, from the rural area. The idea was part of a larger project for a series of documentaries about the life of individual children across the world and their everyday path to school; a portrait of 199 "little heroes" (The project's German name is "199 Kleine Helden". For more info see: https://www.199kleinehelden.org/helden.html).
Martin took the team to the Ixil Region. And so, the village of La Esperanza Amakchel became the setting of the Guatemalan chapter of "199 Kleine Helden". They portrayed the life of Diego, a 12 year old boy who attended the primary school that APEI built and kept managing back then.
Today, we visited this village. And as it turns out, La Esperanza Amakchel is a very special village for many more reasons.
First, La Esperanza Amakchel is the first village we have visited so far (it's only been 3), where people only speak limited Spanish. Thus, Aroldo interpreted the meeting with the community leaders. Which meant we were doing a double translation from Ixil to Spanish and from Spanish to German.
Second, the school built by APEI has a very special place in Martin's heart. The funding for the construction was fully donated by the late nunn Käthe Müller, Martin's favorite aunt. And for this reason, when the school was finished, it was baptized as "Escuela Hermana Käthe". A picture of Sister Käthe is also hanging in the school's office.
Third, and very sadly, the current conditions of the primary school in La Esperanza Amakchel are a perfect example of the dysfunctional public system of education in Guatemala. According to current Covid guidelines, classes should take place every day in this village, but the teacher only appears once a week. Parents are quite frustrated and took the chance today to ask Aroldo for support in solving the issue.
Fourth, La Esperanza Amakchel is home to the family of Doña Jacinta, the wife of one of the village's leaders, who Martin met in one of his former visits to La Esperanza Amakchel. Her family has always been very welcoming and Martin photographed some very nice portraits of the family's beautiful ladies and her children on one of his last visits. Today, Martin brought the prints of the photographs to Doña Jacinta, who received them with a smile on her face.
And fifth, the story of Diego, the heroe of the documentary which was filmed in La Esperanza Amakchel, naturally didn't stop when the filming team left the Ixil Region. Indeed, while Diego's portrait in "199 Kleine Helden" is representative of the life of most children in rural areas of Guatemala, the plot of his current story is the plot of many stories across Central America.
In 2020, Diego took on the expensive and risky journey of migrating illegally to the United States. He's chasing the dream of a better life for him and his family, which his unequal, unjust and failed country couldn't give him.
Today, we visited Diego's mom María. According to her, Diego lives now in Phoenix, Arizona, where he found work at a restaurant. He frequently calls his mom and brothers and already started sending money to the family to repay the credit they had to take to afford his journey. That's the only way, as the people traffickers ("coyotes") that organize the trip demand amounts of money which are unpayable for these people.
While Diego is following the example of many others before him (neighbors, friends, his own uncle...) and his fate is a reflection of deeper social issues in Central America, his story suffered some plot twists which probably only few people around him have experienced.
After finishing primary school, Diego moved in 2019 to APEI-managed boarding school in the village of El Sumalito to attend middle school, fully funded by the joint scholarships program of APEI and La Sonrisa de los Niños, another NGO. According to his teachers, he was a good-performing student. Between the end of 2019 and the beginning of 2020, however, Diego left to the north, leaving his studies behind.
It is frustrating to know he didn't continue his studies. It is a shame. Yet one cannot blame him. One cannot blame him for hoping for a better, different life, which he would unlikely ever get in Guatemala. Time will tell what this step really meant for him.
***Note: The opinions expressed in this blog are based on my personal experience during this trip and are only mine. They do not represent the opinion of Asociación Amigos Para las Escuelas Ixiles (APEI) or that of any of my fellow travelers.Read more
Feb 26, 2022, 1:00pm · ⛅ 21 °C Altitude: 1,314 m
GuatemalaDepartamento del QuichéSajoval15°27’52” N 90°57’6” W
In 2020, storms Eta and Iota hit Guatemala. The extreme precipitation flooded rivers and caused landslides all around the country. In the Ixil Region, the small village of Tzibanay was very affected. One of the hills around the village landslided and destroyed the house and plantations of some of the families. The main water pipe that serves the village was also damaged.
APEI supported the school of Tzibanay in the past. Unsually, they didn't construct the school as the building was financed by the EU. Yet APEI overtook then the school's management to transfer it later to the Government. Today, a student from this village is studying in the Middle School of Sumalito Village, which is run by APEI.
Because of this close connection to the community in Tzibanay, APEI decided to exceptionally support non-educational measures and financed the material to build houses for the two families that lost it all. Water filters were also donated for people to have access to water after the break of the main pipe. Additionally, laundry sinks were given to some families to prevent them from washing their laundry directly into the river.
When we arrived, one of the community leaders recognized Martin and greeted him very warmly. The man almost broke in tears when saying thank you to Martin for all the help that APEI has given to Tzibanay in the last years. This was a very touching moment.
After the children got to break the piñatas, the community's leaders organized a small event with some speeches and a pray by the local priest. The prayer was also a very emotional moment for the people gathered. The replacement houses were also officially delivered and the laundry sinks and some bags with staple food were distributed at the event as well.
On our way back to Acul, one of the conversations ended up with Martin reflecting with us about the role of APEI in his life. He finished saying :
"From working with APEI, I have received more than I have ever given."
Another touching moment concluded our day in Tzibanay.
***Note: The opinions expressed in this blog are based on my personal experience during this trip and are only mine. They do not represent the opinion of Asociación Amigos Para las Escuelas Ixiles (APEI) or that of any my fellow travelers.Read more
Feb 24, 2022 · ⛅ 21 °C Altitude: 1,307 m
GuatemalaDepartamento del QuichéSanta Cecilia La Pimienta15°46’2” N 91°7’59” W
Remoteness is a central feature of many rural villages in the Guatemalan Western Highlands. Here, geography is certainly not an ally in terms of accessibility. Valleys and plains are separated by large hills, often with several hundreds of meters difference in altitude. And when roads are missing, your feet is all you have.
This is the case as well for Aldea el Quetzalito, a small village belonging to the Municipality of Chajul. Fortunately, a (gravel) road exists today from Nebaj until the village of Santa Cecilia La Pimienta. Yet from there, the only way is to walk for 2 hours in a very uneven, rocky and muddy pathway. Before, it was a 6 hour walk.
Villagers have been demanding the Municipality, their closest level of government, to finish the road from Santa Cecilia to Quetzalito. But in absence of any action whatsoever by the authority, they started doing it themselves. Part of the work has been started but funds are largely missing. People live from their everyday work as farm laborers. There's no money here to finance a road, especially not one of this magnitude, where space needs to be gained first from the mountain.
Three years ago, APEI finished building a primary school in el Quetzalito. The regular procedure after building a school is for APEI to take over the administration, including material and teacher's salaries. After some time, administration is transferred to the Ministry of Education for it to fulfill its Constitutional duty. This is the last year that the school in el Quetzalito will be managed by APEI. And with this school, APEI's mission in facilitating primary education in the Ixil Triangle will be concluded, according to Martin. People in el Quetzalito are sad about this step. Understandably, as the central Government, which is in charge of Education policy, is not as effective and efficient as APEI. Yet APEI makes it very clear: they have done the "big push", now it's time for the State to meet its mandate.
To get to el Quetzalito we departed in the morning from Nebaj, where I finally get to meet Aroldo, one of APEI's founders. After a snack and a lunch stop, we do the walking and arrive at the village. The children played with a "piñata" and the parents of Benjamin, the director at el Quetzalito's school, invite us for dinner in their little wooden house. We then get to the house of Benjamin, who very kindly offer us a place to rest for the night.
***Note: The opinions expressed in this blog are based on my personal experience during this trip and are only mine. They do not represent the opinion of Asociación Amigos Para las Escuelas Ixiles (APEI) or that of any my fellow travelers.Read more
Jan 2, 2022 · ☀️ 22 °C Altitude: 2,064 m
GuatemalaDepartamento del QuichéChichicastenango14°56’33” N 91°6’47” W
Die Fahrt nach "Chichi" dauert ca. 3 Stunden.
Das Dorf empfängt uns mit gesperrten Strassen und jeder menge Marktstände. Es herrscht ein buntes treiben. Es ist seit langer Zeit der grösste Markt in der Region der immer am Donnerstag und Sonntag zu vollem Leben erwacht.
Hier gibt es Trachten, Tücher, viele Essensstände und sogar Tiere. Aber der Tourismus hält auch hier Einzug. Souvenirs und Handwerkskunst sind vertreten. Da die Mayas vorwiegend Händler sind, kaufen sie hier in "Chichi", was sie später in Antigua anbieten.
Zeit und Wege zählen hier nicht so viel, wichtig ist nur die paar Quezales die bei dem Handel übrig bleiben.
Wir übernachten in einem Museums-Hotel.
Unser Zimmer ist mit einem offenen Kamin ausgestattet, welchen wir hier auf gut 2000 m.ü.M., auch gerne anfeuern.
Rebeka verbringt einige Zeit im gemütlichen Bett. Jetzt hat es nach Simon sie erwischt. Nach 14 h Schlaf geht es ihr aber schon wieder besser.Read more
Jul 16, 2023, 12:19am · 🌧 14 °C Altitude: 2,083 m
GuatemalaDepartamento del QuichéChichicastenango14°56’33” N 91°6’37” W
Heute ging es nach Chichicastenango, wo uns der berühmteste Outdoor Markt Zentralamerikas erwartete. Eine ganze Stadt die zwei mal pro Woche sich in einen gigantischen Markt verwandelt. Hier gab es wirklich alles...traditionelle Maya Kleidung, Schmuck, Gemüse und Obst, Tiere, Haushaltszubehör etc.
Nachdem ich vor knapp 1 1/2 Wochen im Krankenhaus war, hat es jetzt leider Maddi erwischt. Ins Krankenhaus ging mit dem Tuktuk. Da sie über Nacht bleiben muss, werde ich doch noch eine Nacht im Krankenhaus verbringen.
Today we went to Chichicastenango, where the most famous outdoor market in Central America awaited us. A whole town that turns into a gigantic market twice a week. There was really everything here... traditional Mayan clothes, jewellery, vegetables and fruit, animals, household accessories etc.
After I was in hospital about 1 1/2 weeks ago, Maddi has now unfortunately been taken ill. Wr took the TukTuk to get to the hospital. Since she has to stay overnight, I will spend a night in the hospital with her.Read more
You might also know this place by the following names:
Departamento del Quiché, Departamento del Quiche