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Camino de Santiago

maaliskuuta - toukokuuta 2024
49-päiväinen seikkaillu — Lexie Lue lisää
  • 196jalanjäljet
  • 5maat
  • 49päivää
  • 1,2kvalokuvat
  • 14videot
  • 38,0kkilometriä
  • 36,3kkilometriä
  • 1,5kkilometriä
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  • MatkaajaCamino de Santiago
    1
    Päivä 50

    End of trip recap

    11. toukokuuta, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Let's reflect.

    🗓️TIME
    Total days: 49
    Days on Camino: 33
    Rest days on Camino: 2

    🗺️WALKING
    Total: 1095km*
    On Camino: 945km
    Official route distance: 779km
    Shortest walking day on Camino: 20km
    Longest walking day Camino: 38km
    Average walking day on Camino: 30km

    *Note: incomplete data set, missing 23 and 24 March

    🤸‍♀️EXPERIENCE
    Weather: snow, hail, rain, sun, FOG
    Cats pat: 28, all on Camino, nil Portugese cats
    Times said buen camino and/or raised hand in greeting: five billion

    🎖️MVP days:
    - SJPP to Roncesvalles
    - Zubiri to Pamplona
    - Logrono to Najera
    - Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino
    - Villar de Mazarife to Astorga
    - Foncebadon to Ponferrada
    - Villafranca del Bierzo to O'Cebriero
    - Sintra

    💰SPEND
    Accommodation: €787/$1259
    Eating and drinking: €1006/$1609
    Transport: €74/$118
    Activities/entrance fees: €80/$128 (incl. spa)
    Average albergue cost: €11.40/$18.20

    💘LEARNINGS
    Many    Lue lisää

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  • MatkaajaCamino de Santiago
    Päivä 50

    My mortal enemy, fog

    11. toukokuuta, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Well well well. There was fog at Hobart airport.

    Delays grew, we boarded three hours late, we flew circles around the Great Lakes for some time waiting for it to shift, it did not, we diverted to land in Launceston, we refuelled and waited on the tarmac for the fog to shift, it did not.

    We bussed to Hobart, we pulled over with a suspected flat tyre but kept going, not to the city mind you, naturally, the airport, where we promptly missed a turn and had to go round twice.

    At nearly 4pm instead of 7.30am, I was boots on the ground in Hobart, and into Branna's arms, both of us laughing hysterically. She delivered me home, where thanks to her my plants were still alive and there was food in the fridge.

    There were also coming home gifts! A letter, a card, a PAINTED PORTRAIT OF BYRON, BLOCKY YOU'RE UNBELIEVABLE, flowers, some thrifted treasures. How lucky am I to have a life this sweet waiting for me.    Lue lisää

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  • MatkaajaCamino de Santiago
    1
    Päivä 49

    Let's gooooo (bicep flex)

    10. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We might not be the most efficient, but we points-princesses are certainly the most grateful to be here when it comes to business class. What a treat! They had to be patient with me coming to terms with how much power I wielded in the experience, I felt like a dog that could not believe it was allowed to sleep on the bed and kept expecting to be shooed. When did I want to eat? I was not aware that was up to me ma'am, oh lord.

    I'm flying with Qatar, who hold arguably the best business class product in their Q-Suites, which are only on some of their fleet. I was expecting to have it Doha to Melbourne but not Madrid to Doha, so imagine my cartoonish grin when I saw that pod on both flights. I'm sorry, a ROOM? PYJAMAS? LOBSTER? It's ruined me for all future economy flights I'm afraid.

    In the middle of the long one I pressed the call button (FRIGHTFULLY BOURGEOIS OF ME) to request a cardamom chai and the gentleman asked if I would like some cookies too? He started listing the types and must have seen me glaze over because then he said "or would you like me to make a selection for you" and quietly, that's the most attractive thing anyone has literally ever done in my presence. Yes king.

    Print, Baggins and I all arrived safe and, in Baggins' case slightly damp (?) in Melbourne at midnight, and plummeted back to earth by crawling into a nook to wait until our Jetstar flight in the morning. I switched to this after they delayed my internationals because at 6.10am it was a few hours before the first Virgin flight out, but the cheeky buggers have already delayed me 45 minutes so we'll see.

    I'm very excited to wear a jumper rather than my swishy puffer jacket, this has been a sensory goal for approximately five weeks.    Lue lisää

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  • MatkaajaCamino de Santiago
    1
    Päivä 47

    First day with a flight in it

    8. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Wednesday 8 May is a milestone because it marks the (slow) start of my journey home - today I fly to Madrid, where I'll have just over 24 hours before I start the long haul tomorrow afternoon. It's odd to be at this point, time has felt very stretchy, but I'm feeling balanced about it all. I have had a wonderful time in Spain. I am having a wonderful time in Portugal. I am excited to return to my wonderful life in Tasmania. It's bloody rosy wherever you look!

    Between quite a lot of metro trips (five transfers) and the flight, not a lot else happened today to be frank. I got a calamari sandwich that I'd believe was the best in Madrid, and I worked out the takeaway window saving me a very long time in the table queue. I wandered as per. I reckon if I'd come to Madrid straight from Camino I'd have fainted, it's so busy. I'm glad I had Portugal as a warm up.

    It is nice to be back with Spanish though, I was feeling really dumb with Portugese it's such a tough language. I was even helpful to my dorm mates - unbelievably the thing I needed to tell them (she'd left her room card behind on the top bunk) involved some of my most commonly used words, the only way it could have been more perfectly suited was if she'd also forgotten a small coffee with milk.

    Real Madrid is playing Bayern Munich tonight in the semi final of the European Cup and the city lets you know about that quite quickly - chants keep breaking out and those glorified traffic wardens are back, nursing their guns. I entertained notions of going somewhere rowdy to watch it but everything caught up with me at 6pm and I had a nap and continually refreshed the score at the rooftop bar instead. This was on a lag from the screams from surrounding buildings, but it did help clarify them.    Lue lisää

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  • MatkaajaCamino de Santiago
    Päivä 46

    The sun sets on Portugal

    7. toukokuuta, Portugali ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    My last night in Portugal was spent in aggressive application of the 'whatever you want babe' approach at a bar and bistro I specifically chose because it was called Josephine and I miss mine.

    Sandwiched on either side were two acquisitions - a red vintage neckerchief in honour of Juan, and an extendable poster tube to keep my print safer in transit, as well as swallow up my Compostela as well. Along with everything else in the pack they got thoroughly organised for the morning ahead, as I'd be heading to the airport by 9am.

    Finally, I went and sat in the hostel garden with a prize from whack-a-carb earlier in the day, feeling the warm evening breeze on my bare arms, and feeling ready.    Lue lisää

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  • MatkaajaCamino de Santiago
    1
    Päivä 46

    Hostel game tight

    7. toukokuuta, Portugali ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    It's been a culture shock moving from albergues to hostels, particularly as we come into big cities like Lisbon.

    The days of rocking up on the day and handing over a tenner are long gone - you'll want to have had a reservation for some time and you'll be handing over at least $50, but I've seen up to $150/night - still bunk beds mind you! They are FANCY, they are dedicated to Having a Good Time. They won't stamp your credential but they'll take you on a pub crawl.

    Layouts and facilities reflect a cultural shift from aesthetic walkers concerned chiefly with laundry, cooking, and sleeping, to Contiki abandon - huge common areas with pool tables and PlayStations, curtained beds to shield hungover eyes from daylight, and lockers for valuables we pilgrims did not carry.

    Security is tight - you get key cards, fobs, chips on bracelets. Albergue doors were just open until they weren't - you walked in and out freely until they locked up for the night about 10pm, nobody had a pass. I can appreciate fully now how much trust that involves both for pilgrims and the community in each town.

    The standard questions morph from how are your feet and how far will you go today to how old are you and what are you studying. I feel old and wise. I am the first up and the first to bed. I am friendly but reserved - we are on different paths.

    Pictured here are the ones I just checked into and out of, respectively.    Lue lisää

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  • MatkaajaCamino de Santiago
    Päivä 46

    Alfama etcetera

    7. toukokuuta, Portugali ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Cruising back in the approximate direction of the hostel to collect my bag and transfer to the next one, I explored Alfama, the district that survived the devastating 1700s earthquake and is therefore still largely 12th century.

    Doesn't that absolutely cave your bonce in? Other areas of the city were reconstructed afterwards, and to your average punter are still very old, but these little streets had stood for ages and many were too narrow for cars which delighted me, naturally.

    These pictures will confuse because they aren't all Alfama but I'm squeezing things into posts now like I am to Baggins, please bear with.    Lue lisää

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  • MatkaajaCamino de Santiago
    Päivä 46

    Quite a brown lunch

    7. toukokuuta, Portugali ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    A bifana sort of looks like it sounds actually, and tastes much better than it looks. Which is to say, sometimes scraggly bits of pork on their own in a roll. Except the pork has been cooked really well and then I think marinated in something, shall Google later. It was so delicious - juicy and savoury.

    I'd skimmed a blog to find out the scale of the market and it mentioned Tabernita is the sort of joint the stall holders will peel off to after they get bored. I wasn't looking for it, but I found it at the right time and there was a table free so what the heck. I am so enjoying letting things fall into my lap, and I seem to just be having outrageous luck floating along with the current.

    I caught the woman's eye immediately, pointed to a table outside then raised my eyebrows and pointed to myself, the international sign for can I sit there please. She nodded, brought me a menu, then we repeated that easily at the point of ordering, she scribbled it down and whacked the carbon copy under the table clip. I didn't wait long for my food, and as I was enjoying it, I watched group after group have a nightmare trying to sort what I'd just managed.

    One of these was a group of Chinese Americans, three young people and two older women. Can't for the life of me work out if the two opposite me were brother and sister or a couple but she was exceptionally sweet and he was a raging pessimistic knob, managed to find something to complain about at every turn, and at one point called her an idiot for squeezing her lemon higher from the plate than he thought appropriate. I do not understand why people choose to be miserable sacks of POO. I took a group photo for them and I hope he looked crap.    Lue lisää

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  • MatkaajaCamino de Santiago
    11111
    Päivä 46

    Feira da Ladra

    7. toukokuuta, Portugali ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Lisbon is cool and hip, yeah, and I'M cool and hip, YEAH? I'll wait....

    ...good. So yes I'd seen a bit of social media content in the lead up to the trip because if anyone knows what I'm into, it's big Daddy Zuk. In particular, I'd been made very aware that on Saturdays and Tuesdays there's a flea market around the Pantheon and Mercato Santa Clara.

    Well today's my last full day in Portugal, and it's Tuesday. Gird. Your. Loins. I got there as some stalls were still setting up, which is a good sign, although to be fair we all move very slowly in the mornings here, most shops open at 10am. On Camino I'd have done a third of the days graft by then but now I just schlep around yawning. I'm on holiday, leave me alone.

    I pottered happily around the large completely dog ridden market for about three hours, noticing the heat of the day creeping up as the shaded sections became more wonderful (it was to reach 29 today). Bought nothing, but only because everything I liked really needed a Portugese villa to install it in - light fixtures, giant embroidered table cloths, things of that ilk.    Lue lisää

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