Nepal
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    • Päivä 18

      Free Day, Sirubari, Lamjung

      28. tammikuuta 2017, Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

      Today started off easily enough, read my book for a bit, "showered", breakfast. I then walked to the next village to one of the teacher's homes because Beda and Bobita had other things to do. I wasn't entirely sure why I was going, and the directions I was given to get there were "follow the road until you see someone to show you his house" lol. Thankfully I did find it no problem! There was someone leaving who showed me where to go. When I arrived, I picked up what I had been sent for, mutton. I guess today was slaughter day.. Must have something to do with some party I heard is going on today. Pretty sure that I don't like mutton but I guess we'll see. Along the walk there I was able to talk breifly with Mom before the signal faded!

      When I returned home I decided I needed to do some laundry. Finding the cistern was a challenge, apparently I just don't understand directions very well.. Or I don't understand the difference between a big tree and a medium sized tree, but hey. But once I did find it I started washing my clothes. And didn't have enough laundry soap of course. So I used a bar of soap meant for the body and it worked well enough! After I figured out how the heck to wash clothes properly without a sink... Pretty sure I didn't do a very good job on some items. I also understand now why a lot of people don't bother with socks here (they all wear sandals 90% of the time) even when it's cold. Because they're impossible to clean! I will be following suit now and dealing with cold feet instead of the struggle of washing socks that just don't get clean. Thankfully, I only brought black socks so you can't really tell that they're still covered in dirt. They smell fine though :p Once the clothes dry we'll see how successful I was with washing them.. While I was doing my laundry a goat tried to eat some socks! It was kind of comical but frustrating at the same time haha.

      When I was back from washing clothing, there was no one at the house and I took the opportunity to just relax. Wishing I had some beers to drink, but not enough to walk down to town for them! So instead I read my book, did some stretching and other exercises. I can feel myself getting more flexible in some ways, like the hips even though they ache, and in some ways I feel tighter, my calves in particular. And my back aches, but pretty sure that's just muscles getting stronger..

      At some point in the afternoon Bobita came back to the house to make some tea and I went with her down to the celebration. I'm not entirely sure what this one was all about... Some girls tried to explain it and I think it's something to do with honouring women. Grandma was there and received a blessing of some sort in front of the... Blessing area? One pro of letting the girls use my phone for photos meant they took one of the area I'm talking about so I didn't have to be the offensive stranger taking pictures of everything ;) This one was more elaborate than the one at the wedding party, but the same idea. Offerings of food, money, flowers, in bowls made of banana leaves all placed under a knit cloth draped from 4 poles decorated with leaves and flowers. I'm starting to notice a clear separation between men and women in al public events. There is very little mixing of the sexes, the women all sit together and the men sit together. The children drift between the two groups but tend to stay with the women. Or, like today, with me. They're fascinated by me and honestly I'm okay with their company because it's so easy to talk to children. All they want to do is learn and have fun, if the conversation isn't all that intelligent well that's okay. There is one brother and sister in particular that just melt my heart, children of one of the teachers. The little boy always comes and sits with me and the girl is always explaining what's happening and showing me around. Makes me think of having my own one day ;) oh! And the children gave me these little fruits that were super sour and delicious and I wish that we had them at home! Called lapsi I believe.

      For dinner we had the mutton.. Definitely not a fan. But I tried!
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    • Päivä 31

      Japanese Group Leaves, Sirubari, Lamjung

      10. helmikuuta 2017, Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      This morning came wayyy too quick. Bed's alarm went off at 4am and I was out of bed by 4:30 am and we left at 5:00 am. I was trusted to lead the group on the walk down, and didn't carry anything, telling the group that if they needed help with their stuff to let me know and I'd help them. Turns out the offer wasn't needed! So it was easy for me ;) Thankfully because I feel like crap today. Definitely the worst of the cold that's going around hit me today.. Oh well, I've survived worse ;) The walk down was all together uneventful. We made it to Bhotewodar very quickly, only stopping once on the way down. The walk seems shorter in the dark somehow and I'm very happy I made all the correct turns haha.

      Because we made it to the village much more quickly than anticipated we had time to kill and had tea and samosas while we waited for the groups bus to arrive. It was kind of neat to watch the town wake up, all the lights starting to go on and people starting their days. While we were waiting, the English teacher passed by the shop we were in on his way to school. He stopped and had a tea with us before continuing to Sirubari. I couldn't stop yawning the entire time we were waiting, thankfully the tea and samosas helped keep me awake! And warm, it was very cold when we stopped moving.

      Bed and I said our goodbyes to the group and made our way back up to the village. It didn't take us very long, only about an hour and 15 minutes including a break partway. That's the same amount of time it took us to get down as a group! Must be getting into shape or something. By the time we got back home I was feeling much better, especially after a cold shower and some food. Refreshing. We even made it to school early! Apparently the reason our English teacher, Mahadev, was going up so early is because District exams are next week and the older students are spending extra time at school studying.

      At school I spent the day getting the laptop set up, changing some basic settings, installing new programs and showing Ganesh some of the differences with Windows 8. I also showed a few of the teachers how to do video calling over Messenger. Previously they didn't have anything with a camera and microphone to do so! Because today was a half day I didn't finish everything and brought the laptop home with me so I can try to finish tomorrow. It's just slow going because of the dinosaur internet connections. I was called gentle today as well haha. In comparison to the Japanese group who are funny and energetic. I suppose gentle is a good term ;)

      After school there was a celebration going on at another teacher's house that all the teachers went to. The celebration was in honour of this teacher's mother who had turned 84. Apparently that's a big accomplishment to celebrate! First Bobita and I stopped by the house to drop off bags and feed the animals. When we arrived we were given sel roti (the donut like bread) and cussar (the small sweet balls) in banana leaf bowls, topped off with curry. We used the roti to eat the curry and I gave my cussar to Bobita, I have to admit it's not my favourite, only because it's hard and my teeth are still bothering me from the work I had done in December.. Not good! But nothing I can do about it now. The set up of the celebration was the same as the previous ones I've been too with the four poles, a hanging cloth, and numerous offerings in leaf bowls. There was a preist who was talking, this time something about how their holy book needed to be changed to adapt to modern times because it previously referred to things flying in the sky as God's, which is not the case when it comes to airplanes. I thought that was interesting! Partway through the Preist talking one of the students came and got me telling me to eat. She brought me to the other side of the house where I ate Soo much food! I couldn't communicate that I was full to the man serving me, but that's okay it was delicious. There was (hot) rice pudding with fresh coconut mixed in yummy. As well as a curry and a pickled side that they make. I accidentally ate a full chile... That was hot. But thankfully I had lots of water! I went back to my spot to continue listening as best I could. At some point a group of ladies showed up and were chattering amongst themselves about me trying to encourage their children to say hello to me and asking the questions I've come to expect about my age, marital status, country, etc. Bed's neighbour was sitting next to me and told me they were calling me a very pretty lady. When the preist concluded his talking everyone who had been listening raised their hands a number of times and shouted yay. I've seen that before so I imagine that it must be a typical way of ending the talking and starting the mingling. As soon as the talking was finished the group of ladies that was talking to me swarmed me and started taking pictures. It was very overwhelming.. One woman was the same one who took a photo of me at the last celebration! She showed me the photo haha. Anyway, thankfully Bed rescued me from that. He wanted me to take a photo of him, Mahadev, and Ganesh presenting the 84 year old woman with a gift, a lovely scarf. Some of the photos turned out pretty nicely :) After taking the photo the men went off to eat. There was more confusion as someone tried to hand me a plate of food and I couldn't explain that I'd already eaten... Thankfully Bobita overheard the commotion and helped me out. We left shortly after because the animals needed taking care of. I was sad to go, I've started to really enjoy myself despite the language barrier! Which I might add is becoming less of an issue. Too bad I'm not staying long enough to truly be able to understand everything..

      Back at home I spent some time relaxing, writing, and enjoying some quiet. We didn't eat dinner tonight because we ate at the party so late and instead just watched some Tv. The same show we've been watching most nights about the Hindu religion. It's funny and probably quite educational if I could understand more, but the acting is story enough! I'm sure that I'll sleep quite well tonight.
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    • Päivä 29

      Sirubari, Lamjung

      8. helmikuuta 2017, Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      This morning was an early morning! The group, Yogendra and I left at 5:30 ish to hike to the top of the mountain to watch the sunrise! Or tried to anyway, we didn't make it in time because as a group we were slow but it was beautiful nonetheless. I may try to go on my own one time before I leave, but at the same time maybe not haha. Yogendra trusted me to lead the way and let me tell you in the dark everything looks so different! We missed one turn but it only turned into a short detour, actually I think it was faster at the end of the day really. When we finally reached the top the views were breathtaking. It was clear and you could see everything! Bhotewodar was down in the distance, the school was closer down, the Himalayas were poking through the clouds and turning pink from the rising sun. What a peaceful place! Because the top of the mountain also hosts a cell tower I had an excellent signal. I called both mom and dad and spoke to them briefly while the rest of the group took pictures and posed with a baseball bat that one of them brought. I should really ask about that... On our way down we stopped for tea at a shop by the senior school (where one of the festivals was at) before making our way back to the house. Yogendra and I went back more quickly as time was running short and I had things I needed to prepare before school started.

      We ate breakfast as a group again and afterwards Bed and I snuck off to make it to school on time. The group arrived later, about 45 minutes after classes started. All the students were called to stand in a line, similar to how they do first thing in the morning when they do a few discipline exercises, sing the national anthem, and answer a few questions. I guess I haven't actually written about that yet! First thing in the morning the students are called to the play field and stand in lines based on what class they're in. Then one of the teachers, usually Ganesh, runs them through some poses. When I first arrived the commands were all in Nepali but, for my benefit I think, they switched to English at some point. The poses range from standing at attention and at ease, moving their arms to the sides and clapping above their heads. To teach discipline and respect I believe. Some mornings too the students uniforms and fingernails are inspected to make sure that they're clean and respectable. They then sing their national anthem, which I believe that I almost have memorized, and one student from each row comes to the front to ask a question of their fellow students and await a response. The questions are different each day, I should find out more about them. The role of the teachers here is so important to these students. I was talking to my teacher friend about it and it makes my heart melt about the compassion and caring that these people have for their students. I'm sure teachers at home do too! But there is a need here to educate the children of parents that may not be educated themselves. Apparently a lot of children don't receive much attention from their parents at home because of the busy lifestyle here. So it's the school's job to teach the children about things like basic hygiene - changing socks everyday, brushing teeth, washing, etc - among other things. They're fighting very hard to break a cycle here in Nepal and I have a lot of respect for it. They want to see the children educated so that the country can be brought to a better place as a whole...

      Anyway, back to the arrival of the group at school. The students were called to stand in a line at the side of the school and each Japanese volunteer introduced themselves. Afterwards the group split up and took the older kids up the the cistern to teach them about hygiene. I stayed down at the school with the younger kids and participated with the activities the group had planned for them. There was lots of singing and dancing! At first the children weren't really into it but by the end of it they sure were. My favourite part was when they tried to get everyone signing "if you're happy and you know it" haha reminded me so much of my childhood! I loaned them my speaker to play the music and of course sang along. Some teachers watched and others participated. I did a bit of both taking some pictures as well.

      At some point I was called down to the office because the computer keyboard wasn't working. So we searched and found the keys for the computer lab finally! And were able to get a new keyboard plugged in. I made my way back to the computer lab to try and finish setting everything up. During that time a class came in and I got them playing on the 5 computers that turn on at once, we need another powerbar for the 6th one. Boy is it crazy when they all come in at once screaming asking questions, constantly saying ma'am ma'am here here help me! But eventually they settled down and managed to play nicely. No typing lessons today! But, even playing games I see their improvement in using the computers. I've been showing them a bit of what I do when I'm trying to get them working, how the keyboards plug in, proper ways to make short cuts, copy files, etc and they're starting to be more self sufficient which is great. There was this game that they all used to fight over too, a dirt biking game, that was only on one computer and now it's on all of them. Less fighting thankfully... Anyway, at some point the Japanese group came in to observe and talk with the children. That helped with the chaos! Becuase 5 computes and 15 children is difficult to manage. The Japanese and the students played and at some point they all started dancing together.

      When lunch time rolled around I forced the children to abandon the room and we went to eat. We had a very special lunch of chicken instead of lentils! An honour for the group, I wonder if they know that it was a special lunch? In any case it was delicious. It was also really funny watching each person in the group try a Chile, they all had the same reaction, utter horror and needed water immediately. They're funny! A good group of people for sure, they have good hearts :)

      After lunch the group went up to the upper room and engaged some of the children in a writing exercise. Before they left Japan, they had local Japanese children write messages to the children here. So the students were responding! It looked like they were having a ton of fun :) I stood outside with some of the other teachers and we were talking. I feel very included these days and I love it here. We were talking mostly about visiting Canada and how things work there. I didn't know that the nearest Canadian visa office is actually in Delhi, India. So it's a big deal to get out there and get a visa.. Which sucks because I was really hoping that I could help my friend a bit more in terms of coming to Canada, with the paperwork etc online but we'll see.

      At some point I was called away to help the next class with the computers. This class was actually less interested in the computers and really wanted me to get the DVD player working. I don't think we have the proper cables though.

      After school we had tea at home and the group went back to the cistern to wash up again. Sudarsan and I went to watch the sun go down again and caught the tail end of it. On our way back he picked up some dried Bamboo pieces and brought them back home. At home we turned them into a these little pinwheel fans called Firfire in Nepali and Taketonbo in Japanese. There's a picture included, but it's two strips of Bamboo crossed over one another put onto a small stick. The small stick then goes into a small tube and children run with the toy making the blades spin. Simple yet effective entertainment!

      We then had dinner and I helped Satya with the dishes. And so many dishes! It's incredible haha. But as a team we managed quite quickly. I've become pretty good at it as I've made it my job to help with that at the very least ;) After dinner the "boys" and I played cards again in our room. I really like this rummy game, I'll be sure to teach you guys at home how to play! I really feel like part of the family here. I was worried at first that I'd feel a bit left out because there would be a Japanese group and a Nepali group but I've been adopted by the Nepali's and I love it. Warm and fuzzy feelings ;)
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    • Päivä 16

      Senior School Festival, Sirubari, Lamjun

      26. tammikuuta 2017, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Today started as normal, breakfast, walk to school. Go to classes, sneak away for a phone chat with Kris and Anita, then as I was on the phone one of the teachers walked by me and invited me to go to a festival at the senior school. So I went, and acheived one of my goals of walking up to the top our our mountain peak! The walk was 1km in distance with 250m elevation gain. All stairs really, and hot!

      And, I cannot even begin to describe how amazing the mountains are. It's just not possible to capture them on camera either though I did try.. I thought that because we grew up with the Rockies in the background I'd be hard pressed to be awed by another mountain range, I wasn't really by the Alps when we were in Switzerland. But the Himalayan mountains are something else. In part I think it's because of how dynamic they are, there are peaks and valleys everywhere rather than a more consistent line. Or maybe it only seems that way because I'm right in the middle of them, but I don't think so, it's completely different than our mountains at home. Another thing is how the mountains have been tamed. There are settlements and farms carved into every hillside that you can see. I think that's what amazes me the most: the sheer durability and resilience of the people who have made these mountains their own.

      The senior School is much larger than the basic school I've been at. It has two levels and probably 30 classes? There were a ton of people there. There's also a couple small markets carrying the basics that people might need such as soap, notebooks, snacks, shoes, etc. The festival itself was very similar to the one our school had to celebrate it's anniversary. There were 3 different groups that danced: one traditional with two girls, one more modern with four boys, and a lovers dance with two boys and two girls. The students doing the traditional dancing were older than our students and a bit more fluid and synchronized with their movements. Both were lovely though! I really enjoyed the dance by the boys, they just had so much energy and creativity. I can't think of what to compare the dancing to, but it was like something you'd see in a music video but to Nepali music. The lovers dance was super cute, and it looked like the couples preforming it were slightly nervous which made it even better. It was a slower dance and was more similar to dancing we know at home with partners moving together as one rather than two separate people doing the same dance. The dancing is definitely a highlight of these festivals for me considering that I can't understand anything else. I am starting to differentiate between words now and can pick out words and recognize sentence structure but I don't know what any of the words mean! Which means I still haven't a clue about what they're speaking about.

      During the festival there was a man dancing in the background to all the student performances who appeared a bit... Off his rocker. He later approached me and starting talking to me about things and then said that he likes me, loves me, wants to marry me. I would have been uncomfortable had Bobita not been sitting right next to me laughing. She later explained that he's just "mad" and not to pay any attention to him. It was entertaining at least I suppose! On the walk home I received a second offer from a different gentleman (who was also joking as he's married and has grandchildren) to marry. I'm beginning to think it's a common theme because of our limited language skills; every woman I meet also asks if I am married. I didn't walk home with Bobita, but with another woman from the village and when we reached her home she offered me tea and water. Her children are students at the school so we tried to talk a bit but my Nepali sucks! From her house I somehow made it home... It was a new route for me and by some miracle, or a better sense of direction than I thought I had, I made it home first try, picking all the correct paths at forks. That was kind of fun though! Maybe I'll start exploring a bit more around here. The only worry I have is accidentally ending up in someone's yard. When I was walking with the locals we wandered through so many random people's properties, and I do see random people pass through our property too, but alone I wouldn't be comfortable doing it.

      I made it back from the festival later than normal, and Beda and Bobita followed shortly afterwards. Bobita from the festival and Beda from town. Bobita had a couple friends over for dinner and she made rice pudding again yum! Beda had gone to town and bought some chicken and some Nepalese wine. After dinner Bobita went down to the village to a friends house and Beda, one of his friends, and myself shared some of the wine. And for anyone considering trying Nepalese wine in the future, it is not wine as we know it! Oh boy that has a kick. He bought it direct from the person who makes it and it came in a big plastic bottle with no label. It was fresh so it was warm when we were first drinking it and I think I actually prefer it that way strangely.. To drink Nepalese wine you must also have some snacks that you eat along with it, "slowly slowly" so that the wine doesn't hit you as hard I presume. We had some carrots, spinach, and chicken as our snacks. And while snacking you talk. The card games came after the eating and drinking was done. Apparently, they usually play for money but because I'm learning we skipped it. Thankfully.

      Anyway, back to the wine. It's not wine as we know it, it's made from millet and the percentage is somewhere between 20 and 30 I think. The taste is different. Reminded me of a cross between Grappa and Sake. Maybe with some hints of Port in there... For those of you who know me, none of those drinks are something I enjoy the taste of, but I preservered and began to enjoy the taste after the first cup was finished ;) Thankful for those afternoons of Scotch tasting right now! Didn't enjoy that either at first and now love it soooo maybe this will be the same. But, because you have to walk over an hour one way to get the wine and then carry it up, I can't imagine that it'll be a common occurrence. But, the evening was quite nice and relaxing! Definitely much needed. Reminded me of home and hanging out at the kitchen table just having a good time..
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    • Päivä 3

      Kathmandu — Besisahar — Nagdi

      31. lokakuuta 2022, Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Moiniii,

      Der Tag beginnt um 5:20. Wir werden von Bikash abgeholt und machen uns auf dem Weg nach Besisahar. Total überwältigend wie schön und dreckig Kathmandu zugleich ist. Wir streifen so oft unser Schlauchtuch über unsere Nasen, um den Staub und den Gestank von uns fernzuhalten. Nachdem wir bei einem von Bikash Spezln nen Zwischenstopp für überraschend guten Kaffee gemacht hatten, genießen wir den ersten Ausblick auf das Himalaya Gebirge und merken wie wir jetzt schon nicht mehr aus dem Staunen rauskommen.

      Die Straße in Richtung Besisahar verläuft bis auf den üblichen Wahnsinn mit Überholen bei entgegenkommenden Gegenverkehr total smooth. Man muss sich natürlich mit einem Hupen anmelden und dann scheint alles zu laufen. Easy peasy. Bikash regelt das ganze schon. Gurte gibt es nur für den Fahrer und Bikash Fahrertürschloss funktioniert nicht so wirklich. Das finden wir raus als beim Überholen seine Tür in den Gegenverkehr schwingt und er sie mit — ausgesprochen guten — Reflexen noch an sich ziehen kann.

      Wir gehen mit Bikash lunchen. Typische Talkali Küche. Gegessen wir natürlich mit den Händen. Er lacht sich schlapp als ich die Chilli esse und fast daran sterbe. Läuft. Wenigstens er hat Spaß. Kurz vor Besisahar sehen wir erneut das Himalaya Gebirge und leck-o mio ist das wunderschön. Mehrfache Stops zum Foto-Tourismus sind aus dem Pflichtprogramm. Bikash ist mega Verständnis voll und für 12.000 NPR (circa 100€) für ne 7 Stunden Fahrt ist das alles natürlich inclusive. Er gibt uns Tipps und Erzählt uns über Politik, Geschichte und seine Zwangsheirat. Generell ne super intime Beziehung. Ich werde ihn auf jeden Fall wieder anrufen und mir ne Führung durch Kathmandu geben lassen, wenn ich wieder dort angekommen bin. BTW hat Bikash die Fahrt total unterschätzt und statt 3-4 brauchen wir eher 7 Stunden mit kurzer Off-road action in seinem angeschlagenen Ford. So hat er sich das nicht so wirklich vorgestellt. Aber mei. So ist das halt.

      Angekommen in Besisahar beginnen wir den Track und werden von Raj auf den „richtigen“ von ihm markieren Track hingewiesen. Rot-Weiß. Wie in den Alpen. Dem sollen wir Folgen und das machen wir auch und wir werden nicht enttäuscht. Gefühlt laufen wir alleine von Besisahar nach Nadgi. Die neue Jeep Straße verläuft bis nach Manang und viele der Teehäuser in den niedrigeren Regionen machen kein Geschäft mehr. Wir wollten das ganze unterstützen und natürlich den ganzen Track laufen und haben es nicht bereut. Massiv schöne Reisfelder. Diesige Blicke auf verträume Berge. Reißende Flüsse mit Bergpanorama. Unfassbar und selbst die Bilder werden ganzen nicht gerecht. Wir laufen mit Zwischenstopp in Bhulbule circa 4 Stunden bis nach Nadgi. Wir treffen Raj wieder und teilen uns ne Fanta und er gibt uns ein bisschen Geschichtsunterricht. Es ist schon absurd wie viele coole Leute wir in so unfassbar kurzer Zeit treffen.

      Das Highlight war der Blutrote Himalaya als wir zu Thomas und Julia ins Roshani Guest House gelaufen sind. Die beiden sind total entspannt und wir setzen unsere Reise mit Ihnen morgen nach Jagat fort. Wir haben die Besitzerin kennengelernt und mit ihr noch 2-3 Bier getrunken. Sie hat uns Ihre Lebensgeschichte erzählt und geschwärmt von Europa und ihrer Zeit dort. Das ist alles total schön und so traurig zugleich. Immens viele Eindrücke die verarbeitet werden wollen. Mir fehlt aber irgendwie die Zeit, weil ständig so viel passiert.

      Jetzt liegt ich im Bett und schreib unter meinem Moskitonetz den Eintrag und alle um uns herum erfreuen sich an Clemens schnarchen. Ich bin zumindest mit meinem Leiden nicht alleine. Es war ein unfassbar unverlässlicher, erster Tag auf dem Annapurna Circuit. Ich bin wirklich dankbar für jede Minute hier.
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    • Päivä 308

      Annapurna Trek: Erste Etappe

      4. toukokuuta 2022, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Endlich geht es los! Nach dem schlechtesten Frühstück der Welt (s. letzter Eintrag) und zahlreichen emotionalen Verstimmungen nach krampfhaften Versuchen meinen Rucksack zu packen, gehe ich das erste Stück des Annapurna Circuit, dem vermutlich populärsten Rund-Trek durch den Himalaya in Nepal. Es existieren auch andere Treks, aber dieser ist vermutlich auch der mit der besten Infrastruktur. Himalaya für Anfänger. Bis auf 5000 Meter geht diese Rundwanderung. Ich habe keine Ahnung ob ich es einmal herum schaffe, oder wie weit ich komme. "Versuch es einfach mal, flüstert das Herz".

      Nach ungefähr 500 Metern schreien meine Hüften "AUA! Das reicht jetzt!", und meine Schulter "GENAU!", und erinnern mich daran, dass ich seit Jahren keinen Sport mehr gemacht habe, und seit November abgesehen von ein paar kleinen Jogging-Runden in Schweden hauptsächlich mit der Katze auf dem Sofa gekuschelt habe😅.
      Mein Rucksack wiegt 100 Kilogramm. Der Umrechnungskurs zwischen dem echten Gewicht und dem "Scheiße, das schaffe ich doch nie!"- Gewicht beträgt ca. 10:1.

      Die erste Etappe ist nicht besonders schön, aber das ist Jammern auf hohem Niveau. Die Berge sind bereits hier sehr schön, ein bisschen ähnlich wie Norwegen habe ich heute gedacht, nur hellere Farben, tropische rote Böden, exotische Pflanzen (riesige Bambus z.B), und natürlich ist es viel heißer und die Wolken hüllen das ganze irgendwie mystisch ein. Die Sonne steht fast senkrecht über mir im Zenit, und es ist schwierig einen Schatten zum ausruhen zu finden.

      Aber die Baumaschinen der Chinesen, die im Fluss fast über die gesamte Strecke dieser Etappe Steine zertrümmern, sind ziemlich verstörend. Ich habe der Versuchung widerstanden, das Stück mit einem Motorrad Taxi zu überspringen, weil es keine Versuchung war. Ich will jetzt zu Fuß gehen. Dabei habe ich mich zweimal verlaufen, aber beide Male gab es aufmerksame Einheimische, die mich darauf aufmerksam machten (bzw. versuchten, auf Nepalesisch, bis ich es irgendwann gecheckt habe).

      Da habe ich großes Glück gehabt, denn wäre ich weitergelaufen, hätte ich in große Schwierigkeiten geraten können. Ich habe nämlich die "Jeep Strecke" genommen habe, auf der viele Stunden keine Unterkunft mehr gekommen wäre, da die Wanderer auf der anderen Flusseite gehen. Das macht mir ehrlich gesagt Angst, da ich alleine bin und mich frage ob ich eigentlich gut genug vorbereitet bin. Auf einen Guide habe ich verzichtet, weil dieser Trek so populär ist, man also viele Menschen trifft.

      Heute habe ich mir ein ganz tolles Zimmer geleistet, in einer wunderschönen Lodge, und ich freue mich auf morgen.

      Nachtrag: ich bin auch einfach zu dumm für diese Welt manchmal. Wäre ich nicht zu faul gewesen mal meine Karte rauszuholen, dann hätte ich gewusst auf welcher Flusseite ich gehen muss. Habe google maps benutzt und so ne kleine Broschüre, und dachte mir: was soll schon passieren hier unten am Anfang ...

      Oder wie Forrest Gump einst sagte:
      Stupid is, who stupid does🙄.

      Ab morgen nehme ich es wohl lieber ein bisschen ernster dass ich gerade in den Himalaya latsche, und benutze zumindest meine Karte...Herr Diplom-Geograph😣
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    • Päivä 10

      Annapurna day 2- Jaget to Dharapani

      23. maaliskuuta 2022, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      את הלילה הראשון העברנו בשינה בליינרים אחרי סיפורים מקסימים מצד נדב לפני השינה על סקאביאס. מי ידע שזו תהיה נקודת תפנית כזו מרכזית באופן השינה שלנו לאורך כל הטיול.
      בבוקר בעלי הגאסט האוס הלכו לקנות לנו ביצים לחבילות והגישו ארוחת בוקר משביעה ומלאה בלחם טיבטי (סופגנייה שטוחה).
      יצאנו לדרכנו הראשונה שבעים ומלאי כוחות והתרגשות.
      את תחילת המסלול עד טל עשינו בתוך איזור מעט טרופי שבאופן מפתיע גדל שם המון קנאביס.
      מלווים על ידי הנהר, מוקפים ביערות וכל כמה דקות מתגלה אלינו מפל יפה יותר מהשני.
      אפילו עצרנו לטבול באחד מהם בדרכנו במים קפואים וצלולים.
      לאחר מכן המשכנו בחלק האחרון של העלייה והגענו טל. שם גילינו שיושב הבית ספר של הילדים שגרים בכפר ממנו יצאנו שעתיים קודם לכן.
      עקב הסיפורים הרבים על מטיילים שישנים טל הופתענו לראות כפר באמצע משטח חלוקי נחל. מסתבר שבעונת המונסון כל איזור הכפר הופך לנהר ומתמלא מים וכל תושביו עוברים מקום מגורים וחוזרים כשנגמר עונת המונסון.
      אולי כי רק עכשיו נגמרה, אולי זה ככה תמיד אבל הכפר היה מוכה מהמונסונים. בתים רבים היו הרוסים והוסטלים היו נטושים או נבנו מחדש.
      לאחר עצירה קצרה שם מלאת התפעלות על אורח החיים השונה המשכנו משם Dharapani.
      ההליכה הייתה בעיקר על דרך ג’יפים שלעיתים הוצפה במים ממפלים שהוצפו ועברו על השבילים. גשם קל החל לרדת ורק הוסיף לחוויה
      לבסוף הלכנו לישון מול נופי ההימלאיה ולרחש הנהר.
      Lue lisää

    • Päivä 4

      10h Horror Busfahrt

      15. elokuuta 2022, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Heute morgen hatten wir einen strikten Ablauf: 6 Uhr Wecker, 6:30 Uhr Abfahrt mit dem Taxi vom Hotel, 7 Uhr Abfahrt mit dem Mikrobus aus Kathmandu nach Besishahar. Vielleicht die schlimmste Busfahrt unseres Lebens - 7 Stunden sau eng, sau heiß, brutale Straßenverhältnisse. Endlich angekommen in Besishahar wurden wir direkt von den Locals in den nächsten Bus nach Bahundanda gewunken. OK STOPP - DAS war die schlimmste Fahrt ever!!😵‍💫 Endlich trafen wir zwei andere Trekker aus Neuseeland und England und konnten uns ein bisschen austauschen. Die Straßen wurden aber immer schlimmer. Wir kamen nur noch im Schritttempo über Steine, Löcher, Flüsse und Serpentinen voran. Gut, dass die Reifen so hoch waren, blöd dass es überhaupt keine Federung gab.😅 Wir bezogen unser erstes Tea House mit "Superb view". Die Aussicht ist wirklich spitze, die "hot shower" ist eher kalt und unser Zimmer sehr spartanisch. Morgen laufen wir dann endlich los! 🥾🥾Lue lisää

    • Päivä 3

      On the Road

      15. lokakuuta 2018, Nepal

      Heute ging es um 6:20 mit dem Taxi zur Busstation um einen Microbus nach Besisahar zu kriegen. Aufgrund von Feiertagen wollten aber auch alle Nepali in ihre Heimat und es gab stattdessen nur den langsameren Local Bus in groß. Dazu noch der Urlaubsstau und so war ich statt um 13:30 erst um 16:00 Uhr in Besisahar. Dank dem netten "Busmanager" habe ich zusammen mit einem spanischen Pärchen doch noch günstig einen Jeep für die Weiterfahrt bekommen, wenngleich auch nur bis Syange anstatt Chyamche. Dank einem ungeplanten Zwischenstopp in einer Werkstatt sind wir dann schon bei Dunkelheit zwei Stunden über Schlaglöcher gehüpft. Aber die erste Unterkunft wurde erreicht und am Abend konnte ich immerhin mein arg eingerostetet Spanisch mal wieder auffrischen. Und ab morgen wird gewandert!Lue lisää

    • Päivä 165

      Durch den Monsun...

      16. syyskuuta 2022, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Pokhara - Ghermu
      107 km / 2.876 hm
      Aktuelle Höhe: 1053 hm
      Gesamtstrecke: 8.623 km
      Gesamt-Hm: 73.460 hm
      Tag 165

      Der Morgen begrüßt mich wie erwartet mit Dauerregen. Ich kehre der Hippiestadt Pokhara den Rücken, biege ab zu den Reisfeldern und folge Dorf für Dorf einer sehr steilen, aber asphaltierten Straße. Diese Gunst ändert sich allerdings wenig später schlagartig und von dort an bewege ich mich, bis auf ein paar Ausnahmen, auf groben und anspruchsvollen Schotterwegen, ebenfalls sehr steil. Der Weg fühlt sich an wie eine Achterbahnfahrt durch den Urwald. Es sind die tropischen Ausläufer des Himalaya. Leider bleibt mir der Blick auf die hohen Berge verwehrt, denn die Wolken hängen tief und der Regen inklusive der Luftfeuchtigkeit lassen meine Bilder leider verschwimmen. Die Dauernässe zeigt auch was sie mit dem Untergrund anrichten kann und verwandelt die Wege in Schlammlöcher, wadenhohe Bäche und Rutschpartien. Ich biege um eine Kurve und plötzlich endet die Straße in eine 100m tiefe Schlucht - wie mit der Guillotine wurde die Straße abgeschnitten. Da fehlen einfach 80m der Straße, weil der komplette Hang weggebrochen ist. Das Loch sieht aus, als wäre eine Meteorit eingeschlagen. 400 Meter zuvor gab es ein kleines Warnschild, dass auf eine Umleitung hinweist. Unvorstellbar, dass niemand auf die Idee kommt die Straße abzusperren. Die Umleitung bedeutet natürlich extra Kilo- und Höhenmeter. Ich durchquere heute ca. 50 Flüsse, die quer über die Straßen verlaufen. Immer wieder maltretiere ich den Antrieb. Zwischenzeitlich hat zumindest der Regen ausgesetzt. Gut, dass ich das Gepäck deutlich reduziert habe, denn selbst mit dem Leichtgewicht sind die Wege eine enorme Herausforderung. Die letzten paar Kilometer, die dann nochmal 3 Stunden gedauert haben, legen dann nochmal eine Schippe drauf: rauer Kies, lose Felsbrocken und Sand. Hier bewegt sichnur noch 4x4: Die Wanderer, die zum Start es Trekkingpfades gebracht werden überholen mich stets. Immer wieder sinken meine Räder tief ein und ich setze auf. Die Gänge springen, weil überall Matsch klebt. Leider keine Zeit für Fotos, denn die Dämmerung und der heftige Regen verlangen mir am Ende nochmal einiges ab. Der Anstieg hört einfach nicht auf. Ich sehe durch die Brille kaum noch die Steine und Wasserlöcher. Und dann endlich erreiche ich gegen 18 Uhr das anvisierte Guesthouse von Tag 2 der vorgegebenen Route - 1 Tag konnte ich heut also schon mal sparen. Dafür stimmen die Höhenmeteangaben mal so garnicht, fast 1000hm mehr, ohne den Umweg. Quintessenz: krass, was die Wege mir und dem Rad abverlangen - und die Trails haben noch nicht begonnenen. Bevor es Morgen weitergeht, müssen erst noch das Rad geputzt und alle Schrauben gecheckt werden - das wird wohl die Routine für die nächsten Tage.Lue lisää

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