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  • Day 89

    Cordially Córdoba

    December 1, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Granada train station under renovation so we took a bus (hour or so) to Antequera Santa Anna - a train station on the way to Cordoba, which is presumably a sort of junction. Had coffee and donut and ate our sandwiches in the one hour wait. Then a 40 minute train (the high speed AVE one). A twenty minute walk and we arrived at our place.

    Then headed out for a wander through the surrounding Jewish quarter and historic area. Saw one of only 3 remaining synagogues in Spain. In it's long history, it went from being a synagogue (possibly built for the private use of a wealthy man), to being a hospital for rabies victims when the Jewish people were expelled from the kingdom. From hospital to a community centre and chapel under the ownership of the Shoemakers Guild. In 1885 it became a national monument. It was beautiful.

    Saw an Inquisition and Torture museum, which was quite disturbing. Basically just torture devices and their descriptions - a bit nauseating but worthwhile to see for hammering home the harsh realities of the Inquisition.

    Looked through some shops and stuff and saw some Christmas markets including some cool kids rides. Stopped for some/too many drinks and tapas. Tried vermouth - was OK. Tinto de verano still excellent.

    Stopped by supermarket just before closing and for Ferrero Rocher waffle and Kinder Bueno crepe from the Christmas market. Then home to bed!
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  • Day 86

    The Alhambra - Generalife Palace Gardens

    November 28, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Part Three: Generalife Palace & Gardens

    Our visit concluded after a short walk up to the Generalife Gardens. A lot of this area showed the different styles and forces that were in power. For example, one part was actually only created in the early nineteenth century, while others were claimed to be from the Muslim era (but were actually much more recent). Passed an example house on the way and we were struck by how similar it was in layout to the ruins of Greek and Roman houses we had seen in Italy (with the small rooms clustering around a central pool etc.). Also passed the old Islamic baths, which were interesting (and again similar to, or inspired by, Roman baths).

    The gardens themselves were quite nice – pretty. The audioguide was valuable in this part as it explained a lot more and told little stories, like about how the royals used to ride over to the gardens and then dismount in the “Courtyard of Dismounting” (although they used a steeper path than we did, which now doesn't exist). There was also a lawsuit that ran for 100 years, to do with who owned the gardens or nobles' rights or something.

    Then there were some inside rooms and another cool courtyard or two, similar in style to the Nasarid Palaces. We finished up with a nice walk down past some oleander plants (native to Granada and previously close to extinction until efforts were made to restore them) and through an avenue of cypress trees, with the autumn leaves falling around us. Lovely.

    But we were hungry, so grabbed emapanadas, a panini (in this case, more like a pizza sub), sweet treats (including the milhoja, similar to a custard square) and some tinto de verano in a 1.5L bottle. Relaxed at home to get up to date on the blog and do some reading (a book from the house we're in – Ghosts of Spain by Giles Tremlett – an interesting book looking at certain topical issues of Spain from the perspective of a British journalist who has settled in Madrid). Then a cheap kebab for dinner.
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  • Day 86

    The Alhambra - Alcazaba

    November 28, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Part Two: The Alcazaba

    The Alcazaba was the war fortress part of the complex, although not sure how much war it saw. The “reconquest” of Spain in 1492 by the “Catholic Monarchs” (Ferdinand and Isabella) ended more or less with the fall of Granada when the Catholic forces were peacefully let in to the Alhambra. Then they went about kicking out the Jews and Muslims from Spain and demolished parts of the Alhambra (amongst many other things).

    Anyway the Alcazaba part was cool – a few different towers with great views. Three walls in a terrace formation (the roads between the walls were for different purposes). The highest tower the watchtower had a bell on it for telling people when to water their gardens and for ringing in case of attack. There were also the knee-high (presumably partly reconstructed) remains of the military quarters – very tiny rooms!

    One highlight was at the southern end – the rampart gardens. The ramparts were originally for, you know, artillery and stuff, but then they weren't fighting more wars so they just put some gardens on there. Quite nice and peaceful and odd to see on top of a castle wall!
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  • Day 86

    The Alhambra - Nasrid Palaces

    November 28, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Visited Alhambra today - photos and text to follow in three parts.

    Part One: Palacios Nazares

    After a medium walk uphill to the Alhambra complex, we picked up audioguides and lined up for our 11.30 time slot to see the Palaces. Lots of people inside (there's a limit per half hour), so there it was a bit crowded but not too bad.

    Inside the palaces were quite nice - a lot of very fine and detailed decoration on the walls. Audioguide was moderately interesting for providing some more context. Quite a few walls had mosaics and often arabic inscriptions - the audioguide read some of these out which were pretty odd taken out of context.

    Some interesting arches and ceilings, some quite ornate with domes and odd but pretty shapes. Overall quite enjoyable.
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  • Day 85

    Paragliding Over Mountains II

    November 27, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    After our little flying adventure, we caught the bus back into town. Got some nice bread from a little bakery and stopped by a supermarket. Wandered around the new town a bit more. Home for some relaxing (and to clean dog poo off shoe - the stereotype about Spaniards being relaxed about whether to scoop poop or not is sadly true, so it's eyes to the ground at all times).

    Then went back out to pick up Alhambra tickets to make tomorrow easier. Stopped in for a drink (beer and tinto verano) and plate of fried, battered seafood. As it's a tapas place we also got a free small plate of battered whole prawns - quite nice. And the seafood plate (anchovies, fish fillet chunks, squid and shelled prawns) was really good.

    More evening wandering (town coming much more alive and many more shops open than there were at 3-4pm). Had a Spanish tortilla - kind of like a quiche of potato and eggs but different. Really yum and super cheap. Did some window shopping, and stopped by a boardgame shop (Wade may have a problem). Then past the giant Christmas tree made of lights on the way back home.
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  • Day 85

    Paragliding Over Mountains

    November 27, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Went tandem paragliding with the awesome Gran Altura guys today (only day during our stay we had good enough weather for it too). Got picked up and taken to the Sierra Nevada mountains near Cenes de la Vega. Drove past a quarry along a rickety road and ended up with great views. Went for a little walk while we waited for some other paragliders from Belgium to take off (patience while waiting for the right conditions is apparently a key skill for pilots).

    Then got strapped into harness and it was off with a running start over a terrifyingly high cliff edge.... and into the air! Floated over the Sierra Nevada mountains and valleys. Radi's trip was longer - she got thermals and got higher and was able to steer and did some midair acrobatics (a bit nausea-inducing but awesome). Wade had a shorter trip as he's "fat" and more importantly missed out on the thermals, but still thoroughly enjoyed it. Amazing and so much fun! A truly surreal experience.
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  • Day 84

    Aground in Granada

    November 26, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Woke up at 5 am and made it to airport. Lounge was great - lots of food and drink. Flew to Palma de Mallorca for an hour and then next flight to Granada. Granada airport reminded us a lot of Dunedin airport randomly - similar size and layout, rural setting and we even walked across the tarmac to the terminal in the same orientation. Took the bus to town (there's one bus that leaves after each flight - that's how quiet it is comparatively).

    Arrived and walked uphill through some cute little narrow lanes to our accomodation in Albaicin. House was still being cleaned so we chatted with our very friendly hosts and went for lunch in a nearby plaza. Had a beer and tinto de verano (like sangria - delicious), so got a free tapa of Russian salad (potato salad). Had deep fried anchovies (good but not as good as in Italy) and a paella (OK).

    Back to our accomodation to relax and plan out our stay. Then popped out into the winding maze of streets to grab kebabs and baklava. Checked out Calle Alcaiceria on the way - it's all that is left of what once was the Alcaiceria (the great bazaar markets of Granada). A fire destroyed the original bazaar (which had over 200 shops) in the 19th century. Definitely had the Arabic market place atmosphere to it.

    Really liking Granada so far (and definitely enjoying our rooftop terrace with views of Alhambra and the city).
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  • Day 83

    Parc Guell

    November 25, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Late start and went to Parc Guell (an aristocratic park designed by Antoni Gaudi).

    Was OK (we were a bit tired so may not have fully appreciated it's splendor). The park surrounding the monumental area was nice, the monumental area (which requires booking and payment to get in) itself was smaller. Looked nice and the number of columns on one part was impressive, as was the portico. Overall though felt a bit over hyped and was way too many people there (especially for low season).

    Walked around and explored a bit more of Barcelona after. Did some window shopping. Ate various things, nothing too exciting. Saw some graffiti that was highly complementary to tourists (#sarcasm).

    Went home and packed.
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  • Day 82

    Montserrat Monastery

    November 24, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Day trip to Montserrat Monastery today. An hour and a half each way, plus 25min ish for the cable car up the mountain. Cable car was cool and only slightly terrifying.

    The abbey and Basilica are set amongst the rocks of the Monserrat mountains. The monastery began in the 10th century, and still functions as a monastery today (there are roughly 80 monks in residence). It celebrated 1000 years of existence in 1880. Interesting history - it was burned down and sacked by Napoleon's troops twice, and violently suppressed during the Spanish Civil War. It became a safe haven for scholars, students, artists and politicians during Franco's reign - and as a result became a symbol for Catalan nationalism.

    The Basilica is impressive and gilt and golden and ornate - but really seems like missing the point when you have such natural beauty around. Lot of tourists even in the off season. Not a tourist trap or terrible experience by any means but still felt a bit disingenuous. Heard the boys choir sing in the church - which was nice enough.

    Nature and surrounds were beautiful. There were several hiking paths. We did one walk (Santa Cova) which was pretty cool - the cliff face had religious art, the other side beautiful natural views. The church of Santa Cova at the end was definitely lovely, small and built into the rock face. Very peaceful.

    Then came home (had to stand for the one hour train back) and had takeaway pasta (from the same place yet again). Overall a good enough, if somewhat underwhelming day.
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  • Day 81

    Super Fun Sagrada Familia

    November 23, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Woke up a little late so scrapped our day trip plans and instead went for a visit to the Sagrada Familia cathedral. And very glad we did - was awesome. In short, it was stunning - definitely something you can't miss in Barcelona and just a wonder to behold. Very inspiring vision! Best cathedral we've seen (and we've seen a fair few at this point).

    Work started on the cathedral in 1882 and a year later, the 29 year old Antoni Gaudi took over and redesigned all the plans (he switched from the previous architect's run of the mill neo-Gothic plan to his original design). It's still under construction but expected to be finished in 2026, the centenary of Gaudi's death by tram. Really impressive that they're able to continue his work - especially considering how some of his plaster models and drafts got destroyed by bombing during the civil war.

    We went up the Nativity tower which was really nice, and got the audioguide which we'd also recommend - it explained a lot of the symbolism (every feature was both functional and symbolic) and we didn't feel the need for a guide.

    The two complete facades (Passion and Nativity) were impressive in the detail and number of sculptures. Inside was a breathtaking space filled with light and colour and air (inspired by forests). Gaudi was inspired by nature and used some revolutionary concepts and features in the building.

    Wade also bought a cool Sagrada Familia coin from the museum (he's been wanting a cool coin for a while now).

    Beautiful inside and out - was amazing. Afterwards we ate some empanadas and ramen (different places) and Wade got a haircut.
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