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  • Day 79

    Bienvenido to Barcelona!

    November 21, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Landed in Barcelona (3 countries in a day)! Bus to centre was cheap and easy and quick. Then decided to forgo the metro and just walk to our accomodation. May have underestimated the distance (considering we were carrying our packs). So got a bit hot but was nice views of some of the Gaudi buildings. Nice wide streets - quite different so far from Italy.

    Got settled in and then wandered through the neighbourhood to get groceries. Got nice bread, blue cheese, non disgusting cheese (Wade's not a blue cheese fan), pate, wine and then some takeaway pasta and filled mushrooms and eggplant. Dinner was really good - might end up there again later!
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  • Day 79

    Lounging Around in Brussels

    November 21, 2017 in Belgium ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Super early start today - wake up call for 3.50am. Checked out by 4.15am and on the bus at 4.35am (had 15min waiting in cold as there are both shuttles and buses going to the airport, and we had the ticket for the slightly later bus).

    Hotel gave us a packed breakfast, which was... edible. Understandably, no lounge open at Venice airport as it was too early. Got on our plane for a 2 hour flight to Brussels, with 4-5 hours to kill before connection to Barcelona.

    Got to Brussels airport and hurrah for a good lounge with no time limit. Spent almost four hours here, just relaxing and eating and using wifi. Nice bread, nice beer and really nice snacks.

    Seriously loving having our Diners Club cards - would highly recommend for anyone going to more than 2 international airports in 6 months.

    Then a quick flight to Barcelona (see next post).
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  • Day 78

    Vení, Vidi, Vici... Venezia

    November 20, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    Title translation: I came, I saw, I conquered... Venice. Jokes! We obviously didn't conquer it... we only had one day and Rome wasn't built in a day. Wait. We're mixing metaphors here, let's just get to the usual stuff.

    Got up at 7 am - very impressive for us. Breakfast at the hotel buffet (they had a large range of sweet pastries... odd but delicious). Then wandered through the streets of Venice.

    Made our way to Saint Marks Plaza - a lot of people but not too crazy and definitely better than the hordes we'd heard of. Small line for the free St Marks Basilica - moved through quickly and was interesting to see from the inside (very glamorous frescoes).

    Then over to the Doge's Palace - bit pricey at NZD $35 each but worth it.

    The Doge was the Duke of Venice and ruled over the city with various councils of noblemen etc. Very important guy, especially with Venice being such a rich and powerful city (they had impressive ship prowess which allowed them to be great traders and merchants). His palace was the seat of governmental power (basically the Beehive of Venice... except way wayyyyy fancier than the Beehive). The Doge couldn't leave the palace without certain rituals and arrangements.

    The rooms flowed logically for touring and there were information panels (and we got an audioguide).

    Some regal looking rooms with old paintings and gold decoration adorning the walls. Various council rooms - some with secret entrances. There were also lion's head wall slots where people would post anonymous declarations to inform on each other. Part of the council was a kind of secret police/autocratic type council - so there was a lot of public fear of prosecution. Interesting.

    The armoury in particular was awesome - heaps of old but well preserved weapons. A bunch of swords all with different hilts - from simple s-shaped hilts to giant fancy ones, along with armour, crossbows and pikes.

    There were some prisons too - much more extensive than they first appear. Some very small doors which would not have been fun to be thrown through.

    The main attraction was the grand hall - very cool. A giant room absolutely covered with paintings on walls and ceilings - including the portraits of past Doges (apart from one guy who just has a black curtain painted for his portrait because of the whole he-committed-treason-and-was-beheaded thing). Really impressive room.

    Next room was the treasure room, with a special temporary exhibition hosting the Al-thani collection of Indian (and Indian inspired) jewels. It was seriously impressive. Some massive diamonds, and non-faceted (e.g. lumpy) emeralds, and sapphires - a crazy amount of wealth to have in one room. Also explained a bit about different aspects (like how India has a long tradition of having jewels and gold to show power and status, and used mostly larger uncut gems, before later adopting the Western style of having faceted but smaller gems).

    Also had swords and daggers and other random items made out of (white?!) jade and other materials. One cloth type thing that looked woven except actually it was made up of small diamonds and pearls and stuff. Crazy. Oh and a jade, emerald and ruby egg cup (for when you want a fancy breakfast but only have eggs).

    No photos allowed in the exhibit but was impressive.

    To top off the stellar time so far, we next saw some weird modern art thing about the port at Venice. Odd, confusing and basically 10 minutes of our life we'll never get back. But we did try to understand it - we're clearly just not smart enough to appreciate it. Oh well.

    Also briefly checked out some rooms with parts of the facades, which randomly also had an espresso machine exhibited in a glass case with absolutely no explanation. Still unsure why it was there...

    A great visit to the palace and would definitely recommend it.

    Wandered some more, tried on clothes and had a nice tomato and seafood pasta from Dal Moro. Then back to San Marco to go up the Bell Tower (elevator this time, no stairs) for great views. <Insert joke about Wade being the hunchback of Notre Dame/Venice here>

    Back down and more wandering. Considered getting a gondola, but was incredibly pricey - especially for a ride along randomly smelly canals. Instead wandered around and stopped for a coffee. Spotted the leaning tower of Venice. Then browsed some jewellery and stopped for more pasta - again the black ink and cuttlefish one and a delicious eggplant, tomato and ricotta one (Alla Norma). Can't remember the name of the place but it's on Calle Casera - was definitely the best (and cheapest) pasta we had in Venice.

    Got more cake on way back (pistachio cake... yum!) then packed and got an early ish night. Very early start tomorrow!
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  • Day 77

    Vista of Venice

    November 19, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    Checked out and got a 2 hour train to Venice (train was with Italo - nicest ride we've had in terms of comfort, although scenery was average).

    Hotel for this part as we only have one full day here, and then it's a super early flight on Tuesday. Checked in to the hotel, receptionist was lovely. Somehow managed to get a free upgrade to a nice room with a canopy bed.

    Rested and did some planning and then got bus tickets for Tuesday. Then it was off to find some dinner as the light faded. Walked to a pasta place that was cheap and OK (mushroom tagliatelle good, tricolor amitriciana OK). Followed by a cup of gelato from Grom. Was good.

    Browsed some shops on way there and back. Also stopped for more pasta as wasn't quite full. This one was cuttlefish in black venetian sauce. An inky black sauce and really nice fish (could've been like reconstructed fish but tasted nice and vaguely squid-ey). Surprisingly good.

    Overall liking Venice so far - haven't seen much but canals and streets are cute. Bit of a smell occasionally though, and not looking forward to the heaps of tourists and high prices we'll no doubt find tomorrow... but should be fun!
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  • Day 76

    Farewell Florence!

    November 18, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Made it out by noon and browsed some shops. Had coffee and a custard croissant (cheap and good). Browsed some more. Saw the main cathedral interior and the underneath crypts (really just a small exhibit showing some of the foundations).

    Cathedral was impressively big - very high ceilings inside and the frescoes on ceiling and stained glass windows were beautiful. The crypts were a little underwhelming - not much to them and did learn much. But was included with our 48 hour duomo ticket so all good. Skipped the bell tower as the line was pretty big, and you can't book a time like you can with the dome (the bell tower is at the other end of the cathedral and slightly shorter but you can go up and get a good view of the city that includes the dome itself).

    Visited the board game shop again but didn't buy anything. Walked back home for a quick rest then more wandering (mostly through the Oltr'arno area on the other side of the river). Looked at some jewellery on Ponte Vecchio but was out of our price range sadly. Had gelato. Was yum and cheap. Pizza slices for lunch. Had some birthday cupcakes too.

    Home again for a bit and then dinner at Pint of View. A craft beer place with burgers and Korean food. Had a rye IPA beer and Gin and Tonic with a burger and Korean fried chicken. Was quite good - burger would have done well in Wellington on a Plate.

    Home to pack and it's off to Venice tomorrow by train. Not the most exciting birthday but good fun. Have decided to delay celebrations to a more Wade-friendly location anyway! ☺
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  • Day 75

    The Boboli & Bardini Gardens

    November 17, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Had thought to do a day trip to Siena but woke up feeling off so decided against it. Hopefully we didn't miss too much (or we'll just have to come back and go another time 😁).

    Instead made it out for a late lunch of souvlaki - nice if a little salty. Then to Boboli and Bardini gardens (a few streets apart and one ticket will get you into both). Not super impressive as gardens go but was still nice just walking around in the sun (much warmer today - at times was tshirt weather). Great views from the top out over Florence. Cool statues but then we're not experts. Fort Belvedere was closed but would've been nice to see.

    Skipped the porcelain museum but did see the Buonalenti grotto - pretty cool if quite random with all the effort put in to make it look like a real cave.

    Got a Thai massage which we both needed and then grabbed some fresh  bread and biscotti for tomorrow's  breakfast and dinner for tonight (pasta, meatballs and eggplant - yum). Home to rest for our last full day in Florence.

    Italy is playing Argentina (rugby) at the stadium here tomorrow but think we'll give it a miss - a shame the ABs don't happen to be playing here. Will see how we go!
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  • Day 74

    The Duomo

    November 16, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Number two - the Duomo (cathedral and it's famous dome). Won't bore you with details but the story behind it is pretty interesting. They started the cathedral without knowing how to actually build the dome. The wool merchants' guild held a competition to find someone to figure out how to build the structure by posing the problem of making an egg stand upright on marble. The winner was Bruneschelli (who was actually a goldsmith, not an architect). He kept it secret so no one else knew how he was building the dome. Also there wouldn't have been enough wood in all of Tuscany for the scaffolding so he came up with newer, better styles of scaffolding. Clever guy!

    Got our tickets and got in line - again wasn't really long because our tickets were for the 4pm slot so was fine. Inside was nice in the brief glimpses we got. Then it was up a fair few narrow stairs to come out inside the dome and see the impressive frescoes and stained glass windows. Followed by more stairs (very narrow and required Wade to stoop in parts - Radi had no problems) and finally we made it out to the top of the dome.

    Amazing. The views over Florence were stunning. Sunny day (was warmer than it has been) and just great views from being up so high, made the experience awesome.

    Also visited the Baptistry - a smaller eight sided dome like church behind the main cathedral. Also very impressive looking up at the painted frescoes. Some of the images were a tad terrifying (eg. the devil with a half-eaten man sticking out its mouth). The rest was beautiful though - especially the depictions of the angels.

    Home time and got some average takeaway pizza. And some nice dessert from a bakery.
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  • Day 74

    The Uffizi

    November 16, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Decided to get into the tourist mode and check out the main sights in Florence.

    Number one - to the Uffizi! Waited in a very small (but unmoving) line with an electric sign saying it would be a 60/90min wait. Pondered spending the extra euro to go straight in, but once they actually let people in it was quick (had heard horror stories of the lines) - only ended up waiting 10/15ish minutes in total. Phwef.

    Wandered through at a medium pace and took 2 hours or so. Was happy without a tour or audio guide as we're hardly huge art buffs (plus the plaques accompanying each piece explained it in enough detail). Was nice to see paintings and sculptures and talk about the ones that stood out. Overall was pretty cool, we did slightly prefer the Louvre though (but that's just our opinion). Stopped half way through at the museum cafe for a coffee and mini tarts (expensive but good).

    Got a Christmas ornament in the gift shop and also saw temporary exhibitions on Leonardo's adoration of the magi and some Japanese screen art.

    Then went to Trattoria Mario (thanks for the recommendation Em and TK), to try some traditional Florentino steak - a big T bone cooked rare. Was nice but not the best we've had - the bits that were "overdone" (ie medium rare) were really good though. Bread and pasta (tomato rigatoni and polenta lasagne) were yum - also good that they gave us half portions so we could try both. And very reasonably priced! Enjoyed it.

    Then found a cute Christmas shop and picked up two more ornaments just because. Followed by gelato - we followed some internet tips for "artisan" gelato and were not disappointed (look for gelato that doesn't stack high and that is in covered steel containers to keep it cool). Was really good - best gelato we've had yet! Very creamy.

    Then on to the Duomo!
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  • Day 73

    Wednesday Wanderings

    November 15, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Saw the Ponte Vecchio bridge with its jewellery stores and the secret Vasari corridor. Wandered through the streets and Radi bought a cute jumper from Promod (a nice affordable french designer store).

    Bit cold so we got hot chocolates from the Lindt store. Radi's milk one was basically flowing chocolate (strangely slightly dark) and Wade's white one was like custard with some milk Choc - was nice. Found a board game store and had a quick look. They had the game we want but only in Italian unfortunately. We saw the Duomo - pretty impressive looking.

    Also saw some cool massive statues under an awning structure. Someone was busking nearby playing some great numbers. Made for a great impression.

    Stopped at Trattoria Boboli for dinner - pasta and wine and mushroom steak with beans as a side. Steak very good - nicely medium rare. Yum and quite reasonable.
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  • Day 71

    Freezing in Firenze

    November 13, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    Checked out of our Spello accommodation (sad face). Stopped at a cute little cafe for a coffee and a croissant (breakfast). One had a delicious custard inside. So good.

    Then wandered through the town towards station as it began to rain. We were planning on trying out the last of our hosts recommendations but it didn't open in time so had to go elsewhere. Problematic as by this point was raining steadily and we'd gone past all the open places. Eventually found a cafe without electricity so had some drab plain rosemary pizza. Luckily we'd also stopped earlier at a bakery for a weird sweet fennel hard donut (it was OK - didn't really know what we were ordering) and plain onion pizza (delicious). So we staved off hunger and waited for train.

    Journey was uneventful - drab weather so scenery was nice but avoided photos as wouldn't have looked great. Saw some hillside towns and went past a lake at one point. Beautifully set against the backdrop of some snow covered mountains.

    Arrived in Firenze (Florence) and decided it should be named Freeze-enze. Or something. Basically it was cold. Was a 20min or so walk to our place - glad to arrive.

    Apartment is nice so will get settled in. Indian for dinner which was good and cheap and delivered (odd way of packaging it up). Will take it easy tomorrow and aim to get out and about on Wednesday.
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