• Day 52

    Eat Shop Drop

    June 22, 2023 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 35 °C

    Full day in Bangkok for eats and shops. I headed to Thipsamui for bib gourmand pad Thai and it was really good. I got distracted and took the place a couple doors down for it though due to the line up. The other place Raan Jay Fai is also part of the Michelin recognition but the wait was hours. By the time I finished eating, the line had only moved 5 numbers and still 40 parties ahead of where I would’ve been.

    Next stop big gourmand mango sticky rice and Kor Pancit. The sticky rice is indeed fluffy but I’ve had sweeter mango. Still just a short walk and worth trying. Both food places where near Chinatown so I got a chance to briefly revisit old Bangkok - a striking but welcome difference to where I stayed this time around.

    Shopping next checking out Icon Siam and Asiatique. Bangkok sure knows its malls. Icon Siam is modern and super cool to wander through, the ground level is where you’ll find a faux floating market and souvenir shops as well as street food. A modern dining space is on level 6 where I had terrace views of the Chao Phraya from James Boulangerie.

    A fairly easy hop on the boat down river to Asiatique. I didn’t get a lot of time here last trip and didn’t stay too long this time as most stalls weren’t open yet since it is more of a night market despite the hours. Now that I have Grab I’m sure there’ll be a third visit. This year is Disney’s 100 here so the grounds have strongly been Disney-fied.

    Took a Grab back to the hotel and took care of laundry and more wandering in the neigbourhood to Terminal 21 before a scrub and massage at Viva Jiva Spa at Landmark Hotel. It was a really relaxing experience and the perfect end to a long trip.
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  • Day 51

    From Paro to Bangkok

    June 21, 2023 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 35 °C

    Travel day! Our group was split into 2 different flights. I’m the afternoon group and I realize that because we got in so early on day 1, I had the advantage of actually spending 10 days in Bhutan.

    The morning was lazy as we just went into town for last minute shopping before going to have rustic Bhutanese hot stone baths. Our bus pulled up to a farmhouse so the experience is probably as authentic as can be. My room had the wooden tub but you could clearly see how it protrudes through an outer wall where they can place additional hot stones. There is still sufficient privacy though as one would have to be obvious or make an effort to really peek in. It was definitely needed to help soothe our muscles from the hike.

    Paro airport is quite small and there were issues exchanging currency back before and after security. At least there’s a few shops and cafe inside to spend the last of your cash. Luckily we didn’t have too much after the bath.

    In Bangkok, smooth though stormy sailing to the hotel where a jacuzzi awaited in my hotel room.
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  • Day 50

    Hiking Tiger’s Nest Day 2

    June 20, 2023 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I rose early before 5 and decided to check out the scenery outside. We were told we could see a cloud blanket below us early in the morning around 530. Thankfully I went out early as the most rolled shortly after I took in the views. One of the other girls said it was a full blanket at 445 but she was feeling sick and didn’t take any photos.

    We began our descent after breakfast and light rain gave way to mist and then dryness. The hike wasn’t hard at all save for a couple of slippery spots and then the steep climb up to Tiger’s Nest itself. I was super thankful that I was able to borrow poles as it definitely made the effort easier. Some of the steps were really high so I had to use my arms quite a bit.

    The beauty of Tiger’s Nest is really incomparable to what you see in photos. In person you really appreciate the sheer cliff it is perched on and the deep gorge that you have to descend into before you ascend. Definitely the most challenging hike of the trip but we took as many breaks as needed.

    There are 4 temples in Tiger’s nest with most dedicated to the great Rinpoche who also meditated in a cave there. This site is also a pilgrimage site for Buddhists but it is hard to get to.

    Once we retraced our steps back to where we began our descent into the gorge the going was back to fairly easy descending which was good news as folks were starting to feel dizzy and light headed from fatigue, elevation and simply needing some sustenance in their system. I count myself lucky as I was ok, just tired from all the steps. We were so happy to see our bus in the car park after lunch. Did I mention some of the girls named the bus Bob?

    Back at the hotel, it was either some relaxing and showers or shopping. Before dinner we also got to watch some traditional dances by local students. It was really interesting and cool because these are normally performed during festivals.

    Tonight we had our final group dinner. As usual it was bittersweet as we bid see you layers to everyone. I’m glad we got along so well and hopefully we’ll remain connected and see each other again on future travels.

    I realize I’ve taken next to no food pictures on Bhutan. Not that the food isn’t good but it’s usually been buffet or family style where we pass the dishes around to share.
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  • Day 49

    Hiking Tiger’s Nest Day 1

    June 19, 2023 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Gearing up for our big hike to Tiger’s Nest. Today we climbed steady for much of the day to reach Bumdrak camp at 3860m. We began at an elevation of 2950m about a half hour drive from our hotel.

    The coniferous forest is absolutely beautiful. To conserve battery, I didn’t take too many pictures. One of the girls wasn’t feeling to well so those of us at the back took breaks as she needed which helped make the trek less strenuous. We also made friends with a few local dogs, one of which I named Paulo and it stuck even after we realized she was a girl.

    The camp itself is glamping, there were full on beds on the tents though facilities are basic and no showers. Some rodents got in so quite a few of us returned after dinner to find some items chewed up. For me that was my pants because I forgot about a chocolate wrapper in the pocket. Tomorrow one of the other girls would notice part of my mesh pocket on my bag had also been gnawed through.

    Early night and it rained but I was snug in bed with a hot water bottle aka mountain baby as the locals called it.
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  • Day 48

    Warm up hike

    June 18, 2023 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Drove up to 3988m on Dantak Road this morning near Paro this morning to hike to Kila Goempa Nunnery. We were in the clouds and descended to this nunnery that clings to a rock cliff.

    The hike isn’t too challenging and great way for us to get about moving at altitude. Scenery was beautiful with the alpine trees and other foliage. Our group stayed together really well, the first time in all my hikes where there was no big gap. Pace set by the CEO was great as we all kept up easily and no huffing/puffing.

    The nunnery is small but very hospital as we were given tea and crackers. It was really nice to visit though we saw very few nuns. It’s a meditation centre so a number of nuns were likely in isolation to meditate. They stay in those rooms for 3 years.

    After our visit we headed to Paro for lunch and shopping. There seems to be more store options here than Thimphu but I suppose it is more touristy with Tigers Nest nearby. I picked up most o f my souvenirs and just have jam/honey left to buy. Needed a little more time to go through the general stores as we went into practically every souvenir/handicraft store. Hopefully we can have a second round of shopping on the day we leave since we have afternoon flight (if not when we get back from Tigers Nest).

    Half of us then visited Kyichu temple one of the oldest in Bhutan. I think some of us are templed out. I kinda felt that way but ended up going and was rewarded by the small temple. This might be my favourite with flower courtyards and the small rooms inside.
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  • Day 47

    Mountain Drive

    June 17, 2023 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Not too much excitement today as we made a long drive to the picturesque Haa Valley. Our road had has backtracking to Thimphu and then beyond.

    Past Paro, the road turns challenging as locals are working to widen the existing road to Haa. This road used to be widely used for trade with Tibet before China took over that region.

    We did witness a cow jam which was pretty fun after lunch. I think it’s moments like these that open minded travellers find enjoyable to just be present.

    Haa Town has local shops so not much shopping but there are murals done by students in town. While wandering, I had a chance to chat with some locals as well and even learned a new game as I watched them play. It’s similar to snooker but played on a square table the size of a mahjong table where players try to sink their chips into opposite pockets.

    Our hotel for the night turned out to be the same place the monk minister of education was staying as he was to perform a blessing ceremony at the local military camp. We got to see what the welcome ceremony looked like and he blessed us as well.
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  • Day 46

    Exploring Punahka

    June 16, 2023 ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    It rained all night into this morning. I was a bit concerned as we were hiking to Khamsum Yueley Chorten, a stupa in the mountains. Fortunately the rain stopped on our drive.

    We started with a photo stop of Punakha Dzong, the admin centre for this area before heading to a suspension bridge to begin our hike. A little more challenging building us up for Tigers Nest but still very manageable.

    We walked through some rice paddies and Forest for about an hour to arrive to the stupa and had another lesson in Buddhism before climbing the three levels to the roof for 360 views.

    Coming back down we headed to a picturesque spot by the river for lunch. A local restaurant catered so tables, chairs and table cloths were set up.

    After lunch we headed back to the Dzong for a walk through and learned about Buddha’s life. Then an extended walk back to the hotel. It was really cool walking on another long suspension bridge and along the road.

    Before dinner we checked out the vegetable market in town across the river and walked around some of the shops. Nothing touristy but a trove of local alcohol available. I was so fixated on finding hard candy for tomorrow’s ride that I missed the lemongrass oil spray. Oops. Next town :)
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  • Day 45

    Onwards

    June 15, 2023 in Bhutan ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Visited the Gangtey Gonpa Monastery this morning and watched part of the monks prayers. The complex is also a school so the boys there are either in junior high or high school.

    After that, we headed to Punakha where we visited a nunnery and the fertility temple. It was really interested visiting the nunnery and asking questions. Most of the religious stuff goes over my head but I was curious about the cultural aspect considering we’d learned that girls inherited the assets before. This nun had 2 sisters so it wasn’t an issue. We also learned the king visits this nunnery as well as his grandfather was cremated there.

    To get the fertility temple, Chime Lhakhang, we walked through a village with rice paddies and phalluses. The phallus is the symbol of fertility here in Bhutan and there are numerous shops where you can pick phalluses of various sizes and colours. Some are even carved with faces.

    Our hotel tonight (River Valley) is located by the river and each of the rooms has a fantastic view. Across the river is the town that we’ll hopefully have time to visit tomorrow afternoon.
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  • Day 44

    Into the Valley

    June 14, 2023 in Bhutan ⋅ 🌫 11 °C

    We left Thimphu early this morning to continue our explorations. One of our stops was at a lookout which on a clear say, we could’ve seen the span of Bhutan against the backdrop of the Himalayas. Instead it was misty though the most lent to great photos. Also at the lookout was a collection of 108 stupas. It was really pretty crowded since several groups had converged.

    After lunch we went on a hike in the Phobjikha Valley. The scenery was stunning as we hiked along the trees. Being out of the van definitely enables us to take amazing pictures while being in the van, it was best to just look and enjoy.

    The hike itself was easy, really more of a stroll and a good warm up for our upcoming hikes. If only they were all like this hehe.

    One last stop for the day, the black neck crane centre to learn about the birds who migrate here every winter from Tibet.

    Our home for the night is a community home stay in the valley. The group used to be assigned to various houses but everyone now stays together in a building that G invested in. The rooms are beautiful and rustic, a wonderful surprise.
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  • Day 43

    Thimphu the capital

    June 13, 2023 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We took a city tour to visit a few of the sights, beginning with the zoo to see the takin which is the national animal. It’s a cross between a goat and an antelope. It’s less a zoo though and more of a rehabilitation centre so eventually release the takin.

    Next stop, Buddha Point where a 51m sitting Buddha can be seen kilometres across Thimphu. Once complete this will be the tallest sitting Buddha.

    National Memorial Chhorten next. This is a beautiful stupa where lots of elderly people visit and worship. We joined the circle to make the rounds for positive energy. The site is quite beautiful and definitely serene in its own way.

    Post Office Museum and markets in the afternoon. In Bhutan, you can print your face on stamps and the stamps are actually functional so you can put them on postcards to send home. There’s also a great collection for those who collect stamps. We then checked out the weekend market which is mostly fruit, veggies and yak cheese (though it wasn’t a weekend) before walking along the river.

    A little free time and then it was off to Tashichho Dzong which is where the king and the religious head work. The complex is beautiful and reminds me of places I’ve visited in Tibet. We arrived in time to watch the flag come down, signalling the end of the workday.
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