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Santas Martas

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    • Eagle Walkers in Spain
      Day 32

      Reliegos

      September 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

      Another 13.5 miles down the road, we had a great walk today, landed in the little town, will be in Leon soon and complete our 2nd stage of this journey. The mural on the house was spectacular last night right outside our Albergue. We have noticed in a few towns now that they have what look like sweaters on the trees, still not sure why but they are cute.Read more

    • Camino
      1
      12
      Day 33

      Reliegos (20.2km / 436.6km)

      May 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      Well! Today was a day of extremes. Where do I start …? I know, let’s start at the very beginning.
      A gorgeous sunrise, a cool but not cold morning and a flat, flat walk! The most noticeable things on the walk were the irrigation system which was amazing to see strongly flowing water on flat, flat land and …. Hmmmm. Ok, so there was one noticeable thing!

      There are a few photos which look similar but we’re miles apart. A road on the right, a pathway and trees to the left with fairly dry land on either side.
      The walk really gives you time to think because there is no dramatic scenery to distract you and that is a gift too.
      We checked in and did the usual admin and then walked around another town that died once farming became mechanised. Jane suggested we go to “Bar Elvis” and we were first there when it opened at 5pm. The owner was an eccentric Mexican who provided some entertainment in his own way, playing country music, songs from the 70’s and done modern upbeat Mexican music.
      He allows anyone to write on the walls or ceiling! A young Frenchman came in after a bad day. We were just about done with our beer when the “Crazy Canadian ladies” - all well into their 60’s arrived. Not a good combination with the eccentric Mexican! The rest is predictable! When I said “no thanks” to another beer they laughed us off and bought one anyway and we had to return the favour. Anyway, they are great fun and everyone had a laugh.
      We had to drink down our last beer quickly to make it back to dinner. There was only one other coupe there … a quiet, older French couple who had 9 kids …. As different as they were to the crazy Canadians, we had a lovely dinner!
      So a day of extremes but each contributed to a fabulous, memorable day.      Read more

    • WanderklebchenJakobsweg, Part 2
      Day 33

      32. Etappe: Reliegos (26,4 km)

      November 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

      Heute entschied ich mich für eine Variante des Jakobswegs auf der Calzada Romana. Nur ein einziger Ort lag zwischen Start und Ziel, dazwischen nur unendliche Weiten auf der vorletzten Etappe durch die Meseta.
      Es versprach ein sonniger und kurzer Pilgertag zu werden, so dass ich erst um 9 losging. Am Ortausgang bekam ich dann direkt Gesellschaft, von einer riesigen, äußerst dünnen, aber sehr freundlichen Hündin 🐶 Meine Versuche, sie zum Umkehren zu bewegen verliefen im Sande und als sie Roxy ein paar hundert Meter vor mir erblickte, war es komplett vorbei. Die Hündin folgte uns nun auf unserem Weg und tollte nebenbei mit Roxy auf der sonst so verlassenen alten römischen Straße. Währenddessen überlegten Nathalie und ich, wie wir das Problem wohl lösen könnten. Einen zweiten Hund mit auf Pilgerschaft nehmen kam nicht in Frage, auch wenn die Hündin ausgesprochen lieb und freundlich war. Wir beschlossen im nächsten Dorf Anwohner um Hilfe zu bitten und setzten unseren Weg erst einmal fort. Dann kreuzten zwei Rehe unseren Weg und Roxy schoss wie ein Blitz an mir vorbei, den Tieren hinterher. Die andere Hündin blieb davon äußerst unbeeindruckt - ein entlaufener Jagdhund wird sie also wohl nicht sein.
      Nach 8 km im Dorf angekommen, herrschte gähnende Leere auf den Straßen, so dass wir schon die Hoffnung verloren hatten. Bis zum Glück noch ein Wagen vom Agrar-Amt (oder etwas in der Art?) mit einem netten hilfsbereitem Mann anhielt. Nach mehren Telefonaten und Diskussion mit einem Dorfbewohner, der später vorbeikam, nahm er sich schließlich ganz dem freundlichen Tier an und wir konnten, nun wieder zu Dritt, weiterziehen. Beim Abschied hofften wir sehr, dass die Hündin wieder zurück in ihr Zuhause gebracht werden konnte oder bald ein neues schönes Heim findet 🐶🥰
      Mit etwas Verspätung setzten wir unsere Reise fort und ich merkte schon bald, dass das Loch in meinem Magen immer größer wurde. Das Frühstück bestand nur aus Keksen mit Marmelade, was natürlich nicht lang vorhält. Also wurde ich langsamer, was Roxy aufmerksam beobachtete und auf mich wartete, bis ich wieder aufgeschlossen hatte - nach dem gemeinsamen morgendlichen Erlebnis, gehörte ich wohl nun zu ihrem Rudel 😅
      Das Tempo konnte ich aber ohne neue Energie kaum halten, so dass ich sehr froh war, als die beiden für eine Rast stoppten und ich alleine langsamer weiterlief.
      In der öffentlichen Herberge am Zielort erwartete mich dann schon ein "neuer" Pilger - ein Deutscher "Wiederholungstäter", schon über 30 Mal ist er die unterschiedlichsten Jakobswege gelaufen. Wow! Da er in der Regel aber 40-50km am Tag zurücklegt, werden wir uns wohl nicht noch einmal begegnen.
      Später kehren dann noch Nathalie mit Roxy und Mick ein und wir plauschen beim Abendessen noch ein wenig über unsere heutigen Erlebnisse und weiteren Pläne. Das Essen dafür haben wir zuvor im örtlichen gut organisierten Mini-Mini-Supermarkt eingekauft, der ebenso von dem netten älteren Hospitaliero betrieben wird.
      Die Nacht verspricht wieder frisch zu werden, denn alle Heizungen sind aus. Aber das kenne ich ja schon von den letzten Tagen und hab mir vorsorglich gleich 2 Decken für die Nacht gesichert 😴      Read more

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    • TravelerSpain y el Camino
      Day 36

      Carrión-San Nicolás-Bercianos-Reliegos

      April 25 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

      First off, my feet are doing so much better. Thank you all for your prayers! While still tired and somewhat painful (especially a couple of new blisters), barring a new issue, I don’t think they’ll cut my walk short. I think this is the most days I’ve walked in a row without a rest day.

      Walking on the Spanish meseta, sometimes I forget where I am. It feels so familiar, so much like home. Until I walk over a small hill into a Spanish village or look north and see mountains (definitely don’t have those in Kansas!) It’s very evident that some of the villages are impoverished and likely wouldn’t exist if not for the Camino. In some places, cats far outnumber the children I see. There must’ve been a front blowing through- the wind was persistent and cold for a couple days before finally relenting. Feels like home!

      I’ve officially cross the halfway mark of the Camino. Yesterday I walked through Sahagún. Though it’s apparently a little past halfway, they claim the title and give out a certificate (for a few Euros). It’s crazy to think how far I’ve gone. In many ways I’ve settled into the routine of getting up, eat, walk, stop for coffee or food whenever available or when I desire, check into albergue, shower, laundry, groceries, sleep, repeat.

      So far today I’ve walked 363km since April 2, which is about 226 miles. I’ve bussed 45 miles thus far, though tomorrow I intend to take another bus about 15 miles into Leon- I’ve heard it’s a pretty boring walk. I’ve been amazed at what my body is capable of over the last few weeks. It’s a fun place to be. And at times when it’s hard, there are little notes of encouragement along the way (“que valiente eres”- how brave you are!)

      Just in the last few days I’ve started to think in terms of “when I finish the Camino” instead of “if I finish.” There are still hard days, but overall I’ve been enjoying myself. My mom encouraged me to let my mind rest- apparently it takes 3 weeks for me to get to that spot!      Read more

    • TravelerCamino de Santiago
      Day 25

      Stage 23: Calzadilla-Reliegos

      October 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      17.6 km/10.9 miles, 53°-69°, 5 hours
      That's a rather fast pace for me, and probably why the right foot is trying to convince me it's developing shin splints. Ice, elevation and ibuprofen are putting that idea to rest.
      I stayed in a lovely casa rural last night in the tiny town of Calzadilla de los Hermanillos where the hardworking husband and wife proprietors served us 4 guests a gorgeous dinner of local specialties made with fresh local ingredients including more vegetables than I've eaten the whole way.
      I walked out this morning with Kate from New York who kindly walked at my slow pace for the first 3 miles and the wonderful conversation and comradery made the flat farmland fly by. Then a fascinating woman from England came by and accompanied me to the turning to my stop for the day, as I was worried about missing it after yesterday. I think that's the longest I've walked with anyone and it was such a gift to help keep me going on this rather long featureless stretch with no services. The Camino provides!
      Tomorrow will be a long day, 15 miles into the city of León. If right foot is still cranky, I may take the bus the last 8 kms to avoid the trek on pavement through the industrial outskirts.      Read more

    • Julie RosenthalCamino Frances 2023
      111

      Day 27-El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla 18km

      September 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      I am sitting in the Mansilla Bus terminal right now waiting for the bus to Leon after walking 18km. I just missed the bus so I have to wait 2 hours before the next one, so I thought I might as well be productive and write my blog. Let me start at the beginning.

      I woke up in the middle of the night last night to go to the washroom and I had a brilliant idea. Why don’t I take the bus to Leon? The reason I want to get to Leon today is that my friend Christina is there right now and is leaving tomorrow. She is a couple days ahead of me on the walk. I thought about it and it is only 18km walk that I am missing and it is all along the highway, nothing of importance to see. I thought, life is about our connections, so if I go today, I can have dinner with her, then she will be off tomorrow and I will explore Leon.

      So, today I walked the 18km I was scheduled to walk and instead of finding a place to sleep, I am hopping on the bus. It is just as well. I can tell my body is ready for a rest day.

      Today was practically uneventful as yesterday, except when I burst into tears. I was walking along the road and thought I would put on some music. I looked at my playlists and I had the album “The Movie Album: As Time Goes By” by Neil Diamond. I smiled and thought, “ok, I will probably cry a bit but it will be nice to listen to this”. The reason it may be emotional is that I played this album over and over again when I was in the US just after meeting Jörg. Almost every song on the album is about love and I was falling in love with Jörg so they all had meaning.

      Some of the songs are
      Secret Love
      Can you Feel the Love Tonight
      Love with a Proper Stranger
      When you Wish Upon a Star
      Ebb Tide
      True Love
      Can’t Help Falling in Love

      Most of these brought smiles and a few tears, but mostly happy memories. I burst into sobbing snotty tears when Neil Diamond started singing “My Heart Will Go On”.

      Jörg is forever in my heart.

      Time to get ready for the bus ride. I will tell you all about my evening tomorrow.

      TTYL      Read more

    • TravelerWalking the Camino
      1
      1
      Day 18

      Mansilla de las Mulas

      July 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 95 °F

      On our trek to Mansilla, the meseta is transforming from endless dry wheat fields, to irrigated corn and cattle production. Photos: trees wrapped in afghans along the route, hug back!; Remnants of the old Roman wall fortress that surrounds Mansilla has been reinforced over the years and is 10 feet wide in some parts- 75 percent of the walls still remain; the arch that is the entrance to the city; tower that provides for the city's running water system; another church at daybreak. Finishing the evening comparing feet with a man from London and a woman from Italy. Their feet included bloody infections and blisters with threads running through them to help with drainage. I had nothing to compare to the carnage. So grateful for my strong, healthy feet. We trek to Leon, tomorrow, with the promise of cooler weather. Ojala.😊 Love to you all!Read more

    • TravelerCamino
      213
      Day 31

      Mansilla to Leon

      October 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      We are now in beautiful Leon and it seems such a change from the sleepy towns we have been in on the Meseta and we are enjoying the atmosphere.
      We had breakfast this morning in a cafe in Mansilla with quite an eclectic group of locals. It was amusing to see a group of men having some liqueur with their coffee , and then a tiny elderly woman come in and have a glass of beer. This was all before 8am!
      Last night we has a great walk around the old roman walls of Mansilla glowing the evening sun. We had a good pilgrim meal and slept well in the quiet town.
      I fear not a quiet night here as there is a festival on and we are right in the middle of town by the stunning gothic Cathedral which is a total standout with beautiful stained glass windows .After arriving in Leon and enjoying strolling through the twisting streets we had
      coffee in the main square and then a self guided tour through the Cathedral.
      The shops are very chic as is the architecture. Late lunch in the sun and a tour on a tourist tram around the main spots of Leon.
      It was so nice not to walk and could have sat on the tram all afternoon!
      Now it's siesta time and we are very much looking forward to meeting Vanessa Fiona Connor and Tim who have traveled all the way from Dublin to see us. Fun times ahead. We realise the All Blacks play tonight but I don't think many people in Leon will be watching!
      As I write this there is womans wrestling in the square! Brian of course has been down to have a look.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino
      Day 31

      Bercianos to Mansilla

      October 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      We awoke in surprisingly good health after a night of birthday celebrations for our Dutch friend Toon.
      Jane and I actually had to return a bottle of vino back to the bar as there was no way we were going to drink it. We did laugh as our friendly bar man who just put a cork in it and put it back on the shelf!
      We were all in good spirits as we set off an a 27km walk in yet another dark cool morning. The moon is dwindling in size so the mornings seem darker and of course the days are getting shorter.
      Today's walk was long and a tad tedious but the endless views of ploughed red dirt and dying sun flowers have some charm. We now can see the hills and mountains of Galicia and in the distance we could see Leon where we will be tomorrow.
      There were the usual chats and laughs along the way but sadly Lee realised he had left his beloved hat behind. He was very fond of his hat but Brian had a cap he could lend so on we marched.
      Coffee and a very filling breakfast came at about 10 km . A great big potato pancake/ omelet filled with ham and cheese. That certainly revived us for a long walk until the next stop 12 km away. Luckily there were beautiful plane trees and oaks to shade us partially and nice rest areas. The trees are starting to turn.
      Podcasts music and books though were definitely the order for the latter half of the day.
      Another stop in a tiny village for coffee's and then the last killer five to crack on with.
      It's always such relief when the town of your destination comes into view and then collapsing into the cool oasis of the hotel lobby.
      After booking in we went next door to a wonderful garden bar enjoying bread chorizo and cheese washed down with cold beers.
      Another day ticked off. Our 19th day of walking and 21st day on the trail.
      In the garden bar were a group of Spanish men having wine bread and cheese like us. We were not sure if they were Pilgrim or locals but they started singing Spanish folk songs to which Brian and Lee responded with Pokarekareana which they loved.
      Then it was siesta time.
      Apparently we walked today on the longest Roman road in Spain and we followed in the footsteps of Emporor Augustus!
      Mansilla is yet to be explored but has a medieval look and is like the Feilding of NZ , known for its livestock market.
      Wifi is dodgy here but hope I can put on the musical videos.
      Tomorrow we head to Leon and will be meet up with some of the Irish family and then brother Bill arrives. Happy days      Read more

    • WanderklebchenJakobsweg, Part 2
      12
      Day 34

      33. Etappe: Leon (24,5 km)

      November 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      Wie erwartet, war die Nacht verdammt kalt, aber trotzdem hab ich ausreichend Schlaf gekriegt. Fürs Frühstück hatte ich mich in dem kleinen Dorfladen ausreichend eingedeckt, so dass ich gut in den Tag starten konnte.
      Der Weg war heut nicht ganz so schön wie gestern, aber das ist immer so, wenn man sich auf große Städte zubewegt.
      Heut bin ich gaaanz mutig und kehre in der berühmt-berüchtigten Herberge des Benediktinerklosters ein. Bisher kann ich nicht klagen, es ist deutlich wärmer (schon fast zu heiß) als die letzten Tage (zum Glück, denn hier gibts keine Decken). Die Hospitalieros sind nett, haben meine Wäsche gewaschen & getrocknet und ich schlafe nur mit einer anderen Pilgerin in einem (zugegeben offenen) Raum. Hier trennt man nach Männern und Frauen und da es deutlichen Männerübehang gibt, müssen diese etwas enger beisammenrücken.
      Durch Zufall hab ich heut Lilli wiedergetroffen, die zwar im Hotel eingecheckt hat, aber hier in der Herberge ihre dreckigen Sachen wäscht. Wir gehen zusammen noch lecker Italienisch Essen und pünktlich kurz vor 10 bin ich dann wieder in der Herberge bevor die Tore geschlossen werden.      Read more

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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Santas Martas

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