Spanien
Spanien

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    • Dag 26

      A gentle day of walking

      I går, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      That’s about the best way to describe the 24 km, 300 m walk in the cool temps, partly sunny. It was just about perfect— leaving Lalín on the beautiful river walk, then merging onto the Camino Sanabrés in Laxe, finally seeing lots of others. I didn’t have rain or flooded paths, just long stretches of those Galician “green tunnels,” sometimes wide enough for a car to drive through, other times narrow and hemmed in by ancient moss covered stone walls. M

      I had snippets of conversations with about 5 or 6 people — a yoga teacher from the US, a German banker, a very young Swiss pilgrim, and several members of a self-described “posh camino” group who are spared no luxury or comfort (and I am not being critical, really).

      The highlights of this stage for me are the 10 C Taboada bridge and the 13 C church nearby, with a carving of Samson killing the lion (though I think the story is that he tore the lion apart with his bare hands, not that he lanced him from on top of a horse). The weather was nice, so I was able to sit and enjoy both spots. Lots of lollygagging today!

      I have some wiggle room to play around with over the next few days since I did a couple of longer days than I had anticipated. It will be fun to figure out.
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    • Dag 12

      Pamplona

      I går, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      Pamplona at our leisure and with so much to see spent the day walking around the city. The Santa Maria Cathedral which took 150 years to build was magnificent and a church of unbelievable beauty. A vibrant university city beautiful gardens and green spaces where deer peacocks and fowl roam freely. Tapas were on the menu again - black pudding/mushroom and pimentos pigs trotters and I’m not sure what else but they were delicious prosciutto goats cheese pimentos and zucchini and finished another big day with a cherry gelato. Such an incredible city popular for the running of the bulls Ernest Hemingway (The Sun Also Rises) and the Museum with Roman artifacts from the first century. It has been a day to remember.Läs mer

    • Dag 27

      Another spectacular walk - to Sahagun

      I går, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      We are debating whether this is the best walk so far, but I think the ones with panoramas from high places rate well too! But we have certainly had a wonderful day - 22 kms - 5° and misty when we set off at 8am, and by about 10.30 mist burnt off and it was sunny and perfect for the rest of the day, temperature rose to a comfortable 16° and I shed a fleece layer for the first time I think!

      Today’s meseta was undulating all the way and so beautiful with the green fields and wildflowers. Rachel and I identified wheat and barley with some difficulty, the crops look similar, but slightly different greens, and already they have the stems of grain visible, all with variations, and I’m always curious to know which is what. And to my delight I recognised a field as we approach Sahagun where twice before we have seen a man harvesting sunflowers. It is now ploughed and with furrows ready to be sown, so it confirms my theory that the fields everywhere which aren’t waving with grain crops are waiting and ready to be planted with sunflowers.

      We also passed, and paused, at the little Ermita about a km before entering Sahagun where we were immortalised by the Google map truck in 2013! It was such a beautiful day, unlike yesterday’s wind and threatening rain, that we took it easy and stopped for refreshments several times, often meeting people we have got to know who stay in the same places…some Americans, Canadians mostly…you get quite festive and it is fun. A couple of women have had bedbug bites which makes me nervous…I haven’t thought about them and all our places seem so good, but of course the best places can get them…so here’s hoping my luck continues!

      And we have been so fortunate with the weather - last night it rained soon after we arrived and during the night there was quite a storm, but all gone by morning, except some puddles and muddy patches now and then. We arrived here about 3. This town is the centre of a huge grain area, and when you first see a vista of the town you see an enormous silo towering over everything else, rather than the usual church tower and steeple. So we celebrated with an arrival beer - so sunny and bright that Amr and Rich sported Hawaiian shirts!
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    • Dag 16

      Vilagarcia de Arousa

      I går, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Many pilgrims take the boat to Padron from here but we're walking, will add 2 days to our journey. Slight mess up on our accomodations but solved it by hiking to city center, then back 2 miles to our hotel, so bonus miles! Another beautiful walk, back on the beach now. No rain, hot enough to walk in a t-shirt. We got cookies at the convent!Läs mer

    • Dag 11

      Pamplona

      5 maj, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Day 4 Pamplona
      Distance from Larrasoana to Pamplona 19kms

      The temperature is getting warmer and it was pleasurable to walk on a dry surface in warm sunny conditions. We stumbled across a 13th Century church with its doors open and Sister Maria in residence.
      It was a long easy walk into Pamplona and being Mother’s Day the city was buzzing with families. We found the famous Iruna Bar the hangout of Ernest H and enjoyed the local Rosado and delicious tapas. Dined with fellow pilgrims this evening and look forward to a rest day here in Pamplona tomorrow.
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    • Dag 21

      Lovely little gem

      5 maj, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

      🌧️ After a long, soggy day's hike, stumbled upon the coziest haven for the night. Warm hospitality greeted us, along with a heavenly homemade chicken curry, rice, and rotis. Sat down with a fellow Korean pilgrim, swapping tales of our journeys. Grateful for these unexpected connections on the path. #PilgrimageStories #Hospitality #TravelTalesLäs mer

    • Dag 25

      To Lalín — wet again!

      5 maj, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      I must be losing my strength — only 22 km and 350 m, and I was dragging and straggling by the time I got to Lalín at about 1:30. Part of the reason was no doubt the rain. Though it never got torrential, it was relentless. So much mud and water to navigate undoubtedly slowed me down, but I was surprised when Wikiloc told me it was only a 22 km stage

      In spite of the rain, this was a beautiful stage. The predominant color was green, and the predominant sounds were twofold – water and humming. The water came in all sorts of sounds — trickling, gurgling, rushing, roaring even. At one point I could see four different not-so-little lwaterfalls converging into a river, which was high and moving fast. In fact, some of the bridges I walked over were almost underwater.

      And the humming was the sound of the milking machines that came out of all of the dairy farms. I have never walked this stage without seeing at least one person leading cows to pasture. But today they were all being milked, I guess. I saw several milk collection trucks throughout the day, so that confirms my suspicion that everyone was getting milk ready for market.

      The weird display paying homage to Franco and Juan Carlos is still there, but gone are the many plasticized pages describing the owner’s lawsuit against someone, I was never sure if it was the government or a neighbor. Maybe it has been resolved.

      As I was coming into Lalín, I was remembering the excellent meal I had here years ago. And since it’s Sunday, I was expecting there to be all sorts of great options for a leisurely Sunday lunch. After I washed clothes and showered, I headed out in search of a good restaurant.

      Imagine my surprise (and disappointment) when I learned that every restaurant in Lalín booked for Mother’s Day lunch! I have found a decent tapas place, though, and I’m a happy camper.

      Everyone says it won’t rain tomorrow — may it be so.
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    • Dag 58

      Avila to Bilbao

      5 maj, Spanien ⋅ 🌫 12 °C

      This is always the least favorite part of travel.....going home. It is not that I don't want to go home it is just the logistics🥺

      My train left Avila at 15:30 and arrived at Valladolid at 5 pm. My next train to Bilbao is at 18;50 arriving in Bilbao at 22:20. My flight tomorrow is at 10:30 am....so a lot of travel in a very short period of time.🤔 But all self inflicted....

      I really like train travel as it is very comfortable and punctual

      I am going to add some more pics from Avila as I took a lot.
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    • Dag 15

      Vilanova de Arousa

      5 maj, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Rain turned into sunshine! Tho very muddy, a beautiful morning on the walk of stone and water portion of the camino. The rivers are overflowing and loud, many old abandoned stone millhouses alongside. View from my window out to the sea.Läs mer

    • Dag 26

      At Calzadilla de la Cueza, a tiny town

      5 maj, Spanien ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

      We left our beautiful San Zoilo hotel a little after 9 this morning. Breakfast was at 8, but we knew the weather was unreliable and could get bad later, and it was only about 16 kms. And we knew that tonight would not be as fancy as last night. And I must mention dinner last night, fashionably at 8.30, even the half pension menu was great and it was rather fine dining. Amr, Rachel and I had grilled vegetables for our entrée, and it was a beautifully arranged plate of so many veges - artichoke, peas, beans, eggplant, leek, carrot, pumpkin, zucchini, asparagus, cauliflower, broccoli, tomatoes, Brussels sprouts and even bok choy! served with a romesco type sauce, just delicious and a full meal in itself as is often the case in Spain, pilgrim menus anyway….then you have some form of meat and potatoes…

      So today’s walk was maybe the least spectacular of the meseta, and if walked not in spring, or in bad weather, may cause people to blacklist this section, as it was basically flat and straight, with just a little undulation at the end when you thankfully come across this village hiding just under the horizon. But we had a good walk, and of course it is now green and beautiful, with quite a lot of yellow fields of rapeseed or some mustard crop, and ploughed fields waiting for what I think will be sunflowers, as we saw them before here. There were many moments of beauty.

      One excitement for me was that I discovered my new phone, which I use as a camera and on wifi but has no SIM, can use the app I had downloaded for identifying plants…I had assumed it needed some internet connection, but just decided to try instead of asking Amr or Rachel, and it worked…it is all downloaded!! This was such fun for me, and I trailed along testing plants and flowers. There are so many wild flowers along all the edges - came across some poison hemlock which was the most interesting find of the day.

      Another funny thing happened when we were having a break at one point - there are benches and picnic tables dotted around here and there, and even once a coffee truck sort of set up - there was a woman with a hat like Amr’s!! She said she’d bought it in Australia, but admitted she didn’t know where it was made..! So it’s not as unique as we thought, even though we bought it in a small French village and it is made in Nepal. But Amr wearing it is unique!

      We arrived here at 2 pm and were happy that we had beaten any really bad weather. It was cool but not freezing, though it was very windy which was hard to walk through. But maybe the wind helped keep the rain at bay because we had odd spots of raindrops occasionally, but nothing that required ponchos (though some pessimists put them on and had them flapping madly in the wind). Checked into our basic but more than adequate rooms, had a drink, and people were arriving wind blown and drenched poor things….we were so happy to be warm and cosy by then. They had walked further, from the town where yesterday’s lovely church was. Dinner here at 7.30, all good.
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