Now that we are both retired, we have time to explore new places and meet new people. And at journey's end, we also love coming home to family and friends in Oregon.
"A journey is best measured in friends, not miles."
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Newberg, United States
  • Day 13

    A Thousand Waterfalls

    June 10, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    We woke to the birds singing in the forest surrounding our hotel in Plitvice Lakes National Park. An electric bus took us to our designated entrance to the trails. In order to protect the ecosystem and manage the number of people in each area of the park, tickets have a designated time, entrance station and direction of travel in the park. Most of our walk was gradually downhill through the forest encountering waterfall after waterfall, meandering through a series of lakes at the bottom of the canyon. Rustic boardwalks and steps crossed over delicate wetlands and streams in places, sometimes with the water rushing beneath our feet. There were waterfalls of all sizes and lakes of the clearest emerald green. It was like walking through a fairytale forest.
    When we reached the largest lake Jezero Kozjak, we boarded an electrically-powered boat for a peaceful ride to the other side. Of course, what goes down must go up, so the next section of our hike was uphill. However, this section revealed even more spectacular waterfalls, with the grand finale: Veliki Slap (Big Waterfall - a descriptive, if not very romantic name). Even the last and steepest section of the trail, with multiple switchbacks came with a reward. At the top, we could look down on the beautiful vista.
    Leaving this water wonderland behind, we headed over the Dinaric Alps toward the Dalmatian coast. Again, there was a dramatic change in the landscape, leaving the lush green for the dry desert-like area on the seaward side of the mountains.
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  • Day 12

    Opatija to Plitvice

    June 9, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Sunday morning we left our castle in Motovun bright and early to begin our drive to Plitvice Lakes National Park. Our lunch stop was in the seaside resort town of Opatija. During the 18th century, the wealthier residents of the nearby industrial city of Rijeke built beautiful Austrian-style villas.
    Then we left the coast to head inland to Plitvice Lakes National Park. We stayed the night in the Hotel Plitvice, a communist-style hotel built in the 1970s when this was part of Yugoslavia.
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  • Day 11

    A Bit of Italy in Croatia

    June 8, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Today we explored the Istrian Peninsula in the city of Pula and the seaside village of Rovinj. Although now Croatia, this area belonged to Italy for centuries, and still has a strong Italian minority. Pula is the site of the sixth largest existing Roman amphitheater, but the most intact and best preserved, built by the Romans in the first century (as in the year 80 AD). It was easy to picture the gladiators fighting wild animals in the center of the arena. It is interesting that our modern football and soccer stadiums are much the same design. In fact, the amphitheater in Pula is still used for concerts, etc; Sting recently performed here.
    After a lunch of "frito misto" (calamari, small fish and huge prawns), we drove on to the charming Venetian town of Rovinj. We spent most of our time just sitting in a cafe near the marina, enjoying lemonade and espresso and watching the people passing. By the way, lemonade is fresh squeezed juice in a glass. accompanied by a bottle of mineral water to mix as you like; no sugar, but there are packets on the table. As it is Saturday, there were many locals out and about. We wandered the colorful little cobblestone streets and alleys for a bit.
    Our final stop was in Brtonigla for another delicious dinner. We worked off some of the pasta on our walk up the steep hill to our hotel in Motovun.
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  • Day 10

    Our Castle Fortress in Motovun

    June 7, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    After leaving the Lisjak vineyards, we followed the Istrian coast to our hotel in a 17th century palace on the very top of the hill in Motovun. Our trip involved a border check as we crossed out of Slovenia and into Croatia. The bus had to drop us off at the bottom of the hill as it is not allowed into the oldest part of the medieval village. It was a steep walk to the hotel, but the amazing 360 degree views were worth it. After a delicious dinner of local pasta with truffles, we walked along the walls built in 1278, when the village was under Venetian rule (Istria has gone back and forth from Italy, to Austria, to Croatia).Read more

  • Day 10

    Lisjak Vina

    June 7, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    We traveled today through the beautiful Soca Valley to the town of Kobarid. The small museum there explains the importance of the Soca Pass, and the terrible fighting during World War I through the stories of the soldiers. It is a moving and very well done museum, highlighted by the excellent guide who led us through.
    With thoughts of the terrible price of war in our minds,we continued on toward the sea. As we followed the river through the Soca valley toward the Istrian peninsula, the landscape changed dramatically from the alpine peaks toward the green hillsides and finally the more Mediterranean coastline. Our lunch stop was at the beautiful Lisjak vineyards, where we sampled the young wines, as well as the mature whites and red Teran wine. This vineyard has been in the family for eight generations.
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  • Day 9

    OMG! Part 2: We're going to die!

    June 6, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Leaving Lake Bled, our next stop was the Planica Nordic Center where we were able to watch skiers practicing their jumps. The World Ski Flying championships will be held here next year.
    Then began our journey over the mountains via the Vršič Pass. This was the "OMG! We're going to die!" part of the day, at least for Myj, who is not fond of roads with steep drop-offs. The pass is the highest in the Julian Alps and includes 50 hairpin turns. The road is quite narrow in spots, so encountering cars along the way was hair-raising. In fact, we came upon a car pulling a travel trailer (what were they thinking?) and they actually had to back up to let us by. There were also crazy people on bicycles and motorcycles!The pass has a somber history, as it was built by soldiers and POWs during World War I, many of whom died in the harsh winter conditions.
    Having survived the pass, we continued along the Sava River to our hotel in Bovec, set in a beautiful alpine valley. Our group walked through the little village to a dinner of local trout and venison. There are many shops and outfitters for every outdoor sport : rafting, kayaking, hiking, skiing, climbing and more.
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  • Day 9

    An OMG! Day: Part 1

    June 6, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Thursday we left Ljubljana headed toward the mountains. It was a day of "OMG! Isn't that gorgeous?"
    Our first stop was at the incredibly beautiful Lake Bled. We drove most of the way to the castle, then climbed to the top for an amazing view of the turquoise water, the surrounding mountains and the tiny church-topped island. The color of the water is from the Karst limestone.
    A group of us decided to take the trip to the island in one of the "pletna" boats. Each boat is rowed by one man, similar to a gondola, but the boats are flat-bottomed. This guy makes up to five trips per day; no need for a gym membership for him!
    Unfortunately, the trip took longer than we thought, so we had to do a "fast food" sandwich lunch and skip the famous cream cake (we had had some in Ljubljana though).
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  • Day 8

    Nasvidenje, Ljubljana

    June 5, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Our last full day in Ljubljana began with a walking tour with local guide Sasha. He explained how the political history influenced the architecture of the city, and the contribution of Jože Plečnik to creating the beautiful city that Ljubljana is now. Our afternoon was free for a little shopping in the Farmer's Market and of course, some kava, some pivo and some vino with our lunch at a sidewalk cafe.
    Our new tour friends Barbie and Debbie invited us to join them for dinner at restaurant Danilo in Skofja Loca, about 20 minutes away by taxi. Danilo was one of the first "slow-food" restaurants in Slovenia. It was an amazing meal.
    We have absolutely loved Ljubljana. It is a beautiful, walkable city and the residents seem to know how to enjoy life.
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  • Day 7

    Meeting Our Tour Companions

    June 4, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Our Rick Steves Tour officially started this afternoon. However, we met four of our tour companions this morning at breakfast. Barbie and Debbie, sisters-in-law from the San Diego area, were interested in the ethnographic museum, as were we, so we joined up for the walk and visit to the museum. Of special interest was the bee-keeping exhibit. Slovenians have an affection for their native Carniolian bees and a long tradition of bee-keeping.
    Then it was time to meet the rest of the gang, who come from the west coast, Arizona, New Jersey, Texas, Alabama and Michigan. Our guide, Darija led us on a short walking tour through one of the neighborhoods where "real people " live, then through the old city to the funicular. You can hike up the hill to the castle, but riding was nice, especially since it was hot and humid. The Ljubljana Castle is was more for fortfication than as a palace, so the most interesting thing at the top is the incredible view over the city. A "Welcome dinner" was waiting for us in the restaurant on the castle grounds. We enjoyed getting to know our new companions for the next two weeks over yet another delicious meal.
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  • Day 6

    Reunion with Boris

    June 3, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    We were very lazy today, after our busy weekend. We slept in, then met Myj's cousin Boris Pleskovic for lunch. His mother and Myj's mother were first cousins. Myj met Boris in 1974 when she visited Slovenia. Then he visited her family in Oregon before beginning his Master's program at Harvard (and then he went on to earn a doctorate at MIT). Boris has had an illustrious career in the meanwhile. He was the Director of Research for the World Bank in New York for 30 years, then returned to Slovenia in the 90s when Slovenia gained independence, serving as a key advisor to the Prime Minister. His "retirement," job is as President of the Slovenian World Congress.
    We had an excellent lunch and lively conversation sharing remembrances of our visits to each other's homes in the 70s, and catching up on our experiences since then. His are a bit more impressive than ours! Nevertheless, he is still charming and we had a wonderful time.
    The rest of our day included a nap, a bit of laundry, catching up on travel posts and a walk along the river studying all the restaurants before selecting one for dinner.
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