Wildlife 🦥, Photographer 📷, Birdwatcher 🦉, Travel 🚌. From Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 but currently on Mexico 🇲🇽 to Rio de Janeiro 🇧🇷 Adventure 🚌 Read more Stirling, United Kingdom
  • Day 124

    Columbian cooking

    May 3 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    A new continent seemed a good opportunity to learn more about local food. So today I (Helen) took a cooking class in Cartagena. Columbian food doesn’t have the same profile as Mexican or Peruvian food does so I was interested to learn more.

    The menu today was:

    Arepas - these are common in Columbia (as well as neighbouring Venezuela and Ecuador) and are made from corn dough, often stuffed. We had two fillings, one with avocado, similar to guacamole (but no chilli) the other a chicken mix. Apparently chilli is not commonly added when cooking in Columbia but would be added at the table as part of a salsa/sauce.

    Patacones - these are double fried plantains (green plantains so not very sweet) which were served with garlic shrimp. We had a similar dish in Costa Rica called Tostones.

    Fish cooked on a barbecue in Bijao leaves served with a pepper and tomato sauce and yuca purée and yuca crisps.

    Dessert - ripe plantains (yellow) this time, cooked in picaro. This is a sugar product which is dark like muscovado sugar or treacle. To balance the sweetness it was served with lulo sorbet. Lulo is a fruit which I had never heard of. It has a sharp, citrusy flavour a bit like a mix of passion fruit and lime but is a member of the tomato family.
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  • Day 123

    San Felipe Fort

    May 2 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Cartegena was a dominant trading town particularly a place where gold was collected from elsewhere before being exported.

    This quickly attracted pirates (of the Caribbean). Interesting pirates don’t mean Jack Sparrow type characters here but the most famous is Sir Frances Drake who captured the city in 1586 and was going to burn it down but accepted a ransom payment of 10 million pesos.

    Having had enough of this the Spanish built huge fortifications - 13km of city walls and this fort - San Felipe. It took about 200 years to complete and was finished just in time for the Spanish to get kicked out of Colombia!

    On another note a lot of tourists come to Colombia for dubious motives and a lot of Venezuelan women have been trafficked here for the sex industry. We have seen various dubious establishments on our walks. But when I (Michael) went for a short walk alone at lunchtime to get some food (whilst Helen was on cooking course) I was offered a “massage” 7 times. We have also been offered drugs several times. Quite seedy and sad for what is otherwise a beautiful city.
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  • Day 123

    Getsemani

    May 2 in Colombia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Previously a very poor part of the city Getsemani (after the biblical location) hosted a street art convention in 2017 and suddenly became a place of interest to visit. Rapidly artists and hipster coffee shops and bars gathered and it is now a tourist hotspot.

    This is an Afro-Caribbean area so the art is influenced by that. Lots of colour and energy to this place. Love it!
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  • Day 122–125

    Cartagena Old Town

    May 1 in Colombia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We are now in Cartagena in northern Colombia.

    Established by the Spanish in 16th century this was the city where gold was gathered before being exported to Spain. It had to be very fortified to protect from pirates and privateers including our own Frances Drake who captured and sacked the city at one point.

    Colombia is a bit more gritty and lively than Panama. We have to watch for pick pockets and over aggressive traders but it is so full of energy and a lovely buzz and friendliness too. The street food is tasty too.
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  • Day 122

    Goodbye Panama, Hello Colombia

    May 1 in Colombia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We celebrated our last night in Central America with a meal out at a nice restaurant, this is also just over half way in our adventure.

    Today we headed to the airport and flew to Colombia and South America for the first time. We have a few days here to explore the city of Cartegena. Will share more soon.Read more

  • Day 120

    The many faces of Panama City

    April 29 in Panama ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    We have enjoyed being in a big city again with lots of culture, sites and food choices. Panama City is a vibrant cosmopolitan place and has many sides to its personality.

    Historic - the old town goes back to 15th century and includes churches, plazas, fishing boats and food markets. It was sacked by pirates (Captain Morgan) and rebuilt in the area we have been staying.

    Financial - this is a recent addition with the first skyscraper being built in 1996 but now counting over 60 as the banking and financial area thrived based in part on secret offshore banking.

    Industrial - based on the canal the city has a huge port and transport hub along with all the industries to support this.

    We have enjoyed this city and yesterday climbed the main hill/viewpoint and today walked and cycled around the coast to see different sides to Panama City's personality.
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  • Day 116

    Panama Canal

    April 25 in Panama ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    I was a child when my interest in the Panama Canal was first peaked. “A man, a plan, a canal, Panama” - my Dad taught me that and the fact it is a Palindrome (can be read forward or backwards).

    Well we have been to the museum about the canal, crossed the canal and visited the main pacific side locks.

    It is an amazing feat of engineering. 30 million kilos of dynamite were used to blast a way through the mountains (more than in any war previously). Over 45,000 workers were employed the vast majority ex slaves from the Caribbean many of whom lost their lives during the work.

    What is also interesting is how the vision for the canal actually caused the country of Panama to be formed, divided, invaded and then united!

    Formed - the USA negotiated with Colombia to build the canal and they would not agree to the US price so instead the US backed some rebels from Panama to break away from rest of Colombia. Within 15 days of Panama being formed as a country a treaty was signed for the canal to be built at a cheap price of $10 million for which the USA was sovereign over than canal and a zone 5 miles either side. The Panamanian government was told of the terms without being involved in the negotiation,

    Divided - from the formation of Panama to 1999 the country was divided by the Canal Zone which was 10 miles wide. The USA owned and ran this zone and it was quickly seen as an unjust colonial insult to Panama’s sovereignty. In 1964 students took the Panamanian flag into the zone to raise it in key locations. Violence followed and about 20 were killed. Panama broke international relations with USA.

    The USA was increasingly losing the moral argument over the canal with several UN votes going against it. So from 1979 to 1999 a process progressed to hand the Canal Zone and operations back to Panama.

    Invaded - fairly recently 1989 the USA invaded Panama to implement regime change. The president Noriega (a former CIA agent) was a liability to the US, accused of many crimes and ignoring the election that he lost. The canal could not be handed over to him. The full invasion lasted two months and many civilians were killed. Those we spoke to here said it was very traumatic but the majority of the country supported it to end military dictatorship.

    United - on 31 December 1999 the canal was handed over fully to Panama and the “fifth border” was removed. Since then the canal has been widened to allow bigger ships and it has operated smoothly. Ships pay variable rates to transit the canal from $2k for a small yacht to $1.2million for the largest ships that want to jump the queue. Today the size of many ships around the world are designed to fit the Panama Canal. The Neopanamax class (fits the new locks) are 370m long and 49m wide.

    Oh and the canal pays the Panamanian government about $3 billion a year, 26% of government income.
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  • Day 114

    Wreck Diving in Bocas

    April 23 in Panama ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Bocas has a lot of wrecks to dive. First no there are no bodies in any of these wrecks! Most of them were planned wrecks for diving.

    We dived to a sailboat called Godewind with all the rigging and sail still intact encrusted with marine life. Quite a Pirates of the Caribbean look. Our dive master kindly took a video of us here.

    We free dove (just holding our breath) the Panama Airplane. This didn’t crash in the water but overran the nearby runway and was destroyed with no loss of life so they just towed it out into the harbour and sank it to provide an interesting dive site. It is about 6m under water.

    We also dived around the sunken Old Ferry for the island complete with car deck and a random toilet.

    Lastly we did 3 dives to a trimaran called Mystic Winds which was big enough to swim under and through finding various fish including large groupers and a couple of sleeping nurse sharks.

    I find it encouraging to see how marine life reclaims old wrecks. Not all our waste is totally useless to nature.

    All in all we have grown during our diving on this trip. At the start of the year in Mexico we tended to be lacking experience and confidence when diving, but now we tend to be quite a bit more confident and competent than the people we are diving with. Diving around and particularly through or under wrecks requires excellent buoyancy control which we have been focusing on with a speciality course in Costa Rica. So far this year we have done over 30 dives.

    We hope to dive again in Colombia.
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  • Day 108

    Bocas del Torro

    April 17 in Panama ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We have been staying here for a week which has mostly been spent diving - see other post.

    The other main activity we took here was a day birding by boat around the mainland and visiting bird island. I will do a blog post on this shortly.

    Bocas is currently a work in progress. They have ripped up all the roads and are replacing the drainage, pavement and surfaces but they seem to be doing this one piece of equipment at a time. Also there was a major fire a few days before we arrived and a 4 storey hotel on the waterfront was destroyed.

    Our Airbnb Accomodation was nice enough but a tad on the small side. It is a converted shipping container (quite common here) and they were a bit cheeky in pretending the bed was long ways across the room in photos (see mine).

    Tomorrow we head to Panama City so boat, taxi and ten hour bus.
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  • Day 107–115

    Diving, Bocas del Torro

    April 16 in Panama ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We are on a small island off the north coast of Panama called Bocas del Torro which has a very sheltered bay with lots of wrecks in it which creates interesting diving. There is even a passenger plane wreck here which we will visit before we leave.

    So far we have done 6 dives including 3 wreck dives and seen a lot of interesting stuff. We are enjoying staying in one place for a while too. On the swim through of one of the wrecks I found two sleeping sharks. We also found several giant eye squid in mid water on today’s dive.

    Lots of love, missing you all
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