Italy

July - August 2022
I‘m doin a solo unsupported roadtrip by bike thru italy Read more
  • 28footprints
  • 3countries
  • 30days
  • 235photos
  • 2videos
  • 4.1kkilometers
  • Day 31

    statssss

    August 22, 2022 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    here to finalise the chapter: stats&thoughts

    riding:

    3971km
    29856m el. gain
    134:38:04
    15 punctures
    1 broken pump
    6 extraordinary bike problems fixed en route
    - cracked steerer tube
    - loose rw bearing
    - major frame crack
    - broken lower steering bearing
    - not working shifting cable so almost all the way big ring (53T)
    - only one charge on my shifting battery to handle all gear shifts so one time I only
    shifted 17 times in 150kms

    2 almost-crashes
    2 almost-accidents
    500+ red lights passed (calculate the time savings;)
    100+ times getting passed wayy too close ( but honestly I trusted all of them and there is no such strict laws like here in Germany)

    eating:

    2000€+ spent on f+b
    230l drunk
    19kg ice used for cooling me
    gained 3 kg
    despite burning 110.000kcal (on the 23 riding days)

    most cal burnt: 10.100 kcal active only
    most cal eaten in 1min: >1000kcal
    most cal eaten in 1 day: >6000kcal
    most drunk in 1 day (without peeing): 11l

    problems:

    only one charge for my solar powered bike computer
    several payment problems
    several non-answering/unavailable hosts at warm showers
    non-understanding hosts that my bike has the worth of a car and is all I´d got so I always took it to my room.

    overall:

    30 days
    4000€ spent mainly on hotels and f&b
    1 unbelievably great solo adventure
    great sense of what's needed and what not
    huge progress in (rational) problem solving bc my ass was basically on the line all the time
    amazing memories
    expedition of one whole country and also its cuisine which was even more important to me
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  • Day 30

    GOING HOME

    August 21, 2022 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    started the last day out with baking ciabatta for my relatives and myself ofc which was a great headstart in the last 250k of my trip. I knew some 20ks at the beginning and the last 135ks (yup, you get to know lots of streets when riding a lot) so that was kinda familiar but even harder because I knew exactly how much is still coming up.
    early in I hadn't the best legs but did my best to continue, which I did after a short roadside break. Having gained more power than before the ride really turned into pure homecoming glory. with every km done the streets became increasingly familiar and more frequently ridden by me til home wasn't far away anymore. each and every meter I got closer to home more and more emotions and also homesickness and joy came up. after arriving to a welcome home sign by my lovely mom I sprayed Prosecco in our garden to celebrate this quite astonishing and very rich journey.
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  • Day 29

    meeting known faces again

    August 20, 2022 in Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    after a great stay at Stefanie´s , a German soon-to-be Doctor working in Chur who hosted me via Warmshowers (which was quite more popular north of the Alps), I continued in a more and more felt-like-home environment. After crossing Liechtenstein I finally crossed the Austrian border again and continued in harsher rainy weather, but focused for going towards Allgäu where my great-aunt lives. After unconsciously crossing the German border and passing Ofterschwanger Horn in beautiful sunshine there was only some miles left of rolling down to her place. It felt so great coming home after all of those beautiful but also kinda challenging months abroad.
    I brought some Parmesan and cooked a meal for them for hosting me which was great.
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  • Day 28

    Traversing the alps

    August 19, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    After not spending a single second pedalling for the last 4 days, I didn’t really know what to expect coming out of my legs. Starting quite late because I’ve only found a warm showers host at Chur who worked til half past 9, the first thing paving my way to beautiful Switzerland was a burst tire. was focused again, started looking for a gas station/gommista whatever had a compressor because I’ve had no trust in my kinda broken pump. After some unfriendly car vendors tried to tell me their repair shops were closed (unfortunately it’s already been noon) whilst only asking for using the compressor once, I found a gas station whose chain already let me pump my tire. So I asked kindly but yea, same thing, chiuso...
    I asked twice because the tube just began to pop out. She rejected and told me where I could find another gas station which features a compressor for self-use. Next to McDonalds, she said. I asked, `certo?!´, she replied sure, they got like 2-3 apparati. Well, I trusted her because she looked like having been there often, so I began changing to running shoes, and ran to that gas station.
    When I arrived, Chiusa. Just self-gas and pumping only when open, 1 compressor and it would’ve even cost 1€ for pumping your tires by yourself….. Gas prices huh?
    So I began asking locals and they wouldn’t know a station around either. I was angry about the bad intel I got and like before started to increase only self-trust and reliability. But the friendly local I met there suggested, that at that station there should be people coming by carrying a pump. Great idea!
    So I even got to ask Germans with Roadbike’s on the back of their car but they hadn’t even got co2 with them and no pump…
    The next ones, a family in a caravan from Munich then saved me, great. German reliability even helps you out in Italy!
    Afterwards I finally started riding and decided to go with one stop to San Bernardino, the alpine pass to cross. I did that in Tessin, the Italian part of Switzerland. No change of languages but of infrastructural investments meaning street quality and so on.
    Ordering caffè was the same but different in price… what’ld cost me 2,40€ in Italy now changed to 5,70CHF……..

    The weather kinda stayed calm, I’ve really had concerns about that when traversing 200k via the alps especially when having to go A to B with no safe place known somewhere along the way.

    Climbing started out real good, 1800m in height difference were to be surmounted to the day´s highest point. As the street inclined, temperatures declined. It was really stressful for my knees which by then did 1.5hrs of continuous effort at 300W and 55rpm at 9°C.

    The downhill was even more challenging because of rain and coldness and all that windchill. So I decided to go the quicker and less stressful way down there - the Autobahn. Yep, in Switzerland.
    That was a tough decision but I did it in great faith because of already knowing I won’t even make it to Chur before sunset. So I did and it‘s been a good decision because I was way quicker and also needed way less concentration and the warmer tunnels were a great bonus against the cold and wet zigg-zaggy roads.
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  • Day 27

    think week

    August 18, 2022 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Beginning with the arrival on 14.8. I spent my days in Miazzina, a beautiful small mountainous village where I had the chance to stay at my grand-aunts house which was located at the top end of the village resulting in a wonderful view across the Lago Maggiore where I stayed until 18.8.

    I was just cooking, thinking and avoiding social media for the time being and enjoyed it very much.

    It was great for having a look back and creating my resumèe.

    Some thoughts are still unfinished, but the resolved ones will create some change and deliver some new energy and points of attack in my life.

    I also went for a sunrise-hike which was planned but spontaneously executed but turned out astonishing.

    On the next day, 19.8. I continued riding home.
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  • Day 23

    big day

    August 14, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    allora, today I‘m going to the holiday domicile of my great-aunt

    sleep was good, the other guys in my shared room were complete lie-abeds.. so I tried stayin as calm as possible when leaving for breakfast which was nice and featured a portafilter coffee option (included but otherwise 0,90€😍😍😍!) and the best bread I‘ve had in this country and packing up for leaving again. In total 91€ was worth it; very central, good atmosphere, modern and clean environment, breakfast and welcome drink inc.
    But I as late as ever, 9:51 instead of 9am. But I never rushed things because that’s just not the vibe and could result in forgetting sth or other troubles so here we go. Riding by a ceremony which also hosted a 4-star admiral who was just 1.5m from me felt special in the morning. First quest: 430m above sea level. Easy going, little sweat and looots of bikers (un- &motorized) going the other direction promised a beautiful scenery and roads to ride on. It turned out that way and after the top roads were declining juust a little bit. Awesome. That part felt so great. Little bit of tailwind, nice. Good progress was made there. My parents contacted me the night before telling me they would stop by Milano when travelling from france to switzerland, and knew I was somehow around as well. So we decided to meet up which made me do the first 160k to milano in one go, which was working quite well considering I‘ve had some hard and especially long days in the saddle.
    I made it to the beautiful city and we met up, my mum gave me some extra clothing for the colder days being an extra tshirt and long pants.
    We had a coffee before they left and I furtherly discovered the must-sees of the city.
    Then I started the second part of the day - 100kms with a 500m mountain finish to the house where I‘ld stay a few nights to relax, reconsider life thoughts and just take a breath of fresh mountainous lake air.
    That was easy as well, whilst rolling along Lago Maggiore when a car pulled up next to my, sayin in german: „You’re Severin right? You’re doin italy by bike huh?“ I didn’t even get his name and didn’t recognize him. It felt like a strangers push of motivation in a bike race but out in the open, so good.
    climbed up the last hill in the night with no street lights and even without paving for the last few hundred meters. But hell yea, I made it:)

    cooked some diy pasta and fell to bed

    Time to relax and think, getting back to you all on friday. (urgencies=📞)

    bye
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  • Day 22

    thought-to-be best part of the journey

    August 13, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    the lack of hospitality made me leave the rental room in La Spezia very quick. same procedure as everyday, this time climbing from the start but whilst seeing naval ships so that was ok. I kind of didn’t wanna do it anymore but more than that I wanna go home so there’s that. I didn’t enjoy Cinqueterre that much because the flora seemed to be the usual italian within-autostrada-roundabout and no real foresty one. that changed when the streets went higher after the first part - which felt more like a rainforest but with mediterranean flora - and a lovely scatterly-arranged pine forest became the main player.
    Climbing still wasn’t enjoyable, riding downhill was neither because of the degrading rear tire and front brake pads. flat parts were unexpectedly few this time.. just before the longest straight a young local passed me by bike and I sat in his slipstream before we had a chat and were continuing together.
    We parted ways as he nearly arrived and I continued to Portofino. Most beautiful small marina town I ever saw and potentially there is.
    Went for Trofie al Pesto, for a quick swim and a coffee before going on to Genova. ups and downs in the route at least made me push a little more. When approaching from the east, Genova looks quite good actually with all the big appartment houses located on the hillside facing different directions and featuring diverse colors.
    Then I found my Hostel for the night which was rather expensive (91€) but it turned out really good. On my room I met two german girls who are currently Inter-railing around. We had a nice chat about traveling and the city before she told me she once did MUC-VEN by feet😱. That was crazy to hear, big goals that family must’ve set for themselves. I told her that I was just passing by Venetia on my 4th stage whilst it took them 4 weeks.
    Then I searched for a good local dinner, found it and made it back home absolutely food-drunk. My belly was about to burst as I had a pre-dinner sandwich with supermarket ingredients.
    So I fell into bed and was to tired to even get this one out and ready.
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  • Day 21

    again no incidents?!

    August 12, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    todays breakfast by kind host Leonardo was an italian one. He explained: an italian breakfast consists of either 1 coffee and a cookie, a tea and a cookie, no coffee 1 cookie, no tea 1 cookie, 1 coffee no cookie, 1 tea no cookie or nothing at all.
    so I ordered the obligatory „coffee“ but yea, he’s a great guy but it’s really been no hotel. hygiene and tidyness was a thing as well. I liked to think if the people who know me threw their worst prophecies about my future together, thats what I‘ld be like.
    So him crossing my path resembles what I should not become!

    Nevertheless, my real good italian breakfast took place at my first dbv of the day, Prato. 3,70€ for good espresso and 2 filled sweet treats 🤌🏻🤌🏻
    Pistoia was also not that special, but Lucca was. great old town inside medieval castle walls, nice churches all over the place.
    Pisa offered the same experience but with a leaning tower as we all know. great. been there.

    Now onto the next loong stretch of beach, at Viareggio. complete homecountry-tourism area as well as south of Rimini at the adriatic.

    finally the seashore featured cliffs again to act as a glance of what I‘ll be seeing tomorrow and I arrived in THE italian Navy town of the west coast, La Spezia. shortly after the city border naval ships looking like at least destroyers greeting me, so great. I‘ve been a military fan since a long time but just recently discovered a series which I love (the last ship) so finally seeing a biig naval ship felt like a topping on the cake.

    La Spezia is beautiful and just the beginning of la cinque terre, which I‘ll enjoy tomorrow.
    After looking for a place to eat and everywhere getting told they‘re full despite they weren’t, I hit up gmaps again and fund a superb looking, modern, chic and well-lit restaurant offering awesome-looking food as well. I called, asked for a table (in italiano) and é voila, I was in.
    Great food, real good atmosphere, awesome interior, delightful ambiente and professional and kind staff.

    Good enough for closing what feels like my last dinner because I don’t expect much of Genova (yes I like haven cities🤥) and reaally wanna go home again, but by bike, respectfully.

    buona notte
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  • Day 20

    fill in title here

    August 11, 2022 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    after a good night’s sleep I‘ve rolled down the hill I climbed up the day before which actually is something very rewarding.
    The route I planned was rather flat and a dbv of Arrezzo, which hosts a beautiful castle-style city centre where I also ate some gnocchi and ossobucco.
    Then I contacted a guy via Warmshowers, an app a friend recommended to me which is a cyclist-to-cyclist hosting platform. Even though it‘s been very short notice, he offered me a bed and dinner for the upcoming night at Firenze. I was happy and rolled to town where I spent the afternoon rolling my bike through the city to visit, sightsee and try local dishes before arriving at Leonardo‘s appartment.
    At first I‘ve felt a bit unsure because that guy looked like just having crawled out if a cave.. Upstairs I met the other 4 guys he hosted, 2 couples of total cultural mixing. one afghan-born who met his girl in Montreal and now riding to Venice starting in Nice, a peruvian who met his St. Petersburg-girl on the internet wanting to gain italian citizenship because he’s got ancestors (italy is the only country that approves that way for gaining citizenship) and is now just hanging around while she is working remotely. While having dinner and getting to know each other it turned out Leonardo also hosted a third couple from Spain and he also speaks spanish and quite good but extremely bad pronunciated english.
    Falling to bed because I really needed more rest after the long ride the day before..
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  • Day 19

    bellissima

    August 10, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    what a day again!!

    leaving Roma with a smiling and a crying eye because I really felt the density of things happening/known to having happened here and was overwhelmed enough to stay another day but I‘ve decided against it. It really is a remarkable city with soo much still-existent buildings not to forget the holy see and the powerful institution governed by it. Think of their net worth for once..

    As I left, I never really got running but that didn’t matter because there was 200km with 2500m of el gain to go.
    Halfway through I stopped for affogato and mint-granita, my new favorite ho cycling-stop combination ft caffeine, sugars and freshness through lemon or sometimes mint.
    The area got lonelier and lonelier so it was also getting harder to keep going just as temperatures increased as well. I came across a beautiful lake where again mostly Italians went on vacation for and somehow I liked that places more.

    It kept getting harder as last minute navigating increased as - being in tuscany - strade bianche really happen more often than you think..

    So I went for a even shorter and flatter route to stumble across a destroyed bridge. luckily I was able to walk across the river-bed as it was dried out.
    Some 500m of climbing in the end to finish a hard and long day were kind a hard but absolutely rewarding because when I made it to the top I found myself in the most beautiful hill-town I’ve ever been where eventually at that exact day a wine fest was going on!
    I checked into my castle-like hotel which was decorated lovely and went out.
    to say the rest: 🥂🍝🍷🥘
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