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Camino Portugese

May - June 2023
A 25-day adventure by TompkinsTales Read more
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  • TravelerCamino Portugese
    Day 24

    Homeward Bound, leaving on a high note

    June 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    3 am airports never vary.... People sleeping in contorted strange positions, sorting and repacking bits, tired looking returnees , much more alert departing vacationers. I'm waiting for our gate to be announced for our 5 am flight, and pondering my budgetary choices 😅. Actually we saved a lot on this flight, it was worth it.

    Our last day in Portugal was an absolute delight, I think we saw the best of the best. We got the first morning rabelo boat tour, about 8 of us on a peacefully gliding Duoro River trip. Rabelos are the boats used in the past to transport casks of port down to Porto, now they are used for tourism. These pretty, small wooden boats are a much more authentic experience than a crowded cruise boat day trip. Although the real river cruise boat we saw looked very tempting!

    Then the plan is to head for Sabrosa, the town 16km away that I've just read it's the birthplace of Ferdinand Magellan. As I explain it to Brad, if Magellan could attempt to circumnavigate the globe in the 1520s, then surely we could drive that short distance to visit! The only difficulty is that there is a price to be paid for breathtaking views, and that price is often a white knuckle drive. Incredibly gorgeous scenery does distract a bit from hair raising switchback elevation gains though, and we're soon enough in Sabrosa.

    A last picnic lunch in a park under trees, and a short walk through the old town leads us to Magellans birth home. We pay our quick respects there. I can't imagine the vision and drive of a person born in 1480, to believe the impossible could be done, and set out to do it. It's really sad he didn't quite make it, dying en route.

    We visit the nearby Sabrosa wine cooperative, where we have an excellent personal tour with a young local. For 4 euro each, this includes tastings. And it's a wonderful layout, the cooperative has kept much of the old equipment to display. An old copper still, which is no longer permitted to be used, manual filling and corking machines, we can see the effort required in the old days compared to the gleaming efficiency of the new. A bit less poetic, of course.

    And far less dangerous, as we are shown enormous vats where the grapes have their initial press. Once the liquid is siphoned out for the next step, even to this day, someone physically must crawl through a tiny door and scrape the mast out!

    A fascinating visit, not at all what we expected. So, down a routine highway, into a routine hotel, and here we are entering that vast complex system of transport. To be thrown out the other end many hours from now, jet lagged, achy, desperate for fresh air....and happy to be back on home ground!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portugese
    Day 22

    Duoro Valley & Pinhao

    June 21, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    So. This is an indescribably beautiful landscape. I can't do it justice, so many pictures will be attached. We made it by car out of the city, and within an hour find ourselves surrounded by green hills of vines.

    One slight wrong turn takes us by an antique store we can't resist, and it turns out they have an old pharmacy's inventory and some furnishings. A fun diversion for me😊

    A riverside picnic, then we make it to Pinhao just as a rain shower begins in earnest.

    A rainy afternoon = port tasting opportunity. We are in Pinhao tonight; if Porto is the birthplace of port wine then Pinhau is the conception.

    We try port we would never dream of at home, and it is the stuff of dreams. Amber or jewel deep ruby red, heady aroma, a tiny glass to savour can take an hour. We've gone to Quinta do Bomfim, an award winning estate considered to be one of the best in the world. The family has been in the business for five generations, they own about 25 vineyards, and supply to most of the big names in port, such as Dow, Graham's and Taylor.

    Sipping on the patio overlooking the Duoro River, the hostess informs us that these dizzyingly terraced vineyards are not irrigated in any mechanical way, and are harvested completely by hand. It's just astonishing to consider the unbelievable achievement that growing and harvesting here represents.

    For now, we will sip and appreciate the golden results.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portugese
    11
    Day 21

    A Day in Porto

    June 20, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    How nice to have a day of just rambling!

    After arriving at the bus station, we've taken the metro to the hotel, and set out again. The Metro system here is excellent, efficient and cheap!

    First back to the train station, I'm not able to reserve the train for tomorrow out to Pinhao, and I have a sinking suspicion why.... Sure enough, the train strike hits home.

    It's considered one of the most beautiful train rides in the world, but it seems we'll be doing it by rental car instead. Ok, reset, maybe even better!

    First stop, the famed Livrio Lello. This library with a stunning winding central staircase was JK Rowlings inspiration for a setting in her Harry Potter novels. It really is beautiful, but the crowding is more than I can take. Like so much of Europe right now, it's a victim of it's own success. Over tourism is a significant issue, and I'm not unaware of the irony of being a tourist complaining about all the others. We generally prefer lesser known, but some sights/sites really are must see. This one I would have adored at a more peaceful time, but since I doubt that ever happens I'd advise enjoy the photos online and skip the crowds.

    Porto is a lovely setting for a wander! Down to the river we go, cross the bridge, and meet a fellow pilgrim to share a table with for a port tasting. This is a spirit of unparalleled depth and complexity, the golden 10 years aged in oak is a superbly enjoyable nightcap.

    And we are reinvigorated, as we view the many, many steps back up to the hotel. Although we agree that those stairs are far, far easier than they would have been three weeks ago!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portugese
    Day 19

    Ultreia

    June 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Our hard won miles are melting away behind us, as we sit in luxurious bus seats and speed back towards Porto. And I can feel resistance tugging at me. I'm not ready to go back to concrete jungles and traffic, and the headlong racing that is so much of our daily lives.

    There's still so much to process, there is absolutely no feeling like I experienced walking into the huge expanse of the Plaza do Obradoiro and turning to face the stunning, legendary facade of our journeys goal, the Santiago de Compostela cathedral.

    Relief and rejoicing in equal parts, a feeling of achievement and satisfaction. Elated. The air is electric as excited shouts and cheers greet the constant stream of new arrivals. Spontaneous, congratulatory hugs abound. I feel it, this need to connect, to share, to acknowledge the end of a mutual journey.

    The magnificent cathedral quietly oversees all. For centuries, it has been the goal of untold numbers of pilgrims. Initially arriving to pay homage to the remains of the Apostle, but today pilgrims reasons for undertaking this journey are as varied as pilgrims themselves.

    We have had extraordinary interactions on this odyssey. Over the last 2 nights we've had 2 farewell and Bon voyage dinners with kindred spirits that crossed our paths. Each of them has played a role in the success of our journey, either in companionship, aid, support, humour, travel tips,and sometimes just in gelato recommendations.😊

    I've just seen pilgrims through the bus window, and silently wish them bon Camino. I know they are on a difficult journey. My intent to bring home with me is better recognition that everyone is.

    We had the once in a lifetime experience of seeing the fragrantly smoking enormous botafumeiro swing dizzyingly fast and high at the end of a pilgrims mass. I had a story told to me by a pilgrim of bolting awake one night with a verse from Corinthians flashing into her mind. That verse became her mantra on the way. And when she attended the pilgrims mass the day she arrived? Imagine her amazement when that exact verse was cited. There is a higher sort of magic and mysticism happening here, I have no doubt.

    There is a spot near the Cathedral, where I finally found a home for the rock I brought home from Port Alice, then carried all the Way. It holds a lot of love and memory for a tiny little stone, and I left it where it felt right.

    I'll miss the standard friendly bon Camino greeting as you progress throughput your day. I never heard on this trail the other common greeting, Ultreia. To which the response is "et suseia"

    Onwards. And upwards.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portugese
    11
    Day 18

    Padron to O Sisto

    June 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After a hotel room breakfast, we've done a low key walkabout of Padrons old town again. I love wandering old cities as they wake up, the quietness, the low voiced greetings....it feels that there is a general respect for the fact that some of us need to wake up slowly, gently. Aided by a really good cappuccino at a sidewalk cafe if at all possible.

    We find this cafe, also serving churros, which makes Brad happy and me shudder. Far too early in the day!

    Since it's a shortish day again, there's time to savor the little oasis that is Padrons peaceful, geometrical Botanical Garden before we set out on a 15km countryside ramble.

    We are spending the night at Casa Rural Vella da Rivera, where we are welcomed by Sin, one of the most gracious hosts I've ever experienced. Greeting us as friends rather than guests almost, Sin immediately shows us our room and says please, freshen up, rest, don't worry about the check-in we'll do that later. Come to the main house when you're ready.

    When we are ready, Sin gives us the tour of the 300 year old stone house she and her husband Diego have renovated over the last 3 years. It's a warm, cosy homey space, and we are encouraged to think of it as our home.

    Later, Sin and Diego serve a homemade pilgrims dinner. Simple, perfect, and with unexpected gourmet touches. A real feast, for all senses. We are joined at table by a family group from the Netherlands, and an extremely enjoyable dinner made the end of our day perfection.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portugese
    Day 17

    Route Translatio

    June 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    A day finally dawns when we are not up with the dawn! It feels odd indeed to not wake up and walk.

    All we need to do is wait for the boat we've booked, along with dozens of other pilgrims. The ship will take us to Pontecesures, a route known as the Translatio because it follows the path that the remains of the Apostle Santiago were ferried down the River Ulla.

    A unique feature of this journey is that it's also known by another name, the Via Crucis Maritimo Flvial - the only water route of stone crosses. We will see 17 on our trip.

    As we board, we meet several others we already know and have seen along the way. The mood is subdued excitement, everyone is anticipating the imminent end of this journey, which carries relief and sadness both.

    A very interesting tour begins with a close up view of the Galician mussel harvest industry. Second only to Canada in world production, we are informed.

    Gliding gently along we see the first of the stone crosses. They are simple, and striking. Eventually we pass the Catoira Towers, all that remains of a first century fortification built to defend from marauding Vikings.

    Arriving in Pontecesures, our little band promises to meet in Santiago for a beer together. Contact infos are exchanged, impulsive invitations issued. We may never see any of them again, but I have a bit of newfound faith and trust in the universe. If our paths are meant to cross again, they will. If not, I have gained something from every interaction, passing comments to deep discussions.

    Brad and I have the day in very nearby Padron to explore before we're back on the road tomorrow. Cathedrals are seen, my favorite type of ancient street warrens abound. It's truly enjoyable to stroll the streets with no agenda! I love the playgrounds here, they are so clean, with well padded surfaces and interesting equipment. So well used, so we can hear the little voices as we find ourselves the best gelato.

    Over a glass of wine, we watch a dating show in rapid Spanish and try to figure out the results of the meetings. We're pretty good at this....body language is universal 😅    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portugese
    1
    111
    Day 16

    The Way of Stone and Water

    June 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    A 2 km warmup walk from our hotel back to the trail sets us off onto my most anticipated segment yet of this journey.

    The Ruta de Pedra et de Agua is a magical forest walk along the Armenteira River. A happily bubbling brook to the right accompanies us along the trail which features many remnants of old water mills. All the way there is evidence of the ways water has historically been diverted towards the grinding stones. It's impressive, this ancient use of controlled energy. It's fantastically peaceful here, and we slow accordingly.

    I'm reminded of a myth I read about the nearby Armenteira Monastery. The story goes that the Abbot Ero has become mired in doubts surrounding the afterlife. To contemplate this problem, he goes walking in the forest beside the monastery. He wanders, he ponders, until a birdsong wakes him from his contemplations. He returns to the monastery only to find that 200 years have passed.

    This seems that sort of magical forest, it feels like a place outside of time. The constant murmer of water over rock is so soothing, it lulls you into almost a dreamlike state.

    I wonder, I used to admire the rock, for it's solid implacability. Now I think I rather more admire the water, which always finds a way, and lends its energy to further others goals along the way. All the while steadily, slowly, wearing down the stubborn rock.

    So easy to lapse into contemplation in this tranquil environment. But the Camino remains the Camino, we are not alone here and we come by other pilgrims. We've met Bijan and Sheila, Iranian and South African friends walking together. Sheila lives in Malta, and her eyes light up when we say not only do we know it, we got married there! Bijan is a retired neurosurgeon...we've met so many doctors on this path! He's wearing a cap with Switzerland on it, and it turns out he was hiking in the Lucerne area last year.

    We hopscotch along the rest of the trail with them, meeting up again as they leave the riverside lunch spot we're entering.

    The trail has changed after lunch, and we now are walking along grapevines bursting with the promise of a heavy harvest. Tiny green tendrils reach out to us as we pass, and I think even their delicate grip might be enough to reel me in. This part of Spain is spectacular.

    However, as the day wears on and the sun beats relentlessly down it becomes a grind. A completely unnecessary mountain is situated between us and our goal, Vilanova d'Arousa. It's over 28 degrees and late in the afternoon before this couple of sweat soaked stumbling walkers gratefully find our nights beds.

    As always, shower and change and drop the packs, and we are refreshed enough to venture out. We need to book a boat ride for tomorrow, up the inlet to Pontecesures. Accomplishing this with minimal fuss, we're off to wander when who do we see but Bea. So a beer together turns into dinner, where we are joined by the passing Bijan and Sheila!

    So a lively table spontaneously arises yet again. I can't describe the joy of this easy camaraderie that marks the Camino. People share. Their stories, their lives, themselves. It's become a most prized part of this experience for me.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portugese
    Day 15

    No end to unexpected events

    June 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    So, adventures have ensued since I last updated. Expect the unexpected, it's really the motto of the journey, but things happen that would be impossible to anticipate in normal life.

    Today alone we've climbed a mountain, been in an impromptu patio party, and I've been given the pilgrims blessing personally by a Trappist monk. Really you can't make this stuff up, no one would believe you. Unless they had been on Camino I suppose.

    Yesterday we spent the morning touring the 9th century old town of Pontevedra. First stop the Iglesia de la Virgen Peregrina, the scallop shaped chapel where we attended the service last night. A happy surprise, there we run into Miriam. She is spending a day alone after leaving Redondela walking with Beatrice and Lidia ( we finally discover the Irish girls name). And she relates, where they stopped for lunch yesterday they sat with a Korean man who pulled out his phone to show our picture and ask if anyone had seen us! Given the brotherhood status Krisli has assigned to himself and Brad, we note he is taking his fraternal duties seriously! Honestly it's heartwarming how these connections can happen. We have so much support and concern from home too, it's just incredible.

    Brad's leg is improving, at least enough for him to continue walking. It's probably not ideal and I'm sure at home he would just be resting it. But he's still unwilling to give up, especially this close.

    The rest of the day was a bit tougher walk to nearby Combarro than we expected. It was hot, lots of hills, and we arrived later than expected. To discover our accommodation was almost impossible to find, we had to phone the host, who didn't speak English, for help. Finally he sent a video for directions. The number by the door had zero relationship to the listed address, and I had about zero patience left!

    But, divested of packs, showered and fresh, we decide to go try and locate Furancho a de Pepe. And arrive just at opening time, where we are served fresh cold, not quite sparkling Albarino wine in the traditional ceramic cuncas. And proceed to enjoy a veritable feast, including a dish we ordered accidentally. Something lost in translation 😊. The place is filling up, we are surrounded by happy animated chatter. All enjoying food and wines made right here, in this modest premises, by the family. Pepe hosts and pours generously, his wife bustling in the kitchen. It's a great end to the day.

    This morning, up and at it, there's a mountain to ascend! At least this time I was counting on a steep climb of 9 to 10 km. After 5 or so though it levelled off for a while. We hopscotch the way with a family of 4 from Singapore, elderly parents and middle age "kids" like us. Walk for a way with an Aussie who's a bit faster than us and goes on ahead.

    We arrive at Armenteira so much earlier than I expected, by 11:30. For once we're early and there's nothing to see, it seems! So we find the only open cafe in town, where our Aussie is already ensconced, drinking a beer. He's waiting for his walking group to arrive, but first come the Singapore family - Singapore in the house, our Aussie calls out to greet them, and there's a bit of a group cheer. Not too much later his group arrives. Two Italian girls and one Hungarian, Irina, Katrina, and Ester. We've seen them over the last couple days too. So it's a big enough group of walkers enjoying the patio sunshine. Spontaneous, enjoyable.

    As most are moving on, we go to the nearby Mosteiro de Armenteira. This Cistercian monastery has been here since around 1162. It's modest, simple, so peaceful. After a look around, we see the monk who gives us the stamp for our credentials. He speaks English perfectly, he's also the chaplain to the nuns here. They make a lot of products in the monastery for sale, soaps, creams, medals, liqueurs. Brad can't resist buying a small bottle of eucalyptus liqueur. We're going to have to leave most of it behind, but oh well.

    And so, a couple of easy km later, we are in much more luxurious accommodations, and it's still early enough to do laundry!

    To round out a big day, we head back to the village for a late dinner, where we run into Beatrice, share dinner and an orujo, traditional Galician liquor, and are back at the hotel in time for a cappuccino sunset.

    And that eucalyptus liqueur? Smelled like a combination of mouthwash and cough syrup😅. The taste? Divine, who knew!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portugese
    Day 13

    What goes up must come down

    June 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    But there's no rule it can't just go straight back up! How is it that so many Camino days start off swiftly with steep climbs?

    We've taken our time leaving the lovely alberge A Darcena do Frances. It has a bit of a French château look, and wonderful grounds. But it was unanimously agreed at the breakfast this morning that the mattresses are the best on the Camino so far! And there was much recognition of the value of Marion's great prize, a private bathroom😅

    We end up having an extra coffee and a great conversation with Marion, a clinical psychiatrist, Beatrice a retired educator from Wales, and an Irish girl whose name none of us ever caught 😊 Such different inputs and life experiences, the conversation is lively, fast flowing, and so interesting. But hit the road we must!

    Brad has over 24 hours of antibiotics in his system now, and is feeling so much better. The plan is for him to start out, walk as far as he can, then taxi if necessary to our nights lodgings on Pontevedra.

    If anything was going to do him in, it should have been all those initial climbs! I realize now when the Camino Portugese is referred to as the flattest, what is really meant is "on average". We did spot the bread van going through the last little town, but all they had left were large loaves. We've learned this from last experience, in Spain the bread truck will deliver fresh bread to your door, and you can run out to buy some too. Way better than an ice cream truck! I told Brad I've read in a forum that some pilgrims thought it was bread left out for them, and just took it! Imagine the chagrin of the purchaser!

    Today there are more pathside vendors, as after reaching Arcade in about 7 km, there path is mostly through forest. We buy a couple of apples from one, and a tuna empanada to share for lunch from another.

    It's an easy going walk, after the initial hills. It's not an exciting day, rather a peaceful one. We are strolling along so well, in fact, that we decide to take a slightly longer alternative route that follows a river right into town. A perfect choice, leafy shade, birdsong, river current and little falls. Brad spots brilliant dragonflies, the brightest blue we've ever seen. It's funny what we're noticing...last night we had coffee after dinner in the garden, and watched 3 snails race around a chairs edge.

    Pontevedra is a typical city at the outskirts, and we head straight to the old town area where our hostel is. A short rest then a quick explore for the night, puts us right at the Cathedral in time for pilgrims blessing. Not something we would normally do, but it seemed absolutely serendipitous, so we did. A mass in another language is so isolating, but allowed me to recognise the rituals and cadences from my childhood. There is a beauty to it.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portugese
    Day 12

    The Camino Will Provide

    June 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    As soon as I started researching the Camino, I found that this saying and this conviction, surround the concept of the way inextricably. I may have thought it overdone, but today for us, very, luckily, we discover it's a real thing.

    I was up late last night revising and reconsidering our plans. Brad's leg is not getting better, rather worse. This morning we went downstairs for breakfast to discuss options. Surprise, our Camino family crops up again, as I spot Uta chatting to a young man. She ended up in the municipal alberge across from us last night. They are discussing him taking a taxi to Redondela, as he has severe blisters. We suggest sharing, and Brad raises his pants leg to demonstrate why. The young man says "may I" and looks closer. Oh yes, he says authoritatively, you need antibiotics. That's cellulitis. I'm a doctor, and I can assure you, you need antibiotics.

    What are the chances? Young James,it turns out, is an Irish GP. He speaks Spanish too, and insists on taking the taxi with Brad to the pharmacy, in case he needs to write the necessary scrip.

    As Brad seems in very good hands, I'm going to set off solo. We're only about 15 km out from Redondela, so we book a hostel and arrange to meet there.

    How freeing, to be walking alone in the morning fog. I can hear my steps, and the birds, and little else. Even for a directionally challenged person like myself the Camino is easy. Follow the arrows, if you don't see any indication to the contrary, continue on as you are.

    I stop for a coffee and twist myself a little leaving, but sort it out within 50 metres or so. There are lots of pilgrims around me, many exchanged bon Caminos, but I'm happy to pace on on my own. It's luxurious, this time to think and experience and just be. I love that Brad is with me, absolutely, but there's an alchemy of a sort, when you are alone with your thoughts.

    I have a lot, many reasons this journey seems vital to me. So many threads in my life, of love and loss, grief, hope, anticipation, fears, family...I hope to weave them all into something I can comfortably wear.

    With my thoughts for company then, I climb rapidly then descend towards the bay that Redondela is situated beside. I run into a German couple we met in Valenca, they had seen Brad getting into a taxi in Mos and wondered what had happened. As they say, you can be alone but never really alone on the path.

    Entering Redondela, I come across a festival. Such crowds, music and busyness! There are incredible floral carpets constructed in the streets, and it's such a pleasure to wind through them, to the hostel. Where Tito the host tells me, as if we've known each other for ages, oh Brad's down at the restaurant, I just saw him there

    We receive an email from James, checking in on Brad as we head into town to catch the end of the days festival. Excited kids, families, music, dressed up older and younger couples, it's such a joy to walk along and just people watch!

    And last note of the day, we've met a woman, Beatrice from Wales, whose claim to fame is that her friends and choir members participated in the wedding episode of Gavin & Stacey, a UK show we really enjoyed - which also features a young James Cordon.    Read more

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