Samara is the scared one in the background, Alison is the one looking elegant on a camel. So far we have travelled 16 countries together, plus Tassie. Does Tassie count when you're an Aussie? Read more New South Wales, Australia
  • Day 41

    Copenhagen

    August 15, 2023 in Denmark ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Set in the heart of Copenhagen's busy shopping precinct is a 17th century tower with working observatory (though only for amateur astronomers nowadays). Climbing the spiral path to the top of The Round Tower (so named for obvious reasons) is an easy enough walk and we are rewarded with 360° views of the city on this glorious morning. We can even see all the way to Sweden! We spot all the places we visited yesterday and even have a hazy view of the Oresund Bridge to Malmo. I point out Frederiksberg Palace and Ronberg Castle to Samara but it's high up here and she'd need to move close to the edge. This kind of height definitely does NOT take her to her happy place! Still, it's a very nice place to soak it all up. Fun fact: the Round Tower is actually hollow, as discovered by a choir boy in 1880 when he fell into the core of the building while playing hide and seek. There is a thick glass panel over the hole today but you can still take a peak to the bottom. Samara didn't look down here either. Incidentally, the choir boy survived to seek (but perhaps not hide) another day.
    We wandered aimlessly but fondly around the streets until we were almost mowed down by more than a dozen of the Queen's guard on their way to Ronberg Castle. We followed them for a while, along with a hundred other people, marching in time and giggling, like a hundred other people. We left them after a few blocks to wander aimlessly but fondly around the city squares once again.
    Copenhagen is a stylish and historical city, mingled with new vibrancy. It has a strong cycle culture with bikes having right of way over every other mode of transport. It is supposed to be one of the happiest cities in the word and i don't doubt it with its long summer days, innate fitness and athleticism and high quality of living. Samara says it's very green, pretty and well maintained and I agree.
    So ... that's it for this adventure!! We fly home tomorrow after 6 weeks away to reacquaint ourselves with home life, family, friends, pets... and work. Thanks for joining us on our Neat Nordic Navigation 💜💜💜
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  • Day 40

    Day in Copenhagen

    August 14, 2023 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    A day of touristy sightseeing was had today, ticking off most of the boxes on this glorious summers day. Frederiksberg Slot (home of the Royal family) … check! Rosenberg Castle Gardens … check! The Little Mermaid … check! Kastellet Fortress … check! Frederiks Church … check! Christiansborg Palace … check! Nyhavn … check! The Opera House … check! (though nowhere near as lovely as ours!!) The Kings Garden … check! Copenhagen Zoo, well bits of it. We didn't go in but you could see bits from Frederiksberg Castle… so, check! City Hall Square (where we had lunch) … check! Gefion Fountain … check! There was more … various streets, churches (Samara saw the nicest church she'd ever seen today, the Frederiksberg Kirke and garden. Her words, not mine), architecture, lakes, canals and statues, statues, statues! Our feet are tired but we have one more day to catch all that we've missed and then we head home. Insert sad (but willing) face here...Read more

  • Day 39

    Rudkobiing to Copenhagen

    August 13, 2023 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We had big plans for today, namely prehistoric dolmens across the south lands, but Google maps caused us no end of navigational grief so we missed out on a few things. Ah well… I'd like to say "next time" but I don't think there'll be one in this neck of the woods 😉
    We did manage to take in two rather amazing things though, one new and man made and one eons old and made by the Great Earth Mother herself (with the help of a whopper of an asteroid).
    Set amongst the wheat fields on the island of Lolland, overlooking the archipelago, is a giant man made sculpture of human heads. Think Easter Island but by known, living sculptors. Dodekalitten (dodeca meaning twelve) is a series of enormous heads, each 7 to 9 metres high, all facing the centre of a 40m circle and interwoven with spacial, electronic (and somewhat tranquilising) music coming from speakers set within the groundstones. It represent a fictitious people who emigrated to the area and is yet incomplete. I wonder what people will think a thousand years from now … the views from the fields were beautiful.
    We spent some time walking the cliffs of Stevns Klint (Klint meaning cliff). These are white chalk cliffs, which hold geological evidence of the asteroid that struck the earth 65 million years ago, whiping out the dinosaurs and a bunch of other species. This evidence comes in the form of a layer of "fish clay" (I have no idea why is called fish clay) set within the layers of chalk and limestone on the cliff face. Interestingly, the stone here was also previously cut into blocks and used as building material, probably also including the fish clay. There is half a church on the cliff, the "choir" (that part of the building where the choir would gather) having fallen into the sea in 1928 along with part of the cemetery, resulting in coffins and skeletons sticking out of the cliff face and being strewn on the beach below. Apparently it was quite the tourist attraction at the time! The views here were great even without the corpses!
    We are now back in Copenhagen preparing for a couple of days of gentle sightseeing. Fingers crossed that the weather stays as perfect as it was today
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  • Day 38

    Esbjerg to Rudkobing

    August 12, 2023 in Denmark ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    The clouds were low and threatening as our road trip continued through some of the prettiest towns we've seen in Denmark. It was warm (by our winter temperature standards) and we optimistically donned shorts and T's … then raincoats! Again…
    First stop, Ribe! We got there early and, of course, everything was closed (nothing opens until 10 in Scandinavia). That was OK though … we were there for exploring (though I was a little disappointed the Hex Witch Hunt Museum wasn't open yet, if I'm honest.) Ribe is a really, really pretty place with terrace buildings of lovely colours, lovely gardens with wooden bridges and an old water wheel. Of course there were cathedrals and kirks but even I've had enough of religious architecture (Samara is happy about that!). Some of the buildings here are old - really old - but all are lovely.
    We took a stop in Sønderborg and wandered around eating ice cream, as you do. There's a large slot (castle) here, an old wooden windmill (a change from the very modern turbines throughout the country) and an opening bridge, allowing tall masted boats through regularly. A great spot on the beach, overlooking the German coast, to eat soft serve.
    We joined the queue for an expensive ferry ride across the Little Belt, a stretch of water between the islands of Als and Funen. The clouds hung low and the view was misty and rather murky (on a side note, I confused a poor fellow when I described the weather as murky the other day … not a common English word used for weather here in Denmark apparently). The trip took almost 50 minutes and was a relaxing mode of travel.
    The reason (or part thereof) of coming this way was to visit the 4000 year old tomb of King Humble. Yes … more gravesites!! Buried in a megalithic Long Barrow style grave, the King of Humble was laid to rest surrounded by 77 curb stones in a 55m by 8m mound with dolmen. The origins of this long barrow are lost in the mists of time, just like we were almost lost in the mists and mud of a cane field in the midst of a rainstorm! We weren't going to let a bit of rain beat us so we trudged across the paddocks, slipping hysterically in the mud, to find the dolmen in the paddock. It was a bit unkempt and the curb stones were almost obstructed by long grass but it was the only greenery in an otherwise yellow-filled paddock. The dolmen itself was a little underwhelming (Sam's words, not mine) but she did try it on for size (butt first!!). Due to the moishture (you can ask her about that word yourself!) she was only so willing to re-enact the ancient burial!
    My cute little white sneakers are no longer white and no longer cute, but we do love a good adventure … in the rain … and the mud. At least it wasn't windy!!! Our shoes are now drying (or trying hard to).
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  • Day 37

    Skagen to Esbjerg

    August 11, 2023 in Denmark ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We had another huge day of driving today but took a most scenic route from the north of Jutland to the south. A much more enjoyable drive than the motorways. We are stopping for the night in Esbjerg, a cute little coastal town overlooking the North Sea. We had lunch at the Men by the Sea sculpture, four 9 metre tall white concrete men who calmly sit and gaze out to sea. They represent the connection between man and nature as well as the encounter between civilization and sea. I think they were hand amputees but Sam saw three fingers carved (so maybe just digit amputees?). It wasn't quite Abu Simbel but it was a lovely lunch spot on a beautiful warm day nonetheless. We sat on the grassy bank and did our own gazing out to the island of Fanø and watched people at play in the shallow sandy waters of the bay.
    Esbjerg itself has evolved from a fishing town to a hub of oil and gas exploration and wind energy production. We've never seen so many wind turbines as on this drive south. I think they're really quite magestic. We happen to have arrived at the beginning of festival week where the town square has been transformed into party zone! We took a walk along the waterfront, ate ice cream and took in the local sights. We later enjoyed some time watching a Blues Brothers tribute band in the square. The beer was flowing and there was a lot of happy tapping of feet. Some of it was from me! I'm pretty sure I enjoy this kind of music more than Samara 😉
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  • Day 36

    Aarhus to Skagen

    August 10, 2023 in Denmark ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Well … you know how much I love a good stone circle and just how good a great ship circle is too. I'm also a fan of really old graveyards (reserve your judgement please!). Even better than that is when you see a whole lot of these things all in the same place!! Today we visited Lindholm Høje, an ancient burial site dating way back to the 400's AD. Middle age man (and woman, Stan) were laid to rest under mounds of soil and surrounded by stone circles here. There are almost 700 graves at Lindholm Høje, about 40 of which are internment graves not surrounded by stones. The rest are cremation graves where the deceased person was cremated on a pyre at the grave site, covered in mounds of earth and surrounded by stones. The women were surrounded by circular and oval shapes, the men in triangular and ship shapes. The oldest graves (middle ages era) are located at the top of the hill while the newer ones (Viking era to around 1000 AD) are at the bottom. Interestingly, the shapes of the stone circles didn't change over time. There is a veritable stone ship fleet here!!!
    From ancient times, the hills in this area have been shifting. Made almost completely of sand, the winds have been moving the dunes by up to 20m every year. As a consequence, this burial site was, itself, permanently buried under more than 4 metres of sand. Excavations began in 1952 to uncover the stone ship fleet.
    There is a good museum here which looks at the things found when excavation commenced as well as giving a history of the area, back to the stone age. Even Samara enjoyed it, especially the really old stuff. The sheep didn't want to play with her today though…
    We headed up to Skagen, the most northerly point in Denmark. On the way, we made a stop at Rubjerd Knude. We were heading there to take a peak at the lighthouse and the rugged northern coast. What we found were giant sand dunes and blasting winds which forced sand into places we didn't even know we had! The giant dunes of soft sand went straight up! Not a direction we wanted to go… instead, we skirted around the base of the dunes until we found a way through (can't go over it, can't go under it, can't go around it, have to go through it 🎼🎶🎵🎶) It was hard going in the brutal winds but we made it! We couldn't see much for our watering eyes and sand-battered faces though there was plenty of rubble from the old lighthouse keepers cottage, destroyed and swallowed by the shifting sands. I climbed the stairs to the top of the lighthouse but feared being picked up by the fierce winds and plunging to my death from the top! I didn't stay there long.
    Then into Skagen to see the crazy meeting of two seas. Here, at the northerly tip of Jutland, the Baltic Sea and the North Sea meet in a swirl of waves. At the end of the sandy peninsula, you can stand with one foot in either sea. Both are cold! There are old WW2 bunkers here, partially buried by all that sand, overlooked by the Grey Lighthouse (which you can climb and see something never seen before … sand!!!) We ended our evening of sightseeing with a visit to Den Tilsandede Kirke. The hint of the significance of this place is on the name - TilSANDdede. You guessed it, this pretty little church, once the largest in the entire region, has been almost completely covered by sand! Built in the 14th century, the sand migration of the 16th to 18th centuries almost completely covered this little gem in little grains of shifting grit. For a hundred years, the congregation had to dig their way into the church whenever they wanted to attend services. The struggle against the sand continued until 1795 when the church lost its battle against Mother Nature and, now, all that is left visible is the ancient tower. Samara was stoked to be visiting during an outdoor service, complete with brass band and hymns. We didn't stay long!
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  • Day 35

    Odense to Aarhus (Denmark)

    August 9, 2023 in Denmark ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Hans Christian Andersen would have to be one of the best known Danes in the world. We all know his fairy tales but did you know that he was also a novelist, a poet, a playwriting and an artist? He was born in Odense, in a little yellow house on the corner of a very poor part of town, the son of a shoemaker and a washerwoman. This part of town is as cute as a button today and where we spent our morning.
    The H.C. Andersen museum takes the form of a winding passage that leads you through the life of the author and ends in a series of fairy tale exhibits which explore his 12 most loved stories. There was a great collection of first editions and a series of his drawings and "scissor art" but the best bits were about his fairy tales … the little mermaid, the tin soldier, thumbelina, the princess and the pea, the ice queen and the emperor's new clothes (to name a few) were my favourites. We visited the house where he was born then took a stroll through the city to see the house where he grew up (both were yellow). It's a pretty city and there is much to honour the great story teller here.
    We took a long drive to a place called Jelling on the island of Jutland this afternoon to stand in the middle of Danish history. It was here that the name Denmark was first used (and recorded), being carved in runes on a Rune Stone by King Gorm in around 965 and it was also here that King Harald proclaimed to have Christianised the Danes. Jelling was the seat of Danish royalty in the day and King Gorm the Old (a bit rude…), with his son (later) King Harald Bluetooth (you'll recognise that name) will long be remembered for the Jelling Rune Stones which became the "baptism certificate of Denmark".
    The collection of Jelling monuments include these stones and two huge burial mounds (believed to be for King Gorm and his Queen, Thyra). Between the mounds is a working church, representing the christianisation of the Danes, the outline of an enormous stone ship circle as well as the remains of a huge trelleborg (external, wooden fortress with gates at each compass point). A fascinating place!
    About Harald Bluetooth … As it turns out, the engineer who was originally working on wireless technology connecting mobile phones and laptops, Jim Kardach, was a bit of a fan of Viking King Bluetooth. The logo that was chosen when the technology was established was a combination of the runic letters H (for Harald) and B (for Bluetooth). Such humble beginnings for such widespread technology.
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  • Day 34

    Jaegerspris to Odense (Denmark)

    August 8, 2023 in Denmark ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    For the most part, the rain stayed at bay today but the wind continued to howl, almost blowing us off the little pier at the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde!! In fact, a little boat in the bay spent the day upturned as the waves chopped up the fjord where waves are not normally seen.
    Roskilde, half an hour outside Copenhagen, was once the thriving capital of Denmark. Sitting on a perfect, and easily defendable spot on the fjord, it is home to five 1000 year old Viking ships (or bits thereof), the enormous Roskilde Cathedral plus parklands and cute streets. The Viking Ship Museum houses said original Viking ships all of which were deliberately scuttled in the defence of the nation. You see, there were three channels coming into the fjord deep enough to sail ships. One channel was ingeniously defended using a type of floating picket fence. Another was made too shallow for marauding boats by filling it with old, scuttled ships and the other was winding and required local knowledge to navigate safely. A clever defence plan. Five of the sunken vessels were retrieved and pieced together over several years and are now on display in Roskilde. The reconstruction of these lost ships gives us an insight into Viking boat design, boat building and sailing and they call this "experimental archeology". It was fascinating. We were supposed to be part of the crew in a sail on the big reconstructed war vessel but ... the weather...
    We took a country drive to The Land of Legends, an outdoor museum showing Danish life during the stone age, the iron age, the Viking Age and medieval times. It was pretty cool. Like other open air museums, actors played their part in showing what life was like during each era. We had a great chat to a stone age man whose little reed hut had gained some new holes after yesterday's stormy weather. The museum also had a life sized replica of a stone ship circle, similar to the one we saw at Ales Stenar in Sweden. The actual ship circle is a few kilometres away but not always available to see. Samara was happy to feed and pat the geese, tickle goats and try to pet sheep. Did I mention she was nipped on the nose by a puppy this morning?
    We drove from Zealand across the Great Belt Bridge to Odense on the island of Funen late this afternoon. This is a massive combination suspension and low level bridge connecting the islands, and is 18km long (speed limit 110). There's a hefty toll for this impressive structure of some $70 AUD but it makes the travel easy. Again, there were wind mills rising up from the water in the middle of the straight. We are exhausted…
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  • Day 33

    Copenhagen to Jaegerspris (Denamerk)

    August 7, 2023 in Denmark ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    The weather gods are not happy at all today and the day was foul and ferocious. The wind howled and the rain slashed sideways, hedges rippled and road puddles made the driving hazardous. Samara said it was an "un-joyable" day! "Such groans of roaring winds and rain" said Shakespeare in King Lear, which was appropriate because of the weather and because we went to Kronburg Castle, also known as Hamlets Castle, though Hamlet and King Lear never met.
    Kronborg is a renaissance castle and stronghold of the town of Helsingor, made famous by Will Shakespeare as the setting for Hamlet. The Castle has been here since 1420 but, like most things we've found, it burnt down and had to be rebuilt in 1574. It sits at the head of the Oresund Sound and, on a clear day, you can see Sweden. In fact, despite the gale-force winds, pelting rain and high seas, we actually could still see the outline of the Swedish coast!
    Holgar the Dane sits sleeping in the crypts below the castle, waiting for the day that Denmark is in trouble when he will rise up and defend her. That could have been today with the brutal weather!! Kronborg contains an impressive chapel, an amazing Great Hall and decorated rooms of then King and Queen Fred and Sophie, who was 24 years his junior. (there have been a lot of King Frederik's over the years). She was 14 when they wed! Dirty old bugger!!
    We tried to have a wander around Helsingor but the weather broke us…
    We drove out to Fredensborg Palace, a favourite home of the Danish royal family. They were currently in residence so we couldn't visit but it was still hammering down so we didn't mind staying in the car. I braved the weather to try and have a look at the gardens to no avail…
    So, we headed to Frederiksborg Castle - I told you there were a lot of Frederik's!! Now this was a beauty! It's been restored and is now a natural history museum and gives a great Danish history through portraiture, furniture and design through the era's. We listened to the audio app as a self guided tour and even Samara was engrossed. Not once did she complain about being in another *#@*$'ing museum! The chapel here was impressive, the art work amazing (though our interpretation was quite a bit different to that in our audio) and the painted and 3D ceilings rivalled that at Versailles. The only thing we didn't like was the modern art section (though the portraits of the current royals, including Crown Princess Mary, were really quite good).
    We chilled in our B&B early this evening to dry out and cheer over the Aussie world cup victory over Denmark!! (Well, me anyway…) Go girls!!
    If this weather continues, please send thoughts and prayers!
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