Denmark
Capital Region

Here you’ll find travel reports about Capital Region. Discover travel destinations in Denmark of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

316 travelers at this place:

  • Day814

    Hornbæk beach

    September 18 in Denmark

    The sun warms our skin as the three of us sit on Hornbæk beach, on the Northwest corner of Zealand, looking out over the straights to Sweden.

    As we left the region of Copenhagen, the sights slowly became more rural and increasingly pleasing to our eyes. Reaching the coast we pulled into a car park on the edge of a town called Elsinore for a bite of lunch. It was only as we were packing up that Will asked Vicky whether she wanted to go and take a photo of the Swedish mainland accross the water! With all the islands and fjords we've been passing she hadn't realised the landmass over the channel was Sweden; it was so close she could hardly believe it was even when she was standing there with the camera. Ferries go regularly between here and the Swedish port of Helsingborg. We ourselves returned from our tour of Sweden and Norway via this route almost exactly a year ago.

    From Elsinore we travelled north, passing a flurry of cute beach cabins, just big enough for two people to sit, their vertical wooden wall planks striped white and bright red, blue or green. Open beaches were interspersed with deciduous woodland plantations and there were so many parking areas signed in these that we lost count. Ours was a long clearing backed by trees and separated from the soft sand beach by low dunes covered in shrub roses, still sporting the odd fragrent, cerise petalled flower.

    Poppy loves to sunbathe and now September is here and the rays have lost some of their summer intensity, we felt it was safe for her to lie on the sand in the gentle breeze until she was too tired to do it any more. Vicky sat with her and knitted while Will swam. There were a handful of other visitors enjoying the fine day, walking their dogs, taking a dip or simply soaking up the Vitamin D. The water is losing its heat now so Will wore his short wetsuit when he went out snorkelling. He discovered some amazing nature below the waves, passing through a misty patch that he initially thought was algae, only to realise it was a shoal of thousands of tiny fish. Long green weeds waved in the current and he found several starfish and the odd crab alongside small groups of larger fish. From the shore Vicky was vaguely aware of a fluorescent orange float bobbing around. It eventually bobbed to land attached to a neoprene clad diver holding a spear gun! We are still shocked to see such weapons weilded in public, but they seem to be increasingly common, on the continent at least.

    By the end of the day 4 other vans had arrived, all of them smaller than Martha. They parked directly in front of the access point to the beach and opened their back doors taking out chairs, tables and bbqs, despite the no camping sign. People in cars needed to park further away and weave past these vans to get to the sand. Perhaps we are overly cautious but we will always try to make sure we don't park in other people's way and respect the prohibition signs, just grateful for the opportunity to park overnight. There are many places, especially in the UK where this has been banned and we tend to think that it is for this reason.
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  • Day811

    A night out in Copenhagen!

    September 15 in Denmark

    Visiting Denmark's capital city was a must. As such we'd decided on a Saturday night out and a 'City Sunday'. Vicky had researched the sights in the Lonely Planet and Will had researched possibilities for parking. There was on street parking close to the centre that was free after 5pm on Saturdays through to 8am on Mondays. It was even next to parkland, meaning Poppy would be happy. It looked too good to be true and we set off with our fingers crossed and a backup in the sat nav, hoping we'd be able to find a space.

    Copenhagen is located on Zealand's East coast, on the shores of the Baltic Sea. On the city outskirts we passed by a sandy beach and lagoon where people were relaxing and trying their hand at windsurfing. As we progressed the low rise blocks were well spaced and there were more grassy areas than we would have expected in a major city. Although cars were numerous, they didn't fill the streets. Instead, thousands of cyclists flowed along the wide bike lanes, giving way to pedestrians as vehicles gave way to them. We were beginning to like Copenhagen!

    As luck would have it, we parked with relative ease alongside some embassy mansions in Østerbro (Eastern Borough). We had the road on our left side and the right sided van door opened onto a cycle track, but hop accross this and a walkway ran adjacent to the green parkland surrounding Kastellet (The Citadel); old military barracks built on a star shaped island within a moat. Brilliant!

    We'd planned to eat in the van then head out for the evening, but our curiosity got the better of us and we set off to scope out the area before we ate. Maps.Me told us that the famous statue, Den Lille Havfrue, was just the other side of the Kastellet grounds so we skirted through the parkland around the perimeter. Weeping willows hung over the moat and Moorhens strutted in their dappled shadows. What a great way to start our exploration of the city! Arriving at the estuary the first point of interest was the Copenhill waste to energy plant on the opposite bank. A modern, metal and glass construction, it had a roof that sloped at about 25°, and provided a recreation space for the public. This roof was planted with vegetation and open for people to relax and picnic on in the summer and ski on in winter! We were too far away for a visit but it was intersting to see all the same.

    From here we shuffled the short distance to Langelinje Pier where a crowd of foreign tourists had assembled to see Den Lille Havfrue or The Little Mermaid bronze statue that is one of Copenhagen's icons. A gift to the city from the Danish brewer Carl Jacobsen, son of the founder of Carlsberg brewery, the sculpture was created by Edvard Eriksen and based on the fairy tale by Hans Christian Andersen, who lived and wrote in the city.

    Conscious of time, we made our way back, taking the more direct route, crossing the moat and cutting through the Kastellet barracks, along the uneven cobbled road between two imposing rows of regimented windows set into the earth red walls of long multistory buildings. Two armed soldiers passed us at the far end, off on a march along the grassy ramparts.

    After a quick tea we got our glad rags on (well, Will changed his shirt) and we headed out towards Rundetårn, Europe's oldest functioning observatory tower. It was open the latest of all the towers and Vicky thought it might be a good vantage point to see the early evening lights of Copenhagen. Unfortunately our visit to The Little Mermaid and tour of the Kastellet had pushed back our timings and the clock was striking 8pm as we arrived, signalling that the tower was now closed. Never mind, we got to take in the atmosphere and get a feel for the city along the way. There were people out and about and the city certainly had life, it just wasn't in your face like in many major urban areas. Neon lights of advertising hoardings didn't assail your eyes from every direction, music didn't blast from bars, instead the self confident buzz of Copenhagen was there for you to seek out.

    The weather forecast hadn't predicted rain but as we arrived at the tower, the heavens opened. The downpour came on quickly and was intense, so we ducked under the marquee of a nearby bar, whose space heaters gave off a warming glow. It didn't look like it would abate anytime soon so we nipped in and settled ourselves, organic Tuborgs in hand, on the high metal chairs at a black and red painted table bearing the name of the establishment; Lo-Jo's Social. It was a hipster place with various abstract murals and slogans on the walls and a decent vibe. We thought it was a nice touch to have a tapped demi-john for you to help yourself to water.

    After the cloudburst had moved on, so did we. On the way we crossed the Sankt Jørgens lake and became mesmerised by the gorgeous warm white lights lining the basin. To complete the scene, a crescent moon hung low and large, reflecting back off the water together with the shining street lights. We joined a few others who'd stopped to take photos.

    A little further on and we arrived at a bar whose drinks were supposed to be a little less pricey. Copenhagen is famous for beer, but recently there has been a boom in cocktail bars and Kassen (The Box) offered them at a little over £10. We knew it wasn't going to be a cheap night out but our spirits were lifted when the bartender told us it was 2 for 1 until 10pm! Yey! Vicky ordered two vodka based Red Pearl Necklaces with fresh orange and passion fruits and Will two bourbon based Happy Endings with fresh mint and the absinthe burned off. When living in a house we used to keep enough spirits to make cocktails ourselves, but can't afford the space and weight in the van, especially considering we each have very different tastes. It just makes coming out for cocktails all the more fun! Kassen was busier and noisier than Lo-Jo's, with standing room only. We were quite happy to prop ourselves against the bar and watch the concoctions being prepared! Will followed his first two up with a couple of Campari sodas and we made our way back to Poppy, the streets more orderly and quiet than those of many other capitals on a Saturday night. It had been a great evening and we were excited about exploring the city in the daylight tomorrow.
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  • Day812

    A day out in Copenhagen!

    September 16 in Denmark

    After yesterday's evening out we allowed ourselves a relaxed get up and spent a little time planning the day ahead. We were conscious of not leaving Poppy for too long, so didn't set off until nearly 11am to explore Copenhagen in the daylight.

    For a capital, it is relatively compact so despite the excellent cycling provision, we left the bike behind. Passing row upon row of stately terraced mansions, the three gleaming, golden onion domes of Alexander Nevsky Russian Orthodox church stood out. It was a sunny morning and the light showed them off well. A few streets further on was
    the front of the Marble Church, pale stone columns rose up and the solid square building supported a large copper green dome. Copenhagen is filled with food for the eyes such as these sights. It was exciting to discover them but they were far enough apart not to compete with each other.

    The first port of call (pardon the pun) was Nyhavn canal. Trees grew around the basin and at its head, low wide tour boats, many of them electric, were being loaded with sightseers. The sides were lined with beautiful wooden boats, their masts reaching skyward. The area was pedestrianised and bordered by tall town houses, their facades painted in earthy reds, yellows, blues and greens. A uniform row of classy cream restaurant gazebos ran along the sunny side and people sat out soaking in the sunshine where they could. At the other end we discovered two glass and metal geodesic domes, with a small door sign announcing 'free art'. We ducked inside the first, which gave us access to the main space, which just blew our minds! The dome, including was made of large hexagonal and pentagonal panes of glass, some of them mirrors, some painted like colourful galaxies of mainly purple, blue and black. The wavey mirrored floor tiles tessalated so wherever you looked, yourself and the galaxies were repeated ad infinitum. We lay on our backs and grinned like kids in a sweetshop!

    Next on our city adventure was one of the most amazing towers we've ever seen. We'd caught a glimpse of it when driving in yesterday and had been excited to climb it ever since. At 95m Vor Frelsers Kirke tower wasn't the tallest we'd been up, but of its 400 steps, the final 150 spiralled around the outside of its spire, with only a golden banister separating climbers from the drop! After a short queue we were off up the wooden staircase clinging to the square walls inside the tower. We squeezed by those descending and passed a few floors with fenced off artefacts such as white stone cherubs and a bizarre eagle whose spread wings supported china teapots and cups! We weren't to be distracted though and after a while emerged onto the outside viewing platform. From here, bronze plated steps worn smooth by the footfall, curved round and up the narrow cone. Holding onto the rail we ascended the final 150 steps. It felt incredibe to be in the open air looking down with a cooling breeze and the sun shining on the tiled rooves below, making their colours pop! The steps finally petered out into a point and we were both lucky enough to stand on the final step. It would have been very difficult for larger groups because there was so little room to squeeze past each other.

    By this time our tummies were rumbling and we quickly covered the short distance between the church and an area of Copenhagen called Christiania. An ex military baracks, Christiania has been described as a social experiment. In the 1970s hippies took over the area as a squat and despite several attempts to evict them, a community grew up that perseveres to this day. The 750-1000 residents live lives based on an anarchist society. Over the years, relations with Copenhagen's successive councils have brought changes such as the community paying installments to purchase the land; there is no individual ownership, despite attempts by the outside authorities to impose this. Christiania pays tax and in return gets services such as waste disposal. Regardless of the police squads patrollng several times a day, Marijuana is smoked freely. Depending on the political climate, the outside authorities sometimes allow it to be sold on 'Pusher Street' as a way of keeping the drug trade in one place within the city. When in the past they have stopped the sale, the market was driven into the outlying areas with associated violence between rival gangs. After several deaths from overdose, hard drugs are not tolerated by the Christianites. Passing a large mural and a busker singing American Folk, we entered this semi autonomous area. Art and graffiti, covered the walls and furniture from reclaimed materials was scattered around. Beyond a couple of cafés and art galleries our course was diverted by a police cordon. They had evacuated and sealed off a central area and were searching it, looking underneath wooden planters and shifting stalls where residents had been trading. We continued to a market selling clothing, jewellery and nik naks with food vans around the outside. We bought chips, a veggie burger and falafels in pitta and took them to the brightly painted wooden picnic tables in the main eating area. A mix of tourists and Christianites sat around and weed scented the air as we ate. A small flock of sparrows perched eagerly on our table, darting in and pinching our fries whenever they saw a chance! Dogs roamed loose but behaved well and we appreciated the free spirited, creative vibe.

    On the way back to the van we dropped into the Overgåden art gallery. The guidebook had said it sometimes hosted photography displays and Vicky in particular was interested in seeing these, but sadly there were only two exhibitions, one of abstract painting and the other of sewn silk images. We are sure many people would have appreciated them, but they didn't hold our interest and we left before long.

    After making sure Poppy was doing ok and resting our tired legs we made our way to Torvehallerne. Literally translated as Square Halls, the two glass panelled market halls had a modern, clean cut and orderly feel to them. One focussed on meats, fish and eateries, while the other sold artisan chocolates, loose teas and specialist foods. The space between them was occupied by more traditional fruit and veg stalls. We looked around and being at the tail end of the day, perhaps our hearts weren't in it, but three adjectives to describe the Torvehallerne came to mind; pretty, pretentious and pricey. Let's just say we weren't enamoured!

    Call us lightweights but cutting back through the Botanical Gardens, we found we didn't have the enrergy to visit the palmhouse or the butterfly gardens that were advertised and instead made our weary way back to the van. The road we were parked on hadn't been too busy but we expected this to change on Monday morning. Will hadn't got much rest last night so we decided to drive out of the city to somewhere quieter.

    We had really enjoyed Copenhagen, so much so that we'd exhausted ourselves exploring it. A slight downside is that although the bike lanes are brilliant, most of the roads still have vehicles flowing along them and the pavements are just a bit too narrow for you to walk side by side and pass oncoming pedestrians, meaning one of us was often trudging behind the other. It is a very clean city with a quiet liveliness to it and lots of exciting and beautiful sights to see. Although a little more expensive than many European cities, it is a great place to visit and comes close to the top of our list, although it doesn't topple our favourite capital, which is still Ljubljana in Slovenia.
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  • Day813

    Hakkemosen

    September 17 in Denmark

    Hakkemosen is the refuge we have sought 40km from the centre of Copenhagen. Considering it is on the edge of an industrial estate it manages to feel very rural, despite the distant drone of traffic from the surrounding motorways and the occasional clangs of heavy machinery. It is bordered by woodland and has a large open green with picnic tables and a fire pit surrounded by four, substantial, well used logs arranged in a square. Paths of cut grass lead off into the woods and if you follow them you'll come to a lake as pretty as any you'd find out in the wilds. Signs of the city are however present at the small car park we are staying in for two nights. A blackened patch and broken glass indicate a car has been burned out and a large enclosed blue metal rubbish skip sits behind us.

    We came straight from a day exploring the capital. Although it is a fantastic place we breathed a sigh of relief to be away from the city lights. Neither of us felt like moving on in the morning so Will headed to the lake with his fishing gear and Vicky stayed in, catching up with the blog and doing a bit of cleaning and clothes washing. She'd found an article that said you could use conkers as a laundry detergent and as the green was lined with Horse Chestnut trees, their leaves turning brown and curling and their shiny mahogany coloured fruit splitting its spiky green pods, she went foraging! Taking 6 conkers she chopped and then heated them in water, before poured the liquid through a sieve into the clothes washing barrel with a few drops of eucalyptus oil. It seemed to work just as well as the soap nut mixture she normally makes and was free!

    She was glad she collected the conkers first thing because a class of young children arrived with a large bucket and went around picking every one they could find, their teachers even going so far as to hit the branches with sticks to dislodge more! It was lovely to watch them scampering around; children in a lot of countries we have travelled in seem to have more freedom than they do in the UK schools. As well as the little ones there were 16 teenagers with an adult. They arrived on bikes and spent the morning doing activities in the woods. Four of them erected a small modern wig wam and chopped wood unsupervised to make a fire for when the others came back for lunch. With their freedom, we get the impression that children are expected to be more responsible and they seem to live up to this challenge.

    Will's morning at the lake extended to half past 2 when Vicky marched over and fetched him for his lunch after he didn't answer his phone. She did let him go back after ensuring his call volume was turned up! He found it really peaceful there and the perfect come down from our Copenhagen adventure.
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  • Day30

    Sooooo many steps!!

    July 17, 2017 in Denmark

    So this morning we walked the bell tower/spire of the beautiful Lutheran 'The Church of our Saviour'. There were 400 yes that's 400 and just to reiterate that- 400 steps up to the top and then 400 coming down! Views from the top worth it as you see all over Copenhagen, including Sweden in the distance - connected by a bridge. The spire at the top is black and gold. When we finished the church was open and the organist was practising on the pipe organ- magnificent. (Even though I could hardly walk at that stage!)Read more

  • Day41

    Copenhagen - Christiania

    July 17, 2017 in Denmark

    Forgot to mention we went to Christiania on our last day. It is a self-proclaimed autonomous neighborhood of about 850 residents, covering 84 acres in the borough of Christianshavn. Christiania has been a source of controversy since its creation in a squatted military area in 1971. Its cannabis trade was tolerated by authorities until 2004. In the years following 2004, measures for normalizing the legal status of the community led to conflicts, police raids and negotiations. The people in Christiania have developed their own set of rules, independent of the Danish government. The rules forbid stealing, violence, guns, knives, bulletproof vests, hard drugs and bikers' colors. Famous for its main drag, known as Pusher Street where hash and skunk weed were sold openly from permanent stands until 2004, it nevertheless does have rules forbidding 'hard drugs'.

    There was definitely something in the air when we were there....and I was asked to put my phone camera back in my bag by a mysterious man hiding behind a tree!! Very interesting place.
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  • Day27

    Hello Copenhagen, Denmark!

    July 14, 2017 in Denmark

    Left Croatia this morning to fly to Denmark. Copenhagen is so much cooler!! Although raining at the moment. First glimpses of 'Wonderful, Wonderful Copenhagen'. Hans Christian Anderson. Tivoli Gardens, what seems like thousands of bikes everywhere, but still to catch up with Princess Mary! Nearly 9.00 at night and still very light. Major sightseeing to start tomorrow! Evie- another country for your pin board.Read more

  • Day41

    Copenhagen - Church of Our Saviour

    July 17, 2017 in Denmark

    Headed off today with a mission for our last day in Copenhagen - climb the 400 steps to the top of the Church of Our Saviour. The last 150 stairs are on the outside and offer the best views of Copenhagen. Mission accomplished! The church is also noted for its carillon which is the largest in Northern Europe and plays melodies every hour.Read more

  • Day41

    Copenhagen - Tivoli Gardens

    July 17, 2017 in Denmark

    We had also saved the last day for our visit to Tivoli Gardens, Copenhagen's famous amusement park and garden. It is beautiful, well designed and has a great atmosphere. Although we didn't go on the rides it was a lot of fun watching others flying to dizzying heights or upside down. The gardens are such a pleasure to look at and be in, especially on a beautiful sunny day as it was today.Read more

You might also know this place by the following names:

Region Hovedstaden, Capital Region, Hovedstaden, Huvudstadsregionen

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