Marcus Gillette

Crescent mountain ranges give way to fertile hillsides as they cast dramatic shadows across farm valleys. We gaze upon the surrounding terrain as we approach Capetown by air.

Once aboard, we drop our bags and prepare to depart swiftly before Zuiderdam repositions to another berth. Before we do, I spot fisherman undressing on deck aboard a Chinese ship astern. Some are showering outdoors to remove a few layers of penetrating stench from a long fishing contract. Even we can smell it from our balcony.

Together with Bill, we walk along the wharf which smells and feels like the familiar Seattle waterfront. Choirs singing traditional African music for dancers blend appropriately into the young aspiring guitar-playing songwriters giving us their best. We find a pub and run into fellow passengers shortly thereafter who join for an evening of drinks and stories.

The next day, after a futile attempt at recovering my lost pair of earphones, we venture to The Chef’s Warehouse at Beau Constantia. Beautiful tree-lined winding roads carry us up into the foothills to prime wine country. We arrive to a setting so spectacular we glance at each other without saying a word.

Transported on a magnificent culinary adventure, we are delighted by coal roasted tomato mille-feuille made from coconut paper. The tasting menu is simply titled ‘From the Garden.’ Yet we are tantalized by the savory and tangy Vietnamese Nem topped with sesame cream followed by Paratha featuring pickled oyster mushrooms with BBQ tofu purée. Each course brings textures and flavors of elements unfamiliar, like Ras El Hanout dressing. Each is intentionally paired with gorgeous South African wine. We are left feeling that our short stay hardly scratches the surface of what Capetown offers and that we must return one day soon.Read more