Bilbao Spain

Mei - Juni 2023
This vacation trip started on Tuesday, May 23, 2023, in Bilbao with a group of friends, intending to explore the North Coast of Spain, including the coastal mountains, and the Rioja wine region. The trip ended in Bilbao on June 17th. Baca selengkapnya
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  • Hari 25

    Navarrete - Derio - Bilbao

    16 Juni 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    We woke up to a beautiful day with sunshine and blue sky, although the weather App indicated a 30% chance of rain.

    After a lavish breakfast buffet at the hotel, we loaded the van. We navigated through more of Rioja’s vineyards to the winery of Marqués de Riscal in Elciego, where Spanish architect Frank Gehry designed the winery’s hotel. It looked modern and a little crazy, similar to the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. A tour of the winery and hotel was only available in the afternoon for €20 per person. But the wine and gift shop was open and friendly to visitors. Kurt decided to circle the winery in our van to the top of a hill with a vineyard from where we saw the crazy Gehry creation. The side of the hotel and roof have colorful bent sheet metal. See the photos below.

    Next, we drove to the Ysios winery, which Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava designed. The wave-like building blends perfectly into the Rioja landscape and the nearby Sierra de Cantabria mountain range.

    With the satisfaction of seeing two unique places, we headed on route A-2124 toward our hotel in Bilbao. Along the way, we had a drink and a quick bite in Vitoria-Gasteiz.

    We are staying at the Holiday Inn Express at the Bilbao Airport tonight. Our flight to Madrid leaves at 9:10 AM tomorrow. Our friends Kurt & Renata are waiting for one more day and are flying back to Zurich, Switzerland, on Sunday the 18th.

    This concludes a most memorable trip through Northern Spain. We had a wonderful time and experienced something special every day. Thank you, Kurt & Renata, for taking us along on this fantastic journey of 1,675 miles!
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  • Hari 24

    Haro - Rioja - Navarrete

    15 Juni 2023, Spanyol ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    Renata was feeling much better after breakfast. We had a fantastic day today!

    The goal for today was to experience the Rioja wine country. We didn’t plan to follow a specific route. The only thing we kept in mind was moving toward Navarrete, where we are staying tonight.

    It was very relaxing to drive a little slower and focus our attention on the incredible views and the beauty of the landscape. Kurt veered off the main road and used narrow gravel roads that led through the vineyards. The vines have many young shoots (light green color), and the grapes are in a tiny developing stage. The grape vines look very healthy, as does all the vegetation that we see here in northern Spain. We see tractors with blowing devices busy spraying the vines with insecticides. We notice that farmers occasionally plant barley between the grape fields.

    The winery of Eugene Ugarte on route N-232a was an exciting place where we spent about 1 hour exploring and walking the entire property, which included grapes processing, fermentation storage, restaurant, gift shop, and hotel. The grounds were kept immaculately - everything was spotless - very impressive. Ursula purchased a bottle of Grappa and Kurt a bottle of wine as souvenirs.

    The drive to the wine capital La Guardia was only 20 minutes. Kurt found a great parking space behind the church. Restaurante Biazeri had outdoor tables shaded under chestnut trees where we stopped for lunch for wine, beer, pintxos, and coffee. The wine region attracts more tourism than the coastal towns we visited earlier. Restaurant and hotel prices are almost double.

    Hotel San Camilo, 1-mile outside of Navarrete, was easy to find, and our dinner at the Restaurant Sala in town was unforgettable. The owner, Tatjana, immigrated 20 years ago from Romania and treated us like family. What a nice dinner and evening to end our vacation in Spain.

    Tomorrow will be our last day. We plan to visit two close-by wineries. One was designed by Santiago Calatrava, and the other by Frank Gehry.
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  • Hari 23

    Haro, Rioja

    14 Juni 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Today did not go according to plan.

    Renata was not feeling well (upset stomach) and preferred to stay in bed this morning. Kurt met us alone for breakfast and decided to stay with Renata at the hotel and get some bananas and medication.

    Ursula and I took the van and drove to an area of town with large Bodegas (wine cellars) of well-known winemakers.

    Bodega Muga was the first showroom we visited. It looked adorable and sophisticated. Unfortunately, all the tasting tables were occupied, and since we didn't have a reservation, the wait time would have been about 30 minutes. In addition, the tours to visit the winery were booked out for the day. Thus, we decided to try other places.

    At our next target, Gómez Cruzado, the place was not too busy, and we were promptly seated at a small table in front of rows and rows of new oak wine barrels. We ordered a tasting of five Rioja red wines. It was served with mini toasts soaked in olive oil (to clear our palate between each sample). Our waiter was fantastic and explained each wine clearly, how it differed from the previous one, and the different ways of storing it during fermentation. Stainless Steel or concrete containers are used to keep wine "honest" about how the grapes taste, as opposed to New, and French oak barrels, which add certain flavors.

    Wine #1 - 2022 Rioja of 65% Garnacha, and 45% Tempranillo. It was stored for six months in special pear-shaped concrete containers. We rated it as a #5 on a scale from 1-10.

    Wine #2 - 2017 Viña Porana, 60% Tempranillo, and 40% Garnacha. It was aged two years in French oak barrels from the Southern Rioja region. We rated it as a #6. It was smoother than the previous one.

    Wine #3 - 2017 Honorable, 90% Tempranillo, blended with 10% of 3 other kinds of grapes from the northern region. It was fermented for 18 months in new oak barrels. We rated it a #6+ with solid flavors (excellent to drink with red meat).

    Wine #4 - 2016 Pancrudo (named after the highest Rioja mountain), 100% Garnacha. Single Vinyard. Aged one year in the concrete container. We rated it a #7+.

    Wine #5 - 2011 Gran Reserva. 70% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha. Fermented for four years in French oak barrels. It was very nice and smooth. We rated it an #8+.

    The next Bodegas we visited were López de Heredia, La Rioja Alta, and Manzanos Haro. By 1:45 PM, we felt a little hungry and returned to Bodega Muga for lunch. A glass of Rosé with bread, olives, ham, and sausage was just what the doctor ordered! Yummy. Our waiter was wearing a €36,000 authentic Rolex Deepsea.

    Renata had somewhat recovered by the time we got back to the hotel, and we all decided to go for a stroll through the old town and up to a lookout point from where we could see the river and wine country. It was a warm afternoon, and not a cloud in the sky.

    Tonight's dinner was at the Restaurant Los Caños, within walking distance. Good Rioja, tomato salad, grilled leaks, french fries, eggs w/mushrooms, entrecote, expresso coffee, and the best cheesecake ever!

    We plan a drive through the Rioja wine region tomorrow to our booked Hotel San Camilo in Navarrete, Rioja.
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  • Hari 22

    Burgos - Logroño - Haro

    13 Juni 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Today's trip was first through Spain's beautiful countryside with field after field of agriculture. Then the windy routes BU-820 and BU-825 took us on a 50-mile tour through the lush mountains with views of several dammed lakes until we reached the city of Logroño.

    We stopped in a small village for a coffee and bathroom break. More people entered the coffee bar but strangely didn't behave in the usual happy Spanish way. Ursula guessed that they probably came to assemble here after a funeral. Her instinct was correct, as a local gentleman later confirmed - it was a 78-year-old man that had passed away.

    We were met with a heavy 90-minute rain downpour in the middle of the mountains. Kurt needed to drive slower and use caution. Several motorcycle and bicycle riders got soaking wet.

    We are now in the Rioja region with its endless vineyards.

    Logroño is a stop on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. The Cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda has twin baroque towers, an elaborate facade, and an image attributed to Michelangelo. The Cubo del Revellín fortress connects to remnants of the old city wall. Leafy Ebro Park has views of the Ebro River, its arched Stone Bridge, and its 19th-century Iron Bridge. We didn't stay in Logroño for very long. We just had a coffee and a bite to eat. The Tourist Office gave us all the information we needed for tomorrow's visit to the wineries and tasting.

    We are staying at the Hotel Plaza for the next two nights. Our balcony views the Plaza de la Paz in the small wine city of Haro, about 20 minutes North of Logroño.
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  • Hari 21

    Leon - Burgos

    12 Juni 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    The check-out time was at noon today, which gave us a few more hours to explore the old town of León after breakfast. We intended to visit the Museo Botines Gaudí and the Museum of Modern Art. However, the exhibitions were not what we had expected.

    The drive from León to Burgos on routes A-60 and A-231 was lovely. The sun was out, and the sky was slightly cloudy. The landscape was mostly flat, with many agricultural fields to the left and right as far as the eye could see.

    The hotel receptionist in León accommodated us in making reservations at their sister Hotel in Burgos, which was easy to find. It's in a good location and within walking distance of the old town center. The Camino de Santiago runs through Burgos, which has a population of about 180,000. It was founded in 884 and controlled by the Romans in the 11th century.

    The main attraction in Burgos is the Cathedral Santa Maria on the Plaza Rey Fernando. It is considered one of the most beautiful and the largest in the world. After a quick tapas lunch, I visited the Cathedral with Kurt while our ladies took a break in the nearby park.

    Construction of the basic Cathedral began in 1221 and was expanded over the next 200 years by different builders, and many artists influenced its style. It is the most massive Cathedral I have ever visited. The columns' size and the arches' height were terrific, as were the sculptures, golden ornaments, and wood carvings. See attached pictures.

    We plan to return to Plaza Rey Fernando tonight for a drink at a Vermouth Bar mentioned in our travel guide and dinner at a Pizza restaurant.
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  • Hari 20

    Ponferrada - Peñalba - León

    11 Juni 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    What a hassle! Iberia canceled our flight Bilbao-Madrid for June 19th. I spent 1-hour this morning on the phone between American Airlines and Iberia to book new flights and get seat assignments. Our return to the US is scheduled for June 17th, one day shorter than planned, with an estimated arrival in Dallas at 3:56 PM.

    Before departing Ponferrada, we walked to town and had coffee and pastries at a unique bakery Kurt spotted last night on our walk home.

    Around 10 AM, we headed for the nearby mountains for some hiking. The narrow, windy road quickly gained altitude, and the pressure in our ears needed several adjustments. After a 40-minute drive, we reached the cute mountain hamlet of Peñalba. The streets were cobblestone. The houses are built of local stone with slate roofs and wooden balconies.

    Peñalba was born years ago by a small community of monks from the south. They used a cave about 4 miles away, on the other side of the Valley of Silence, for meditation. It was this cave that we planned to hike to today.

    It was a beautiful hike in pure nature. On the way, we passed small vegetable gardens and apple, pear, plum, and cherry orchards and met two ladies with baskets filled with freshly picked Chanterelles mushrooms. I greeted a Chinese hiker lady with a friendly Nǐ hǎo (Hello) and earned a big smile! The cave was relatively small, with a couple of steps leading to a platform with an Altar.

    Peñalba had a restaurant where we stopped to drink and eat before descending to Ponferrada and taking Hwy #6 to León. Our hotel for tonight is the Crisol Quindos, about 1.2 miles from the town center.

    Dinner tonight was at La Bodega del Húmedo, which was recommended to us by a couple from León whom we met earlier in Peñalba. The food was OK, but we were not overly impressed with our ordered dishes.

    Overall - another great day in northern Spain.
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  • Hari 20

    Lugo - Ponferrada

    11 Juni 2023, Spanyol ⋅ 🌙 61 °F

    Once again, the breathtaking landscape stretches endlessly, adorned with lush green hills and valleys that extend as far as the eye can see, devoid of any visible houses.

    Approaching Ponferrada, the scenery evolves, showcasing hills adorned with vineyards and fruit orchards that dot the spaces between the mountains. These charming farms and houses gradually cluster into quaint villages.

    Up to this point, our journey has been graced by impeccably maintained local roads and highways, complete with clear signage and directional indicators.

    The vibrant yellow hue that catches your attention is the flourishing Scotch Broom, adorning our path as we ascend to the pilgrim statue atop the lofty elevation of 1270 meters.

    The Hotel Temple Ponferrada, conveniently situated within a stroll from the town center, looks like a castle fit for noble knights, exuding a corresponding decor. Our generously sized rooms on the 6th floor are elegantly designed rustically.

    Dominating the cityscape, the Templars Castle of Ponferrada is a testament to its medieval history. Once among the most imposing fortresses in northwestern Spain, it was gifted to the Knights Templar by King Alfonso IX in 1211 as a gesture of peace.

    We dined at Restaurant Doce Torres in the old town across from the castle for our evening meal. As darkness settled in, the courtyard was splendidly illuminated, extending an irresistible invitation for the iPhone to capture the moment in a flawless photograph.
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  • Hari 17

    Cedeira - Lugo

    8 Juni 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    June 8th:
    Today, we embarked from Cedeira in the morning and journeyed to Lugo, navigating through a captivating landscape of rolling hills, enchanting forests, and vibrant pastures. Our day's lodging, meant for both today and tomorrow, welcomed us amidst a torrential downpour ☔️. Unfortunately, our spacious Mercedes couldn't be accommodated in the assigned parking garage, compelling Kurt to park it skillfully along a nearby side street.

    June 9th:
    Lugo, with approximately 100,000 residents, has a rich historical past. Once a pivotal Roman military encampment in the 12th century during the conquest of northern European regions, the town flourished. Evident from this era is a formidable 30-foot fortified wall encompassing the compound, fortified further by 71 watchtowers. Much of this structure endures today, and the sight was awe-inspiring. Most of our morning was dedicated to immersing ourselves in the city encircled by the Roman Wall, revealing a striking cathedral, numerous charming squares, and delightful boutique establishments.

    Ursula and I embarked on a leisurely stroll from the ancient quarters to the banks of the River Miño, traversing the Roman Bridge—an integral part of the Pilgrim trail leading to Santiago de Compostela.

    Following a brief interlude for coffee, we regrouped at the apartment, enjoying the French Tennis Semi-Final match between Carlos Alcaraz and Novak Djokovic. Later, Kurt and I secured lodgings for the forthcoming day and meticulously examined our planned itinerary.

    For this evening's dining escapade, we opted for a local tavern celebrated for its seafood offerings. Our palate was treated to delectable Hake, Squid, and Octopus servings.

    Our destination on the morrow is the city of Ponferrada, nestled within the province of León.
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  • Hari 16

    Viveiro - Ortigueira - Cedeira

    7 Juni 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    As a traveler, I found solace in the gentle night rain that welcomed us, a promising prelude to our journey. The weather forecast assured us of its companionship until our return to the USA, but, as any traveler knows, plans can always take unexpected turns.

    Our day began on the outskirts of Viveira, where we found ourselves cradling morning coffee at a quaint bar. Delightful ceramic cups, remnants of our visit to the Sargadelos factory the day before, embraced our senses and set the tone for the day ahead.

    Following the damp path of AC-100, we headed north towards the Cape de Estaca de Bares lighthouse. Miraculously, the rain decided to retreat, granting us a clear view of the stunning landscape. The journey led us through dense eucalyptus forests, filling the air with their wonderful aroma.

    We continued our journey past the charming coastal towns of Ortigueira and Cariño, choosing route DP-2205, which guided us to the coastal mountain hamlet of Santo André de Teixido. Even though light rain veiled the scenery, it couldn't diminish the hamlet's undeniable charm. A petite church welcomed our footsteps here, and a conversation with a friendly local named Carmen unfolded. To my delight, she had eucalyptus honey for sale. Little did she know that I have quite a passion for honey! 😂

    Our route to Cedeira, our final destination, took us along a narrow and winding road. Eucalyptus forests and picturesque pastoral scenes, with grazing cows and elegant horses, painted a landscape reminiscent of Switzerland's Jura mountains.

    Cedeira itself was unassuming, a typical coastal town with a familiar harbor. We made our way to Hotel Herbeira, perched slightly higher and offering a welcome accent of rain as it cascaded upon us.

    Carmen, the hotel's warm-hearted proprietor, greeted us warmly and assigned us modern rooms overlooking the swimming pool and bay. It was a humorous coincidence that the name Carmen came up again, as she had sold me honey, earlier in Santo André de Teixido. It turned out she had deep-rooted connections to the area through her husband. It truly is a small world!

    Since the solitary fine dining establishment in town had chosen that day for closure, we decided to dine at the hotel's restaurant. It turned out to be a symphony of flavors – a mixed salad, a platter adorned with cheese and prosciutto, accompanied by fresh bread and a glass of wine, all playing their delicious part in our culinary adventure.
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  • Hari 15

    Luarca - Viveiro

    6 Juni 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    The hotel pleasantly surprised us with its modest yet delightful breakfast spread. I couldn't get enough of the freshly squeezed, sweet orange juice, homemade strawberry marmalade, and juicy Kiwi fruits. What a wonderful way to start our day in Spain!

    Our morning kicked off with a mesmerizing visit to Playa de las Catedrales. This unique sandy shoreline showcased towering rock formations, some adorned with intricate tunnels and arches sculpted by the relentless sea over time. Among these rocks, one stood out with angles that brought to mind the grandeur of cathedral architecture. Be sure to check out the attached photos to witness it for yourself.

    Our next stop was a captivating tour of a ceramic and porcelain factory in Sargadelos. We opted for a self-guided tour, observing the skilled artisans at work. It was truly fascinating to witness the intricate process of creating ceramic pieces from their inception to the final delicate hand-painted touches. It's no wonder that a seemingly ordinary coffee cup commands a price of €34.

    Our accommodation, Thalasso Las Sirenas in Viveiro, was a refreshing change with its modern 4-star amenities. We indulged in the luxury of elevators and a spa, feeling thoroughly pampered. From our balcony, we savored the view of the beach and the bay, with a distant glimpse of the city to our right. This evening, we have dinner reservations at the restaurant on the 5th floor, enclosed in glass and offering a breathtaking view of the bay. The enticing items on the menu promise a memorable gastronomic experience.

    Ursula and I deeply bond with our fellow travelers, Kurt and Renata. Our friendship goes back to the 70s during our time in New York. Sharing similar interests, we explore Spain together. Kurt and Renata take the lead in planning our itinerary and selecting our destinations, with a shared understanding that flexibility is key. Our plans are open to discussion and adjustments as circumstances evolve. Tomorrow marks the 16th day of our vacation as we prepare for a 150-kilometer drive to the city of Cedeira.

    Kurt's exceptional driving skills are in action while I play the role of co-pilot. Additionally, I assist Renata in finding accommodations and restaurants and manage reservation calls, serving as the translator and communicator for our team.

    Here's to teamwork, and here's to the beauty of España!
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