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  • Day 87

    Goodbye indonesia

    April 25, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    My last couple of days in Indonesia have been great. I’ve really just enjoyed spending my time with Sophia, relaxing, after what has actually been quite an active little holiday together.

    We had a fantastic Balinese massage for our last dinner in Gili Air, but the travel day, the next day to Seminyak was not so pleasant. Once again, we were mildly scammed by the Lombok café, when we realise there was no Transport waiting for us In bali so we had to pay 300k (£15) for a taxi anyway.

    Our dinner at pork star was one of the best I’ve had, and then it was time for me to leave Sophia and return to Vietnam

    My time in Indonesia has been special. It’s been so nice to spend some quality time in a country which is so diverse and culturally rich. I wasn’t initially planning on coming here, but I’m very glad I have, and honestly Indonesia is somewhere I can definitely see myself travelling in the future as it is so ridiculously big with massive diversity of activities, religion, culture and landscape between the various islands. Did you know it’s the fourth most populous country in the world and spans three time zones!? I had absolutely no idea how big it was.

    Bali was definitely the tourist hotspot, but still pretty cheap fulfilling All of the range of need tourist could want from expensive Western-style attractions to remote beach getaways. Lombok was quieter (admittedly during Ramadan), but beautiful. It is less developed than Bali so the main things to do Here are taking advantage of the fantastic nature by surfing or hiking.

    I hope to come back here one day and hopefully see more of what Indonesia has to offer as I know, there are some unique animals like manta rays, and Komodo dragons, and some of the best diving spots in the world like Raja Ampat.
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  • Day 85

    Gili Air

    April 23, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    With spent the last couple of days since we’ve got to Gili Air doing not much except eat and relax in order to nurse our sore legs. It’s also been pretty quiet here with a lot of restaurants shut as it’s the last couple of days of Ramadan.

    When I say quiet, I mean, fewer people are around during the days, but at night we are kept from sleeping by the loud hymns blasted out over the Island by the mosque, which not even my ear plugs can fully keep out.

    It’s also been a pain to get food as most places to shut or have a massive waiting time, but fortunately Coco loco resto has really come to the rescue, providing tasty cheap meals (~50K/ £2.50 for a main). We have also seen some great sunsets and had incredibly good ice cream in a freshly made waffle cone, straight off the press which I’ve never had before.
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  • Day 82

    Rinjani day 3 descent

    April 20, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    On the last day, the aching muscles and sore joints really were coming into play, but I had no choice but to push through the five hour descent. It was easier this time, starting off as a steep and open rocky path, then eventually move into a muddy chute through a rainforest at a more mild gradient that evidently turns into a river in the wet season.

    After one last lunch from the porters, we arrived at the gate of the national park feeling victorious only to find we had to walk another 20 minutes to our car, which Sophia was very cross about.

    Either way we soon got back, collected our bags and got a lift from the bosses son who looks suspiciously young to be driving, but was pretty good anyway. A couple of hours later we were in Gili Air, our relax and recovery stop before Sophia and I went our separate ways.
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  • Day 81

    Rinjani, day 2 part 2

    April 19, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We said goodbye to those who were only doing two days one night as they were retracing the steps of the first day as the remaining four of the initial 10 of us to send it towards the crater lake. The descent was very steep, and we pretty much were climbing down, sneaking rocky path, getting overtaken by porters every few minutes as they skipped down the steep incline, somehow unaffected by the 30 kg baskets they carried slung uncomfortably across their shoulders.

    After about an hour of steep descent, we began to work across the slope, moving more quickly, but still laboriously with our already-tired legs. After about another hour, we dropped below the clouds and got a first up close view of the turquoise lake that sat in the crater. We knew this meant lunch was close so me and Niils sped off, leaving Sophia and Iris chatting well behind us As we completed the last half an hour of the mild incline in a lush, open grassy land.

    We arrive at the lake five minutes before the ladies thinking it was our lunch stop, but because there were people already there, we had to wade across a river to our actual lunch stop.

    Yet again, the Porter is cooked up a fantastic chicken, veg and rice lunch which we devoured before heading off again. We ended up having to wait/climb around the side of the lake as the water level was particularly high at this time of year and then we were rewarded after this half-hour effort, with a swim in the crisp azure water.

    We didn’t have much time for this now, as it was already 2 pm, as to reach our campsite we needed to regain the 600 m of altitude we’d just climb down. We’ve been told this will take another three hours, which was not good news for our exhausted limbs.

    The clouds rolled in across the lake as we swim, so we scaled the first part of the forest surrounding the lake with very little visibility. We were rewarded about an hour in when the clouds cleared, and we were left with a stunning view of the creator, house in the lake and smaller active volcano and a sight of the summit, towering above us. This was one of the best parts of the walk as we alternated between hiking, steep slopes, and practically having to climb near vertical rock faces.

    One moment I will always remember is when Niils and I watched a porter, somehow make his way up a rock wall, balancing precariously with each step despite the large pack he was carrying. It was, perhaps the only time I ever saw a porter struggle at all with any climb, and I think they must be absolutely superhuman to do this time multiple times a week normally just wearing flip-flops.

    We eventually reach the top and were rewarded one last look at the magnificent view before we had to walk a little bit around the hill to our campsite.

    We once again had some great Porter food, unfortunately, without the sunset view due to the clouds rolling in, then I slept pretty much from 7:30 pm until we had to wake at 5:45 to get up and ready.
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  • Day 81

    Rinjani, the summit

    April 19, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    I knew when I woke at 2 am that I had to try summiting, even though Sophia had decided not to. We set off at 2:40 am the way lit only by our head torches and the faint light of the stars. After a short flat section, the route wind, very steep uphill, and the ground surface was like a sand dune, making the first 400 m climb, tough and slow.

    The next section was easier moving along a gently inclined Ridge for another hour covering for more distance, but only climbing 300 m.

    The last section was mentally and physically incredibly difficult. The peak Richard seem to slowly grow over the last hour loomed over us, seeming so close, but so far. The Dutch couple who I had joined, and I battled our way uphill on the loose rocks and sand at 50% incline, sliding back one pace for every two we took upwards. The last 500 m of elevation took another hour and took every bit of mental and physical strength. We had to summit just as the sky was starting to light up with the colours of sunrise. Despite the growing to get there, the summit (3761m asl) was absolutely worth it and I was rewarded with a view of the volcano in the crater next to the lake, and a stunning panorama of Lombok and its neighbouring islands of Bali and West Nusa Tenggara.

    After 40 minutes of admiring the sunrise, taking photos and avoiding stepping on the dead monkey that had somehow reach the summit, we began our descent. The street bits were easier this time as we slid down the loose surface with the easiest scent of the Long ridge burning our legs on the way down as we tried our best not to slip over. Arriving back to ours later yet again slept for another 40 minutes to be woken up by porters for a banana pancake breakfast.
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  • Day 80

    Rinjani day 1

    April 18, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Now I had been a little nervous about the Rinjani trek after reading in some online blogs about how difficult it was, and this wasn’t helped by some people returning the night before we left saying that it was one of the hardest things they had ever done.

    But either way we are off at 7:30 am, the next day in the back of a flatbed truck for about one hour before we stopped for a brief medical assessment, continuing down a dirt track to the starting point. (1200m above sea level [asl], started at 0936)

    The climb started steadily uphill through green pastures with the mountain rising ahead of us, occasionally getting cat called by the motorbikes who offered to give us a lift to the lunch spot.

    After one hour we reached Pos 1 (1400m asl) our first rest points before continuing at a slightly elevated pace for another 25 minutes to our lunch spot (Pos II, 1600m) which we could see from Pos I in the distance across the steadily steepening green slopes.

    After our first lunch spent guarding our stuff carefully from the Monkeys, who had seen the opportunity to steal snacks of tourists, we continued upwards. The going got steeper from here as we ascended into the tree line and into the clouds, and after 40 minutes we hit Pos III (2000m asl) for another break.

    The going got yet Tougher in the next 35 minutes to Pos IV (2200m asl), and then the last 70 minutes spent climbing the final 400 m to the crater rim were absolutely brutal (2600m, reached at 1530).

    I got the tent and collapsed immediately sleeping for an hour and a half, when I woke to dinner, prepared by the porters and a beautiful sunset across the crater lake. We also had a view of the summit, 1100 m higher than us, a daunting reminder of our task tomorrow.

    After sunset and a very good curry dinner, we headed to our tents, and I fell immediately back asleep at 7:30 pm, slightly dreading and questioning whether I should attend the summit in the morning.
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  • Day 79

    On the way to Rinjani

    April 17, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

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    I’m aware I’ve been terrible at posting on my FindPenguins up until now, but also I know a lot of people have been following this have been following Sophia’s travel journal, so I’ve been a bit useless about updating this, despite keeping up-to-date in my notebook. I’m trying to play a bit of a catch up now and will start from a more recent point then upload older entries when I have time.
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    Our departure to Senaru, our base before the trek, was a little hectic as we still had to collect laundry, the bike battery went flat, so I had to get help kickstart it, and I had to get the taxi to turn around in the first couple of minutes to retrieve my hat, which I’d forgotten.

    The travel to Senaru was also chaotic in typical Asian style: bouncing around in the back of a minivan through the jungle, then stopping off at the Bangsal port where we had to wait an hour for another car, even though there were no other passengers, just our very friendly driver Catun who engaged in enthusiastic conversation in his limited broken English.

    We got there eventually, though, passing out to Little from early morning on the way, and after prepping a little bit, we went on a warmup hike to a couple of nearby waterfalls before it got dark which included a bit of barefoot, hiking, and wading through a river.
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  • Day 52

    Ha giang loop Day 1

    March 21, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    The Ha Gian loop was another definite highlight of this trip. Three days of riding a motorbike through tricky, winding mountain passes alongside steep drops of to breathtaking views. Most people get an easy Rider, a local who drives the bike for them as the roads can be difficult and dangerous, but I was one of the five in a group of 20 who opted to risk fines from the Vietnamese police to drive myself.

    I did have to get a lift from one of the hostel star past the checkpoint, set up just down the road from a hostel on the first day, but after that it was smooth sailing, and I thoroughly enjoyed the challenge of driving the 350 km journey as a steadily increasing pace over the next three days.

    The mountain scenery was quite simply stunning, and we got off at various points to admire the vast valleys and sheer cliffs, going on a couple of short hikes, and one boat trip across a Hydro dam lake, situated in a colossal ravine.

    My group was lovely to. It was amazing to link up with Livi and Sophia again and spend some time with Bobby who arrived at the start of March in Vietnam, and had joined the girls.

    The additions of Jannika, Paulina and Sil as well as all the extras we met along the way made for a really good time off the bikes too, whether it was happy water (corn wine) and pool/karaoke the first night, or night markets and bar the second night. I can’t really do it justice with writing, so I hope some of the footage can.
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  • Day 51

    Brief Hanoi stop

    March 20, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    I didn’t find the bus super comfortable as I am about 4 inches taller than the beds were designed for, but little did I know this would be my most comfortable long bus in Vietnam as we had booked the best type. It looks a bit like a spaceship inside and fit only 22 people instead of 40 in a standard sleeper bus.

    He also somehow arrived, three hours earlier than Google Maps predicted so had some time to explore Hanoi, visiting an Instagram hotspot, café, and the history museum (where we were kicked out early because it was closed at lunchtime 🤷‍♂️). We then collapsed into a long nap most the afternoon, waking up to the many bright lights of nighttime Hanoi. We didn’t do much that evening. Just going for dinner and watching an impromptu street circus outside of the fully booked water puppet show we’d originally planned to go to, then enjoying the view of the city around one of the lakes.

    We were off again early, the next day on a six hour bus to Ha Giang, which I spent watching some Top Gear episodes I’d downloaded, including the Vietnam special (would highly recommend, it’s very entertaining).
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  • Day 48

    Getting fancy in Hoi An

    March 17, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    The next 48 hours, Sophia and I planned it with the rest of the vast tourist crowd in Hoi An, wondering around the beautiful town with its many boutique, cafés and tailors. We spent our time taking in the pretty lights and lanterns on one of the brief punting boat rides on the river (i’ve included a video of me failing to put a lantern in the water,), getting some temporary tattoos from the night market, and deciding not to wait in the long queue for Guinness at the Irish bar, even though it turned out it was Saint Patrick’s Day.

    We both also got stuck in with the tailoring. I got a full gold and blue Tuxedo and three beautifully patterned shirts with Sophia, choosing Various colourful fit of her own design. we just managed to try it on, pay for and organise postage for all of our close a matter of minutes before our ride to the bus stop for our travel to Hanoi arrived.
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