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  • Dag 72

    Athena, Goddess of War

    22 november 2022, Grekland ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I've made it to Greece and back to Athens, home of philosophy, theatre, architecture and democracy, just to name a few. While the ruins in Rome were over 1000 years old, in Athens the ruins are 2600 years old. Prior to that there were even older ruins but the Persians sacked the place about 2800 years ago and flattened every building on Acropolis Hill. Although the Athenians won the war it took them a while to rebuild. The whole of Athens was flattened once again about 2000 years ago with everything destroyed except the hill. The Romans also had control of Athens for a while but didn't destroy it because they thought highly of Greek history and decided to leave the hill untouched.

    Athena, goddess of war and wisdom, is the protector of Athens and the Parthenon on the Acropolis is dedicated to her. The Acropolis Museum is full of statues of her in battle gear. The sacred olive tree on the Acropolis is also dedicated to her and her symbols include the olive and the owl.

    The Acropolis is in a constant state of repair. I'm pretty sure there was scaffolding on it somewhere last time I was here. The preservation and restoration work has been ongoing since the late 1800's although much of today's work includes fixing earlier renovation attempts. Most of the remaining artworks from the sanctuary are protected within the modern Acropolis Museum with replicas on the actual hill itself.

    The Acropolis Museum ranks as one of the top ten museums in the world and the modern building opened in 2009. It sits on a site overlooking part of Athens on one side and the Acropolis on the other. It has been built over the top of a part of ancient Athens so underneath the museum is an archeological site you can walk through and you can also see some of this as you walk over the glass floors inside the museum. The Parthenon plinths and artwork are displayed inside in their authentic size and placement so that the museum itself is larger the Parthenon.

    The significance of Greek culture on modern life cannot be underestimated and it is clear I am in one of the cradles of civilisation. It is unfortunate that it seems such cradles of civilisation found it necessary to revere cruel gods and that humankind found it necessary to build grand temples and artworks to idolise and appease. These grand places I was privileged to see today only exist thanks to many thousands of slaves, most whom probably gave their lives to the task. True civilisation was and still is a long time in the making.

    I've taken quite a liking to Athens today. I don't remember being as taken with it last time. While I've walked extensively today including the top of the Acropolis, the slopes, several surrounding parks including never ending relics and ruins such as the Ancient Greek Agora, the Roman Agora and many other Roman era ruins, there has been something interesting around every corner and parks and view points everywhere.

    And the food is great. Moussaka, lamb stews, pastries that aren't all sweet such as the veggie pie I had for breakfast, kebabs and gyros, souvlaki, etc. My stomach is very content with more red meat than its seen in a while. I've eaten lots of tuna, chicken and ham while I've been away but rarely any lamb or beef. But the €6 I spent on a glass of red wine wasn't as nice as the reds I had nearly everyday in Spain that were never more than €1.50.

    The reason I'm in Athens at all is because of the very cheap Scoot flights Mel-Singapore-Athens. My flight home cost me $550. So if Athens is on your bucket list I recommend keeping an eye on those Scoot flights. I guess I booked this flight about 5 months ago now. I missed getting the cheap flight to Athens as well as I was a bit slow booking and missed the chance.

    I also recommend Athens in November (and Rome too for that matter). No queues or crowds at the sites, Acropolis entry is half price or less if you pay for crowd jumping privileges. This year at least it's still tshirt weather during the day though cooler at night and I suspect accommodation is much cheaper now too.
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  • Dag 67

    Wandering in Rome

    17 november 2022, Italien ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    More Rome photos. The good ones are taken by Maddie.

  • Dag 64

    When in Rome

    14 november 2022, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I'm in Rome spending the week with the beautiful Maddalena Lazzaro. She is showing me all her favourite Roman places and cuisine. Just love the chance to spend time seeing a place with a local. Last time I was in Rome was almost 30 years ago and Darryn and I got some inside help then too.Läs mer

  • Dag 61

    Port Wine

    11 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Porto existed long before Portugal and both were around long before a good Port became famous. Today I wandered the alleyways and docks of Vila Nova de Gaia, the opposite bank of the Douro River from Porto and home of the many makers of Port Wine. Technically Port can only be made in the Douro Valley, now a world heritage site, and was traditionally transported to the "Gaia" by wooden boat. From the port of Gaia it has been exported around the world.

    But Porto and the Rio Douro was sort after long before the 1800s when the port wine trade began to thrive. The cities constitution dates to 417 and many ships of the Portuguese Armada explored the new worlds and the spice trades from here.

    As my friend Ruth reminded me, the churches resemble those in Macau off the coast of China and the painted houses remind me of a childhood fascination I had with the Port of Melaka in modern day Malaysia. I suspect the language also had some small influence in Indonesia (possibly through Indonesian links with Malay) as I note some familiar words or parts of them.

    There are four types of Port Wine currently - white, rose, ruby and tawny. Rose is quite new and popular as a cocktail mix. It is different from Rose as we know it because it is processed the same way as a Port which involves interrupting the fermentation process for a few days. This is the cause of the extra sweetness of Port. Most port is a blend of grape types and about 100 types of grapes are grown in the Douro Valley. French oak is the favoured oak for vats and barrells followed by American and Portuguese, with each giving a different flavour. The oldest bottle of wine available for sale currently at Calem was dated 1961 although barrels dated 1958 are yet to be bottled.
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  • Dag 60

    On the Rio Douro

    10 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    A beautiful sunny day dawned and I decided to behave like a real tourist and tackle the hop on hop off bus and six bridges river cruise.

    Porto has two sides. It's a UNESCO World Heritage listed cityscape including the Luis I Bridge with the two levels of train and road, the Italianate monestary and the river setting itself. Porto looks beautiful from the river and the riverside runs all the way to the ocean. You could walk, ride or electric scooter for miles or take a tram. There are gardens galore and historic sites, churches, alley ways, cafes and port wine by the barrel load as well.

    Yet everywhere there are old ruined buildings. Old stone buildings crumbling, decrepit factories on the riverfront, lines of falling down homes up the cliff faces. It would make an excellent set for an apocalypse movie. You think in these times with the value of the land on which these buildings sit, that they would have been replaced with modern homes (although the cliffs and heritage issues would provide some challenges) . I'm not conversant in the current or past economic situation in Portugal except to compare with how obviously lucky we are at home. The gift of travelling yet again. There is also building work everywhere and cranes in every direction so maybe that investment has started. Porto is certainly a city of much future potential and has been historically, and is currently, a popular destination for retiring or escaping British subjects.

    The photo of the statue of the people looking out to sea is a memorial to a storm when 150 local fisherman were lost.
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  • Dag 58

    Bem Vindo a Portugal

    8 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    My first day of exploring made me glad I'd just walked a Camino. Porto is not a flat city. The river has carved a great canyon in the landscape and the coastal hills are ever present too. The walk from the river back to my apartment will give me a good daily workout.

    I wandered the streets and alley ways and found some good viewing spots looking over the Rio Douro. Pastry shops abound yet again, outshining even Paris in my opinion but don't tell the French.

    I was reminded that the first day in a new country one must pay particular attention to important details such as how to cross a road safely. One must determine if cars actually stop at pedestrian crossings and under what conditions, whether green means green like at home, or just that it's a slightly safer option than red. In Portugal people use the crossing regularly despite what colour the light is and cars quite happily drive across when the green walking light is on as long as they aren't too close to you. Then you have to work out if public toilets might exist and if you have to pay for them, what times shops open and close and how to catch a train or bus. That's without the whole need to speak another language today. Now I'm just speaking to the Portuguese in Spanish like I was speaking to the Spanish in Indonesian.

    And google has now decided to show me everything in Portuguese despite me resetting it to English ten times which makes googling anything somewhat painful. The joys of modern travel. Of course these days I can snuggle up in bed at night and buy a ticket to a river cruise or a bus tour for tomorrow without needing to speak another language, find a tourist office or wander around at all. And despite the fact that I'm travelling to five countries, I don't have to change currencies like we did years ago.
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  • Dag 57

    Adios Espana

    7 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    After a lovely relaxing week doing very little in Muxia, I hopped on a bus back to Santiago, then on to Porto in Portugal. I've a week here before flying to Rome to be with Maddie.

    In Muxia I did find time for some Atlantic sunsets and wandered the local seaside.

    I've landed myself a nice little apartment to base myself in this week. I haven't had such luxury the whole trip.

    The drive to Porto was partly along more of the magnificent Atlantic coast and through the cities of Vigo and Braga. The landscape was beautiful and green with steep coastal hills and deep blue harbours.

    The minute we crossed the Portuguese border at Rio Minho the architecture changed. Houses seem all to be painted white and the churches also. The church steeples and designs differ greatly.

    Arriving in Porto I felt like I stepped out of the alternate reality I been in for two months in Spain and back into the real world, or maybe just back into a modern city. My first stop was an updated Sim at Vodaphone which I found in a shopping centre near the bus stop. While I visited many cities in Spain I always stayed in the historic heart and barely left them. I haven't been in a shopping centre at all. I could have been in Melbourne again. Apparently the most populous city I went to in Spain was Pamplona at approximately 200,000 people so no wonder Porto at 1.3 milliion seems a bit like stepping out of a time machine. Wait till Rome next week.
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  • Dag 53

    Costa da Morte

    3 november 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    The Costa da Morte is a section of Spanish coastline in Galacia along the Atlantic Ocean and is otherwise known as the shipwreck coast.

    Thirty years ago Darryn and I chose to stay on the Costa del Sol, the sunshine coast of Spain, much further to the south in Andalucia. It was a little later in the year, maybe early December and we'd been camping our way around Europe in our old Volkswagen Golf. Sick of a tent we decided a couple of weeks in an apartment and in one place was a good idea and we rented a place called Costa Banana. It was long before the days of booking.com or Airbnb so I can't remember how we found it, only that it was a bargain and that we loved those weeks in Spain.

    So this week I once again find myself on the coast of Spain, renting a cute little apartment, this time with the much fancier name of Pousadas Marinieras. Again I am here after travelling for a few months, in need of staying in the same place for a little while.

    The Coast of Death has been welcoming ghosts for a very long time and seems to have continued its practice up until very recently with more than 150 shipwrecks, many in the last century. Approximately 25 ships of the Spanish Armada where wrecked here in the 1500's and English navy ships also found their home at the bottom of the ocean nearby. More recently in 2002 the Prestige sank off the coast spilling thousands of tonnes of oil and creating the worst ever environmental disaster for Spain and Portugal damaging bird and sea life along the coast for more than 1000 km.

    The peoples of this area have long been seafaring and local food is strongly influenced by the sea. The gooseneck barnacle is the prize morsel of Muxia and barnacle collection is a local tradition and art form.

    Apparently the Virgin Mary came here to Muxia in a stone boat that did not sink. She came to help St James convert the locals to Christianity. The stones of her boat are still here on the coast along with the churches built in her honour.

    Of course this wild wet coastline reminds me in many ways of home.
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  • Dag 50

    There's Something about Muxia

    31 oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    I'm in love with Muxia. Only time will tell if it's a fleeting and fickle love or one that will last a lifetime. I've only been here 24 hours but it's got its little 'pulpo' octopussy tentacles wrapped firmly around my wrists. Not firmly enough to try eating that stuff mind you.

    There's something about Muxia that brings out the child in me. I think it is the many paths to explore, both within the little village and across the surrounding countryside, and the moodiness of the shipwreck coast, the ancient mysteries and the windy wild hilltops. Maybe it's the freedom of being far from home with no responsibility that really brings out the child in me or the freedom to live in my imagination for longer than usual!!

    Of course, I've got to spend a week here by myself without any company (except the bus load of pilgrims that turns up every day that I can find I want to) so my love may change more to just moody by the end of the week.

    Today I wandered east out of town along the Camino path back towards Finisterre. The wind blew, the sun shone and I could see many paths ahead to explore over the coming days both along the beach and over the hills.

    I wandered through town where I got lost in the many alley ways and narrow streets lined with beautiful stone buildings and ugly contemporary ones. I gave thanks that the one local bakery appears to be a panaderie with bread and not much else rather than a patisserie or some other dangerous example like a chocolaterie.

    And I wandered west to the end of the world as they knew it, and discovered a magical little peninsula with a lighthouse, two churches, some monuments and an abundance of character and views in all directions.

    I tried to find the way to the top of the rocky hill at the end of the Peninsula to give you a bird's eye view of this quaint little place jutting out into the ocean on its own little peninsula. I didn't succeed but I did find a secret pathway, climb a big steep rock and find my inner child. I did feel that a Spanish abuela might yell at me from her casa on the hill and tell me I was not allowed to go that way. Maybe I'll find the right path tomorrow.

    I borrowed the first photo from the internet until I figure out how to get to the top of that hill near the cross.
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  • Dag 49

    When the World was Flat

    30 oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    May I just say that the very blue skies of my title photo for today is a rarity rather than the norm and at the same time the Atlantic Ocean (odd writing that when the Pacific so dominates your life) was putting on a nice display of windy at the same time. But I digress, again.

    When the world was flat, the Romans believed that the western most coast of Galicia, the furthest most western tip of Europe, was the end of the world beyond which there was only mythical other worlds hidden by the setting sun.

    So pilgrims came to walk, not only to Santiago, but to the Atlantic to see the edge of the world.

    Today, as in times past, many pilgrims extend their walks to Finisterre, derived from Latin, meaning the finish or end of the earth. Cape Finisterre is the final goal to watch the sunset into the Atlantic as a symbol of the end of your journey.

    There is some historical evidence that the walk to the coast long predates the pilgrimage to Santiago and may have been part of the prior Celtic culture. This part of the Way was documented in the earliest known pilgrim guide, the Codex Calixtinus which was written in the 12th century.

    Walking to the Cape was never part of my plan but visiting was. I took the morning bus from Santiago and enjoyed a long and winding road past Finisterre to Muxia (pronounced Moo-shia) where I am spending the next week wandering, reading, contemplating the meaning of life (as all good pilgrims are required to do post pilgrimage) and possibly writing in this blog thing on occasion.

    All you need to know about Muxia so far is my little apartment has the most comfortable bed I've had el Camino and that it's great to have hair conditioner and razor blades again. And salt and butter, I've missed them too.

    One of my photos is a hint that the Camino has been calling you forever, you just couldn't interpret the message. Another photo is an indication of the sometimes very unclear Camino markers which are supposed to show you the Way.
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