traveled in 33 countries Read more Deutschland
  • Day 9

    Transfagarasan Road

    September 11, 2023 in Romania ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Today we rented a car to make a day trip to the legendary Transfagarasan Highway. It is 90 km long (but it took us about two hours just to get to the starting point) and was built in 1974 under harsh, dangerous working conditions. So much so, that some of locals say it was built on the blood and bones of the workers.

    We didn't get through the entire highway as we only had the car from 10 AM to 6 PM and preferred to make a couple of stops instead of just driving through.

    Balea Waterfall involved an unexpectedly challenging hike. The sign at the trailhead said it would take half an hour to get up there but whoever came up with that must've had wings. The gravel path soon turned into a steep river bed and we had to clamber over rocks and roots on hands and feet. I was amazed to see a couple of senior citizens with walking sticks slowly (and shakily) working their way up... determined to see it through. I just hoped none of them lost their footing and tumbled down the mountain side. Eventually, everyone I encountered on the trail seemed to have made it to the waterfall and looked at least as happy and proud about it as I felt.

    The famous hairpin curves and turns through the mountain pass made for a fun drive up to Balea Lake, which is nestled in a small valley just off the road. We missed the exit at first and drove through the tunnel to the other side of the mountain before realizing our mistake.

    After a quick picnic and a photo session at the shore of the lake with crystal clear water and perfect reflections, we headed back to return the car.
    Read more

  • Day 7

    Trees and Bears

    September 9, 2023 in Romania ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    I carefully shifted my weight to get into a more comfortable position - trying hard to be absolutely silent. By now, Ingrid, a guy named Sebastian and I had been quietly sitting in the woods - waiting - for about two hours. Our guide was a couple of meters away, staring into the trees or at his phone.

    He had picked us up in his old silver car from a parking lot behind a McDonald's a couple of hours earlier, led us into the forest and instructed us to sit, relax and wait.

    Looking up at the trees, I thought surely there are people in this strange world that pay much more than we had just to meditate. Taking a deep breath, I closed my eyes and tried to ignore the cold that had started to creep up my bare arms as the strip of gold from the setting sun descended the trunks of the pines around us.

    Eventually, the guide moved us to a different spot facing a clearing and we waited some more. Just before darkness fell and all hope was lost, it arrived:

    A bear appeared at the edge of the clearing and, after sniffing the air, slowly trudged into it, foraging for food. We were able to watch it for some time, straining our eyes in the growing darkness until it was barely recognizable as a darker shape moving about in the slightly lighter surroundings and disappearing into the absolute blackness of the forest on the other side of the clearing.

    (Photos and video by Ingrid Muñoz)
    Read more

  • Day 7

    Bran Castle

    September 9, 2023 in Romania ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Sometimes you just have to be a tourist and let yourself be lured into a trap. Bran Castle has become one of Romania's top attractions because it "resembles Castle Dracula, as described in Bram Stoker’s novel Dracula (1897), in that both stand on rocky precipices and command spectacular views. But Stoker, an Irish writer, is not known to have ever visited Transylvania." Vlad the Impaler, the historical figure behind the fictional monster, didn't even reside in this castle, but was only held prisoner for some time in the dungeons.

    Nevertheless, a multitude of gift shops, restaurants and hotels plaster the foot of the hill and the castle is venue to a number of events, including a spectacular Halloween party that actually did sound quite enticing.

    The main attraction itself is a rather standard medieval fortress and the museum exhibits provide insight into the lives of Queen Marie and King Ferdinand. On the fourth floor, however, visitors get to encounter creatures and apparitions from Romanian folclore.

    A fun tidbit is the haunted house tucked away behind the many souvenir shops: An entertaining 15 minutes that only costs about €5 with the promise of live actors "trained to scare you". This live actor turned out to be some guy dressed up as a devilish vampire ready to scare the children and envelop women with his cape.

    Right before the exit, one of the mechanical creatures seemed to have malfunctioned - exposing visitors with the most terrifying sight of all: the local mechanic in a blue overall rummaging through the insides of a ghoul...
    Read more

  • Day 4

    Roman Athenaeum

    September 6, 2023 in Romania ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The Roman Athenaeum - or George Enescu Philharmonic - was the only building (apart from museums and galleries) I was really interested in seeing from the inside and with a fee of 10 RON (€2), really didn't break the bank. Inaugurated in 1889, it was built to give the orchestra a permanent home, propagate musical culture and popularize classical music masterpieces.Read more

  • Day 3

    Bukarest

    September 5, 2023 in Romania ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    Bucharest, established by Prince Mercia the Old in the 14th century and first mentioned in writing by Vlad "Dracula" the Impaler in 1459 was located on an important commercial road connecting the Ottoman Empire and Central Europe. The principality of Wallachia basically was under Ottoman rule for many years. However, we couldn't find any traces of oriental architecture as you'd find in Spain.

    Instead, the city is characterized by a mixture of late 19th and early 20th century buildings from when King Carol I modernized the city taking Paris as a model (hence the nickname "Little Paris of the East" up until the World Wars), Bauhaus Modernism and the typically grey architecture of the communist era, marked by Ceausescu's megalomanic building projects such as the gigantic Parliament Palace.

    There seems to be an Orthodox church at every corner - which is somewhat of a contrast to the web of streets and alleyways that make up the center and are lined with restaurants, bars and night clubs. Soon, we jokingly concluded that there were so many churches so that you could redeem yourself of your sins if you succumbed to temptation between one corner and the other.
    Read more

  • Day 2

    The Dacia Express

    September 4, 2023 in Romania ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    It is 9 AM and my lids still feel heavy. A female voice is making announcements in an unfamiliar language outside while other passengers are roaming the hallway. The three people I'm sharing the cabin with are still asleep aboard the Dacia Express, 1000 cars long.

    Well, I don't know how long the night train to Bucharest is, but I do know we're deep in Romania, at the Cluj Napoca train station.

    Yesterday I had taken the early bus to Vienna, where after having dinner and getting some supplies for the approx. 20h train ride ahead of me, I found myself lending a patient ear to an octogenarian giving me an account of all of her aches and ailments. She had moved (fled) from Romania 50 years ago, now lives alone in Passau, Germany, since her husband died and was on her way to an apartment she inherited in Brasov.

    I only noticed they had changed the platform when I saw the blue-grey sleeper arrive at the track next to ours and we rushed as fast as her physical condition would allow, hopping onto the train just as the conductor was closing the doors.

    The cabin was surprisingly comfortable and had enough room to store the luggage. The six-berth ones further down the train did look a bit more cramped though. After getting a set of clean linen, I clambered up to the top bunk and made myself comfortable. I was woken up twice in the middle of the night as we left the Schengen Area and crossed the border from Hungary to Romania to get our passports checked - but resumed my slumber fairly easily. All in all I feel I had a good night's rest.
    Read more

  • Day 4

    Chasing the Shadow of the Wind

    December 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Ever since devouring Carlos Ruiz Zafón's cycle of four novels revolving around the Cemetery of Forgotten Books, I've wanted to make a tour of the locations. Years ago, I had purchased a small guide book with several routes and finally the day had come to put it to use.

    My hostel was in the Gothic Quarter and thus the perfect starting point to immerse myself in the world of Daniel Sempere and Julián Carax. The gloomy and wet weather actually helped set the right mood as I roamed the city searching for the Sempere bookstore (in reality a glove shop) and the infamous 4 Gats Restaurant.

    Was that Fermín lurking in the shadows under the Pont de Bisbe? Did I catch a glimpse of Nuria Monfort behind one of the curtained windows of Plaza de San Felipe Neri? (Fun detail: the name was actually corrected to Plaza Nuria Monfort by a grafitti artist - unfortunately this photo was lost in the Great Cellphone Malfunctioning and couldn't be recovered).

    Finally, the book guided me through an inconspicuous archway off the Ramblas, through a sketchy alley to a barren lot surrounded by houses with crumbling facades. Feeling a bit uneasy, I was about to turn on my heel to skedaddle right back to the lively main street where Moroccans were celebrating their victory in today's World Cup Soccer match with a parade of fireworks, music and dancing.

    But then a group of people turned the corner, planted itself right at the fence of the barren lot and as the sounds of the celebration seemed to fade further into the silence of this gloomy neighborhood, one of them opened a book, reading the passage where Daniel Sempere was guided by his father through that very same archway and sketchy alley to the Cemetery of Forgotten Books:

    "Las calles aún languidecían entre neblinas y serenos cuando salimos al portal. Las
    farolas de las Ramblas dibujaban una avenida de vapor, parpadeando al tiempo que la
    ciudad se desperezaba y se desprendía de su disfraz de acuarela. Al llegar a la calle Arco
    del Teatro nos aventuramos camino del Raval bajo la arcada que prometía una bóveda de
    bruma azul. Seguí a mi padre a través de aquel camino angosto, más cicatriz que calle,
    hasta que el reluz de la Rambla se perdió a nuestras espaldas. La claridad del amanecer se filtraba desde balcones y cornisas en soplos de luz sesgada que no llegaban a rozar el suelo.
    Finalmente, mi padre se detuvo frente a un portón de madera labrada ennegrecido por el tiempo y la humedad. Frente a nosotros se alzaba lo que me pareció el cadáver abandonado de un palacio, o un museo de ecos y sombras."
    Read more

  • Day 3

    Scratching the Surface of Modernism

    December 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Since I ended up with my nose in a book in a warm (and dry) tapas bar instead of making it all about Gaudí the day I went to Parc Güell, I decided to give it another try today in the hopes that the weather forecast was accurate.

    This time I joined a free walking tour (de facto pay-what-you-want) on Modernism starting at Plaza Catalunya, making stops at Casa Batllò, Casa Lleó Morera, Casa Monet and Casa Millá to get an overview of the Modernist movement in Barcelona before heading to the Sagrada Familia. The tour didn't include entry to the church, but I had tickets to go in later that week.

    Even if you're bored of western European churches (since so many of them are so similar), the Sagrada Familia definitely is one you shouldn't miss out on.

    Stepping into the church, it truly felt like stepping into a forest of fossilized prehistoric trees, the pillars transitioning into a canopy of palm leaves and light in unreachable heights. Luckily, I went relatively early in the off-season, meaning I was able to take everything in without having to deal with massive, loud crowds dripping sweat from the singeing Barcelona sun. This also meant there was an awed, hushed silence - with only soft whispers that might just as well be the wind moving softly through the leaves.

    There are so many details to discover, it's well worth while staying for a bit - even if it just to sit on the benches and see how the color changes with the light of day.
    Read more

  • Day 3

    Catalan Christmas Traditions

    December 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    I was surprised to find various Christmas markets around the city and two strange wares in particular caught my eye:

    The figure of man in traditional Catalan garb... with pants around his knees doing his business and a log with a somewhat cartoonish smile wearing a red scarf and a pointy hat.

    Intrigued, I approached one of the market stalls to find out more. Framed by the smiling faces of the logs stacked on the counter in front of her and to her sides, the saleslady was happy to explain:

    The logs are known as "el tío" (which can be translated to uncle or dude) that is placed in the family home a few days before Christmas. Children feed them the day's leftovers every evening before going to bed. When the 24th comes around, the whole family gathers around the log and starts beating it with a stick to stimulate the log's bowel movements, which appear in the form of gifts and sweets. Now, the beating doesn't happen haphazardly of course, but to the rhythm of a song quite straightforwardly asking the tío to poop nougat confections (turrones) and other goodies.

    "Caga tió
    Caga torrons
    avellanes i pinyons
    no caguis arengades
    que són massa salades
    caga torrons
    fartons i pinyons."

    As to the figurine of the man depositing a gift of his own, he is known as the "Caganer" and is usually placed somewhere in the nativity scene, mostly tucked away in a corner, behind a bush or somewhere else deemed appropriate for attending nature's call. Apparently, hiding a Caganer somewhere in the nativity scene ensures fertile farming soil for the year to come and is definitely a fun detail to look for.

    The traditional variant is that of a Catalan peasant dressed in red, black and white - but nowadays all kinds of celebrities, stars, political and religious personages can be found doing their business in some inconspicuous corner of a nativity scene.
    Read more

  • Day 1

    First Impressions of Barcelona

    December 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We approached Barcelona from the sea and as the plane circled over the city, I could make out the infamous Montjuic on one side and the Sagrada Familia on the other. In the haze below, the church resembled the crowned head of a creature emerging from the depths of the earth - it's organic structure challenging the dead-straight lines of the grid that was the city surrounding it. I later learned this part of town was called the "Ensanche" and that Antoni Gaudí thought very little of it. To him, the "misuse of straight lines in urban planning led to a checkered pattern of disheartening monotony".

    If the city could convey such a contrast from the air alone, what contrasts would expect me on the ground? As much as I looked forward to finding the answer to that, when I got to my accommodation I was in such desperate need of sleep that I decided to take a long afternoon nap.

    In the evening, followed the southernmost segment of the Ramblas (Rambla de Santa Mónica) all the way to the Ramblas del Mar - a continuation of the promenade on the sea. It offered quite a few entertainment options, such as restaurants, bars, a movie theater and an aquarium. I was in luck, as today was the last night of the Christmas fair along the port, with food stands, light installations and happy Barcelonians, seemingly without a single worry in the world.
    Read more

Join us:

FindPenguins for iOSFindPenguins for Android