オーストラリア
Kentish

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    • 日55

      CMNP: Hiking in the Park

      2月4日, オーストラリア ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      Disappointment. That was my first reaction to the overcast and drizzle we woke up to this morning. Where had yesterday’s sunshine and blue skies gone?

      Now that we’ve completed our hike, however, I can categorically say that we’re grateful that there was cloud cover today. It would have been downright uncomfortable hiking had the sun been out.

      Taking the shuttle into CNMP around 8:30a, we hopped off at the Ronny Creek shuttle stop to begin our hike. There was a fancy sign for the Overland Track, our starting point. But no. We did not do that hike. Not only does it take 5-6 days to complete it end to end, one has to pack a tent and other accoutrements for wilderness hiking, and ascend both Marion’s Lookout and Cradle Mountain … and who knows what else.

      Rather, the plan was to hike up to Crater Lake, which is on the Overland … and then return to the Dove Lake parking lot to pick up an outbound shuttle. Since we were cobbling together our own route, we weren’t exactly sure of the distance we’d be hiking. However we figured we’d be out and about for at least three hours. Had we not dallied as much as we did along the way, I imagine that estimate would have been accurate.. As it is, we hiked for over four hours.

      The trail started out flat on a boardwalk. Then wooden steps … some wide; some high. Then rock steps … quite unevenly spaced. Then fairly flat gravel. Then dirt strewn with roots ready to trip up the unwary. The trail was rated easy … Australian easy, that is. Technically, it wasn’t a difficult hike, you just had to pay attention to where you were stepping.

      At the top, the trail junctions with others, including Marion’s Lookout. One look at that straight-up trail confirmed our decision to nix it. Instead, we walked just a bit further on from the junction to a couple of hidden overlooks mentioned to us by the ranger at the Visitor Center … one for Crater Lake and the other for Dove and Lilla Lakes.

      Photo ops completed, we began the return trek via the Wombat Pool and Lilla Lake trails. Yesterday, we had debated doing the hike we did today … but in reverse … starting from Dove Lake to Crater Lake via the Wombat Pool … ending up at the Ronny Creek shuttle stop. Once we began the descent from the Crater Lake trail today, we were especially grateful that we had not done so! There were far more steep sections here … especially on the way to Wombat Pool … and a number of them were a bit more like rock scrambles over what I like to refer to as “sliced bread rocks.”

      We had a great hike … glad for the natural shade provided by the clouds and the occasional gusts of breeze. There were enough glimpses of the view in the heavily-forested parts to keep us entertained. And that’s an especially good thing.
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    • 日54

      CMNP: Picture Postcard Perfect

      2月3日, オーストラリア ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

      CMNP — officially Cradle Mountain-Lake Clair National Park — is Tasmania’s iconic park. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site … in the midst of 1.4 million hectares of wilderness. When thinking about that number, keep in mind that all of Tasmania is approximately 6.81 million hectares, of which nearly 49% is forested. Plans are ongoing to conserve and protect even more land as monies become available and opportunities present themselves.

      The landscape at CMNP is alpine in nature … described in the brochure as “rugged peaks, windswept moors, glacial lakes and tarns, and deep gorges clothed in tall, ancient forests.”

      Private vehicles are only allowed to enter CMNP before the shuttle buses start operating at 8:00a … and again after they stop at 6:00p. The problem in the morning is that if too many cars enter, the sensor shuts down the gate and a light starts flashing. One has to then wait … and wait … and wait for a vehicle to exit and the light to go steady before being granted access. And then 8:00a comes around … and well, you’re out of luck.

      Our time at CMNP is supposed to be for “taking it easy.” Meaning, we aren’t rushing off to do this, that, and everything. No early morning wake up just to drive into the park either. Instead, we picked up shuttle tickets to use at our leisure.

      When we jiggled our plans after our Enchanted Walk, we initially thought to move the hike planned for tomorrow to today. “Nah,” we thought to ourselves once we got to Dove Lake. Just a short hike today would suffice … more of a stroll down to the Dove Lake Boat Shed for the postcard shots the ranger at the Visitor Center had recommended.

      What a difference I. The weather conditions today from when we popped over to Dove Lake yesterday after dinner. Where the surface of the lake was ruffled with white caps then, it was flat calm with only the occasional ripple today. Where the freezing temps had us shivering then, we were debating taking off our outer layers today. Where iconic Cradle Mountain was veiled by mist and starting to wear its cloud cloak then, it was “out” and the air was crystal clear today. Indeed, picture postcard perfect!

      After enjoying our brief sojourn into the park, we returned to the lodge for lunch at the Tavern and a relaxing afternoon in the cabin. And a few chores … namely, re-balancing the weight in our checked bags for our flight out to the mainland on the 6th.

      And then, off to visit with some carnivores!
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    • 日10

      Day 3 - Cradle Mountain

      2023年2月2日, オーストラリア ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      Auch heute war es wieder unglaublich regnerisch und kalt. Lisa und ich haben den starken Nachtteil, dass wir als Backpacker nur sehr wenig Kleidung mit uns herumschleppen und demzufolge auch erst recht keine gute Ausrüstung für kalte Tage haben. Somit müssen wir stattdessen 5 Schichten übereinander tragen. Heute ging es auf den höchsten Berg von Tasmanien. Gili aus unserer Gruppe wollte diesen unbedingt auf einem achtstündigen Wander-/Kletterpfad trotz des absurden Wetters besteigen. Wir anderen drei blieben aber für ein paar Stunden erstmal in einem Café zum aufwärmen und machten dann nur eine kleine Wanderung für zwei Stunden durch eine Landschaft zwischen den Bergen. Dieser Ort ist normalerweise für die vielen Wombats hier bekannt, jedoch konnten wir leider keine sehen, da es ja geregnet hat. Dennoch eine unglaublich tolle Landschaft!

      Am Abend ging es dann noch zu einer etwas bekannteren Stadt namens Devonport, die Bilder und der Bericht von dort folgen aber erst im nächsten Beitrag😉
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    • 日1,795

      Baby Wombat!!!!

      3月3日, オーストラリア ⋅ 🌬 2 °C

      We have been hiking in the Cradle Mountain National Park before so we kind of knew what to expect and where to find a lot of Wombats. During the day it is hard to spot anything in the national park. And because of the narrow road the only way to get into the park during the day is by an overpriced shuttle bus. But at 6pm the shuttle bus stops operating and everyone is leaving the park. That is also the moment the gate opens and we were allowed to drive in with our own car. So we went straight in and explored the park with hardly anyone around us. And of course we saw more Wombats we were able to count. Such a fun watching these guys and how cute is the baby? Our first baby Wombat in the wild! Absolutely worth it, but also the second time today we got deep frozen.

      Wir sind schon einige Wanderwege im Cradle Mountain Nationalpark gewandert von daher wissen wir mittlerweile wann und wo wir hin müssen um Wombats zu entdecken. In den Nationalpark führt nur eine furchtbar enge Straße, weshalb man während des Tages nur mit einem Shuttlebus in den Park kommt. Allerdings ist es tagsüber quasi unmöglich Wombats oder Wallabies zu beobachten. Um 18 Uhr hört der Shuttlebus allerdings auf zu fahren und so ziemlich jeder verlässt den Park. Gleichzeitig öffnet sich aber auch die Schranke sodass wir nun selber in den Park fahren können. Und was man dann sieht sind Wombats und Wallabies ohne Ende. Sogar unser erstes Wombat Baby haben wir hier heute entdeckt! So süß!
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    • 日71

      St Valentin

      2023年2月14日, オーストラリア ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Hello les amis, 👋🏼
      Fraîchement réveillés, nous rangeons tout et prenons un petit café.
      Nous avons une heure de route pour arriver à notre randonnée de Cradle Mountain.
      Nous avons fait deux groupes, un groupe qui fait une randonnée plus tranquille et un groupe qui fait le tour du lac ( bien plus physique).
      Je suis restée plus soft en faisant la randonnée tranquille de 4h30. Une vue magnifique sur tous ces lacs, une vue à 360 degrés.
      En ce jour de Saint-Valentin, les garçons ont cueilli des fleurs pour nous les offrir (ils sont vraiment attentionnés avec nous).
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    • 日54

      CMNP: Around the Lodge

      2月3日, オーストラリア ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

      It was a wombat kind of day @ Peppers Cradle Mountain Lodge! Saw three of them around the grounds today! Two of them cooperated for close-ups!

      We’re supposed to be taking it easy here, so we reserved breakfast — included in the room rate — for 8:00a. A lazy but good start to what turned out to be a comfortably warm, mostly-wind-free, blue-sky day at CMNP. Even the driver of the shuttle we took into the park later remarked on what an unusual day this was. Hey, after the cold and windy welcome we got yesterday, we deserve it!

      In keeping with our “take it easy plan” we were going to stay close to the lodge today. We jiggled things a bit, but mostly abided by that plan. That’s not to say we sat around and did nothing. No, there are several walking trails — more than a stroll, but not in the hiking category — that can be accessed from the lodge. We picked the one with a “Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks” designation sign at the trailhead.

      The “Enchanted Walk” is basically an easy boardwalk trail … a circuit of about .7 mile. It follows the Pencil Pine Creek through a mossy forest. Wildlife abounds along the trail we were told. We saw only a kookaburra and a couple of skinks. And lots of “poo evidence” of other critters. Having started around 9:30a, we didn’t expect to see much anyway.

      We also stopped in to check out the Interpretive Center, and I did a short walk to the Pencil Pine Falls to wrap up our walks in the immediate area.

      Somewhere in between all this, was the jiggle that took us to Dove Lake. But I’ll leave that for the next footprint.
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    • 日233

      Tasmanie nous revoilà!

      2023年7月26日, オーストラリア

      Hello les amis, 👋🏼
      Une page qui se ferme à l'hôtel Surf Inn, ce fut une expérience formidable mais nous avons une belle opportunité de travail en Tasmanie.
      Nous sommes arrivés en Tasmanie le 26 juillet, mais assez tard pour que personne ne puisse venir nous chercher, alors nous avons passé une nuit dans une auberge plutôt inhabituelle. Ça ressemblait à une cellule spatio-temporelle 😂 .
      Nous travaillons dans un hôtel 4 étoiles qui nous fournit le logement et la nourriture, et nous travaillons environ 40 à 50 heures par semaine. De quoi mettre de l'argent de côté pour nos futurs projets !
      Il fait très froid, environ 5°C en plein hiver.
      Nous sommes logés dans un chalet à 5 minutes à pied de l'hôtel, et je croise sur mon chemin de jolis petits animaux (wombat, wallaby, pademelons...) ce qui rend l'endroit plutôt charmant.
      Nous ne sommes pas vraiment là pour le plaisir, et nous comptons les jours avec impatience... J'ai fait un compte à rebours pour me motiver, comme en prison.
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    • 日297

      Au revoir la Tasmanie

      2023年9月28日, オーストラリア

      Hello les amis, 👋🏼

      La dame Alice est de retour saine et sauve, non sans complications mais enfin arrivée à destination et c'est bien là l'essentiel. (après avoir été retardée sur le premier vol, puis sur le second, elle a dû prendre une nuit dans un hôtel en Tasmanie car l'emploi du temps du manager ne permettait pas de la récupérer).
      Nous voilà réunis pour de nouvelles aventures ! 1 mois s'est écoulé et nous changeons à nouveau nos plans. Nous partons rejoindre Arsène et des anciens amis de la Tasmanie en ferme dans le New South Wales . Et vous savez quoi ? C’est dans une ferme de blueberries, finalement j’aurais tout le savoir dans l’exploitation des champs de myrtilles.
      Voilà pourquoi la décision a été prise très rapidement :
      - nous devons terminer nos 88 jours de ferme ( certes nous ne renouvelons pas directement le visa mais nous préférons nous laisser le choix . Nous avons jusqu’à 35 ans pour revenir en Australie).
      - Quitter ce trou perdu ( c’est bien mignon mais la vie en Tasmanie à Cradle Mountain est bien ennuyeuse) .
      Au revoir à la Tasmanie et ses endroits merveilleux , au revoir Cradle Mountain et à son froid , au revoir Pepers et à son staff .

      Et mon ressentie face à tout cela ?
      Je suis un peu anxieuse à l'idée des futures pistes qui ne sont pas du tout sûres, stressée à l'idée de rencontrer de nouvelles personnes et de ne pas m'entendre aussi bien qu'avec les personnes en fermes de Tasmanie. Mais c'est ça l'aventure, savoir ce que l'on quitte mais ne pas savoir ce que l'on va trouver.

      Ps : la bouteille de bière vide
      Alice se souviendra de cette histoire, une bière datant de plus d’un mois bu après une défaite au billard ( je l’ai éliminé oups .. )
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    • 日53

      Cradle Mountain National Park (CMNP)

      2月2日, オーストラリア ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

      The drive from Sheffield to CMNP was pretty much that … a drive … flat and straight roads part of the way … winding and curvy in other parts. Nothing exciting.

      Shortly before 4:00p, we pulled into the Cradle Mountain Lodge … our base of operations for three nights. Initially, we were assigned to Pencil Pine Cabin #12. It had the lake view we had requested. But it was missing the veranda. No worries, Working with the manager, we got ourselves switched to PPC #24. Perfect … and we were immediately rewarded with a wombat grazing right out front.

      In fact, we’ve had plenty of wildlife sightings already … platypus in the lake (pond really; 3 sightings); native hens; a couple more wombats; a Bennett’s wallaby; a couple of pademelons; and right at our front door, a brush-tailed possum. Thrilling … even if I didn’t manage to get photos of all of them.

      After settling into our cabin, we returned to the main building to have dinner at the Tavern … which does not require reservations. Our tummies sated, we hopped in the car to check out the national park itself. Once the mandatory shuttle stops operating, cars are allowed inside. In February, that is at 6:30p.

      The road into the park is about 7.5 miles long and dead-ends at Dove Lake. The sun wasn’t due to set until about 8:00p, but the light disappears fast due to the high mountains. Even if that weren’t the case, today we would not have been able to stay long. It was polar-region-cold with a wind strong enough to push me around. Back in the car, Mui said it was 46F … but I bet the feels like with the windchill was below 32F. The good news is that the wind is expected to die down. Fingers crossed.

      Oh, by the way. Despite reports that there is no cell signal to be had hereabouts, we have a strong 4G with our Telstra eSIM … no need to go to main building to connect via WiFi.
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    • 日54

      CMNP: Devils @ Cradle

      2月3日, オーストラリア ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

      When we signed up for the “Tasmanian Devil Night Feeding” through the lodge, we anticipated just that. The devils would be fed after nightfall.

      Well, that might be the case in the winter time when it gets dark early. They do add an 8:30p feeding in the summer, but — in hindsight — I’m glad we were put in the 5:30p group as this was a better time for photos. As well, we could freely roam the grounds prior to the feeding and check out the various pens to see not just the iconic Tasmanian devils, but also two separate species of quolls — Eastern and spotted-tail — that are part of the species conservation work done by Devils @ Cradle.

      In the footprint for the Unzoo in Port Arthur, I mentioned that a contagious cancer — Devil Facial Tumor Disease — has decimated the wild devil population by some 80% since its appearance in 1996. There is hope for eradicating the tumor … as a result of the vaccine research done for COVID-19. But that is still a work in progress. In the meantime, other solutions have been implemented to protect the now-endangered Tasmanian Devil.

      One such solution is the Insurance Population Breeding Program … of which Devils @ Cradle is a part. The program works to protect species from extinction. Signage explained that “… A meta-population has been established throughout Australia, which strategically combines multiple facilities or sites operating under various management levels. Devils can be moved between these bio-secure sites to maintain the genetic diversity of the population.”

      A similar program applies to the quolls as well. There are only 10,000 or so of them in the wild in Tasmania … and only because there are no foxes here. Individuals from this breeding program have been shipped to the mainland to start repopulating quolls in the wild there.

      The pens here — open air for the devils, which cannot jump out … fenced-in for the quolls, which can easily jump out — are described as free range enclosures. Thus, the animals are considered to be under semi-wild managed conditions. The plan is to release individuals from these protected sanctuaries into off-shore Tasmanian Islands … into wild managed conditions. In fact, 15 devils were released on Maria Island in 2012 and their population is flourishing in that disease-free environment.

      The feeding experience here was different from the one at the Unzoo in that we saw multiple feedings … first the females in one enclosure; and then a “paired couple” in another enclosure. At first, they peacefully shared the wallaby carcass that the keeper staked out for them. Once the meat dwindled down, however, the animals became quite vocal over who would be eating the remaining bits.

      The meat, by the way, is specifically purchased for the critters from a hunter. They are not allowed to use any of the many road kills we’ve seen all over Tasmania.

      The quolls got their treats as well. It was interesting to see these small, carnivorous marsupials go at the meat with such relish.

      The visit to Devils @ Cradle was interesting and informative … I’m glad we went … all the more so because the admission goes towards the care of the animals in the program.
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