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Arrondissement de Caen

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    • Day 5

      Pont-l’Évêque > Caen - 70km

      April 2 in France ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

      Réveil très compliqué, nous n’avons pas dormi… Une première nuit en tente qui n’était clairement pas une réussite, il y avait tellement de vent que la tente se couchait sur nous. Et maintenant, il faut plier bagage, réussir à ranger la tente avec un vent qui n’a pas diminué et qui en plus est froid.
      Malgré ce départ difficile, nous descendons, accompagnés d’un beau soleil, tranquillement à Pont-l’Évêque via la voie verte. Stop dans un café pour se réchauffer et dans la crémerie de notre hôte pour acheter du fromage du coin.
      C’est parti pour 70km de vélo, passage par les stations balnéaires prisées des parisiens l’été, avec de magnifiques maisons et de belles plages à perte de vue : Houlgate, Cabourg… puis direction Caen en longeant l’estuaire avec l’observation des oiseaux qui logent dans ces zones entre terre et mer.
      Nous arrivons à Caen, son château et son église en pierre blanche de Caen et son port de plaisance. Direction chez Mathilde et Hugo, des amis de longue date qui terminent de retaper une maison pas loin du centre ville. Nous profitons d’un toit pour la nuit et c’est pas plus mal.
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    • Day 30

      On To Caen

      July 23, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      Well, our Paris adventure is almost over (we do have one more night when come back to Paris to catch our train to Milan) so today we are off to Caen.

      In everything we read and watched, it talked about how hard it is to do Normandy without a car. You can do a tour but that is expensive. And there isn't really any public transport from Caen to the beaches, so that leaves renting a car. And this proves to be immensely hard when you have 6 people. I had managed to book 2 different 7 passenger cars out of Rouen knowing sometimes they let you book but cancel you. This happened to one of our vehicles a couple of weeks ago. But we still had one vehicle left and they were still sending us confirmations so we felt like that would work out.

      So we rode the train from Paris to Rouen and figured out the metro that would take us from the train station to the car rental place. We arrived ahead of time, walked up to the counter to get our vehicle and...... they didn't have one.

      They say they were trying to get ahold of us to tell us, and they had one but it was in an accident.... and the dog ate our contact information.... and they called around to all the companies in the area... but.... no 7 passenger car.

      But.... they could give us 2 cars for actually less than what we were going to pay for the other one. But Jenny doesnt have an international drivers license as she had no intention of driving. But luckily, you don't need an international drivers license to drive in France so that was great. But... the cars you rent are all standard transmission. It is nearly impossible to get an automatic and Jenny don't drive no standard. But... as it turns out they did happen to have one more automatic car that was just getting cleaned up. So... 2 cars instead of 1 for cheaper than the 1 car we reserved and Jen could drive because it was an automatic. I would drive the other one that was a standard. But, that also means we would pay double the tolls so the car rental people further reduced our car fee to compensate.

      So we decided to just go for it. It meant we were split between 2 cars but it would be fine. And, as it turns out, both cars came equipped with GPS. So, we signed our life away and took the cars on the road to Caen.

      Now, I am not sure what the settings on my GPS were, but I am sure it was set to.... no tolls, middle of the country, and please seek out the narrowest and curvy roads possible. Because it didn't take long before my GPS had us off the main highway and we were going down every backroad and through every small town on a path that I guess kept us moving in the direction of Caen. Jenny was in the car behind and she had to listen to her GPS losing patience for her not following it's instructions. Jenny swears she could start to hear "tone".

      But, eventually the GPS did in fact get us here. In the end, the drive was great and exactly what we had hoped to be able to do when we thought about this trip many months ago. Get out of the city and into the country. It just took a creative GPS to get us there.

      I am not sure what I thought Caen was like but it is way bigger than I thought. We only got separated and I lost Jenny once but we eventually found our place, parked the cars, got into our place and sat on the couch to catch our breath. Jenny didn't enjoy the narrow back roads as much as I did so it was a relief to get here.

      After a little break we headed out to get some food, look around a bit and then back to our place to relax and plan our day tomorrow. The apartment is really great and we are looking forward to tomorrow.

      So, there isn't a lot to show for pictures. I had the kids in my vehicle take pictures as I drove so I will share some of those. And the step counter is under 10,000 so it felt like a pretty low key day.

      Look for more pictures and more walking tomorrow. Until then....
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    • Day 17

      Beauvron-en-Auge

      September 23, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Well, that was a right ole night, rain in the bucket full un it woke er again early. We ended last night with a rainbow 🌈 un started the day with another. After watching the tsunami of water run down me window, they decides to to give the market the swerve. We set of for our next stop, by way of the supermarket. Christ, that was a big bill, just shows how much you save by mekin your own wine 🍷.
      Right thems given me a blast up the motorway to eat a few miles up, it's nice to stretch me legs every now un then.
      After stopping fur lunch in the lovely picturesque E.Leclerc supermarket car park while it pis...ed it down on us agin, we are off to Beuvron-en-Auge one of Frances beau villages.
      It's a beautiful chocolate box type village with timbered houses. It's also supposedly the town where painter David Hockey is reported to have lived. Thems stopping at an aire agin tonight, but it's okay sheltered under the trees 🌳 .
      They has a walk into the village to stretch the legs, gauld blimey you should ear the thunder ⛈️ but they meks it back without gettin wet . Result.
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    • Day 10

      St Malo

      September 11, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Nach entspanntem Frühstück und Aufräumarbeiten, wir hatten ja nur 10 km vor uns, ging es nach St Malo.
      Die Stadt der Korsaren will keine Autos höher 1,80m haben, wir mußten also ein bisschen nach einem passenden Parkplatz suchen.
      Und dann ab in die Altstadt, die von außen gar nicht hübsch aussieht . Mit einer dicken alten Stadtmauer, die die Bombardierung im 2 Weltkrieg überstanden hat. Die Altstadt selber wurde zerstört und wieder original wieder aufgebaut.
      Kleine Gassen, 500 Jahre alte Häuser, alles verwinkelt und eng aber Widererwarten schön.
      Ein köstlichen crêpe mit Karamel aus gesalzener butter und Galette mit Schinken und Käse sind unser Mittagessen. Biskuits und Bonbons, Macarons und Törtchen überall...
      Wie machen die Franzosen es bloß nicht dick zu werden...
      Und überall freut man sich über Smilla, zückt das Handy und zeigt seinen oder ihren eigenen Cocker und man trifft immerzu andere in allen Farben.
      Um 16.00 geht es weiter , nur immer noch nicht klar wohin. Eigentlich wollten wir Mont Saint Michel sehen, aber dafür bräuchten wir einen ganzen Tag, den wir aber nicht mehr übrig haben. Und schon von weitem sieht man sehr viele Menschen, die da unterwegs sind.
      Na gut, da haben wir was um wiederzukommen.
      Jetzt müssen wir ein bisschen Gas geben, die meisten Plätze schließen ihre Rezeption um 19.00 und wir fahren noch 200km. Und uups nicht aufgepasst, der auserkoren Platz ist nur bis 30.8. offen. jetzt umplanen...18.40 finden wir gerade so noch einen Platz kurz vor Caen.
      Ein schöner grüner Platz, blitzsauber nur so modern wie vor 40 Jahren ...
      Zur Feier des Tages ein köstliches Brot und ein Glas Wein mit Macarons. 19 Jahre MeMoS.
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    • Day 7

      Pegasus Brücke

      April 29, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Weiter ging die Fahrt, recht schnell waren wir am nächsten interessanten Punkt unserer Reise angekommen, der "Pegasus Brücke" ei Bénouville. Diese auch so höchst interessante Brücke hat eine bedeutende Geschichte in 2. Weltkrieg, lest hier:

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      KI: Die Pegasus-Brücke ist eine historisch bedeutsame Brücke über den Caen-Kanal in der Normandie, Frankreich. Der Name stammt von der Operation Pegasus, einer militärischen Operation während des Zweiten Weltkriegs, bei der britische Fallschirmjäger diese Brücke eroberten und damit einen wichtigen Beitrag zur alliierten Invasion in der Normandie leisteten. Die Brücke wurde später wieder aufgebaut und ist heute eine wichtige Touristenattraktion in der Region. Es gibt ein Museum in der Nähe der Brücke, das an die Ereignisse erinnert und viele historische Artefakte ausstellt.
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    • Day 5

      Sturm und Drang

      April 16 in France ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

      Vi har hittills haft tur med vädret. Det enda regnet föll när vi satt på båten. Det har dock varit blåsigt nästan hela tiden och med temperaturer omkring 10 grader så känns det kallt. Jag har haft dubbla koftor och halsdukar för att hålla mig varm.

      När vi gav oss iväg med bussen i dag var det grått och under fm kom det regnskurar men på em var det åter soligt och blåsigt.

      Pegasus-bron var dagens första anhalt. Den hette tidigare ngt annat och på franska kartor har den fortfarande det första namnet. Strax efter midnatt på D-Day landade sex glidflygplan med omkring 30 allierade soldater i varje på ett fält nära bron. Deras uppgift var att inta bron så att tyska trupper skulle hindras från att komma och förstärka befintliga styrkor. Allt gick geschwind och tog endast 10 minuter. Att den första insatsen för de allierade blev en sådan succé var positivt för stridsmoralen.

      De soldater som intog bron hade märken med en Pegasus-figur på sina uniformer och för att hedra dem fick bron namnet Pegasus.

      Precis vid ena brofästet ligger ett café som fanns där redan då. Det fick tillfälligt vara sjukstuga men efter krigsslutet blev det åter café. Damen som driver caféet var fyra år när bron befästes av de allierade och hennes pappa drev caféet. En vacker dam vid full vigör, vi fick inte fotografera inomhus, men vi hittade en pamflett med en bild caféet och ägarinnan, tagen för rätt många år sedan. När vi satt där kom en kontingent från norska hovet för att planera ett kommande besök av Norges kung.

      Sedan lämnade vi kriget ett tag för att prova Calvados. Ett gammalt destilleri med stor produktion. Calvados samt bröd med inhemska ostar blev ett bra mellanmål.

      Färden gick vidare till Honfleur, en stad som inte blev bombad under kriget. Charmig med gamla hus runt en hamnbassäng och med massor av restauranger. Där åt vi moules frites. Gott!

      Sista stoppet var vid Merville, en tysk befästning som skulle intas av allierade fallskärmsjägare. Det höll på att bli en total katastrof. Vinden gjorde att flertalet jägare hamnade helt fel. Av 750 nedsläppta jägare blev det endast 125 kvar för att utföra operationen. Till slut var befästningen i de allierades händer men priset för detta blev högt. Inte många överlevde.

      I en av dessa bunkers hade man riggat en Sound and Light-show som var mycket obehaglig. Krigets verklighet kröp under skinnet på mig och jag kan bara glädja mig åt vare sig jag eller mina nära har behövt uppleva något sådant.

      Besöket avslutades i shopen där jag handlade en väska dekorerad med vallmo, som är en symbol för fredsavtalet efter första världskriget.
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    • Day 28

      Entlang der Landungsstrände

      August 19, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Houlgate- Bayeux (97km)
      Gestern Abend gab es zum Einschlafen noch Feuerwerk 🎆 am Strand von Deauville (direkte Sicht aus dem Zelt genau wie auf den Sonnenaufgang heute Morgen 😊).
      Unsere Zeltnachbarn heute waren Kanadier (bzw. Québecois 😉), die eine zweimonatige Frankreichtour machen. Mal sehen, ob wir uns noch mal sehen.
      Für uns ging es heute lange direkt an der Küste entlang von Seebad zu Seebad (z.B. Carbourg - „La Blume - die Fete“) und dann vor allem an der Küste der Landung der Alliierten. Auch hier normale Urlaubsstimmung, aber auch immer wieder Hinweise auf die historische Bedeutung dieser Gegend.
      Schließlich führte uns ein Abstecher wieder mal ins Landesinnere nach Bayeux, das wir uns morgen ansehen werden. Untergekommen sind wir auf einem kleinen Landgut in der Nähe, wo wir mal wieder etwas Ruhe finden.😊
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    • Day 8

      Mont Saint Micheal

      April 28 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      We’ve had a full but very enjoyable day today. We left our little cottage at Vimoutiers this morning and travelled overt to Mont St Michael. It was a 2 hour drive but we set the gps to back roads and it was a lovely scenic drive for most of the way.
      Seeing Mont Saint Michael for the first time is a bit like Uluru. Suddenly it is there on the horizon getting closer and closer and bigger and bigger.
      We haven’t done our usual early thing today because of the long drive so we have to contend with all the other tourist and there is plenty of them.
      It’s a 2 and a half kilometres walk from the car park or you can take a shuttle. We opted to walk and it lovely watching the Abbey getting closer and closer.
      It still seems amazing to think they built this Abbey out on a tidal rock more than a thousand years ago.

      The abbey was amazing to visit so extensive and elaborate for its time.
      They were actually having a service in the Abbey. The choir sounded amazing.

      10 Facts About Mont-Saint-Michel
      It was born from a dream. ...
      It once had a train station. ...
      The island has the highest tides in Europe. ...
      The bay has quicksand. ...
      Its structure is symbolic of France's ancient social hierarchy. ...
      It has a hidden chapel. ...
      The town was never conquered. ...
      The Abbey had a stint as a prison.
      It has a British twin.
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    • Day 27

      St Etienne to Bayeux

      October 3, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

      Yesterday we left St Etienne to drive to Lyon to drop our travelling companions Peter and Vanessa off at the railway as they are now heading home - sad to see them go after three great weeks.
      Then we had 720 km drive to Bayeux and we had to be at our B & B by 7pm and a car crash on the motorway to Lyon had put us back an hour plus we had to change cars so didn’t leave Lyon until 10:30. Luckily it was nearly all motorway so cruise control on 130 km/hr (the speed limit) and made it with 30 minutes to spare - after another motorway car crash to had us diverted for a while.
      Absolutely lovely old house with only two other guest rooms and central to all the sights and eateries in town by 10 minutes walk.
      Headed straight to the famous Bayeux tapestry first thing to beat the crowds. Quite an amazing experience to see such an ancient work of artistry in good condition - it is actually embroidery and the colours are still vibrant. At 70 metres long it is housed in a room that allows one way traffic to view the story of Harold and William - so detailed and depicts everyday life as well as royalty and battles. Not allowed to take pictures so you’ll just have to look online!
      Then a walk around the old town and then to another museum for the other important war story around here - D Day and the Battle for Normandy 1944. We haven’t noticed many American tourists up till now but Bayeux is mainly all Americans - this area is to them what the Northern front is to Aussies I suppose. The museum is very detailed and well set out to keep your interest.
      Tomorrow we will head off to landing beaches and hopefully some Normandy oysters!
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    • Day 28

      Normandy DDay American (West) Beaches

      October 4, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Bayeux is perfectly positioned between the two American landing beaches to the west - Utah and Omaha (very original) and the three eastern British ( Gold and Sword) and Canadian (Juno) beaches.
      We decided to head west today and our first stop was the only still intact German gun battery at Longues-sur-Mer. There is a command post and four reinforced pill boxes with 150mm long range artillery piece. Set back about 500m from the cliffs they had a range of 19.5 kms! However due to intense bombing by air and then sea they didn’t have much impact on DDay (6th June 1944) and they were taken by British troops on the 7th June. Awesome and horrific all at the same time - you find yourself admiring the engineering and then you remember what they were made for - death and destruction.
      Next stop was Omaha Beach - the scene of terrible American casualties on the first day - a stretch of nearly 7km of open flat beach facing a small plateau of land before hills. The Germans had razed all the village buildings along the seaside and fortified it all with machine gun nests, cannon emplacements, barbed wire and mines, and three metre wide anti tank trenches. The first and second wave of infantry were cut to pieces mostly in the water and on the beach - the third wave finally breached the defences and turned the tide. By nightfall they had suffered 2400 deaths but had landed 34000 troops. I realised that this is the American equivalent to our Galliopi in terms of what it means to them - only they had Eisenhower and Montgomery in charge compared to us having Churchill!
      Lastly - because you have to be selective as there are so many sites and museums - we went to a site of unprecedented daring and courage . La Pointe du Hoc is a high promontory between Omaha and Utah beaches that had six 150mm artillery pieces that could reach both of the American landing beaches and the landing craft. So it was aerial bombed five times in the lead up - see archival photo - and the Germans expected a land attack from the Allies. However an elite US group - The Rangers - trained on the Isle of Man to come in by boat, launch rocket propelled grappling hooks with rope and rope ladders onto the 35m cliffs and scale up and surprise attack. Great plan except the ropes got soaked by sea water and were too heavy to launch from the boats so had to be unloaded at the base and launched by which time the Germans saw them - so they are climbing up whilst be shot at. Amazingly they scaled the cliffs in ten minutes and then two days of combat ensured before they overran the German post - only 150m from the cliff! 135 Rangers died.
      After all this we needed to relax a bit so we headed north to a harbour town to have a late lunch of some legendary Normandy oysters - magnificent and washed down with local cider which again is Normandy specialty.
      Sorry for the essay but the whole experience was very profound and sad because once again we are witnessing the same in Ukraine because of another megalomaniac.
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    Arrondissement de Caen

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