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A 37-day adventure by The Peregrino Read more
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  • TravelerCamino de Santiago Frances
    Day 8

    Day 8: To Los Arcos

    May 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Today we walked another 22k or about 14 miles and after a week of this, my feet are beginning to protest.
    Leaving Estella, you enter Auegi and then shortly after find yourself at the Fuente de Vino, a free public wine fountain. The only problem is we (and most pilgrims) arrived in the early morning. Of course, we still had to give it a try. 😎.
    Then we continued on the path past a spectacular field of poppies. (I considered running through them like in the Wizard of Oz but decided we would do better staying on the path.) Besides, my legs are well past running anywhere.
    As we walked on past fields of wheat and barley, up on top of the hill to our right was the castlely looking remains of the Castillo de San Esteban. Then through the little town of Villamayor de Monjardin Centro and the 12th century San Andres Church. We continued on past vineyards and olive trees then continued on through wildflower lined paths to the village of Los Arcos where we had our Albergue for the evening. After settling in, we walked to the town square for some much-needed cervezas. As is more common than not, we ran into friends we had made during our Camino and enjoyed a nice dinner on the plaza. Afterwards we walked into the cathedral Iglesia de Santa Maria which evoked an involuntary expletive upon entering. In such a relatively remote village, its splendor was almost overwhelming. Afterwards we took the short walk back to our albergue where we passed out after a long but beautiful day.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago Frances
    Day 9

    Day 9: To Viana

    May 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    I do want to comment before I continue that many of the photos I’m showing were actually taken by my sister Dorothy. Every evening we share our daily favorites and then I select a group to show. Although I’m writing this, she needs much of the credit for the visuals…
    Today we woke to a light rain falling. The good news is, yesterday we found a great little bakery that would open before we started walking, so our first stop was back past the cathedral in the rain for pastries and coffee. Then we started our leisurely 14-mile day. (For a guy that pre-Camino would average about 8000 steps a day, to talk about a “leisurely” 33,000 step day sounds absurd. But it’s really just going for a walk through beautiful scenery for about 4.5 hours.)
    Today we started off walking on a pathway past more fields of grain, olive trees and vineyards. Before long we were entering the beautiful old town of Sansol where we found a great little spot for a second breakfast. Along the way we met Mike the world traveler. He also is an avid photographer, so we enjoyed talking about photography and world travels. Later in the day he was of great assistance since he is multi-lingual, he became our official translator. Chatting with him made the miles pass quickly as we continued to pass more beautiful poppy fields and some great old vineyards. Before long we found ourselves in Viana about 3pm. After dropping off our packs we went out exploring to find a late lunch before a short nap. Then downstairs for a communal dinner and off to bed.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago Frances
    Day 10

    Day 10: To Navarette

    May 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Today's hike was basically like a Sunday walk in the park. Actually, much of it was exactly that. We left Viana about 7:30 this morning and made our way out a city gate on the way to Logroño and then on to Navarette. Before we got to the outskirts of Logroño we passed a little roadside stand that sold fruit and coffee (yea!) and offered to stamp our credentials.

    One of the most important items all pilgrims on the camino carry is their “Pilgrims Passport” or “Credential”. It’s a simple accordion folded card that you get before you start and then get stamped where you sleep and many other places. It grants you access to the inexpensive albergues (hostels), cheap pilgrim meals and proves where you walked if you want a Compostelle of distance certificate in Santiago.

    Logroño is a pretty big city, so we ended up taking a good while to just get through the downtown area and make our way out of the city. As you’re leaving, you enter a park that goes on for ever and ever and ever. Long hike and bike trails along with a lake and a restaurant.
    It was great seeing all the locals out enjoying the space.
    Most locals would smile and say “Buen Camino” as they passed. My favorites were a little boy about 7 years old that said a big friendly “Buen Camino” as he passed on his tiny bike with his parents on their bikes, and an elderly Spanish gentleman that managed to communicate to me in Spanish that he had done two Camino’s in his younger years.
    Finally, we made it to where we could see our next destination, Navarrete before we made our way up the hill to the town.

    Although today's hike was fairly flat, it was long (24k or about 16 miles) and we were beat by the time we made it to our room. After a little break we did laundry and hung it on our balcony to dry, and then walked around town and checked out the (incredible and I’m not a “religious” person.) cathedral. Afterwards we went to the bar that’s directly across from our Hostal and ordered a couple of glasses of wine.

    One cool tidbit about Spain; when you order wine at a bar, they give you free Pincho’s (a lite snack) with your wine. The total cost for the two glasses of wine and pincho’s; 3€ ($3.25). I could get used to that…
    Now even though it’s not yet 9pm, we’re in bed listening to the music drifting into our room from the bar across the street and ready to drift off to sleep.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago Frances
    Day 11

    Day 11: To Azofra

    May 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    This morning I was looking up the address to where we are staying tonight in Apple Maps and it happily told me it would take 16 minutes to get to Azofra. That confirmed driving is definitely faster than walking… about 5 hours and twenty minutes faster. Although you definitely see, hear, smell & feel more taking the slow way.
    Today’s hike was the longest so far at about 25.5 kilometers. As of today I’ve officially hiked right at 200 kilometers on the Camino (not counting walking around towns to eat and drink good wine.) Only 600 more to go. Speaking of wine, after walking past just over a gazillion vineyards, I understand why it’s so cheap here.
    The morning started by taking an (unintentional but fortunate) alternate path at added about 1k to our hike but allowed us to stop at a nice place for coffee and make a friend with a burro (with the help of a sugar cube I have been carrying just for such bribery.) Then the path climbed up and up to where a musician from Galicia was busting on the trail. It was great to pause and catch our breath and let his music relax us to continue. On we walked towards Nájera. Entering the town was the least esthetically pleasing (let’s just say ugliest) part of the Camino so far. To keep things positive, I going to post a photo of a beautiful fence laden with roses. Nájera is a nice town and Dorothy and I had a great lunch there before continuing up past the red rocks that flank the town into more vineyards. (They really are beautiful). Finally, we made it into our little picturesque town of Azofra.
    Starting tomorrow my Camino will be markedly different. For the past couple of weeks it’s been wonderful sharing the company of my sister Dorothy on the camino. It’s been a true pleasure. I’ve also been fortunate to be able to share her photos here with you. Tomorrow she is leaving to join her husband Steve on vacation and honestly, I’m very sad to see her go.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago Frances
    Day 12

    Day 12: To Grañón

    May 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    The vineyards have turned to grain. It was a beautiful hike today through multiple shades of green. Long trails into the horizon were dotted with pilgrims making their way to their next stop. I (only) did about 16 miles or 25 kilometers today but by 2:30 this afternoon my feet were done so I enjoyed a nice sandwich and vino tinto and called it a day. Later in the day I went to a Pilgrims blessing at the church. (I didn’t understand a word, but it was still impressive.) Speaking of language barriers, afterwards I enjoyed a nice pilgrims meal at the albergue. There were four French, two Polish, two Austrian’s, one Spaniard and me. Only one Austrian and one of the French women spoke some English and were able to translate enough for me to understand the various conversations. One of the most wonderful aspects of the Camino are all the wonderful people you meet from all around the world and at you truly do all have the same goal. And, although many speak English, I do wish I spoke another language or two.Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago Frances
    Day 13

    Day 13: To Espinosa del Camino

    May 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Today was a day of rain, flowers and reflection.
    I left the Albergue about 7:15 this morning and before very long I was taking off my pack to put on my poncho in the rain, it stayed on until I was just a few kilometers from Espinosa del Camino about 27 kilometers (17miles) later.
    Despite the rain, it was a nice day because every few kilometers I walked through a tiny town and would take off my shoes for a moment and enjoy a cup of coffee. I also ran into a few friends during my coffee stops and that’s always a highlight. (That also no doubt added to my time, but it was well worth the breaks.) Perhaps because I hiked alone all day, today was a longer day. (I’ve found I’m a slightly slower walker than many, but if I’m with someone, I will match their pace.)
    One of the remarkable things about the Camino is the amount of resources and support it gets from the communities. In addition to the artwork you often pass, (I passed several murals today celebrating the pilgrims), there are regular fuentes (water fountains) and amazingly well marked trails (it's hard to miss the yellow arrows (or inlaid bronze shells on the sidewalks in larger cities)) that are well kept, mowed and some even have stone pathways where regular paths may be subject to erosion. Many paths seem to follow rural roadways, but many no doubt cross private land.
    Another random example today of supporting the pilgrims, this afternoon I passed a chair placed under a tree, literally in the middle of nowhere, just to provide a place to rest if you need it.
    Today someone in front of me was leaving little bouquets of wildflowers in the road. At first I thought someone had dropped one, then after passing others on the trail it was obvious it was a pattern (a gift to the walkers). Although I only photographed a couple, I passed at least 4 of them on todays hike. I have no idea who left them, but I do know they no doubt brought smiles to many Peregrinos following behind them.
    Near the end of the day, I met a nice horse and rider that is doing the Camino. When I arrived at my Albergue “La Taberna”, I discovered the rider is staying here also.
    (The horse is sleeping outside.)    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago Frances
    Day 14

    Day 14: To Cardeñuela Riopoco

    May 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 63 °F

    Today was a nice but challenging day. I started off about 8:00 this morning, left an apple from my pack for the horse, and then walked for about 6.5 hours (not counting lunch, visiting, etc. for a total of just over 30 kilometers or nearly 19 miles.) I really pushed a bit more than I have been, because I wanted to get close to Burgos so I will have time to explore the city tomorrow. I also splurged and actually booked a ‘real’ hotel for tomorrow night. The weather was nice today and one of my Camino family caught up with me, (Elena from Bulgaria) so we walked together for the first part of the day, then I walked with my Swedish friends Maria and Oso for the last part. As I’ve mentioned previously, I always tend to walk faster when I’m around others.
    One thing I have been doing the past few days is carrying my entire backpack instead of getting a few pounds off my back by forwarding a daypack to the next destination. The majority of people don’t actually carry everything on their back that they need. Most just carry a day pack and there are services that will take your big pack to your next albergue for 6€. Since I prefer the feel of my ‘real backpack’, I’ve been sorta doing the reverse by carrying my backpack and forwarding a little daypack with dirty clothes, electronic cords etc. and saving a few pounds. It is nice getting rid of the extra pounds, but the downside is you must decide in advance where you are going to want to stop for the evening instead of letting your body decide. The reality is however, they say “we carry our fears” and one of my fears is that I will arrive in a village and there won’t be an available bed for me. So, I will probably continue to book a bed the evening before to know for sure. Tomorrow, Burgos.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago Frances
    Day 15

    Day 15: To Burgos

    May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    I intentionally hiked a longer day yesterday so today would be a “short” 16-kilometer day and I would have time to explore Burgos. I passed one small village Orbaneja Riopoco before entering the outskirts and walking past the airport. After that it was pretty much just business suburbs (and more churches of course) until I got near the old town city center. I went straight to my hotel to drop off my pack and clean up before exploring the old town. I did pass a large outdoor photography exhibit on my way to my hotel.
    Although I really like the group dinners in the albergues, I’m less of a fan of sleeping in a room with multiple bunk beds, so I splurged and used my son's employee discount (he is a cook for a major hotel chain) and booked a nice hotel room. Thank you Dustin! My own room with an en-suite bath was a luxury!
    After settling into my hotel, I went out exploring the old town of Burgos and the Cathedral. Not being critical here, the gates to the old town really reminded me of something you would see at Disneyworld. (Guessing these gates are older…) The first thing you see when entering the old city is the Burgos cathedral. It’s enormous. I purchased a discount peregrino ticket by showing my pilgrims passport and proceeded to walk through the tour. The place is amazing. As I’ve previously expressed, I’m not religious and certainly not Catholic (although I did sing for a while in a Catholic choir…. It’s a long story…) still it was impossible not to see the beauty and feel the majesty of the art and architecture. Afterwards I had a nice dinner and Vino Tinto at an outdoor bar on the plaza before retiring to my (wonderful) hotel room and a hot bath.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago Frances
    Day 16

    Day 16: To Hornillos del Camino

    May 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    This morning I woke up in my comfy hotel and repacked and organized my backpack before meeting one of my Camino friends I’ve been walking with the past few days downstairs for breakfast. Elana from Bulgaria was diagnosed yesterday with tendonitis in her ankle so she is staying off of it, per the free ER Dr’s orders. Ahh… universal health coverage… (Drop by any hospital and they will do what it takes to get you better for free…)

    It’s interesting how people you meet on the Camino disappear over the next or previous hill because of a difference in walking pace or a meal stop and then magically reappear days later. Yesterday, in the Burgos plaza, I ran into a family from New Zealand that Dorothy and I met in SJPDP the evening before we started the Camino. When I arrived at my albergue this afternoon, here they are again! You never know who you may see again, and who you may not. Sorta like life I suppose…

    Back to my Camino, I started a bit late (nearly 9am) walking out of Burgos. It really is a pretty town so I spent a little more time walking around. Leaving town there were a number of art cutouts representing Peregrinos in different styles. When I reached the village of Tardajos there was a festival going on where people were dressed in costumes including the (adorable) children. I asked a local and was told it was an annual local celebration; ‘La Virgin de las Aguas’. (The Virgin of the Waters.)

    Passing through Rabé de las Calzadas there were several murals celebrating the peregrinos and one that confirmed I am between 1/3 and 1/2 the way to Santiago. Yea! One step at a time…
    A few minutes later I passed a small church with a couple of elderly folks sitting on the front porch and a sister in the doorway. I motioned to see if it was ok for me to take a photo and she motioned me in. Once inside she gave me a tiny gold medallion with a hug, then wished me “Buen Camino” and stamped my passport with an image of the medallion and a Peregrino. It instantly became my favorite sello (or seal) for my pilgrims passport. It was very sweet and a moment I won’t forget.

    Today I entered the Meseta. It’s a large fairly flat area in Spain that you walk through on the Camino between Burgos and Leon. Many peregrinos actually skip over it entirely and take a bus to Leon because of its reputation for being hot and visually dull. I would agree with the ‘hot’ description (and I’m here before the really hot months), but I would definitely not call it dull. So, speaking of ‘hot’, I became the coolest peregrino around by putting on my official hiking umbrella with a mounting attachment for my backpack. I may (or may not) have looked cool, but I was cool, and that’s what counts.
    As I walked, I continued past wheat and barley fields and a gazillion wildflowers lining the pathways. Before long I entered Hornillos de las Camino (my shelter for the evening.) As soon as I arrived at my albergue, I dropped off my backpack and then went to the square for a glass of wine.
    That evening at the albergue they served up a great pilgrims dinner including a good salad and the largest iron skillet I’ve ever seen full of Paella. After a great dinner, I was off to bed.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago Frances
    Day 17

    Day 17: To Castrojeriz

    May 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    I was able to get out of my albergue about 7:00 this morning and start my hike to Castrojeriz.
    I had a minor emergency yesterday evening when I discovered I must have left my towel at my previous albergue, (albergues don’t provide towels, they’re strictly BYOT) so I was unable to take a shower and needless to say, every little village in Spain doesn’t sell lightweight fast drying microfiber towels (or any towels for that matter). So, my solution was to stay in an inexpensive hotel this evening and purchase one of their hand towels until I can get something better. (They actually ended up gifting it to me.) Simply going without a shower isn’t really a viable option…

    Shortly after starting out this morning I met Katarina and her daughter Julia from Sweden.
    On the trail today there were more spectacular poppy fields. (I never get tired of those.) so my Swedish friends and I took the opportunity to take each others photos with the pretty background.

    About two and a half hours into todays hike, below us in a little valley, the village of Hontanas suddenly appeared. It was the perfect time to stop, take off our shoes and get some coffee and breakfast before continuing.

    A couple of hours later we came across the Monastery of San Anton ruins. It seemed pretty incongruous to have such a large structure literally in the middle of nowhere. (It was very cool though.)
    A little history….
    The convent was founded in 1146 under the patronage of King Alfonzo VII and was dedicated to care of the pilgrims and treating the “Fire of San Anton”, a desease that spread during the Middle Ages. The huge arched entrance was added in the 1400’s.
    (That’s the end of today’s history lesson….)
    We stopped and took our shoes off for a bit (never miss an opportunity) before heading out again for Castrojeriz

    Approaching the town you see the Castillo (Castle) de Castrojeriz up on the hilltop and a large Catholic Church below surrounded by scattered poppy fields below. (The village climbs up the hill to the left, but you can’t see it in my photo.) After passing the church I made my way up the hill into the village. (When you’re walking, villages seem to always be on hilltops even if they are down in valleys.) Although it was still early afternoon I had walked over 22k and was feeling pretty beat so I settled into my hotel for a (much needed) bath. Then I went down to the bar for the 12€ Menú del Dia (includes the wine) and took the afternoon off. Back to my previous comment of some considering the Meseta to be ‘dull’, it’s actually pretty spectacular in spring.    Read more

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