Andalucia, Spain

January - March 2024
The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.
— Saint Augustine
Read more
  • 99footprints
  • 3countries
  • 67days
  • 1.4kphotos
  • 55videos
  • 17.0kkilometers
  • 6.9kkilometers
  • Day 90

    Background Regarding our Winter Travels

    April 1 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Each of our travel blogs have included an introduction similar to the one below with a new add-on at the bottom regarding new plans. This introduction has been growing and growing but I like to keep this going as a summary of our life’s major adventures. I have decided to add this to the end of the book as it is too long for an introduction! This year's winter trip is number 19!

    Here's how we caught the travel bug...

    In 1999, after taking a one year leave of absence from our teaching jobs, selling our house and purging most of what we owned, Chris and I packed our bags into a van and headed to Zamora, Michoacan, Mexico, to teach English to Mexican students. Our youngest daughter Caitlin had already left home to perform for a year with a traveling group called Up With People. Our other daughter, Amy had studied Spanish at school, so she traveled to Mexico with us, helping us navigate our way to Zamora. Shortly after we got to our destination, she flew home and started her 3rd year of university. She lived in a townhouse, with two other students, that we had purchased to store 1 roomful of our valuables and to have a place to 'come home to' when we returned. During that year that we taught in Mexico, we fell in love with its daily blue skies and sun, and the latino lifestyle. We promised ourselves, that in our retirement we would return.

    Four years later, after retiring from teaching, we went back to Mexico. We spent four months on the shores of Lake Chapala in Mexico, in a beautiful house where we made lots of wonderful friends.

    The second year we backpacked through Central America from Guatemala to Panama taking a puppet theatre and puppets with us.

    The third year we focused on learning more about the Mayan culture by spending a month in the Yucatan Peninsula, a month in Guatemala, a month backpacking from San Cristobal, in the Chiapas, up the Pacific coast of Mexico to Puerto Vallarta. Along the way, we had several visits with friends. Finally, we ended up once more in Ajijic on Lake Chapala, where we stayed for a month.

    The fifth year, we felt that we wanted to venture a little further south so we did something a little different. We headed to South America following a three week layover in Guatemala where we spent Christmas and New Year's eve with our daughters and one of our future son-in-laws. We took and distributed 300 pairs of reading glasses, continued to learn Spanish and volunteered for two organizations in needy communities in both Guatemala and Ecuador. We helped to paint a huge mural on the side of a coliseum with artist, Susan Shanley. The highlight of our trip was the creation of a Grand Circus of Puppets which was performed by all the children in a Biblioteca (library), as well as 25 volunteers, in Banos, Ecuador.

    Year Six was a favourite of ours. We spent a month in Peru, three months in Bolivia and then returned to Peru to see Machu Picchu. Because we had enjoyed volunteering in the Arte del Mundo library in Ecuador the previous year, we looked for another library to help out in Bolivia. We were able to find another wonderful, non-profit organization called Biblioworks, based in the capital city of Sucre.

    <a href="http://biblioworks.org/&quot; target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://biblioworks.org/</a&gt;

    The North Carolina group who runs this project provides disadvantaged Bolivian communities, in the vicinity of Sucre, with access to books and learning materials. Since 2005, they have been able to build 12 community libraries, support teachers and students, and put countless books in the hands of adults in both North and South America. The eighth library opened when we were there and we took part in an exciting inauguration with our amazing 'boss' from South Carolina, Matt Lynn. What a wonderful organization.

    Our very good friends, Pat and Gail, who we met in Mexico in 1999/2000, joined us in February and March. Due to the generosity of many of our good Ontario friends, we took down 6 puppets which were used in a puppet show, puppet-making workshop materials (so that 200 children can make simple rod puppets), an educational parachute for games, and 200 pairs of
    reading glasses. Four classes at Greensville Public School, near Dundas, Ontario, prepared artwork which we took to Bolivia as part of an art exchange. Fun!

    The next three years were spent back in Mexico. Year Seven was in Ajijic, helping at the Tepehua Community Centre. A fantastic lady, Moonyeen King, was trying to help out the extremely poor people in this part of Chapala by forming a centre where people could eat a hot meal and have a shower once a week, get medical aid and feel that they were part of a community. We helped out by distributing food, playing with the kids, performed a Xmas puppet show and organized the painting of a huge mural on the side of the building, once again led by artist, Susan Shanley. We also travelled to the beautiful Sierra Gorda where we met two very special people, Margarita and Juan, as well as a traveling group of puppeteers. Two hundred pairs of reading glasses were also distributed.

    Year Eight saw us in Queretaro, Mexico - a beautiful old city, just on the west side of Mexico City. There we studied more Spanish and helped out a young puppeteer, Diego Ugalde. Once again we traveled into the amazing Sierra Gorda and then went north to ride the El Chepe train in the Copper Canyon in Chihuahua.

    Year Nine. Back to Mexico, but this time in a city south of Mexico City, Cuernavaca. We stayed in a lovely house with beautiful gardens, hidden behind high walls. We started this trip by flying to Manzanillo and spending a week on the ocean with our friends, Pat and Gail. Then off to Cuernavaca where they joined us for a week. We flew to Puerto Escondido for Chris' birthday and saw our friend from Panama, Scott, as well as cottage neighbours, Dale and Michelle. We helped out a young artist who was setting up a business in Cuernavaca. From him we learned how to make traditional Papel Piedra dolls. In March, we flew to Los Angeles and did something that we have never done before. We rented an ESCAPE campervan for a month and camped through South California, Arizona, Utah and Nevada. Fabulous!

    Year Ten had a big change... Where did we go, and why? Well, I happened to read a blog entry entitled, "Ten Reasons You Should visit Namibia" by fellow Canadian travelers, Kevin and Ruth, and I was hooked.

    http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog/ladyandtra…;

    I easily convinced Chris, and without much effort, in the way of coaxing, enticed our friends, Pat and Gail, to join us in Windhoek, Namibia? We went off on a camping safari trip extraordinaire in Namibia and Botswana! Of course, we took puppets for a travelling puppet show, ukuleles and a parachute to give away to a needy community. Pat and Gail flew home in February and we had a few weeks to kill so flew to Capetown, South Africa, where we rented a car and drove a couple of thousand kilometers along the beautiful Indian Ocean coast staying in guesthouses along the way.

    After that amazing trip, we had to rethink where we would like to spend a winter and we came up with a crazy plan.

    When we were in Ecuador, we heard stories from travellers about the thrill of sailing through the San Blas Islands in Panama and the rugged beauty of Colombia.

    So Year Eleven in 2015, was the year that we saw for ourselves what others have been talking about. But Colombia wasn't the only place we visited. The Yucatan and Cuba were also in the picture!

    President Obama recently made the decision to allow Americans to legally visit Cuba and we know that major changes will take place. We wanted to see the real Cuba before those changes took place. It was an eye-opener.

    So, as we ask ourselves every summer, "Where will we spend our winter this year?".

    We are in good shape, physically, and are still up for some adventure so for Year Twelve in 2016, we decided to go back to Colombia and see some of the beautiful areas that we did not get a chance to see on last year's trip. The difference will be that we will meet up with our good friends Pat and Gail and do some parts of this trip together. Ahhh, more Colombian coffee, birds plus the Amazon and good times with our travelling friends.

    Year Thirteen, 2017. We have missed visiting Mexico but still want to continue heading south in South America. So this year, we will spend a month in Uruguay (and a few days in Buenos Aires) and then fly to Mexico City. We have rented a beautiful house for 3 months in Patzcuaro, Mexico. Dear Texan friends live there. We haven’t seen them for at least ten years. It will be a wonderful reunion. Pat and Gail may also come down for a visit and we hope our daughters will have the time to come down too. (These plans sadly didn’t happen.)

    Year Fourteen, 2018/19. A big change in plans this year. We are heading to Portugal! Not just the mainland, but also to the lovely islands of Madeira and several of the Azore Islands. In fact, our daughters and their families have already bought their plane tickets to Sao Miguel in the Azores and will be joining us during the March Break. What fun we will have!

    Year Fifteen, 2019/20. Back to Mexico where we will spend Christmas and New Years close to Puerto Vallarta, in the tiny mountain village of Mascota, then three weeks with our travelling buddies from Bellingham, Washington, Pat and Gail, in the Pacific beach village of Chacala. But that’s not all. At the end of January, we will fly to New Zealand for an action-packed, two month road trip. A great place to travel for Chris’ 70th!

    Well, that trip was cut short by 2 weeks, when the Canadian government told travellers to return home due to the spread of the Corona Virus. In 2021, we did not go on a winter trip. It was the first winter that we stayed home since 2004.

    Year Sixteen, 2022. In October 2021, we took a wonderful weeklong trip to Vancouver Island with our two older grandkids, Audrey (9) and Cal (8) to visit Great Grandma Peg for her 99th birthday. We rented a motorhome in Victoria and drove to Courtenay where she lives. Totem poles, whale watching, hiking through tall trees, oh my!

    We felt that we needed to get back into the saddle and spend the winter in a warm and sunny place. Our longtime friend Jeremy Ament said that he was building a house in Majahua, Guerrero, Mexico on the Pacific Ocean. If we wanted to rent it, we could. We jumped on his offer and for Year Seventeen, we glamped in his beautiful house with a pool in the jungle, far from Covid sicknesses. A little paradise for Connie’s upcoming 70th birthday!

    Year Eighteen, 2023. Once again, we took a short trip to Vancouver Island with Chris’ older sister Barbara. Chris’ mom turned 100 on October 7, so we surprised her with a birthday party at Chris’s twin sister’s place in Bowser. What a wonderful party that turned out to be!

    In December 2023, off we went to a bucket list country for one month- Egypt! We returned to Ontario in mid January for a week and then headed back to Mexico to rest and to meet up with our good friends, Pat and Gail, in Chacala, Mexico.

    Year Nineteen, 2024! Wow!!! So where this time? Spain it is! Our friend, Janet, lived there as a teenager and most of our friends have already visited this interesting country so we decided it was time for us. Two months mainly in the Andalucia area and then one month revisiting and exploring new islands in the lovely Azores. This is what I wrote last year - P.S. We are still contemplating several possibilities for 2024 - Mongolia, Spain, Malawi, and maybe we would go back to see more of the Azores, ....

    NOTE: The blog will be written and left in draft form. The way that you see it, is the way it was written, full of typos and bad grammar but good feelings. Lol.
    Read more

  • Day 67

    Now on to the Azores from Madrid, Spain

    March 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We tidied up the apartment and we were able to leave by 8:30 a.m.

    Yesterday we did a dry run through of how to get Metro tickets from the Sol metro stop to the airport. It’s a lot cheaper to take the Metro than a taxi. A lady gave us a lesson on using the ticket machine and we practiced a bit so that the next day we wouldn’t have any issues.

    At 8:30 in the morning, the Sol plaza is pretty quiet and so was the metro. It was raining a bit but we were only a 3 minute walk to the Metro. Once we got on the subway, we wouldn’t be outside until we got to Terceira. Good day to travel.

    Our ticket buying went well and we took #1 to Tribunal, then #10 to Nuevo Ministerios, and finally #8 to the airport. It took us about an hour and cost us $9.00 Cdn. each.

    So now, we have gone through security and are just waiting. The coffee is good and we have time to do a little Azores planning. The plane to Lisbon is supposed to leave at 12:10 pm. but is late so leaves at 12:50. Time for a lunch here.

    The flight from Madrid to Lisbon took 1 hour - a little rocky as there were high winds. There is a 1 hour time difference. We leave in 1 hour for Terceira Island.

    We landed in the Lajes airport - an American Army base. A quick taxi ride brought us to the hostel, Hostal da Palmeria in Praia da Victoria, where we will stay in for 2 nights. It is perfect!

    P.S. It’s warm here!
    Read more

  • Day 66

    Random Final Thoughts about Our Trip

    March 8 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Tomorrow morning, we will leave Spain after our very full trip over the past two months. We just wanted to write a little about some of our observations as we’ve learned a lot.

    Packing

    We usually pack in layers as the weather usually changes over a 2 or 3 month period. Our most used clothing in Spain were our jeans and lightweight black pants, short and long sleeved tshirts, running shoes and fleece/puffer jackets. - standard uniforms for Spanish people. I didn’t need to bring a skirt at this time of year or capris. My leggings and tank top came in handy when it was really chilly. Our Isotoner slippers were used on a daily basis. We bought toques and at times, really appreciated them! Our bathing suits never got wet.
    We bought a hot water bottle that we used a fair bit after long walks. My small lululemon crossbody purse was perfect for my phone, passports, sunglasses, etc.

    Favourite Cities

    Actually, we weren’t disappointed in any place that we visited. Maybe Cordoba was a favourite. Even though we were travelling during the off season, there were a lot of tourists everywhere.

    Random Observations

    - the most often heard Spanish word is “Vale” that is like our “Okay”
    - we appreciated hearing and seeing all the talented street musicians
    - people were always kind and helpful
    - they love their bicycles and scooters here
    - a lot of Spaniard smoke! You can smell it in the air
    - very few English channels on TV, but we could watch Property Brothers every night and Colombo.
    - Menu del Dia lunches, Monday to Friday, are economical and filling.
    - the wine and beer are very inexpensive
    - grocery stores have everything that we needed.
    - we were turned on to eating Fine Oatmeal Flakes (no cook) with yogurt, honey and nuts for breakfast
    - not all accommodations provided kettles, but often they will give you one if you need one for a hot water bottle. LOL.
    - breakfast here usually consists of a coffee or juice and toast spread with olive oil and covered with tiny pieces of tomato.
    - 9 a.m. was not too early for a vodka and water chaser
    - the architecture everywhere was spectacular
    - amongst everyone had a little dog
    - all the cafes and restaurants were full of people after 9 p.m.
    - when friends get together they all talk loudly, all at the same time, and they have a lot to say!
    - tapas were great and sharing food is expected
    - there are a lot of seafood and pork items on the menus
    - we never got used to the late dining habits in Spain
    -public transportation (buses, subways and trains) in the big cities was easy and always on schedule
    - the high speed trains are awesome
    - for the most part, the wifi was very good
    Read more

  • Day 66

    Our Last Night in Spain

    March 8 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Our last night in Spain, what to do? We decided to walk down Spain’s version of Fifth Avenue - the Gran Via.

    This boulevard was built primarily between 1910 and the 1930’s. It wowed us a bit with its early 20th Century architecture. It has wide sidewalks and traffic is limited to buses and taxis.

    The Gran Via is filled with luxury and trendy brand-name stores. In the 1930s, a section of the Gran Via was built to look like the buildings of Chicago and New York City. There’s a Schweppes Building and a section that is built to look like Broadway with theatres offering musicals and plays.

    We were looking for the Dear Hotel. We read that it has a rooftop lounge and a small bar and thought that it would be a good place to have a final drink to toast our time in Spain.
    We walked confidently through the hotel lobby, rode the elevator to the top and climbed the stairs to the rooftop. Walking up to the outside bar was a little daunting and Chris swore that the building moved because of the wind. Hmmmn. Bottom line is that the view from there was amazing! Too cold for a cold drink but great for taking photos.

    We walked back home and had a drink and tasty chicken wings at Tapas and Canas. There just happened to be two seats available in the bar. Very unusual for a Friday night. It was great though. Very Spanish - loud and friendly.

    We toasted our success at planning this trip. We had a wonderful two months in this great country.
    Read more

  • Day 65

    Retiro Park

    March 7 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Chris was itching to get his walk in, and I just wanted to chill, so he went off to visit Retiro Park that is located near the Prado.

    At one time, this majestic 300 acres park was owned by royalty but it has been a place for commoners ever since Charles III opened it up to the public in the late 18th Century.

    There is a big lake there, El Estanque, where people rent rowboats and a grand boulevard of statues lead to the Prado.
    Read more

  • Day 64

    The Prado Museum

    March 6 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    With more than 1,800 famous paintings on display, in 100 rooms on four floors, we had our day cut out for us!

    The collection dates back to the Spanish monarchs of the 16th and 17th centuries. Their passion for collecting art and decorating their palaces with the best artwork, meant that at the end of the 17th century the finest royal collection in Europe was in Spain.

    In 1819, the museum opened and since that date the building has been remodelled and enlarged to house its constantly growing collection. At present it holds more than 3,000 canvases.

    With a Rick Steve’s suggested self-guided tour, we felt confident enough to tackle this vast museum on our own while hitting the highlights. The paintings had good descriptions in English that helped us to understand what we saw.

    To start we saw altarpieces of early religious art by Hieronymus Bosch such as The Garden of Earthly Delights (1505). All of his images teach a religious messages that the pleasures of life are fleeting and we better avoid them or we’ll end up in hell.

    We went on to see the realism of the Renaissance (1500s) with paintings by Raphael, Fra Angelico, Mantegna and Albrecht Durer.

    Renaissance art spread to Spain which was Europes richest country at the time. One of the most famous court painters at this time was Velazquez. The most important painting in the museum was one that he painted called Las Meninas (1656). Another famous painter was Murillo who admired Velazquez.

    Spain’s Golden Age kings, Charles V and Philip II both hired Europes premier painter - the Venetian painter Titian to paint their portraits around 1550.

    Now we moved on to see the works of El Greco, Rubens and Goya. The world was changing and revolution was in the air. Goya painted the changing times and became a political rebel and a champion for the Revolution in France. That was all okay until the supposed hero of the Revolution, Napoleon, turned into a tyrant and invaded Spain. Goya through his paintings documented what happened during this time.

    Goya also painted what they called “ cartoons” that were the templates for the big tapestries that hung on nobles’ walls.

    At 46, he developed a mysterious illness (possibly syphilis) and lost his hearing.

    After four hours of walking through this huge museum, we came to the last paintings done by Goya. Depressed, he retired to his small home when he was in his 70s, and smeared his walls with his “black paintings”. Dark in colour and mood. During this period In his life he painted his nightmares. The paintings are actual murals painted on the wallpaper on the walls of his house and later carefully transferred onto canvas.

    By the way, even with our little guide and the museum map, it was hard to figure out where to go in this huge museum. It was a labyrinth of rooms with beautiful works of art on every wall.

    It was strictly prohibited to take photos in the Prado Museum. Argh…But many of the paintings we saw are on online so guess what? I’m going to post a few of the more famous ones I found and a few that Chris sneakily took…
    Read more

  • Day 62

    Pork in Spain

    March 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Everywhere we have been, we have seen a lot of pork legs on display as well as gourmet pork products - great for charcuteries and sandwiches. But we wondered where that tradition of eating pork came from when Spain had been occupied for so long by Muslims and Jews, who didn’t eat pork.

    Well, I found an answer…

    During the Spanish Inquisition, Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand issued royal decrees that gave all Jews and Muslims living in Spain three not very appealing options: convert to Catholicism, leave the country for good or burn at the stake. Many chose to leave, however there were some who decided to stay.

    The problem was that they wanted to stay, but they didn’t want to convert to Catholicism, so they had to pretend that they had converted. So they hung pork legs to show that their religion had changed and they were willing to eat pork! Of course, once one person started to do this as a way to show their Catholicism, everyone started doing it. So it spread around the country.

    Sounds like a good answer…
    Read more

  • Day 62

    The Royal Armoury

    March 4 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    In the Royal Armoury, we saw weapons and armour of several great Spanish historical figures. The area in the centre was filled with knights in armour on armoured horses. What an amazing collection!

    Downstairs there was a collection of children’s ‘training’ armour that they used to learn and practice graceful riding, fighting and playing. I can’t imagine our grandkids wanting to wear those while jumping on the trampoline!
    Read more

  • Day 62

    Spain’s Royal Palace - Wow!

    March 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    For three centuries, Spain’s royal family has called Madrid’s Royal Palace home. It is Europe’s largest palace with 3,418 rooms and almost 1.5 million square feet. It’s Europe’s third greatest palace after Versailles and Vienna’s Schonbrunn.

    It started out as a wooden fortress but that burnt down and the Palace that is there now was started in 1738 and completed almost 18 years later, in 1764.

    It is filled with luxurious tapestries, gorgeous chandeliers, frescoes, priceless porcelain and a bronze decor covered in gold leaf. The palace is still used as the ceremonial palace for formal state receptions, royal weddings and … for tourists. We only saw 22 of the rooms and it took us 2 hours to gawk at the splendours in these rooms and to do a lot of walking.

    The walls between the rooms are very wide. Apparently, these hid service corridors for servants, who could scurry about, unseen.

    We weren’t allowed to take photos in the palace even though Chris asked every attendant that he saw if we could. LoL. The good thing is that people have posted photos of the rooms so I have included some of these photos.

    Once we left the palace, we went across the open-air courtyard to the Royal Armoury. The photos are in the next footprint.
    Read more

  • Day 62

    Madrid’s Historic Centre - Plaza Major

    March 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Yesterday, we booked 2 pm starting time tickets for the Royal Palace so we had the morning to explore the historic Plaza Major.

    This large, cobblestoned plaza dates back to Madrid’s glory days in the 1600s when it was the main square, and not the Puerta de Sol. In 1619, the king made Madrid the capital of Spain and soon afterwards a former market place was transformed into this plaza.

    The four-storey buildings around the square are all symmetrical with windows, balconies, slate roofs and steepled towers all the same.

    In the 17th century, this plaza was where all the important things happened - bullfights, Carnaval activities, Royal pageantry and even the trials and gruesome punishments of the Inquisition. Up to 50,000 people could crowd into this square for such spectacles.

    Before entering one of the arcades of the plaza, we happened to see several people looking up above a clockmaker’s store. And what were they looking at? The Salt Street Watchmaker.

    He’s an automaton, perched on a balcony over an old clock and watch store. Every half-hour this mechanical man comes to life to work on his timepiece. The music that plays for him is “Madrid” from a traditional Madrid zarzuela (operetta), with lyrics that literally sing the praises of the city.

    The streets in this area are named after the important buildings or trades that were found on each street. So there is a Salt Street, an Embroiderer’s Street, the Mail Street, etc. Medieval street signs posted on the corners of the buildings included pictures so the illiterate could read them.

    We entered the square where lots of activities were going on while being watched by mounted police. All around the square, tables with big umbrellas with heaters were set up and of course people socializing and drinking coffee or beer/wine.

    Walking under the arcade, we came to a fascinating bar called La Torre del Oro Bar Andalu. The interior is a temple to bullfighting with walls totally covered in photos (some very glory) of famous bullfighting moments. The photos showed matadors having both very good and bad days. Above the bar are stuffed bull heads with their names, weight, birth date, owner, date of death and the matador that killed him and the location. We may have nightmares tonight!

    A lot of the men, and some women, wear a very traditional tweed hat with a brim called a parpusa. It looks similar to a Peaky Blinders hat. We saw an old shop (from 1894) that was selling these hats. They were a range of prices but many in this shop were selling for over 100 euros, or around $150 Cdn!

    We saw that several people were eating churros and dipping them in hot chocolate. We have ate churros in Mexico but haven’t tried a Spanish one so we had a break, sat at one of the tables in the square and sampled one while people watching. They taste similar to the ones we are used to but are not coated in as much sugar.

    Leaving the square, we came to a street with underground bars. Plaza Major was built on a slope and the underground vaults are part of the structure that braces the levelled plaza.

    Right beside this area, is the Mercado de San Miguel (1916). It is the oldest surviving market hall and has about 30 vendors . It is different than other markets that we have seen as you can buy and eat a variety of tapas here along with a glass of wine, Sherry or vermouth. It would be a good place for a quick lunch.

    Around the corner, there was a brick, not stone, church and convent built in 1607. A dozen steps away, there is a big brown door and a sign that says Venta de Dulces (Sweets for Sale). We walked in and went down a dark hallway to another sign that said Torno . This is a lazy Susan that lets nuns sell their baked goods without being seen. We checked the price list and what was being offered. The quantities were large so we didn’t buy anything but another lady did and we watched. You tell the hidden nun what you wanted, the lazy Susan turns and your goods appear. Then you put your money on the torno and if you need change it will appear in another turn. Lol. The other lady got a big box of almond shortbread cookies covered in icing sugar. She offered them to us to sample and they were good but oh so many!

    The oldest square in Madrid, Plaza de La Villa, was right around the corner and in this plaza the oldest building/tower (1494) in Madrid is located. The door is in the shape of Arabic doors, a keyhole shape. This building was also used as a prison at one time.

    Then on we went past the former town hall, and a memorial to a 1906 assassination attempt on kIng Alfonso and his bride on their wedding day. They weren’t killed but twenty eight onlookers were. The king and queen lived on to a ripe old age.

    It was an excellent morning for us, filled with interesting things to see. And now, we were close to the Royal Palace and the wonders it held.
    Read more