• Day 1

    We made it to Berlin!

    June 15, 2022 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We had spent the last days before moving here to Berlin packing stuff, cleaning the house, finishing work, and preparing the house for the people who would sublet our apartment in Cambridge. At times it felt we would never been able to finish and the day of our departure would arrive with nothing ready. At times, it felt like this day would never arrive. But it did.

    The flight was a pain and it felt endless, but the city was bright and gorgeous when we arrived. Our first apartment is in the Western part of Kreuzberg, just north of Viktoriapark. We need to explore that park more. The neighborhood is so pretty. It's very lively, full of coffee shops, little stores and cafes, but also very green and covered with trees.

    We spent the first day exploring the area. It's fun to think that we'll live here for the next few weeks. I need to make a list of everything I want to do but it's too overwhelming to think about it right now.

    One nice detail, though: there seems to be tons of stationary stores around. I love those.
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  • Day 2

    Monkey Park

    February 27, 2022 in Gambia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    The Bijilo Forest Park, sometimes referred to simply as "Monkey Park," is a nice forest park, great for a short, easy hike. I read the park hosts a vibrant ecosystem with one-third of all the butterfly species recorded in the country, more than 130 bird species, and a variety of lizards.

    However, missing all of that is quite easy because of the monkeys!

    The green monkeys are the most common. Red colobus and patas monkeys live here too, but they're harder to spot. The green monkeys, however, are everywhere.

    They're quite used to humans. I don't like the idea of feeding wild animals, but tourists do it. In fact, the park sells peanuts, so it's not like they're preventing this practice in any way.

    They were so cute, though! Sometimes you could see some of them fighting or getting aggressive with each other, but for the most part, they were like little curious people.

    After the park, we went to have lunch at a place called Ali Baba. I had the same meal as the previous day, Yassa chicken, the caramelized onion sauce served with chicken. This feels like something I should try to cook myself...

    One of the trip plans was to visit a tailor and get some outfits made with the fabric we got at the market. Our first attempt was not very successful. We met with the tailor, but he just had photos of very elaborate dresses and nothing simple that we would actually wear, so we decided to go to a different one another day.

    We stopped at the camp to pick up our bathing suits and go to the Gambia River.
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  • Day 2

    Serrekunda Market

    February 27, 2022 in Gambia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    I slept well in the little cabin I shared with Inés. We had mosquito nets, and it was not too hot at all, despite what we feared. In fact, it was the opposite, and a couple of people in the group were cold at night. The bathroom didn't have much water, and it was cold, so I just took a pseudo-shower.

    We got up at 7.30 to have breakfast at 8, but we had to wait for a while for the bread to arrive. We usually had instant coffee, bread, jam, some omelet, and "Chocopain," a creamy chocolate spread with peanut, similar to Nutella but with a different nut. We would end up making endless jokes about it and how we would buy some to bring back home. Of course, it did not happen.

    After breakfast, we headed to the Serrekunda (or Serekunda) Market, the biggest in The Gambia. We started by going to a fabric store to get some materials to take to a tailor and make outfits. They were so beautiful and so affordable! Many of them are waxed, which gives them a weird effect, but the coating disappears after washing them.

    After that, already happy with our beautiful fabrics, we walked around. Somehow it didn't take me long to get lost. I didn't worry much. I just assumed my group would realize I was missing and would try to find me, but after some time walking in circles, a nice Gambian lady came to me and asked if I was "looking for the white people." I admitted I was, and she walked around with me, asking people along the way until we found them. And that was great because it actually took us some time. I have no idea how I managed to end so far from the rest of the group.

    I tried to take some pictures, but many people were unhappy about it. A few days later, I learned that many people believed we would sell the pics back in Europe. Also, as it usually happens when I travel, it took me a minute to remember how to use the camera and change the settings quickly. That's why some of the pics I took are absolutely unusable.

    The market was big and had everything: clothing, food, crafts... The weirdest items we found were probably the extremely sexually explicit nightgowns and aprons a woman was selling, with images of people having sex on them. We found it hilarious, and she told us, "they're European, uh?" while pointing at them.
    I didn't buy anything besides the fabric, although I later regretted not getting a shirt. I wouldn't say I like bargaining, though, and felt too lazy about it.

    This was our first experience with the flirtatious Gambian men who would try to get women to talk and message with them, especially Sara. The one who sold us the fabrics, in particular, kept following her around the market, which was somewhat funny, somewhat weird.
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  • Day 1

    Arrival in The Gambia

    February 26, 2022 in Gambia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    I had never thought I would go to The Gambia. It's not a traditional tourist destination. I wasn't even sure where it was on a map, and other African countries, such as Kenya or Tanzania, were already on my bucket list. But I saw that my acquaintance Inés led a group with the agency Huellas Nómadas, specializing in alternative travel with small groups, and went for it.

    We met at the airport in Barcelona to fly to Banjul. I would have never guessed it, but low-cost airline Vueling operates a direct flight between Barcelona and the Gambian capital. It made things very easy.

    The flight didn't feel long. I had the full raw of seats for myself, and I spent half of the time sleeping and half of it reading. The Banjul airport seemed tiny, and it was very crowded when we landed. It felt steamy, and I was wearing too much stuff because we avoided checking bags. It felt exciting, though! Most of the group had never been to Africa, and we were all looking forward to this trip.

    We met our guide, Sulay, and chatted with him while we waited for Inés and a couple of other people to get SIM cards for their phones. He introduced us to Lorenzo García, another Spanish guy and president of the organization Correcaminos Solidarios, who regularly travels to The Gambia and stayed in the same place as us.

    The group seemed really nice. Irma, Laura, and Samuel are three friends from the Canary Islands. They are entertaining and friendly and spent most of the flight chatting with some Gambian guys sitting near them on the plane. Eli and Andoni are a slightly older couple from Navarra who had traveled to Uganda on a previous trip and wanted to revisit Africa. Sara is a 26-year-old engineer who lived in China for a few months, loved it, and wanted to return. Cristina is a fun-loving nurse who has spent some time in Kenya and Tanzania and done some volunteering work. Ivette is a sweet midwife from Terrassa, near Barcelona. And Inés, who I knew from school, has spent years working in many different travel-related jobs, on cruises, organized trips, media visits, and so on.

    We still had 45 minutes to arrive at Amdalai Camp in Brikama. We were aware that The Gambia is fairly poor and infrastructures are very basic, so we were not surprised to learn that we wouldnt have hot water nor barely any pressure. The place, however, was actually fairly nice, with little double cabins. We decided to pick roommates at random, except Eli and Andoni, who stayed together, and Inés was my first one.

    But first, it was time for dinner! We had one of the local dishes, chicken with rice and a caramelized onion sauce called Yassa that originates from the Wolof people. It ended up being one of my favorites! We stayed up chatting for a bit but went to bed soon after. It was already past midnight, after all.
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  • Day 1

    Arrival in Maui

    December 26, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We arrived in Hawaii somewhat late and we headed directly to our B&B after picking up our car, a pickup truck from Turo. I'm not sure how things are normally, but, in the end of 2021, finding affordable accommodation and a rental car was almost impossible. That's how we ended up switching places every night and driving an unusual vehicle. The B&B, God's Peace of Maui, was simple but confortable. As one may expect from the name, it was full of religious references, though.Read more

  • Day 18

    Castelo de São Jorge

    November 30, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    For our final day in Lisbon, we finally made it to the São Jorge castle!

    We started the day with some pastries at Padaria do Barrio. After picking up my passport and getting a Covid test (which was really easy and free at the Martim Moniz square!), we finally went to visit the castle.

    The castle is one of those tourist attractions that are very interesting to visit. It was built in the mid-11th century to expand a small Visigoth fortress built in the fifth century. Since then, it has served as a royal palace, a military barracks, the National Archive, and a national monument and museum. In the 1940s, it underwent a major restoration. The views from there are amazing! It also hosts a camera obscura that I didn't particularly like, but people seem to do so.

    We had lunch at a place nearby, Paladarium, which was excellent. I had the dish of the day, some chicken with mushrooms over rice, and it was delicious and affordable.

    After lucnh we went to visit the Museu do Aljube Resistência e Liberdade (Resistance and Freedom museum).This museum covers the Portuguese dictatorship, the resistance, the anticolonial movements of liberation, the Carnation Revolution, and the dictatorship's overthrow. When we went, there was also a temporary exhibition, Women and Resistance, about women fighting for their rights and freedom from the 1930s until 25 April 1974.

    I wanted to learn more about Portuguese history, and this was a great place to do it. Unfortunately, I was still dealing with my stolen debit card, and I couldn't enjoy the visit as much as I would have liked. Dean had to leave early for a zoom meeting, and I went to get a couple of gifts before heading back to the hotel.

    We had dinner at Zazah. It wasn't my favorite place, but it was quite nice.
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  • Day 17

    Errands and walking

    November 29, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We spent a good part of the day running errands and switching hotels. We started the day by having breakfast at Charlie Bistro, a cute breakfast spot with some nice options. I had a 'tapioca' (a tapioca flour crepe, white and spongy) with berries and dulce de leche that was delicious.

    By the time I was done at the post office and the embassy, and we had moved hotels, it was already 3.30 PM. We had a very quick lunch at Tapisco Lisboa, which was good and would probably have been great if we had arrived earlier and in time to order some of the more elaborate dishes. Our new hotel, 9 Hotel Mercy, was nice and the location was excellent.

    From there, we walked around some of the areas where we had already been. We checked the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, and the Bertrand bookstore, in Chiado. This is the oldest operating bookstore in the world! It was founded in 1732 and it now operates a network of 52 shops across Portugal. We walked into the store of the Companhia do Chapitô, a cultural center, theater, and circus company that also hosts a bar/restaurant with a terrace. We had actually considered eating here, but this wasn't the right moment and we wanted to keep walking around.

    We ended having dinner in Chiado, in Cantinho do Avillez. We really enjoyed it! It's another restaurant by chef José Avillez, the same one behind the restaurant Páteo - Bairro do Avillez that we had visited on our second night in Lisbon, but this one is way more chill. Because of that, I feel we enjoyed it more. The place was very cute and the food was amazing, and they still had the same hazelnut dessert we had eaten and loved at Páteo.
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  • Day 16

    Lx Factory

    November 28, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    My dad and Cristina were leaving today and we decided to walk up to the São Jorge castle and walk around those little streets. They're so cute! We didn't make it inside the castle because it was getting late and we needed to have lunch before sending them to the airport, but I still enjoyed the surroundings and views. We ate at a place right next to it called Claras el Castelo. Restaurants next to tourist attractions can be terrible and overpriced, but this was actually pretty good.

    They took the subway to get back to the hotel, pick the suitcases, and head to the airport. Lisbon airport is in the city and it's very easy to reach by public transit, but taxis aren't expensive either.

    After they left we took a taxi to Lx Factory. This is an old industrial complex turned into an art, shopping, and food center. It started in 1846 as a fabric production plant (Compania de Fiação e Tecidos Lisbonenses). 50 years later, the company moved, and different businesses took over. By the late XX century, the space was abandoned and rundown and a private investor decided to create this space. It's huge now and pretty cool. On Sundays, it also hosts an outdoor market, but some of the indoor places are closed. In any case, it's well worth a visit to walk around and do some shopping. I got a quirky jacket and Dean got a very nice t-shirt.

    For dinner, we got to go to a Japanese restaurant, Miss Jappa, since my dad wasn't there anymore and he couldn't complain about not liking the food. Unfortunately, the service was quite bad and the food was not that great, although I still enjoyed the sushi and it was nice to have a break from the Portuguese cuisine.
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  • Day 12

    Óbidos

    November 24, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    This was the day our rental car was broken into, and my backpack got stolen. We will call it "the beginning of the nightmare."

    But before that, it was fun.

    We left the hotel and, after having breakfast, we headed to Óbidos. This is a quite touristy town, with the main streets packed with souvenir stores, but it is also beautiful. An impressive intact Moorish wall surrounds the historical center. You can go up the stairs and walk around it, but it is scary! There are no guardrails, and it can feel windy. We climbed up, and my dad and I were grabbing to the wall for our lives as people around us walked and looked at us, clearly thinking, "what is wrong with these two." I'm sure that someone who's not like me would enjoy walking all over the wall, though.

    I said that the town is very touristy and full of shops but hey, nothing wrong with that if you're into buying cute stuff. We got a couple of plates and an ornament for our Christmas exchange and tried a travesseiro, a flaky Portuguese pastry filled with egg and almond cream. It was so good!

    We had lunch at Real Casa Do Petisco, which I think ended up being a bit fancier (and with smaller plates) than what we had thought, and we headed to the car. We were planning to keep driving north, but... surprise. The car window was broken, and our backpacks were nowhere to be found. We were not the only ones. Other cars had been broken into, and we saw other travelers affected. Apparently, this is not a rare occurrance and I feel so dumb for leaving my bag on sight.

    I carried the most valuable stuff (documents, for example!), and we had to go to the police station to file a report, which was a pain because the policeman didn't speak Spanish, not English. This ruined our plans, and we had to go back to Lisbon to figure out how to replace my papers. We stayed at the Marquês de Pombal hotel and went to Cervejaria Ribadouro for dinner. Their specialty is seafood, and we were not that hungry, but it was very close to the hotel, and we were exhausted.
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  • Day 11

    Belém

    November 23, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We had planned to spend the day in Belém and tried to get up early to be there at a reasonable time. We realized that being four, taking a taxi would be more affordable (and faster!) than taking the train. We started the day by visiting the Jeronimos Monastery. So beautiful! I really enjoyed it, and we didn't even need to wait long to get in.

    After visiting the monastery, we went to the Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries). We hadn't even planned to go there, but once we approached we decided to get in. You have to pay, but you can get to the top of the building and inside there was a photography exhibition of the Portuguese colonies that I really enjoyed. The building itself looks massive, and it depicts an idealized view of explorers. I wouldn't say exactly that I like it, but it's certainly impressive.

    Then we walked to the Belém Tower, but we didn't get in. It's been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1983, along with the Jerónimos Monastery, but we had heard the inside is not that interesting, and I guess we were starting to be tired by then. The walk by the water was great, though. Seeing the fortification semi-surrounded by water was very cool.

    We had lunch at a place by the water, À Margem, which wasn't particularly special but was very convenient, and then went back to the monastery to visit the church that we hadn't seen before because the lines were too long. Of course, we couldn't leave without trying the famous Belém cakes from the Pastéis de Belém bakery, even if none of us was really that hungry... I was full, but they were delicious!

    Before leaving Belém, we checked out an Ai Weiwei exhibit, Rapture, at Cordoaria Nacional. This is an interesting exhibition center. It was a rope production factory until 1998 and is now a wide, spacious space for rotating exhibitions. We enjoyed the Ai Weiwei one. Dean and I had already seen some of this work in San Francisco, but it was still interesting to see it in a different space. Some of the pieces were new to us as well.

    We took an Uber back to the hotel and Cristina and stopped at a store, Portugal dos Meus Amores, to buy a planter she had seen a couple of days before. I also got a couple of souvenirs.

    For dinner, my dad took us to a place where they went the previous time they had visited the city, a hole-in-the-wall restaurant, Lisboa 33, that had excellent and affordable food. We ended the night at a bar next door, Duque da Rua, with live Portuguese music and a super fun vibe. Unfortunately, we arrived so late that we only enjoyed a few songs before the show was over! I would definitely come here again, though.
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