Morocco
Drâa-Tafilalet

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    • Day 21

      SUV (Sahara Ultra Vehicle)

      April 21 in Morocco ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

      Wir fahren durch Wüsten und Dünen! Heute machen wir eine Rundkurs Südlich von Merzouga. Gemeinsam mit Sophia, Marko und Milena. Zum Glück, basti hat sich auf der erst besten Düne eingegraben. Also raus winden! Danke! Später haben wir den Dreh raus und flitzen durch die Dünen und den Sand! Es hat unglaublich Spaß gemacht! Wegen so viel Aufregung gibts nen Zwischenpost!Read more

    • Day 10

      Ait Ben Haddou

      April 23 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Deze ochtend zijn we vertrokken uit Taroudant. Hopelijk geen vaarwel, maar wel tot ziens... We hebben een lange busreis voor de boeg door een dor en desolaat landschap. Door de droogte is er maar weinig begroeiing en blijven de kuddes met schapen en geiten weg.
      Net voor de middag komen we aan in Ait Ben Haddou. Hier bezoeken we de oude 11e-eeuwse kasbah die al decor heeft gestaan in heel wat films. Na een uitgebreide lunch zetten we onze reis verder door de bergen, nu richting Marrakesh.
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    • Day 24–25

      17. SP Tee im Schatten der Palme

      April 24 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

      Wir haben am Abend Besuch bekommen zum Tee. Eine fantastische Nacht gewesen :) am nächsten Tag fahren wir den Track nach Foum-Zguid. Mal sehen ob wir die 2 Tage tatsächlich brauchen werden :)
      Auf den Fotos ist zu sehen wie wir den Inhalt der Glasflasche bestimmen, das Abendessen vom Feuertopf (den wir am nächsten Tage weggeworfen haben), fc Bayern Ultras. Top top topRead more

    • Day 67–70

      Die Wüste (er)lebt …

      April 22 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Wüste - nichts als Wüste! Es war uns klar, dass dort nichts ist, aber wenn man das erste Mal in diesem endlosen Nichts ist, kann man es schlichtweg nicht begreifen.
      In einem 4x4-Toyota sind wir vom Wüstendorf M‘Hamid für eine 2-Tages-Tour aufgebrochen. Unser Fahrer namens Mohammed (herzlich, freundlich, umsichtig) musste noch kurz zum Tanken. Problem: in M‘Hamid gibt’s keine Tankstelle! Lösung: jede KfZ-Werkstatt (und das Dorf besteht gefühlt zu 50% aus Werkstätten) verkauft Benzin und Diesel aus Kanistern (Wasserkanistern) - Einfüllen mit Trichter, Bezahlung pi mal Daumen je Liter …
      Aufgetankt ging es dann weiter durch das Beton-Western-Dorf mit Häusern rechts und links der Straße bis diese Straße…

      … aufhörte! Einfach so! Das Ende der Welt und mit einem Mal waren wir auf einer Sandpiste. Oder zwischen vielen Sandpisten. Nicht das besonders viele Autos fuhren - aber es schien, dass jeder einfach irgendwo zwischen den Eukalyptus-, Akazien- und NoName-Sträuchern durch den feinen Sand fuhr und wohl irgendwie ans Ziel kam. Wir hatten 60km vor uns bis zu unserem Camp und ich war völlig geflashed von der Umgebung, dem ständigen Wechsel zwischen flacher Sand- und hügeliger Geröllwüste. Mohammed hatte sichtlich Spaß und wir auch. Beate musste an die spanische Ralley-Kolonne im Hafen von Algeciras denken. Alle Autos aufgemotzt, getunt und die Typen entsprechend ausgestattet. Unser Driver hingegen fuhr in Sandalen, phasenweise auch ohne diese, meist einhändig über die Dünen, durchs Geröll und machte permanent einen total vetrauenserweckenden Eindruck. Greta jubelte vor Glück bei jedem Drift über einen Hügel und sogar Beate konnte (dank 50mg Diphenhydramin) die Tour genießen. „Schluckt unseren Staub!“ war Gretas Spruch des Tages während dieser Ralley.
      Believe it or not - aber Mohammed hat mir sogar noch während der Fahrt einen Recharge-Code fürs Handy besorgt - schließlich hatte er ja noch eine Hand frei und das Wort „Funkloch“ scheint es im Arabischen nicht zu geben.
      Von unserem Campground war noch eine deutsch-französische Familie im zweiten 4x4-Toyota mit uns unterwegs und so hatte Greta mit Matz aus Bielefeld (gibt’s!!!) sogar noch einen Spielkameraden auf der Tour dabei.
      Die Kommunikation mit Mohammed war fantastisch. Wir fragten ihn irgendetwas (auf Englisch) und er antwortete irgendwas (auf Englisch) - leider meist ohne Zusammenhang. Aber wir verstanden uns dennoch irgendwie. Mohammed war wahnsinnig umsichtig und hatte ein gutes Auge. Er zeigte uns Brunnen mitten im Nichts (miN), Verkaufsstände für Stofftiere aus Kamelhaar miN und dann plötzlich Vollbremsung miN. Mohammed reißt die Tür auf und sprintet zu einem vermeintlichen Loch, in dem auch Beate gerade noch zwei Ohren hatte weghuschen sehen. Mohammed hat dann mal den Arm reingesteckt und weil dies erfolglos blieb, kurzerhand versucht den Bau aufzugraben. Aber der Fennek (kleiner Wüstenfuchs) war verschwunden.
      Weiter ging es zu einer Straußen-Farm. Diese tauchte einfach so auf und genauso tauchten zwei schrankgroße Vögel neben unseren Autos auf. Die zwei waren neugierig und natürlich klassisch konditioniert - Tourist = hat Essen dabei! Ohne Scheu liefen sie um uns und zwischen uns durch und Mohammed und Kollege konnten erfolgreich für die Kids (WWF-Mitglieder jetzt bitte überspringen) jeweils eine Straußen-Feder ergattern. In diesen Momenten bekam man eine Vorstellung in welchen km/h-Bereich diese Exemplare vordringen können und die Beschleunigung von Null auf 60-70 war beeindruckend.
      Nächster Stopp war dann an einer alleinstehenden Behausung, in der wir mit Tee und Datteln im Zelt empfangen wurden. Eine Frau zeigte uns die Kunst des Brotbackens in der Wüste. Auf einem rauchenden Hügel vor dem Zelt legte sie einfach einen flachen Teigfladen auf die heiße Asche und bedeckte das Brot komplett mit Asche. Nach gerade einmal 10 Minuten und einer Wendung war das Brot fertig und wurde mit einem Tuch sorgfältig von der Asche befreit und uns zum Kosten gegeben. Es war einfach lecker.
      Genauso wie das Mittagessen, das uns unsere Fahrer wenig später in einer nahegelegenen Oase zubereiteten. Wir verbrachten dort die heißen Mittagsstunden, bevor wir dann weiter zu unserem eigentlichen Dünen-Camp fuhren.
      Es war beeindruckend. Direkt hinter unserem Zelt begann die Erg Chegaga, die Sandwüste im Süd-Osten Marokkos nahe der algerischen Grenze. Wir konnten es kaum erwarten, nach dem obligatorischen Willkommens-Tee die hohen Dünen zu erklimmen. Es lässt sich nicht fassen, dort oben zu sitzen und diese endlose leere rostrote Weite zu sehen und zu spüren. Die letzten 15m auf der Düne ging es nur noch kriechend nach oben und aufgrund der Hitze pumpten wir wie die Maikäfer. Der Wind prasselte uns den feinen Sand ins Gesicht, in Mund, Nase, Ohren. Aber das war in diesem Moment egal. Der Gipfel in 300m Höhe fühlte sich an wie „the Top of the World“.
      Vor dem Abendessen im Freien genossen wir auf dem Rücken von Dromedaren die Wüstenstimmung bei Sonnenuntergang. „Es ist wie ein Traum“, sagte Greta immer wieder und war tiefenentspannt im Sattel von „Stubs“.
      Glücklich aber auch fertig wie „a Päckla Resi“ wollten wir dann nur noch in unser Wüstenbett. Sternenhimmel gab es leider nicht, denn wir hatten Vollmond und es war richtig hell.
      Eine ruhige Nacht hatten wir aber auch nicht, weil Greta wohl aufgrund der Hitze und der Aufregungen des Tages über Bauchschmerzen und Übelkeit klagte. Und so saßen wir bis zwei Uhr morgens auf einer Decke auf der kleinen Düne oberhalb unseres Zeltes, ließen uns vom Mond beleuchten und massierten den Bauch von Greta.
      Die Ralley zurück nach M’Hamid am nächsten Tag war dann für sie weniger lustig. Doch am Pool unseres Campgrounds ging es dann langsam aufwärts.
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    • Day 13

      Zagora bei 35° & Rippenbruch

      May 1 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Am Dienstag auf der Fahrt nach Zagora, ca. 120km davor, nach dem Pass Tizi'n Tazazert ist Michael in einer Kurve bergab bei eigentlich mäßiger Geschwindigkeit, von der Fahrbahn abgekommen und gestürzt und das Mottorad auf ihn drauf. Er konnte kaum aufstehen, war aber tapfer und ist noch 120 km (2Std) bis ins Krankenhaus nach Zagora gefahren. Er hatte 2- 3 Rippen gebrochen und starke Schmerzen, heute nach 2 Ruhetagen im Hotel und der Einnahme von Schmerzmitteln geht es ihm schon deutlich besser. So das wir planen morgen versuchsweise in einer kleinen Etappe von ca. 90 km weiter zu fahren. 🙏
      Temperatur heute 35 °
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    • Day 3

      Ziz Valley - Sur la route du Sahara

      May 3 in Morocco ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

      Nous venons de passer la nuit à l’hôtel « Ziz Oasis » qui comme son nom l’indique se trouve dans une vallée avec de l’eau et de la verdure.
      C’est un endroit absolument magique.
      À notre arrivée à l’hôtel, nous avons eu le droit à un thé et pleins de bonnes choses à manger, et le soir ils nous ont offert un délicieux repas avec salades couscous et dessert !
      Le lendemain, un déjeuner bien copieux 😍
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    • Day 4

      Merzouga - le désert

      May 4 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Après notre nuit à Ziz Oasis, nous avons repris la route en direction du désert.
      Nous nous sommes arrêtés dans une petite ville nommé Errachidia où nous sommes allés visiter le souk. Nous y avons rencontré un marocain qui nous a invité pour boire un thé.

      Nous nous sommes après cela rendus à Merzouga pour débuter notre excursion en dromadaires, de trois jours et deux nuits 🏜️
      Nous étions accompagnés d’un guide chamelier nommé Ibrahim, et de seulement deux autres français, Aline et Benjamin.

      Le contact pour l’excursion : Moustapha de l’hôtel Dar Duna.

      La suite est à venir… ⌚️
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    • Day 42

      Ksar Ait Ben Haddou & Tinghir

      May 2 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Today is the start of our 3 day trek across morocco. We had to get up at 630 to get up on time and find our meet-up location. It wasn't hard to get up because we slept on a brick of a mattress and the softest pillow ever made. I got up and had a shower with lots of time to spare and check the room for anything we may have forgotten. We made it to the pickup spot on time, but there were so many buses and people it was overwhelming. Buses started leaving for their tour before Pearse, and I even knew where we were supposed to be. We were worried our bus left without us because we just couldn't find our guide. Luckily, a man named Aziz pulled us out of the crowd and asked if we were Ethan and Pearse. We got on the "bus," which is just a work fan with seats in it. It's pretty small with no leg room at all. Of course, we got the very back with the least leg room as well. Crammed in this bus we left for our first stop. It was a look out of the Atlas mountain. It was the first really cool view we've had in Morocco so far, and it didn't disappoint. It's nothing like the mountains I'm used to back at home, but I think I liked it so much because the landscape surrounding us was so cool. It was dry and Rocky with this red rock gorge. It was really interesting. Our next stop was only about an hour away, where we stopped on Africa's highest road. It's about 2600 meters above sea level. I had no idea we were going to see this, so it was a nice surprise. After some more photos, we had to get a move on to today's main attraction, Ksar Ait Ben Haddou. This village was built in 800 AD. There are two main sides to the village, the old ksar and the new ksar. The old ksar has a ruined fortified lookout tower called a kasba. Unfortunately, an earthquake destroyed the kasba only a few years ago. All that remains from it is rubble and the bottom portion of it. What makes a ksar a ksar are the houses. They're made of clay and mud, meaning a rainy week will start melting the buildings away. I couldn't imagine seeing rain in the forecast and thinking, "Ah shit I'm gonna have to remold my house." Right before we got off the bus, Aziz told us to apply sunscreen because the sun was really strong here. I looked at my weather app, and it only said it was 20 degrees. I grabbed the sunscreen but decided I wouldn't need it because I'm really good at ignoring people's advice. Well, after standing outside the van for two minutes, I conceded and put it on. I felt like my neck was turning red in the two minutes I was outside for. We started by having lunch on the new ksar I had tagine for lunch. I had it for dinner last night, so I knew it was gonna be good. I think last night's was better, but it was still really good. We walked across the bridge that connected both sides above what's supposed to be a river, but it was completely dried up. I guess lucky for their homes, they haven't had any rain in a long time. When we got to the other side, we were able to look down at the bottom of the ksar and could see where the movie Gladiator was shot. Everyone knows Gladiator is a badass movie, so it was really cool to see where the arena used to be. My favorite show of all time, GOT, was also shot here in season three. This world heritage site has been the filming location for tons of different movies and shows. Those two are just my favorite. We kept climbing the stairs of the ksar when we came across an old man sitting down with a recorder playing some music. He called me over to sit next to him. When I was on my way over, he pulled a snake out of a burlap sack and put it around my neck. I was not expecting that at all. He started playing the recorder, and this snake that was probably almost dead just laid in my hands. It was a really weird experience. Pearse took some pictures and a quick video for me, so when I got up, I told him to sit down and I'd do the same for him. We were both pretty excited by it and not paying attention to the rest of the group. As the old man was about to pass a chameleon to Pearse, he froze with a concerned look on his face and put both the snake and the chameleon back in the bag. Confused, I ended the video and turned around where we saw a member of our group having a seizure. We later found out she has epilepsy. She's okay it was just a little concerning to see. She just sat down in the shade for a while while we finished the tour. The next stop was my favorite stop. We stopped in this guys ksar where he was painting. The style of art he was doing is hundreds of years old and is only practiced here. He only has a few colors to work with, blue, which is indigo in water, yellow is saffron and water, and for black and 6 used tea and sugar in water. The really interesting part is that the only color that's visible after being painted is the blue. The brown and yellow disappear into the canvas really quickly. The way they make the colors come back and stay on the canvas is by lighting a gas stove and heating the canvas over top of the flame. It was really cool to see the painting just appear after being over the flame for a few seconds. It doesn't really make sense to me how that works. I ended up buying a small painting because I thought it was so cool. After the demonstration, we continued to the top of Ksar Ait Ben Haddou, where the kasba was located. We got to walk around and explore for a few minutes before making our way back down. It was so hot in the sun. In only a couple hours, it jumped to almost 30 degrees outside. For the rest of my time here, my sunscreen won't leave my pocket. I think this is one of the cooler world heritage sites I've been to. It was really interesting to me. Unfortunately, it was time to leave, so we got back in the van. This is where I realized I left my fuckin headphones at the hostel. I'm devastated. There's no way to contact the hostel, so I'm gonna go back there after the three day trip to see if they still have them. I don't have much hope. It was a long drive to the hotel we stayed at, but it was worth it. We stayed at a really nice hotel with comfy beds and even a pool. We had one roommate named Billy who's really cool and easy to get along with. We had dinner where we played uno for a bit and chilled out. We sat by the pool for about an hour before hitting the hay. Tomorrow is a huge day!Read more

    • Day 43

      Tinghir to Sahrah desert

      May 3 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

      Today was a surreal experience. We left our hotel at 8 am. Our first stop was an oasis and a gorge. It's pretty much the only green I've seen in Morocco so far, so it was really cool. There was a river that ran through here and something like 30 villages share and help each other with farming in this one oasis. They dig irrigation ditches for the water to flow to their crops. When they have enough water, they just block off the stream they made with dirt and rocks. We walked along the banks of the oasis in the shade, which was much needed. It was only 10, but it was already a heater. The tour guide took us into a so we could enter somebody's home and learn about how rugs are made. We learned that women will sit and work on these rugs for 4 hours a day for months at a time. They are hand woven with crazy detail. My favorite rug took 6 months to make and full of symbolism about her life. It has her Berber tribes symbols on it as well as mountains, obviously meaning her tribe is from the mountains. I'm sure there's more symbolism I don't understand in the rugs, but those are the two I remember. While we were being taught about these rugs and watching a demonstration of how they were made, we were brought tea to enjoy. They call it Moroccon whiskey. It's really good with a bit of sugar in it. These people were so hospitable while we were there. It was really cool to see how welcoming they were. They laid out about 30 different rugs, all made of different materials. Sheep wool, camel hair, cactus silk, and more. Basically, whatever they had and could use, they had a rug for it. They kept flapping the rugs in this tiny room, and I felt like I was having allergies to something. My nose was leaking, and my eyes were so itchy. Up to this point, it was a really cool experience. They had the opportunity to try and sell us a rug just like everywhere we've been so far. It's their livelyhood. It started getting awkward at this point, though, because everyone on our guided tour is either young and backpacking with nowhere to put a rug, broke, or just not interested. I'm all 3. They made us watch as they started folding all the rugs up and told us to put one aside when we saw one we liked. It was 15 minutes of absolute silence. I felt bad because of the looks on their faces, but I just kept telling myself it's part of their bit. Make the tourists feel bad and they'll buy something. Even after all the rugs were folded up, the guy thanked us for coming into his home and said, "I keep smiling, no problem." Pearse and I ran out as fast as we could before the hard sell could start back up, plus I was actually dying from whatever was making me itchy. Some of the guys were inside for almost 10 more minutes because they got targeted. Other than the little bit of awkwardness, I thought it was a really cool experience. We were just in a berber families house, made of clay, learning about these insanely complex rugs. After everyone was out, the tour guide walked us through the village and back to the oasis. While still in the village, 2 little kids, maybe 8 years old, came running up to me, begging me for money. I said no, sorry, nicely. Like how I would talk to a kid anywhere. These kids were trained, though. They knew what they were doing. I had to talk to them like an adult and give them the silent treatment like I do 55 year old street vendors. It was a shitty feeling because they're children, but I know that's how they get you. It was still just a weird feeling. When we finally got back to the oasis, we got some awesome pictures with the surrounding gorge. Lucky for us, we got to walk through the gorge. The gorge is very famous for its rock climbing. For weeks, I've been telling Pearse that when I go home, I want to try a rock gym, and seeing these people climb here made me want to even more. How cool would it be to scale up a straight vertical wall? After spending a bit of time in the gorge, we all packed into our tiny bus to go for lunch before we hit the Sahara desert. My lunch was not bad it was roasted chicken, soupy rice, and vegetables. The rice was nasty, and I hate zucchini. I wanted the tagine with an egg, but I've had it 3 times since I been here already, so I wanted to change it up. I think it was a mistake. After a quick lunch stop, we drove a little longer to get to a store where we could buy our get-up. I swear I've never had more fun shopping in my life. When we came out of the store with the head dresses on and covered from the sun, I immediately knew next years Halloween costume. What could go wrong. Pearse and I looked like true locals. We were finally ready for the desert. We still had a ways to go, but I was so excited that the rest of the drive flew by. When I saw the first sand dune is when it began to not even feel real. We got out of the van and into the 32-degree mid day weather in our traditional berber outfit and onto a camel. I had to call mom and dad to just show them, which is crazy I had bars in the desert. We've done some cool shit on this trip, but it'll take a very long time for me to do something this cool again. I had to share it with them. We walked for an hour on the camels, which was more than enough for most of the fellas, I think. These harnesses were so uncomfortable to sit on I couldn't imagine doing any longer on them. We got to the tent where they gave us welcome tea in 35-degree weather. We got sorted into our tents and immediately went sand boarding. It was fun when you got going, but getting back up, the dune was terrible lol. Everyone did a couple of runs and gave up on that noise. Pearse and I went on a walk to explore the dunes where we made more of our classic videos of us acting like idiots. It was actually a lot of fun making them. I was doing flips in the sand. We were jumping off the dunes and doing summersaults down. To sum it up, just being children. We sat down to watch the sunset with a couple of people from the tour and then went for dinner. After dinner, there was a fire and a drum circle, which was cool, but a way cooler alternative was to lay in the pitch black on a sand dune watching the stars. Kinda creepy knowing there's weird fucking critters out there that could kill us lol. I wasn't worried it was just a thought. We just laid there and talked for a couple of hours listening to the drums in the distance. I don't know if there was supposed to be a meteor shower, but we saw 4 massive meteors. It's easily the biggest I've ever seen. They were flying right over us, bright orange from fire. They were so unreal. For me, today was the best day of the trip and the most fun I've had in recent memory. I'm so happy, dad told me to do this, and I'll remember this forever.Read more

    • Day 15

      Offroad Querspange Todra & Dades

      October 9, 2019 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Julia hat’s heute im Laufe der Nacht mit Durchfall und Magenkrämpfen erwischt. Während sie ihren „Marrakech-Express“ auskuriert, versuche ich mich an der Querspange zwischen Todra- und Dadesschlucht... Jeder riet uns davon ab, klar dass ich da neugierig wurde ... Wie einem Kind, dem man die Schokolade verbietet ... Klar, dass das Kind immer heißer auf Schokolade wird...

      Kurzum: Ich hab‘s geschafft... Zwar war es teilweise heftig und echt Arbeit mit der Dicken 1190 Adventure R, aber fahrbar...

      Die 7km durchs ausgetrocknete Flussbett mit großen Steinbrocken und weichem „Gleisschotter“ waren der krönende Abschluss dieser Offroad-Etappe... Bilder gibts kaum, ich hab eher Videos mit der GoPro gemacht...
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    Drâa-Tafilalet, Draa-Tafilalet

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