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40 something who loves travelling. Read more Stroud, United Kingdom
  • TravelerJapan
    Day 22

    Final reflections

    April 15 in England ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    So, our trip to Kapan is over and we're safely back home in Painswick following a very long journey via London and Manchester.

    During our trip we made good use of the bullet train (Shinkansen) with a top recorded speed of 186mph. We walked A LOT and covered 225 miles in the 18 days that we were in Japan itself!

    The country is fascinating, with ultra-polite people and good transport infrastructure. There are elements of technology that are cutting edge, which you might expect of Japan and the wifi in most places was extremely fast when uploading photos at the end of a day. However, alongside that technology there are also significant areas which don't seem to be so advanced. Many places still only accept cash and there is formality and bureaucracy that we don't get at home. Japan also felt a very safe place to be and was also relatively easy to navigate around.

    We saw lots of temples and shrines and despite some areas being pretty heavily bombed in the war, not just Hiroshima, there were plenty of examples of old preserved buildings to see.

    All in all we had a fantastic trip - I am sure there is plenty more to see should we decide to revisit!    Read more

  • TravelerJapan
    Day 20

    Back to Tokyo

    April 13 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We had a leisurely start with breakfast after a reasonable night's sleep (considering we were essentially sleeping on the floor!).

    Our train was scheduled at just before 10 so we left the hotel and walked the short distance downhill to the station. The train ride back to Nagano was just under an hour and when we got there we made our way to the bullet train platform to catch the train back to Tokyo. As usual, we arrived on time and as it was 12.30 we looked for somewhere to have food after leaving our luggage at a storage place.

    We looked for and found a sushi bar in the station complex and enjoyed ordering and trying out various dishes.

    From here we went back to Ueno park to see the cherry blossom which hasn't really started when we were in Tokyo before. In the just over two weeks that we had been away, the trees had fully blossomed and were already starting to turn green. Despite this, the park was still busy with people walking under the trees to see.

    From here we took the metro a couple of stops to see a massive electrical shop, Japanese style! It was like Currys on steroids with 8 floors crammed packed with just about every electronic gadget that you could think of... And dozens of signs having front the ceiling. We didn't try to see every floor though.

    It was, by now, mid afternoon and so we made our way back to Tokyo station, retrieved our luggage and then headed to our hotel for the night next door to the airport.

    We spent the rest of the day playing cards and sorting dinner photos before a final Japanese meal at a place situated in the terminal building.... More gyoza's and a disappointing Okonomiyaki. 🇯🇵    Read more

  • TravelerJapan
    1111
    Day 18

    Jigokudani snow monkey park and Yudanaka

    April 11 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We had an early start and were on the train just after 7.30. We had two slow local trains taking us down to Toyama where we caught the Shinkansen through to Nagano. From here we took one final train up the valley to Yudanaka. The final train had the driver sitting above the carriage so you got great views from the front of the train.

    We arrived on time at 12.30 and walked the short distance to our hotel. The accommodation here is in the style of a Ryokan where you have to remove your shoes when in the building and the room is covered in tatami mats on the floor and traditional screens instead of doors once inside the room.

    We were able to check in and once we had sorted ourselves out we were offered a lift up to the entrance to the snow monkey park. From here it was a 30 minute easy walk to the area where the monkeys are. A particular troop of Japanese macaques have been bathing here since the 60's. The story about why they started to visit seems to have a couple of explanations but, evidently, they come down from the hills in the morning, lounge around in the hot springs or around the water all day, then return to the hills to sleep. They seemed completely unperturbed by the presence of the visitors.

    After spending around 45 minutes watching them we walked back down to the entrance where we had some food, a bowl of ramen. Next we walked back down the hill to the Ryokan and I took a trip to the hotels onsen. This is a room with a large pool in it filled with hot springs water. Men and women have to use different rooms and the expectation is that you enter naked. Fortunately, when I went, I had the place to myself! I didn't stay long though as the water was very very hot and constantly being topped up with fresh hot water.

    After cooling down we walked into town and eventually found a place for tea. The town looked largely shut up but the place we found when we opened the door was empty. The owner was friendly and despite her lack of English and our lack of Japanese we were able to order food.

    After we had eaten, the owner insisted on switching on the karaoke machine and wouldn't allow us not to take part. For the second time today I was glad that we were the only ones there. We both had a few attempts with the machine scoring you on each song for a range of things (which we couldn't understand but since included pouch, tone and timing).

    After a while we made our excuses and walked back to the hotel.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan
    1
    Day 17

    Takayama - day 2

    April 10 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    After breakfast we caught a local bus to the Hida folk village, about 10 minutes away from Takayama. The village is very much in the style of St Fagans or Beamish with a range of buildings that have been transported from where they were originally built.

    The buildings are all typical of the region but differ subtly in construction and look depending on where they were originally. For example, buildings with a much stronger roof because of the amount of snow that it would need to bear in the winter.

    The weather was much better today and with the sun out we spent a pleasant couple of hours wandering around before getting the bus back in to town.

    After a quick refreshment stop we next walked through the town and spent some time walking along the Higashiyama trail along the hillside where there is a row of about 13 temples and shrines. This brought us to Shiroyama park, a wooded area in higher ground where the old Takayama castle used to be. We stopped here and had a snack and a beer in the sun.

    Back in to town for a look around the craft shops. Takayama is famous for is craft including woodworkers. At 4pm we had a tour of a local sake brewery and learnt how sake is made, along with trying a few samples of different sake.

    After the tour we headed to the craft beer bar that we had been to the previous day before deciding that an early dinner might be easier given the problems that we had the last night in finding a place.

    We found a local steak place and had a delicious set meal including appetisers, bread, soup and Hida steak (the local speciality beef).

    After this we walked back to the hotel for an evening of cards in the rooftop lounge.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan
    1
    Day 16

    Takayama

    April 9 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    After a leisurely start we walked from the hotel to the coach station next door to catch a bus to Takayama.

    We left Kanazawa at around 11am and the coach had one stop at Shirakawa, a small place known for it's 'A' houses! It was pouring with rain so I stayed on the bus while Ed took a pic!

    The bus continued on and we arrived on time at Takayama just before 1.30pm. the rain had stopped but it was definitely a lot colder. Takayama is in the Japanese Alps and the wind was also biting.

    We walked the short distance to our hotel and left our bags before walking back into the centre of town. Takayama is one of the smaller places that we have visited and doesn't have the high rise buildings of larger cities.

    We stopped at a small place for some food and had a skewer of the local Hida beef along with some Takoyaki and Maitake mushrooms in a soy sauce.

    After food we walked through the pretty twin streets and to an exhibition of the Yatai floats. There are about 23 in total dotted around the town and half are used at a spring festival with the other half being used in autumn, paraded through the streets.

    Next we a visit to Sakurayama Hachimangu Shrine, nestled in the hillside. There was also an exhibition of models of the local shrines, built in intricate detail.

    We spent some more time walking through the streets, many of which seemed closed, before stopping at a tiny bar where Ed had a hot sake and I had a sake caiprihiani cocktail!

    On the way back to the hotel we finally found a bustling street with some craft shops on. Back at the hotel we grabbed another layer before having our welcome drink and then walking back into town for some food. All of the restaurants are small and everywhere seemed full so it took us a while, and a stop at a craft beer place before we eventually found somewhere to eat and had chicken skewers (yakitori) song with fried chicken.

    We tried to find a couple of bars that were in the Right Guide, without success so walked back to the hotel for cards in the rooftop bar at the hotel. (It got pretty busy with visitors playing the piano, often badly!)    Read more

  • TravelerJapan
    1111
    Day 16

    Kanazawa

    April 9 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    We caught the evocatively titled Thunderbird train from Kyoto and changed at Tsuraga after an hour or so to a bullet train for the last 45 minutes to Kanazawa. Despite never having previously heard of it, the population is almost half a million! It is also known as the second Kyoto due to the fact that it is the only other place in Japan where they train geisha.

    Our hotel was tight next to the station and after leaving our bags we walked to the main park area of town and Kanazawa-jo,. The castle and surrounding park. Here we see probably the best cherry blossom yet. We wandered around the castle park and then stopped for some food at a local place. They served us jibuni, a local favourite consisting of meat and Japanese vegetables in a thick broth. To be honest it wasn't really to our tastes!

    Next we walked across the road to the Kenroku-en gardens, labelled one of the top three gardens in Japan. We spent an hour or so walking around and saw more cherry blossom along with trees propped up with wooden props to keep their shape!

    Our last stop was the Higashi Cheya area which has lots of old buildings. It was pretty but then it started to rain and so after unsuccessfully trying to catch a bus we got a taxi back to the hotel.

    We had a disappointing club sandwich at the hotel before heading out for some drinks and cards and then coming back to the hotel for bed.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan
    Day 14

    Nara

    April 7 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Today we caught the train to Nara, about 40 minutes from Kyoto. The weather was warm and we were going to see the historic city along with the deer that bow when you feed them.

    From the railway station we walked to Nara park where all of the main sights are located. Along the way we bought some deer biscuits too feed the deer with.

    First stop was the 5 story pagoda and then we continued our walk through the park. There were lots of deer and some being fed but most of them were clustered under trees resting and looking like they might already have had enough to eat.

    We continued our walk through park and then stopped for some refreshment.

    Next stop was Isui- En, some Japanese gardens before walking along to the Todai-ji temple complex which includes the largest wooden structure in the world.

    Inside the temple was the Largest bronze Buddha in the world.

    Ok exiting we walked back through the park and managed to find some interested deer who wanted to be fed. They did bow before taking the wafer biscuit and eating it.

    From here we stopped at a bar for a couple of beers and then caught the train back to Kyoto.

    For tea we walked about 15 minutes to a gyoza restaurant before heading back to the hotel bar for drinks and cards.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan
    1111111111
    Day 13

    Kyoto - day 2 - Philosopher's path

    April 6 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Our final visit of the day was to the Path of Philosophy. This meant a metro journey and then a long bus ride in rush hour traffic to get there.

    By the time we arrived it was gone 5pm and so the temples in the area were closed. Nevertheless, we spent a present half hour walking along the path and philosophising! 😂

    The path runs alongside a canal and at this time of year in particular I'd lined with cherry blossom so it was a really pretty walk, punctuated with a refreshment break two thirds of the way along!

    Having walked our feet off we decided to get a taxi back to the hotel where we freshened up before walking back to the Pontocho area for food. We went to a steak place this evening where we had Kobe and Wagyu beef. Sadly there were no chips!

    To end the evening we met up with two of the other people who had been on the bar tour in Osaka, Kayla and Connor. We had a few drinks with them in a bar before walking back to the hotel.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan
    2
    Day 13

    Kyoto - day 2 - Fushimi-Inari-Taisha

    April 6 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We caught the metro a few stops to Fushimi-Inari. This is a sacred mountain with literary hundreds and hundreds of O-torri gates leading up the mountain.

    It turns out that my orange shirt was a close match to the official colour of the gates which is vermilion and is the symbolic colour of the Shinto sect of Buddhism.

    The start was extremely busy with tourists but we persevered and by the time we reached the top, about an hour later, there were far fewer people getting in the way of photographs!😂

    There were some great views of Kyoto just before the top and then on the way back down we stopped at a viewing area where where were some stalls selling drinks, snacks and ice cream and had a well deserved cold beer! (This is despite a sign much lower down saying that the mountain is a sacred place and good and drink cannot be taken past there! I guess that because it was being sold there the stuff must have been approved! 😉)    Read more

  • TravelerJapan
    1211
    Day 13

    Kyoto - day 2 - Gion area

    April 6 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We started the day with a bus ride back to the Gion area. Come here. We walked up the hill to the Chion-in temple that we had seen in the dark last night. The temple complex is very big with a massive central main hall. The entrance gate is also very tall and well over two stories. After looking around the main square area we walked on and explored the temple gardens and the massive temple bell. It was cast in 1633 and is the largest temple bell in Japan and apparently takes 30 monks to chime it.

    Having visited the temple we continue on and so the tallest Buddha in Kyoto which sits on the hillside near that temple.

    We retraced our route that we had seen previous evening in the dark. Only this time the streets were far busier with tourists. The area was pretty with lots of little school shops and street food vendors.

    We continued on past the five story pagoda and back through the streets of Gion where again there were large crowds.

    As it was now after 12 we stopped for some gyoza's before heading to the metro.    Read more

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