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Kyōto

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    • Day 16

      Day 16

      March 16 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

      Hello everyone I’m super excited to share with you what we got up to today and it’s going to be a long one so I hope you’re comfortable! As you know we are currently in Kyoto and one of the very special experiences we had planned was for today at Sennyu-ji temple. This experience was advertised as a guided tour of the temple with a monk and an interpreter and then listening to the monks sutras (chant like prayers) during a ceremony but it was so so much more than this.

      I want to start off by saying that this tour only happens a few days a year as today was one of the three days in the year that Sennyu-ji temple opens up two of its buildings normally closed to the public one of which we wouldn’t have been able to go into without our tour but we will get to that in due course!

      We started the tour by finding our guide and speaking to him for a while, s very sweet man half American and half Japanese, he then explained to us that our tour was private and that we wouldn’t see many other people here. This is partly due to the fact the tour started at 8.45am so not many people are up and about by then, but also as this temple for whatever reason is like a hidden secret in Kyoto. He told us that barely any tourists come up here as it is slightly out of the way and it really is a hidden gem! This temple is the only temple in Japan that is solely dedicated to the emperors and imperial blood line as there is an imperial graveyard here, we weren’t allowed to even see this as it is such a sacred area that even the monks are only allowed in twice a year with the imperial family visiting once a year to pray and to pay respect to the temple. The entrance to the graveyard is gravel and they have grooved lines in the gravel- please see picture to aid my explanation! They do this by hand and the monk told us this takes 3 hours and these symbolise that no one goes into this area until the special times of the year, then these lines are redone after the imperial family visit.

      This temple actually burned down during the civil war and was rebuild so very few original pieces remain apart from the granite slabs outside the main hall, due to this the temple now has many symbols of water which is believed to protect it from any future fires. The rebuilding process is extremely impressive. There is not a single nail or bolt or screw in the whole temple, they constructed the roof through a process called joinery. Joinery involves the creation of interlocking joints that join together carefully selected pieces of wood that are cut to perfect size in order to create joints. There are 30 pillars in the temple taken from Elm trees and these are not secured in any way they are simply perfectly balanced on the base and the weight of the roof keeps them from moving. Our guide told us that this also helps the temples survive earthquakes that japan regularly experiences as the “temple moves with the earthquake”.

      All the temple buildings have gargoyles and dragons on them and these are thought to protect the temple from any evil spirits. This is not a zen sect temple this is a Shingon which believes in more “magic” such as mystical creatures than other Buddhism sects so there are many depictions of dragons and mythical creatures in the temple. We were being told all of this information as we were being walked through the temple buildings until we reached a new building which had a sloped floor upwards and different rooms leading off on the side. The monk and then our translator explained that depending on your rank in society it would dictate where you would sit with the lowest room being for maids and the highest for the emperor himself! This room was beautifully decorated with intricately painted sliding doors with phoenixes on which is the symbol of the emperor. In china, the symbol would be a dragon but in Japan it is a phoenix.

      We were then lead away from the main buildings and through winding corridors until the monk stopped and opened a door signalling for us to go in, jacob and I entered the candle lit room to sounds of a Buddhist sutra ceremony being performed by 6 monks all sat in light yellow robes. Chanting in a song like way the pitch gently rising and falling as they got further through the sutra. We sat down a little distance away and observed them. It was absolutely incredible, we were the only ones in there it was just the monks and us. They took no notice of us whatsoever and didn’t acknowledge us, they were so deep into their prayer that they did not even look up as we’d entered or left.

      Beautiful deep red and gold cloths hung from the ceiling and were draped across the shrine in front of them. It honestly didn’t feel real I felt as though I was dreaming, I definitely was watching with wide eyes and bated breath. This is not an experience that many people get to see ever in their lifetime as it is such an important part of the monks daily routine they do not like to be disturbed so they only allow this to happen a few days of the year. We observed them for about 15 minutes before we were beckoned to the door and we left them to finish their ceremony. This ceremony was especially for praying for the emperor and imperial bloodline and would last 40 minutes but the monk told us that the longest one they do at once is 2 hours worth of sutra! He said it took him a long time to learn the discipline for this.

      After this amazing experience we were then lead to another building which is only opened to the public three days a year, and yet there were probably only 5 other people in the building with us. This was a very special moment. As you walk into the building you are greeted by a Japanese painting - a nirvana that stretches from the floor to the ceiling and this is the largest one in the whole of japan. This is painted on Japanese paper in small squares and then combined together to make one huge painting that weighs around 150kg! It depicts Buddhas death. Buddha lying down facing north- which is the sign of death and due to this you will never find bed in Japan that points north! Around him are his disciples and followers weeping for him, animals from all different lands scatter the bottom of the painting and they are crying and curled up as they are so sad that Buddha has died. There are 8 trees in this painting, 4 of which are depicted as dead as they have “died of sadness” and the other 4 are still green which represent the hope for the future of Buddhism. It truly is an amazing piece of art with a clear vital importance to the religion and to the monks themselves and is our equivalent of the last supper or Jesus on the cross depictions we have in Christianity.

      We then headed to arguably the most special building which we wouldn’t have been allowed into without our tour guide today. This hall is dedicated to Buddha. As you walk in, in the middle there is a beautifully decorated shrine with a box set back into the wall with different gods guarding it on either side. In this box, we were told, are a part of Buddhas ashes. Brought back from China this temple has the canine and some of the ashes of Buddha. I’ll let that sink in for a moment and you can imagine how sacred this hall is and how special it was that we got to see it with no one else there. On the ceiling there are depictions of crying dragons and angels that date back to the edo period. The monk then began to clap and asked us to do the same whilst standing in a particular spot, as I clapped you can hear the vibrations of the clapping around the hall but also the frequency slightly changes and it rings like a chime or a bell in your ear. I really cannot explain it any other way than to say that it feels as though there was an incredible spiritual force in that room. Then, lead by the monk we prayed to Buddha and the monk said that Buddhism is much more open than other religions, that anyone from any religion can pray to Buddha which I think is really special and really sums up the peace and tranquility of the Buddhist beliefs.

      I honestly cannot stress enough how incredible this experience was, not only was it amazing to have the tour with a monk and for it to be private, but they only do this a few days a year and we got access to areas that very few people ever see and learnt so much and got a real insight into Buddhism.

      We finished up this tour by being taught how to “copy Buddhas image” which is where the monks trace images of the different gods whilst mindfully thinking about what this means to them and is regarded as another form of prayer, the monk then signed these for us and wrote out our names in Japanese too!

      We thanked them over and over before head in off to get some food as it was now 12.30 and we were starving! We had some breakfast/lunch and then went around some more temples today with open eyes about what the different symbols mean and the importance of different areas.

      It was truly the most special day today, unfortunately we weren’t allowed to take many photos at all due to the sacred areas we were in so I hope my description helps you picture it but it really was the most incredible experience.
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    • Day 15

      Day 14-15

      March 15 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      Day 14

      After a hearty breakfast we started to make our way to Kyoto- our mission for the day! We took a bus to Shizuoka station and then caught the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Kyoto. In truth, the bullet trains are incredibly over priced and it is definitely cheaper (but much much longer) to travel by bus but the bullet train never gets old, the views and constant building of speed makes it really fun and it makes the time pass very quickly so before we knew it we were arriving in Kyoto station.

      Once we arrived in Kyoto we checked into our hostel which is a roll out mat on the floor- going pretty traditional this time and clearly luxurious! We quickly dumped our bags and then headed out to Fushimi Inari Taisha shrine so we could squeeze in an activity on our first day here!

      Established in 711AD this is the iconic shrine that many of you will have heard of, it’s a corridor of orange gates or Toris that lead up mountain Inariyama or “holy mountain” and is regarded as one of kyotos and probably Japan’s most famous sights. This makes it incredibly over run with tourists. It was quite the shock coming from the middle of no where seeing no tourists to suddenly being absolutely swarmed by them!! We started at the main hall where we saw a traditional dance and got goshuin in our notebooks and then headed up through the sea of gates of which there is over 10,000 ! Luckily the further up the mountain you go the less people there are so they began to thin out as we gained altitude, but I was really shocked by just how busy it was. I have to say that I’m not surprised they have brought in a new tourist tax that you have to pay hotels and hostels as there is just so many of us!

      Day 15

      We started this morning in Arashiyama Bamboo Forest which is exaclty what it sounds like- a walkway through forest of bamboo. Again, there were so many people but luckily once you go to see some of the shrines a little further off the main path it quietens down quickly and you can enjoy the temples and views with a quieter outlook. The forest itself was very impressive and picturesque as it cast long shadows and creaked in the wind it was definitely worth the 45 minute bus there!

      We spent most of the rest of today going around temples collecting goshuin - we are up to about 11 now as not all temples seem to do them! I also wrote “my wishes and prayers” down on a small wooden slab called Ema, this is traditionally done and then hung up in the temples as it is believed that the gods can read them and make your prayers come true so we will have to wait and see if mine do! I really enjoyed this afternoon as this is a nice way to get away from the crowds of Kyoto as we visited the temples that aren’t “the best” ones and therefore they are completey empty, which I actually think makes them the “best ones” after all!

      For those who don’t know, the local authority as of next month are closing lots of the traditional and older areas of Kyoto to tourists including parts of Gion which is home of the geisha girls due to overcrowding and people not respecting the space. To be honest, after today I can’t say i blame them, I know we are here during busy season but it feels 10x more touristy than Tokyo did and sadly not everyone was respectful and were eating in the temples amongst other things. We had to work a little harder to get away from the crowds today than we have before but we found some really lovely spots so I can’t complain!
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    • Day 13

      Kinkaku-ji-Tempel (Goldener Tempel)

      March 26 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

      Zu Beginn des heutigen Tages gab es ein Frühstück in Bentoform, das wir nur auf dem Zimmer zu uns nehmen konnten. Und bevor wir mit unserem heutigen Tagesprogramm begannen, hatten wir schon mal den ersten Shop für Damastmesser aufgesucht.

      Nach knapp 1 Stunde abenteuerlicher Busfahrt sind wir beim Goldenen Tempel angekommen und dass wir uns nicht umgewöhnen müssen, hat es mal wieder in Strömen geregnet….anfangs…

      Zum Mittagessen waren wir in einem Sushi-Restaurant…und wir waren uns einig: es war lecker 🤷🏽‍♂️😁.

      Gestärkt ging es mit dem Zug zum Bambuswald…
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    • Day 13

      Red Kyoto

      February 1, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      Today we met up with Takara who was our guide/translator for the day. We went to the Nishiki Market and tried some yummy goodies. We then went to Fushimi Inari Shrine where we had our fortunes read (I'm unlucky this year) and tried to fine all 12 cats that live at the shrine. We then went to a Kiyomizu-dera Temple and yasaka Pagoda temples.
      We went to osaka for dinner TO MEET Shu. It was a lot further away than we thought. Dinner was deep fried everything. We ran for the train to get back to kyoto and had a good night at a local pub.
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    • Day 9

      Erster Hochzeitstag

      August 4, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

      Erster Hochzeitstag oder erster Geburtstag der Natalie Mix … vor einem Ja-hr haben wir uns das Ja-Wort gegeben und daher wollten wir heute etwas Besonderes unternehmen. Wir sind früh los, um zum Fushimi Inari Schrein zu fahren und dort durch zahllose Tore auf den Mt. Inari zu wandern. Anfangs waren wir noch umzingelt von Menschen und Lukas fühlte sich an den Massenmarsch an der chinesischen Mauer erinnert, doch je höher wie kamen desto weniger Menschen begleiteten uns. Der Weg war das Ziel, weil er atem(be)raubend schön war und die Aussicht von oben auf Kyoto hat sich auch durchaus gelohnt. Gegenüber der 2h aus dem Marco Polo Reiseführer haben wir mit knapp über einer Stunde nebenbei sicherlich eine neue Bestzeit gesetzt, trotz zahlreicher Selfie-Stops. Das war extrem schweißtreibend …

      Danach gab es zum Mittagessen Okonomiyaki (Natis bisher liebstes Gericht aus Wasser, Kohl, Mehl, Ei und Fischsud plus Toppings), bevor wir weiter durch Kyōto gestreunert sind und uns noch ein Kaffeekränzchen mit Kuchen gegönnt haben, bevor wir über den Nishiki-Markt ins Hotel zurück sind, um eine kurze Pause einzulegen.

      Zum frühen Abend sind wir erneut los und haben Running Sushi (für Nati zum ersten Mal) gegessen, wobei Lukas vermutlich den neuen Hausrekord aufgestellt hat, es war aber auch unfassbar gut. Als es dunkel war, ging es noch 100m nach oben auf den Kyōto Tower, um die Stadt leuchten zu sehen. Abschließend gab es auf einem coolen Food Court noch ein Absacker-Bierchen und der Hochzeitstag durfte schön ausklingen.

      Morgen gehen wir in den Norden und Nordwesten der Stadt.
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    • Day 46

      Kulturelles Kyoto

      October 24, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      🇨🇭
      Nach einer erholsamen Nacht in unserem doch eher kleinen Zimmer checkten wir am Morgen sogleich aus, liessen unser Gepäck aber noch im Hotel. Wir hatten nämlich noch einige kulturelle Pläne in Kyoto. Es ging wiederum zu Fuss zum Bahnhof, wo wir mit dem Zug nach Inari fuhren, um den bekannten Fushimi Inari-Taisha zu besichtigen. Dieser Schrein ist vor allem durch seine Wege mit Tausenden Torii (Eingangstore zu einem Schrein) bekannt. Der Hauptpfad führt dabei den Berg hinauf, wo wir es aber nicht ganz hinschafften, da wir etwa auf halber Strecke umkehrten. Zurück am Bahnhof von Kyoto planten wir unser weiteres Vorgehen (dank gratis WIFI). Ein Besuch des Kiyomizu-dera Tempels lag auch noch in der Zeit, weshalb wir uns entschlossen, dorthin zu fahren. Als wir umstiegen und kurze Zeit warten mussten, öffnete der Himmel wie aus dem Nichts seine Schleusen; ziemlich heftig, aber zum Glück nur kurz. Den anstehenden 20-minütigen Fussmarsch konnten wir dann im Trockenen unternehmen. Die Tempelanlage war natürlich voller Leute, beeindruckte uns aber dank seiner schönen Lage am Berghang im Wald. Auf dem Rückweg probierten wir noch kleine Reis-Dumplings, welche uns nur noch hungriger machten. Zurück am Bahnhof Kyoto gab es dann Ramen, um unseren Hunger zu stillen. Nach Abholung unseres Gepäcks bestiegen wir dann kurz vor dem Dunkelwerden den Shinkansen, welcher uns nach Atami brachte. Dazu später mehr…

      🇪🇸
      «Kioto cultural»

      Tras una noche de descanso en nuestra habitación, más bien pequeña, nos fuimos inmediatamente por la mañana, pero dejamos nuestro equipaje en el hotel. Todavía teníamos algunos planes culturales en Kioto. Caminamos de nuevo hasta la estación de tren, donde tomamos el tren a Inari para visitar el conocido Fushimi Inari-Taisha. Este santuario es mejor conocido por sus caminos con miles de torii (puertas de entrada a un santuario). El camino principal sube una montaña, pero no llegamos hasta allí, ya que dimos media vuelta en la mitad de camino. De vuelta en la estación de tren de Kioto, planeamos nuestros próximos pasos (gracias al WIFI gratuito). Una visita al Templo Kiyomizu-dera aún estaba a tiempo, por lo que decidimos ir allí. Cuando cambiamos de tren y tuvimos que esperar un rato, el cielo abrió sus compuertas de la nada; bastante fuerte, pero afortunadamente sólo por un tiempo. Luego pudimos hacer la caminata de 20 minutos en seco. El complejo del templo estaba, por supuesto, lleno de gente, pero nos impresionó gracias a su hermosa ubicación en la ladera de la montaña en el bosque. En el camino de regreso probamos unos pequeños dumplings de arroz, que solo nos dieron más hambre. De vuelta a la estación de Kioto, comimos ramen para saciar nuestra hambre. Tras recoger nuestro equipaje, subimos al Shinkansen poco antes del anochecer, que nos llevó a Atami. Más sobre eso más adelante...
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    • Day 146

      Der Süden Kyotos 伏見稲荷大社

      October 26, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

      Nach einer kurzen Fahrt mit der U-Bahn kamen wir im südlichen Teil Kyotos an. Nachdem wir ausgestiegen waren, mussten wir nur den Besucherströmen folgen um zum berühmten Fushimi Inari Taisha Schrein zu gelangen.

      Durch den hohen Eingangs Torii gelangten wir auf das Schreingelände. Von hier aus führt ein „Tunnel“ aus 14‘000 orangen Torii dicht an dicht hinauf zum Gipfel.

      Der Fushimi Schrein ist der Reis- und Sake-Gottheit Inari geweiht, die hier im Jahre 711 vom Himmel gestiegen sein soll.

      Zu Beginn liefen wir quasi im Gänsemarsch hinter all den anderen Besuchern her, doch je Höher wir kamen, desto weniger Menschen waren zu sehen.
      Wenn wir den faszinierenden Tunnel mal nach rechts oder links verliessen, gelangte man zu versteckten Gräbern, die von Steinfüchsen bewacht werden. Es ist eine mystische Stimmung mitten im Wald durch diese Tore zu wandern und es war gar nicht soo anstrengend den Aussichtspunkt zu erreichen. Von hier Oben hatten wir eine wunderbare Aussicht auf die Stadt.

      Den Rundweg um den Berg herum machten wir nicht, bereuten es aber später.. das wäre bestimmt auch lohnenswert gewesen. Insgesamt verbrachten wir 3 Stunden mit dem Besuch des Schreins und als wir dann hungrig wieder im Dorf ankamen, kauften wir uns einem der Streetfood Stände einen kleinen Snack. Für mich irgendwelche gebratenen Reisdumplings am Stiel mit einer undefinierbaren Sauce und Rocco gönnte sich ein Wagyu Spiesschen und ein Grüntee Softice. 🍡🍢

      Nach der Stärkung fuhren wir mit der U-Bahn in die Innenstadt Kyotos zurück. Hier durchstreiften wir den Nishiki Markt, der hunderte Essensstände, Restaurants und kleine Shops beheimatet. Es gab Tintenfische am Spiess, noch lebende Muscheln, Süsskram und noch vieles mehr.

      Langsam schmerzten unsere Füsse nach den langen Spaziergängen und so nahmen wir schliesslich noch den 40 minütigen Heimweg auf uns, der uns durch Wohngebiete, vorbei an wirklich miserablen Spielplätzen (Hat uns verwundert 🛝) und schönen historischen Gebäuden führte.
      Beim 7/11 Shop gegenüber von unserem Hotel kauften wir uns nochmals Getränke und Snacks, die es bei uns nicht gibt. Das Birnen Fanta war richtig lecker. 🍐

      Am Abend tranken wir ein IPA bei der Brauerei um die Ecke und assen einen kleinen Snack. Morgen geht es mit dem Zug weiter nach Nara. 🦌🍁🍂
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    • Day 4

      Kyoto Shrein Tour

      July 19, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

      Heute sind wir – nach wieder einer mühsamen Nacht, in der keiner von uns schlafen konnte – mit dem ultraschnell Zug Shinkansen nach Kyoto gefahren. Nachdem wir unser Hotel gefunden haben, düsten wir weiter in den Ramen-Laden, um Udon-Nudeln zu essen. Danach ging es zuerst weiter zum Goldenen Tempel Kinkakuji, dann zum Silbernen Tempel und weiter in die Altstadt. Mit leckerem Matchaeis intus liefen wir lange durch die Stadt, danach spät am Abend wieder zurück ins Hotel, erschöpft, aber glücklich.Read more

    • Day 8

      Jour 6 Kyoto

      May 18, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Après une bonne nuit (ouf) Dorine et moi nous séparons pour la journée ! Elle sera à Ohara pendant que je visite Kyoto
      J'ai envie d'aller loin, donc je vais louer un vélo pour enchaîner les km !

      Avec mon vélo électrique, je rejoins tranquillement la forêt de bambou de Arashiyama (10km). La ballade est plus qu’agréable, je quitte la ville pour une campagne vraiment belle, sous le soleil. Je m'arrête à un moment pour me reposer et je me régale d'un milkshake patate douce fraise et de chips de patate douce au miel au bord de la rivière Katsura.

      Arrivée dans la forêt de bambous, je suis embêtée car il y a énormément de monde dans les allées. J'y passe donc assez vite, tant bien que mal avec mon vélo.
      Je profite plutôt du chemin vers Kyoto (10km) , par le nord cette fois, toujours bucolique et à travers les petites ruelles.

      Je visite un magasin mais la chaleur et la fatigue l'emportent, je rentre à l'hôtel me reposer (il est 13h30).

      Je repars vers 15h30 pour le sud-est, voir les fameux tori rouges de Fushimi Inari Taisha (2,5km). La route est encore une fois vraiment cool, je tombe par hasard sur un petit commerce de milkshake à la banane tenu par un petit monsieur qui me fait signe: je ne peux pas résister. C'est trop bon !

      Arrivée au temple, c'est encore une fois une déception liée à la foule, des touristes et des écoles, c'est trop. Je mets mes écouteurs (la BO de Princesse Mononoke bien sûr) et je cherche les endroits déserts autour de l'attraction (j'arrive quand même à faire quelques jolies photos)

      J'ai gagné des coups de soleil uniquement sur les mains 🥵 sinon j'étais entièrement couverte. C'est con.

      Retour à l'hôtel après avoir rendu mon vélo (25km en tout !), et retrouvailles avec Dorine pour un verre et un okonomiyaki à la mode de Kyoto (avec des nouilles Udon) dans un petit restaurant local animé tenu par une patronne très gentille.

      Je vous mets deux vidéos de toute la journée !
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    • Day 7

      Jour 5 Koyasan-Kyoto

      May 17, 2023 in Japan

      Nuit terrible, je ne suis pas très fan de la literie dure, c'est le moins qu'on puisse dire... Je n'ai pas vraiment réussi à dormir. Et pour couronner le tout, la télé s'allume toute seule à 6h 😤
      Programme monastique:
      - 6h30: prière du matin (j'ai séché mais Dorine a répondu présente)
      - 7h: petit déjeuner, copieux et bon, sur le même modèle que la veille
      - 9h: check out, tout le monde dégage

      Nous retournons dans la zone des temples pour faire ce que nous n'avons pas eu le temps de finir hier. Et nous participons à une prière bouddhique.

      Bon. La literie déjà, je n'ai pas aimé. Mais là je suis carrément ressortie malade 😰 on ne s'attendait pas à cette ambiance: dans le noir, rempli d'encens, et avec un récit continu de psaumes pendant 40min... Je me suis sentie mal, nausée et malaise!
      Il m'a fallu une heure pour m'en remettre. C'est ça la transe ? En tout cas, malheureusement, je n'ai pas été touchée par la grâce de Bouddha 😅
      Encore une fois, Dorine trop forte a apprécié et m'a traînée derrière elle le temps que ça passe 😂

      Ensuite, nous récupérons nos sacs à l'auberge, buvons un thé glacé et attendons le bus. Nous discutons avec une jeune canadienne super sympa qui logeait avec nous. On monte dans le bus, et arrivées en haut de la montagne, catastrophe, elle se rend compte qu'elle a oublié son téléphone sur le banc de l'arrêt de bus... La pauvre.. Elle est repartie en trombe (PS: un bus toutes les heures...)

      Nous on étaient TROP CONTENTES de ne rien avoir oublié 🤭😂

      Ensuite, deux trains pour rejoindre Kyoto, très agréable trajet. Nous rejoignons notre hôtel à 15h30 et nous repartons visiter les environs. On ne voit pas grand chose car tous les sites ferment à 17h, on reviendra dans les jours qui arrivent.

      C'est l'heure de l'apero dans un bar très sympa, bière et hors d'œuvre (aubergine marinée et karaage)

      On va manger tôt au sushi bar, un plateau roulant de sushi délicieux (j'ai un peu abusé...)

      Fun fact: je suis tombée sur un kouign amann dans la supérette du coin.. NAN MAIS JE RÊVE
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Kyōto-shi, Kyoto-shi, Kyōto, 京都市

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