Espagne
Arzúa

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    • Jour 34

      Day 34: Ribadiso a O Pedrouzo

      2 juin 2022, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      I try to sneak out a little early today, to get some time on my own. This was not possible, and I and up leaving with Kevin. Today my ankle is very sore, and everything is still a little damp from yesterday. It seems likely I have developed the same affliction as Kevin which is tendinitis in my left foot.

      Each footstep on the uneven pebbles brings me one step closer to Santiago. Today, I don’t have a plan. The rain threatens in the horizon, and in my mind I feel I might continue on as far as 36km today - so that I can enjoy a leisurely start tomorrow. My body has other plans, and it becomes clear after traversing up and down hill after hill that I need to rethink.

      I ask Kevin for some alone time, he is happy to oblige. Although I walk as fast as I can to get a little distance, the two of us are hobbling at the same speed. We end up linking back up, and walking the remainder of the way together. We stop just before the rain in a town 19km from our starting point. The forecast doesn’t look good, and we decide to stay at the next town. We end up booking the same albergue, and Kevin mentions it would be his honour to walk in with me to Santiago in the morning.

      I feel conflicted, as most of me really wants to walk this final day alone. But, I know it would mean a great deal to Kevin not to be alone. Perhaps this is a Camino kindness I must do. I still haven’t decided. I’m now in a quiet hamlet about 22km from the cathedral in Santiago. Kevin would like to walk the way with me, I want to leave early to ensure I can get there when the pilgrims office opens at 10.

      I feel a bit distracted to be fully present in the experience, perhaps the overwhelm of the situation or the uncertainty about how I will feel tomorrow. Either way, tomorrow I arrive.

      I go to dinner (Kevin is there too!) and enjoy a peaceful setting with some wine. Kevin tells me his plan to create a Camino tattoo, with the initials of all of the important people he has met on the way. He has said he will put A for a girl called Anouk that he started with, and M for me, as we will walk in together. I am touched by this, and also by his honesty and vulnerability. We should all be a little more Kevin I feel.

      I make the decision to walk in with Kevin tomorrow, as perhaps it will be an important moment that will be nice to share. Who knows. I have an early night, in preparation for an early start tomorrow at 5. I will keep all posted, and I will have completed the way by the next time I write!
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 32

      1 month of Camino

      23 août 2022, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Today is the 'monthversary' of my start at Saint Jean Pied de Port, and I only have one more day of walking to get to Santiago.
      Everything went so well! I remember in the beginning, I had so many doubts about how things would go:
      How will my feet handle it?
      How will my legs handle it?
      How will I feel carrying that backpack for so long?
      How will my hands handle hand-washing the laundry every day?
      Do I have everything I need?
      Will I meet any nice people, or will I be too lonely or bored?
      Will I get sick of so much walking?
      What if I get covid?
      What if I get any other illness or injury?

      Because of all these questions, I couldn't be sure that I could complete the Camino in one go. And even if everything went well, I couldn't calculate how long it would take me.

      I read that, on average, most people do it in 35 days. I allowed up to 42, in case I needed or wanted to take days off, or in case I needed to do shorter days. But assuming I arrive tomorrow, it will be 33 days for me.

      This means I have up to 9 spare days. I also don't want this to end just yet. I have a plan 😉

      Today's walk was about 25k, a good part of it under the shade of trees.

      I walked most of the day with Jan, and we met other people on the way.
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 44

      Feliz Halloween desde Pregontono!

      31 octobre 2022, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Missing home a bit as I usually enjoy passing out candy to the Trick or Treaters in our neighborhood. There's always next year! We didn't see any ghosts, goblins or witches on our treck today, but we did see pumpkins, cows, ducks and Spanish Dagger plants. We were pleasantly surprised with very good weather as we only got sprinkled on a few times today, and I had my sunglasss on & off. Today's walk was a hilly woodland hike through small villages, along streams & farms. Two more days til we reach Santiago.En savoir plus

    • Jour 45

      Walking w a Friend to Amenal

      1 novembre 2022, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

      We met Paul from Ontario last night in our hostel. Since it is the end of the Camino season we were the only people there last night. We enjoyed dinner together last night & walked most of today together. The walk seems so much shorter when you're talking with a friend. I didn't take many pics today. It was a beautiful sunny day in the low 60's perfect for walking. Many woodland paths & small villages with chickens, sheep & horses.

      Hard to believe tomorrow is the last leg of our Camino adventure!
      En savoir plus

    • Boente to Salceda

      22 octobre 2022, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      21km of mostly beautiful rural paths and an hour of rain.

      We planned for an early start to enable us to avoid possible rain patches with strategic coffee breaks. Down to the bar for 7:00am breakfast and found the place in darkness. We returned to our room to pack up and be on our way and found breakfast in full swing at 7:30 as we went down to leave.

      So refuelled we walked in darkness with a headlamp for 40 minutes until first light. For 8km the Camino followed a country path below overhanging trees up and down across several small river valleys until our coffee and cake stop in Arzúa.

      Arzúa also gave us access to an ATM to replenish cash and a farmacia for blister dressings and Vitamin I (ibuprofen). It would have been nice to check out the weekly street market but rain was predicted and we moved on.

      Leaving Arzúa through unpaved country lanes we encountered more of the eucalyptus groves we had seen yesterday. There are 400k hectares of Aussie eucalyptus forests in Galicia. Saw some fine old Stringy Barks.

      We stopped for a lunch of empanadas at Casa Do Hórreo in Ferreira just 3.5km short of our destination for the day. It started to rain and continued quite heavily for an hour so we stayed under cover for dessert and coffee. With no letup in the rain we donned our ponchos and walked on in the now easing rain and continued onto our accommodation.

      Now after dinner we are drying wet gear for tomorrow’s predicted downpour.
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 9

      Day 5 - Arzua to Salceda

      2 octobre 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      A very short walk today and in much cooler conditions 😄. Again, the Way was beautiful, with many tree lined pathways. We had a lovely foggy morning; always a nice way to start. My post yesterday failed to mention a Camino Angel story that happened to me; I was taking the first alternate/complementary path, which was very shady and, upon coming back into the sun, realised that I had dropped my hat! I was all for retracting my steps - no matter how far - to retrieve it as that hat came with me through the Via Francigena, and I've been walking with it for years! My walking companion (one of the ACU group) thought I was crazy and she, an Angel herself was all ready to wait for me, but I was determined! Low and behold, I'd only gone about 300m and walking up the hill where my Camino Angels, a Spanish couple with my hat in hand! I was so grateful and enthusiastic with my "muchas gracias'". Also, today, I briefly talked to an 80 year old woman from Boston who is walking the Camino solo. She's staying in our accommodation tonight, and I'm hoping to speak to her some more tonight. Finally, I will mention how strange it is to see gum leaves under foot as you are walking in a European country and then see the gum trees alongside the path!En savoir plus

    • Jour 56

      Salceda (14km / 739.4km)

      7 juin 2023, Espagne ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

      Our first rainy day where we got to use all our rain gear which performed excellently. Good shopping Jane! Ironically we left early today to miss the heat. We started in the drizzle and walked up the hill for first breakfast, not wanting to give the rude bar owner any more of our patronage!
      The light rain continued most the day and then we got caught in a proper shower for 20 minutes. This made a mess of the muddy road but was actually quite enjoyable as a change.
      After the shower we stopped for a longer than usual lunch - a burger which went down well before continuing onto our lovely accommodation for the night.
      We are seeing less and less people we know as we get to the end which shows how much faster others are going. A lady passed us this morning who started on 10 May so she will do it in 30 days. 30 to 35 days seems quite common but they are exhausted at the end of the day and almost all carrying injuries. They are focusing on the physical aspect. There are a lot doing it in around 40 to 45 days and then people like us in 50! (We feel very Blessed to have the time).
      We had a very nice dinner at our Albergue - another Pilgrim menu of the day. We sat at a table with the 5 of us and then we invited an older American to join us too. We have bumped into him a few times. His wife died last year. He says he is happy to do anything on his own but he really doesn’t like eating on his own. He was so thankful for our invitation that he paid for dinner for everyone. I told him to invite himself to any pilgrim table - he would always be welcome, he said he knows. We are expecting another rainy day tomorrow for our last full day walk before arriving in Santiago on Friday.
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 41

      Ferreiros

      15 octobre 2022, Espagne ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

      Długi dzień bo prawie 30 km. Droga wiodła w zasadzie przez cały czas większymi lub mniejszymi pagórkami. Było pochmurnie, a ostatnie 5 km padał deszcz. Dość często pojawiały się wioseczki na szczęście co dawało możliwość odpoczynku w barze.
      W Leboreiro jest Iglesias de Santa Maria z malowidłami ściennymi z XV wieku dość dobrze zachowane oraz bardzo ładna rzeźba Matki Bożej. Legenda mówi, że została ona znaleziona koło fontanny z wodą, świeciła i otoczona była przyjemnym zapachem. Mieszkańcy wioski przenosili figurkę kilkakrotnie do pobliskiego kościoła, ale zawsze wracała na swoje miejsce przy fontannie. Dopiero jak zmieniono nazwę kościoła na Santa Maria to figurka Matki Bożej pozostała w kościele. Zaraz koło kościoła widoczny jest dość dobrze zachowany budynek, dawny szpital dla pielgrzymów.
      Potem wędrowaliśmy przez parę ciekawych mostów, które częściowo pamiętały czasy rzymskie do Melide znajdującego się w centrum geograficznym Galicji, stolicy dań z ośmiornicy, i dodatkowo bardzo urokliwe miasteczko. Dla tych co lubią ośmiornice to jest odjazd. Podają ja w wielu miejscach i dominuje gotowanie w wodzie ale można ją przyrządzać na różne inne sposoby, między innymi też na grillu. Doskonała rzecz.
      Ciekawe miejsce warte zapamiętania na przyszłość to Ribadiso da Baixo. Po przejściu kolejnego bardzo starego mostu po prawej stronie znajduje się dawny szpital, który został odrestaurowany i służy teraz jako Alberque, wyglądał bardzo imponująco,super miejsce na dobry nocleg. Z kolei następne miasto Arzua bardzo nudne i długie, jedyną jego zaletą są przepyszne sery.
      Cała okolica jeśli chodzi o jedzenie to słynie z owoców morza, głównie ośmiornic ale również właśnie z serów.
      Wierzyć się nie chce ze została tylko jedna noc przed Santiago.
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 44

      Albergue Camino Das Ocas

      31 octobre 2022, Espagne ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      We continued our 18.7k day, through the small city of Azrua, with quick stops at the supermarket for wine, bread, cheese and ham for our afternoon meal. And at the Pharmacia, to replenish the ibuprofen supplies! :-)

      We walked to our night's destination, an Albergue/Pension that is actually 1/2 mile off the Camino, away from any town. But it is in a good spot for our walking schedule, less than 20k to get here. Less than 20k to tomorrow's stop!

      Lots of hilly, up & down walking this afternoon. No more mountains, but the river valleys are frequent and steep.

      We could be walking through NH or Vermont cow country, instead of Galicia!

      Two more days!
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 36

      Arzúa to O Pedrouzo

      7 mai, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

      488 miles done. 12 miles left.

      Beautiful sunny day walking through shaded woods and meandering through the far suburbs of Santiago de Compostela. Very short day at only 12 miles, but it was fantastic after the past 12 days of longer walks since the last rest day.

      I was looking for lunch when I found, on Google, a Mexican restaurant in this little town!! Hallelujah! Those nachos I’ve been craving… found! And I rewarded myself with a proper margarita as well. So so good. Talked with the owner, a young guy from Mexico City, who decided to open this restaurant with his sister after believing together that pilgrims might be tired of the same bland pilgrims menus offered along the Camino and might seek out something different than the norm. They were right, at least in regard to my own cravings and business investment sentiment. Instead of a typical ink stamp at the restaurant, I received a legit wax stamp (los muertos inspired) sprinkled with glitter!

      I had a second margarita that kicked in as I walked to my albergue and soon after I checked in and showered, I collapsed in bed and took a 3-hour nap.

      I wandered around the town, enjoyed a kas limon and whiskey cocktail while people watching, then went to a restaurant for an empanada and cheesecake (with Galician wine of course).

      Early to bed because I’m gonna hit the road early in order to beat the trail traffic of other pilgrims. Santiago de Compostela tomorrow!!!
      En savoir plus

    Vous pouvez également connaitre ce lieu sous les noms suivants:

    Arzúa, Arzua

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