Appenzell Inner Rhodes

On the train to Luzern, we have a 2 hour ride giving us time to relax, snack, and enjoy the unfolding scenery. We made swift work of packing up, and distributing our various food items among us.

This stay in St Gallen, which I have dubbed "Fun with Appliances," has been unforgettable. We've crammed so many unique experiences into such a short time. Alongside those experiences, we've dealt with an electric kettle that didn't perform nearly as well on the stove top, a coffee machine that mangled 2 or 3 pods before I got it ( that one is user error), a clothes dryer that was exasperatingly slow, and a strangely random placement of very few electric outlets.

We met a cousin, another Micheal, who I first met online doing geneaological research. It is so rewarding to meet in person and Micheal shared with us so much information, and maybe, best of all, an enormous hand drawn spiral family tree. It is a truly remarkable work. A very generous and exceedingly pleasant young man who took time out from his busy life to meet us in person.

After this morning visit, we set out immediately to the charming towns of Appenzell and Altstatten. The rain is not enough to put us off our intended hike after browsing through the shops and taking multiple pictures of the very singular local architecture . Homes here have colorful accents and are decorated with drawings and other pretty embellishments.

Persistent clouds seem to be lightening, and brief moments of sunshine are increasing in one direction, although a threatening dark cloud is menacing in the other. We'll take those odds so head optimistically to our chosen trail, a route to Seealpsee lake. It's a hard climb up, and the weather changes abruptly. We're laughing as we take our selfie, and head back down quickly, stopping only for a roadside lunch that is so late in the day it actually becomes dinner.

Next morning starts with a workout climbing the tight spiral, dark staircase of the 15th century St Laurenzen Kirche. After ascending past the enormous quadruple bells, we emerge to a magnificent view over old St Gallen and the cathedral. Amusingly, the man below who quickly flipped the closed sign over to open when we enquired, had somehow raced up here ahead while we paid, so he greeted us at top and bottom.

Now over to the Abbey Library. After donning our required protective felt slippers, we are able to enter the Library. It is absolutely Library with a capital L, an extravagance of carved soaring bookcases rise from an inlaid wood floor to reach up to the elaborately detailed ceiling murals. The sensation of being amidst the thoughts and ideas centuries old, the fragrance of leather, old vellum, ancient surrounds and it's overwhelming on every sensory level. That such beauty can exist is profoundly moving.

Here resides the 16th century St Gallen globe, as it turns out a replica. It's a marvel of its time, the accuracy is incredible. Also here we can pay our respects to Shep-en-Isis, a mummified Egyptian priests daughter from about the 7th century BC.

Leaving the Library, we need a quick lunch break. We've had the idea to look for the bakery where our cousins parents met, but hunger overtakes us. Bratwurst and bread roll it is!

We then spend some time in the area called the Vaulted Cellar, the route to which involves a suspicious " maybe not in service" looking elevator. The lower level guides you through 1400 years of history. There's a colorful ornate manuscript from about 895, executed by a very artistic monk. And a stunningly lifelike mannekin, presumably the effigy of the monk Gallus himself. We spend an inordinate amount of time admiring the lifelike perfection of this model, photographing from many angles, naming him, and laughing at imaginary scenarios wherein this model might cause alarm to the unaware. Leaving the Cellar, we pass the security guard watching everywhere on her screen of cameras. No doubt she thought we were far too old for such hilarity. We remain impressed with the skills of the unknown creator.

The cantonal archives are located in the same complex. I'm always searching for records, and the couple I have in mind can't be located, but another very satisfying result is found. The death certificate of our great grandfather, with the actual signature of his wife. I feel like I want to ask more and more of the cheerfully helpful Patric but it seems arduous to locate each item, but time has slipped along, and our day is almost gone.

I've forgone the chance to see a 1200 year old plan for the building of a monastery, but it's a highlight due me nonetheless, to glimpse my family history.Read more