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Jo GillmanJo Gillman
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traveled in 8 countries Read more Otterbourne, United Kingdom
  • TravelerNorway Voyage
    Day 13

    Bergen to home

    March 31 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    After a good breakfast (buffet, so much choice!) we explored the little alleyways between the wooden buildings. A few shops were open but they are either full of tourist souvenirs tat - eg ugly trolls 🧌 - or real quality Norwegian knitwear which is very expensive.
    Our walk then took us along the harbour and up to the Bergenhus fortress. There are some enormous industrial looking ships which we assume serve the offshore rigs, and a very impressive tall ship.
    The fortress contains buildings dating as far back as the 1240s, as well as later constructions built as recently as World War II. Bergenhus is currently under the command of the Royal Norwegian Navy which has about 150 military personnel stationed there.
    The weather turned a little drizzly so we went back to the hotel before leaving for the airport.
    We caught the airport bus which conveniently stops outside our hotel.
    The check-in process is very slick as is typical of Norway and the flight left on time.
    We had a good view as we flew over the snowy mountains.
    It's been a wonderful trip, a great experience with memories that will stay with us forever.    Read more

  • TravelerNorway Voyage
    Day 12

    Bergen

    March 30 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Our last day on board and we're heading for Bergen.
    We woke up to a beautiful rainbow and little waterfalls trickling down the mountains as we pass close by.
    Our cases have to be packed and left near the lifts by 9am and we have until 10am to vacate our cabin. Arrival time at Bergen is 2.45pm.
    We've just passed by the Solund fjords, many islands, fjords and inlets. The wind is fierce on deck!
    There have been a few heavy showers, but the sun is out for us to enjoy the views that we couldn't see at night on the way north.
    Disembarking at Bergen was far less stressful than boarding!
    We're now checked in at the Radisson Blu Hotel for tonight. It's in Bryygen, the quaint district of colourful wooden buildings along the quayside. We took a walk to explore the area and visited the indoor Fish Market, a mix of counters selling an amazing assortment of fresh fish, seafood and cheeses, together with a few fish restaurants.
    We found a very rustic bar along the wharf to stop for drinks.    Read more

  • TravelerNorway Voyage
    Day 11

    Trondheim & Kristiansund

    March 29 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    The ship docked at Trondheim at 6.30 am in overcast weather. As it left at 9.30 we had a good view of Munkholmen, a small island just off the harbour. It is now a tourist destination in the summer but it has a chequered history.
    In 995 Munkholmen was used as an execution site, then in the early 12th century it became a Benedictine monastery. From 1658 a fort was constructed on the site and used as a prison. When Nazi Germany invaded Norway in 1940, Hitler established a submarine base at Trondheim. Munkholmen was fitted with anti-aircraft weapons, and the fort refitted to store ammunition.
    Weather today is overcast, about 8° and very calm. I've just completed 10 laps of the observation deck for some fresh air and exercise. It's so quiet and calm, the ship is almost silent as it sails along the coast. We've lost most of the snow now and the landscape is not so awe-inspiring but peaceful and beautiful none the less.
    We passed a gas processing plant that Syd is pretty sure he had a site visit there for a week while working on the project with Fluor 30 years ago.
    We docked at Kristiansund for an hour at 4.30 pm. We decided it wasn't worth getting off so we continued our game of Barbu (Karen won, I came last as usual!).
    Kristiansund is built on four main islands, with many smaller islands.
    Apparently, there are 320,249 islands and islets along the coast of Norway.    Read more

  • TravelerNorway Voyage
    Day 10

    Bronnoysund

    March 28 in Norway ⋅ 🌬 3 °C

    We crossed the Arctic Circle at 8.45 am this morning, passing close to the Arctic globe set on a rock.
    I received a Find Penguins reminder this morning that on this day in 2019 we were in Queens town, NZ South Island, the furthest south we have travelled. Now 5 years later we have travelled the farthest north.
    There is less snow on the mountains now as we continue south, leaving behind the more spectacular scenery.
    Karen and I enjoy attending the daily briefing from the Expedition team. It's always entertaining, especially if Hil is presenting, she has an adorable quirky sense of humour. She's was a guide at Trondheim and other locations for many years before joining Havila.
    The presentation starts with music from a local band, then info about the places we're visiting, local culture and other "this & that" topics. We always learn something!
    The ship docked at Bronnoysund this afternoon so we took the opportunity of a walk. However everything is closed as it's a national holiday - their Easter weekend starts with Maundy Thursday through to Easter Monday. Once again, another opportunity for shopping lost!
    The most exciting things to photograph were a sign on the harbour indicating that Bronnoysund is the midway point between the north and south of Norway, and a very pretty church.
    Beer, cocktails and cards followed back on board.
    After dinner, the staff organised a game of Easter Bingo, dressed up as chickens! Karen & I were up for it and we press-ganged Syd & Alan to join in. It was hilarious - we were too slow and/or couldn't understand the numbers that were given in three languages. Karen won the third round, her prize a Havila flag signed by the captain! We had a good laugh anyway.    Read more

  • TravelerNorway Voyage
    Day 9

    Lofoten Islands

    March 27 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 0 °C

    It's another clear sunny day for today's continuing journey south. There was a brief stop at Harstad at 8am where Syd and I took a stroll round the deck to enjoy the fresh air. Overlooking the dock are some very smart apartments that we could look straight into from the deck - I guess the lack of privacy is compensated by the beautiful view when there are no ships in!
    Next we approached Risoyhamn via a marked narrow channel that has been dredged to allow ships to enter the harbour. Flocks of sea birds scattered as the ship made its way. After a brief 15 min stop, we sailed under the Andoya bridge across the channel.
    We pass through the Lofoten archipelago to our next few stops, surrounded by beautiful views. It's noticeable that there are more trees hugging the side of the mountains and it is becoming warmer. Quite a few passengers are sitting outside, still wrapped in warm coats and hats but enjoying the sun.
    As we approached the next port, Sortland, for a bit of fun we were invited on deck to wave flags at the excursion bus as it passed over the bridge above us.
    We then docked at Stockmarknes for an hour, just enough for a brief walk.
    The temperature was a balmy 1°! There is Dypp Sauna on the quayside - a sauna followed a dip in the freezing water did not appeal!
    The Hurtigruten Coastal Express Museum is located here, where the coastal express route was started in 1893 to serve the local communities between Trondheim and Hammerfest. It later became the Bergen to Kirkenes, now served by both Hurtigruten and Havila.
    We're now passing through narrow straits of the Lofoten Islands, navigating carefully around small islands, with mountains rising on either side. It is stunningly beautiful. I spotted a house on one of the tiny islands - how remote is that!
    Impossible to capture the sheer beauty of this area in a few photos.
    When we dock at Svolvaer, Syd & Alan will be visiting the Lofotpils brewery .
    The Aurora was visible again last night but we didn't venture out on deck this time.    Read more

  • TravelerNorway Voyage
    Day 8

    Hammerfest and Oksfjord

    March 26 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ -6 °C

    Another gorgeous sunny day, still perishing cold! We're heading south now and have been at sea since leaving Kirkenes at 12.30 pm yesterday, with brief stops at 7 ports until reaching Hammerfest is the most northly town in the world and centre of Sami culture. We arrived at 11 am this morning, departing again at 12.45 so not much time to explore.
    Last night there was a Northern Lights call out, I bravely went up on deck while Syd wisely stayed in bed - I couldn't see anything and after a while retreated back to bed. I probably gave up too soon as others said it was a good show -typical!
    Just before reaching Hammerfest, we passed the island of Melkøya (Milk Island) as it was known for dairy farming. In about 2008 gas was discovered in the area, and the island was chosen for a power plant to liquify the gas which is exported all over Europe, particularly useful when Russia invaded Ukraine.
    The plant is currently closed for Easter and the workers are enjoying their break, skiing in the mountains.
    The town centre of Hammerfest is on the opposite side of the bay from where the ship docked so it's about 25 min walk to get there. At -7° outside, Syd & I decided to stay on board but Karen & Alan wrapped up warm, took their spikes and set off in search of a shop selling tonic to go with our smuggled on board gin! Along the mountains above the bay are many fences to protect the town from avalanches.
    In the summer, massive reindeer herds migrate from inland to the coast, many invading the town - popular with tourists but unwelcome by the local population.
    The views from the ship as it navigates between islands this afternoon are awesome.
    It still astounds us whenever we spot isolated houses on the coast as the mountains meet the sea.
    Another brief stop at Oskfjord. Temp -9. This is a small harbour with houses hugging the coast.
    We're sailing through the beautiful fiord, close to the surrounding mountains.
    Soon after dinner this evening, we were lucky enough to see the Northern Lights. You need to photograph them to see any colour, otherwise it's just changing cloud like shapes across the sky. Still exciting to witness though.    Read more

  • TravelerNorway Voyage
    Day 7

    Snow Hotel - more photos

    March 25 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ -5 °C

    More pics and a video of the huskies.

  • TravelerNorway Voyage
    Day 7

    Kirkenes and the Snow Hotel

    March 25 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ -12 °C

    As we approached Kirkenes this morning, the outside temp was -14°. The sea around us was covered in floating ice.
    The ship docked at 9am and we were off promptly on our much anticipated excursion to the Snow Hotel - it did not disappoint!
    A bright sunny day and thankfully it warmed up to a balmy -5° as we enjoyed the 20 min bus ride to the Snow Hotel. There are many lakes in Kirkenes, we passed four, all completely frozen over and covered in snow. Everywhere looked beautiful in the deep snow as it sparkled in the sunshine.
    On arrival, we were taken to meet the working husky dogs who pull the sledges for the husky rides. We didn't have a ride, but it looked great fun, especially for the huskies who were impatient to get away! We were encouraged to stroke the huskies who were not running - their thick coats are so soft and they seemed to enjoy the attention. However you don't mess with them while they're running and in work mode!
    The Snow Hotel is amazing, each bedroom a different theme with fantastic ice sculptures. It is kept at a temp of -4°, apart from the restaurant which is heated (presumably the loos & showers too). I really wouldn't want to spend a night there having felt how cold the beds are! Who wants a headboard made of ice in a room made of frozen snow!
    The dome shaped hotel itself was covered in fleece, normally done from April to preserve the ice, but a milder than usual March meant it had to be covered a month early.
    We were offered a warm drink and a reindeer sausage as a snack - I declined the sausage, Syd couldn't eat his, it was pretty awful apparently.
    We were also able to visit some reindeer, much smaller than you would imagine them to be with soft pale coloured fur.
    On the drive back, we were taken to a view point with an amazing panoramic view over Kirkenes harbour.
    Back in time for lunch on board. Lunch consists of a selection of small plates
    Each section of the trip has some dishes on the menu that are relevant to that region as well as the regular choices, these are Fiords, Polar, Artic and Islands.    Read more

  • TravelerNorway Voyage
    Day 6

    Honningsvad

    March 24 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ -6 °C

    A day at sea, heading towards the North Cape, with a stop at Honningsvad for 3hrs 30mins.
    The weather is proper Arctic today, the forecast says -5°, feels like -12°. The icy cold wind is so fierce that standing on the deck to take photos is challenging!
    Even in these extremes, there are some isolated houses dotted here and there along the coast - I can't imagine living in them!
    We berthed at Honningsvad for a few hours, a pretty little town and harbour.
    We wrapped up well and put on our shoe spikes to take an icy walk. It being Sunday, nothing was open apart from the Christmas shop. It was bitterly cold!
    This afternoon Karen & I attended an interesting lecture about the Sami, learning more about their history and their culture. Their customs, religion and languages are now recognised constitutionally throughout Scandinavia.
    So far it has been too cloudy at night for a chance to see the Northern Lights, but we're still hopeful. 🤞

    PS: We saw the Northern Lights this evening! Great excitement from everyone on board. Not a great show as the full moon gave off too much light. The photo is the best I could do with my phone camera in the freezing cold temperature on deck. Hopefully there will be another chance to see them.    Read more

  • TravelerNorway Voyage
    Day 5

    Tromsø

    March 23 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 1 °C

    Today, the ship continues to make brief calls at several ports on the way to our next main stop at Tromsø.
    Last night, I found that the benefit of being an insomniac meant I could gaze out from our cabin window in awe at the view as the ship made its silent way along North Norway's magnificent coast. The pale night sky created a beautiful light over the mountains, quite magical.
    Bright sunshine this morning, light blue sky, deep blue water and much more snow on the mountains.
    As soon as the ship docked at Tromsø this afternoon, the majority of passengers disembarked, some because they were leaving, the rest off to join the various excursions.
    We were part of a group of 15, plus our German guide, Marie, and travelled by minibus for about 10 mins to a park in the forest high above the town. It was amazing to see the piles of snow surrounding the houses and I wouldn't fancy driving on the icy roads!
    Once at the park,we were kitted out with snow shoes and walking poles and set off uphill for a trek through the forest. Tricky at first but we soon gained confidence that the shoes would cope with the deep snow and icy patches.
    The walk took about an hour with a few short stops to admire the views, or in my case to catch up with the rest of the group who were much younger and fitter!
    I've haven't been in such thick snow since the winter of 1962!
    Once relieved of our snowshoes, we were given toboggan mats for the daunting prospect of hurting downhill on them.
    Now this is not something I ever imagined doing at 70, but hey-ho let's give it a go! Alan & Karen bravely went first and survived with loud shrieks from Karen and their dignity almost intact. Our turn next, as we careered downhill in hysterics, spinning around with absolutely no control! Unfortunately it wasn't captured very well on camera, so we had to trudge back and have another go. It was insane but great fun!
    After gathering around a fire with a warming drink of hot Ribena (no alcohol as this is Norway) and a sweet snack, we all returned to the minibus for the drive back to the ship, weary but happy.
    A couple of pre-dinner g&t's, from our stash that we had smuggled on board, soon revived us. Dinner followed by another round of Barbu which Karen won convincingly this time.
    Another great day on our Norway adventure.    Read more

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