Sør-Trøndelag Fylke

It wasn't far to drive to Trondheim, Norway's 3rd largest conurbation and the first major city we'd visited in the country. We weren't sure of what to expect but were pleasantly surprised at the calm, ordered feel of the place as we drove in past modern buildings of wood board, red brick or pastel painted plaster facades.

Trondheim Cathedral School was closed for the summer and charged 100 NOK for all day use of its car park. £10 was more than we'd usually pay for parking (so is everything in Norway!), but it was extremely close to the centre, meaning we could make several trips and it was nice not to have to think about the ticking clock of an timed ticket. The day was hot so we positioned the van under the shade of a large Horse Chestnut tree, made sure Poppy had plenty of water and cracked open all the windows before strolling towards the portside fish market.

Trondheim has a big student population who we assume are off on their summer vacation. However, given that it is summer holiday season, it was very quiet the wide, clean streets had an unhurried feel about them. It seemed very fitting that we stumbled across the 'Walk of Peace' an art instillation set into the pavement to celebrate those around the world who are working towards peace.

Our first port of call (pardon the pun) was the harbourside fish market, a well presented indoor shop and café that had one long stainless steel counter stacked with ice, fish and seafood. In other markets we'd been used to several different sellers at competing stalls, but here the atmosphere was ordered and calm, possibly aided by the ubiquitous ticket system. There was plenty of space for people to sit at the white painted wooden benches and tables, mostly inside, but some on a terrace. Once again, we spotted a taxidermied animal, this time a seal, to augment the display. Prices were as usual high but we'd made the decision to splash out a little on food we could cook in the van and bought a large fillet of Rainbow Trout and 4 slices of Salt Cod for around £25.

After returning to have lunch in the van and check on Pop (she was fine), we wandered over the road to Nidaros Domkirke; Scandinavia's largest medieval building. The grey stone West wall of the Cathedral was bathed in bright sunlight and made for an impressive sight, its rows of carved statues stretching from side to side and top to bottom, seemingly standing guard over the entrance.

Skirting round the Cathedral grounds we reached the river where families and friends picniced, sunbathed and played on the neatly cut grass bank. Walking under the wooden arches of Gamle Bybro (the Old Town Bridge) we, we could see the attractive looking Bryggen; richly painted 18th and 19th century wooden board warehouses lining the river.

While driving out of the city, through numerous tunnels we reflected on our experience. A lot of the factors we often dislike about large urban areas- tight streets, the assault of advertisements and the jostle of people, just hadn't been issues in Trondheim and it had led to a very enjoyable time for us!

Home for the night was a gravel restplace a few hundred meters away from Flaugelva river. It being a warm day, Will took himself off for a cooling swim before cooking up a delicious meal of the Rainbow Trout we'd bought earlier.Read more