Norway
Hordaland Fylke

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  • Day8

    Naturschauspiel

    July 23 in Norway

    Als Trost, weil meine Pancakes auf dem Preikestolen leider "ins Wasser gefallen" waren, bekochte mich mein lieber Flo heute Morgen trotzdem mit fluffigen Pancakes! 😍 Lecker!!!

    Auf unserem Weg Richtung Bergen passierten wir heute den Josenfjord mit einer Fähre und ca. 30!!! Tunnel und machten einen Abstecher nach Avaldsnes. Außerdem kamen wir bei den Felszeichnungen von Solbakk (1000-2000 Jahre v.Chr.) vorbei und bei imposanten Wasserfällen, zu denen es tolle Wanderrouten gäbe, aber uns fehlt heute einfach die Kraft dazu!Read more

  • Day9

    Heute am Weg nach Bergen mussten wir durch 44!!! Tunnel - einige sogar mit Kreisverkehr! - das Zählen wurde langsam fad! 🤣
    Wir fuhren am Hardangerfjord entlang, welcher als Norwegens Obstgarten bekannt ist! Kilometerlang ging es vorbei an großen Obstplantagen, vor allem Äpfel und Kirschen, aber auch Marillen, Zwetschgen und vieles mehr! Da hier gerade Kirschenzeit ist und diese an zahlreichen Ständen zum Verkauf angeboten werden, kaufte ich einem wortkargen alten Mann eine Packung "Moreller" - Süßkirschen von seinen Bäumen hoch oben am Hang - so viel fand ich heraus - ab! Extrem süß und lecker, sie sind schon fast weg! 😊

    Bergen begrüßte uns mit seinem typischen Wetter: strömender Regen und tief hängende Wolken.
    Am Stadtrand parkten wir unser WOMO und fuhren mit der Straßenbahn ins Zentrum. Dort bummelten wir durch den alten Stadtteil Bryggen, probierten Walfleisch, Lachs und Krabbenbrötchen am Fischmarkt und holten uns den puren Zuckershock.

    Schöne Fotos gibt's beim nächsten Eintrag, da das Wetter besser werden soll! 😉
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  • Day10

    Sightseeing

    July 25 in Norway

    Heute morgen standen wir früh auf und starteten mit unserer Bergen-Card (die alle Eintritte beinhaltet) zeitig zum geplanten Sightseeing Tag: 🇳🇴

    Fantoft Stabkirche: 1150 erbaut, 1992 komplett abgebrannt (von Metallern???), 1997 neu und originalgetreu aufgebaut. Sehr besonders!

    Freilichtmuseum Gamble Bergen: eine nachgebaute Stadt aus dem 19. Jh., mit ca 50 Holzhäusern. Bei einer Vorführung spielten uns Schauspieler vor, was Dienstmädchen früher alles zu ertragen hatten.
    Viele der Häuser sind begehbar und teilweise unterhielten sich die Bewohner (Schauspieler) mit uns.

    Håkonshalle und Rosenkranzturm: Teile der Festung Bergen, welche noch aus dem Mittelalter erhalten sind.

    Bryggen: das Hanseviertel, das von Deutschen Kaufleuten im 12.Jh. aufgebaut wurde. Nach zahlreichen Bränden nur noch ein Viertel des ursprünglichen Bryggens erhalten, welches heute unter Denkmalschutz steht. Eigentlich total hübsch und besonders, aber das Flair des Viertels leidet sehr unter den vielen Touristen-Souvenirshops! 😕
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  • Day10

    Sightseeing - Fortsetzung

    July 25 in Norway

    Schifffahrtsmuseum - Entwicklung der Schifffahrt von der Wikingerzeit bis heute.⛵

    Zwischendurch gab es leckeres Eis für uns! Für Flo Baileyseis und für mich natürlich etwas Verrückterers, nämlich Braunkäseeis (wie Karamell-Cheesecake) und Basilikumeis (sehr erfrischend)!

    Nach dem Kulturprogramm probierten wir geräuchertes Walfleisch (erinnert an Wild/Rind) und ließen uns zum Abendessen Forellenwrap, Fiskekaker und Paella mit Bier am Fischmarkt schmecken! 😊🐟🦐🦀🐳

    Ein informativer und erlebnisreicher Tag geht zu Ende und wir sind etwas froh darüber, morgen aus der quirrligen Stadt mit Massentourismus wieder rausgekommen. Der Norden ruft! 😁
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  • Day409

    Skiftessjøen Lake

    August 9, 2017 in Norway

    Our travels took us to the head of Hardangerfjord and up through the increasingly tight valley, following the white river that fed the huge fjord, the river itself being fed by many glorious waterfalls. The terrain became more and more rugged and we passed boulders bigger than houses. Eventually the landscape turned too precipitous to forge a path over it, so our course continued through it, in a series of tunnels that looped over themselves, allowing us to spiral our way up the steep mountain.

    Emerging at the top, we pulled over in a car park signed 'Vøringsfossen' and walked to a viewpoint where iron railings had been bracketed directly on to a natural stone platform. Peering over we found ourselves looking down what must have been several hundred metres of a sheer sided canyon. Several powerful waterfalls plunged down into a dark blue pool where the force of their impact caused a dense cloud of spray. We don't believe we've ever seen anything that compares to the scale of this before!

    From our viewpoint that looked out accross the canyon, we could see another that looked out over the drop at the head of the valley. We drove a few kilometres and finding the correct turning, parked up at the end of the road. There were works going on and viewing platforms, walkways and benches had recently been installed. We didn't think it was possible but the views from here were even more stupendous. The position we were viewing from allowed us to see the waterfalls more fully and get up close to two out of the three major ones. Beyond the plunge pool the white river snaked away along the flat but narrow floor of this incredibly deep valley.

    Leaving awestruck, we found ourselves on a plateau of sorts. While the terrain couldn't be described as flat, there were no longer dark towering mountains. We were over 1000m above sea level now and bright snow patches remained in protected lees and hollows. The land became boggy and meadows of white Cotton Grass began to crop up here and there beside small lakes, where the soft land had allowed a river to swell and bow out. We stayed in a restplace by one of these lakes. Amazingly it was still not raining when we arrived and there was somebody out rowing one of the tubby little boats we've frequently seen hauled on shore. There was a bitter wind so even before the heavy rain began to pelt the van we weren't tempted to launch our canoe.

    It was only once the low clouds rose later that evening that we realised we had parked facing the Harangerjøkulen glacier. Its gleaming white surface of snow had merged into the white of the cloud. It continued to play hide and seek with us as the variable weather closed in and cleared repeatedly during our stay.
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  • Day402

    Eikelandsosen

    August 2, 2017 in Norway

    Eikelandsosen, a town at the head of a fjord wasn't far away from our stopover of the previous 2 nights. It had drinking water, toilet and waste water emptying, a bin and a supermarket, so we were well set up to stay for 3 days as part of our new slowed down pace.

    We parked facing out to sea, adjacent to a fast flowing river estuary along which the occasional motorboat passed, traveling to or from the small marina upriver. Wooden board homes sat on spacious plots, as the land rose gently behind us. To our left were low rise flats with glass balconies, set back from the seafront.

    Unfortunately, as we were settling in, we realised Will's wallet was missing. After searching all the obvious places we concluded he must have left it at the supermarket back where we'd stayed the previous night. It was a high tension 25km drive back, but we had a lot more hope that we'd be reunited with it, than we'd had when Vicky left her wallet behind at Oktoberfest. To our great relief, the cashier produced the wallet as soon as Will returned!

    After arriving at Eikelandosen for the second time, Will got talking to a local. During the conversation he spotted a group of Harbour Porpoises occasionally surfacing in the fjord, their calves in tow. We learned from the Norwegian that every community is obligated to provide facilities for motorhomes. He said that some don't, but seemed (justly) proud of what his town provided. We guess it is a similar regulation to that in the UK, obliging councils to provide a site for travellers.

    We were limited by the sometimes foul weather but the morning of the second day was dry and warm so we took a hike up the side of the river to an amazing flood fuelled waterfall that we were able to climb to the head of. The remnants of watermills stood derelict from here on up the river course. The sound of the crashing water reverberated off the valley sides and proved deafening at points. Quite understandably the ground was saturated and many stretches of the path were boggy or even submerged. The signed point of interest along the route turned out to be a dried up waterfall. We stood at the base of more than 10m of smooth hard vertical rock over which a river once tumbled. You could see the rounded curves of the paths it had carved out before the water course was diverted. After leaving the soggy riverside route, we turned back towards the van along a country lane with occasional picture-postcard homesteads spread out along the way. Summer had been working its magic for some time and we sustained ourselves with foraged bilberries, raspberries and even redcurrants.

    During our time at Eikelandsosen we explored the town where we found a small shopping mall and enjoyed looking round a 2nd hand store which contained stock similar to UK charity shops (much of it excellent quality). There was also a lot of handmade lace, crocheted and knitted items made by the group of retired women who managed it. The town had a mixed population with first and second generation immigrants going about their business alongside indigenous Norwegian residents.

    Will particularly enjoyed being able to nip out in the dry spells and cast his fishing line into the fjord. He didn't catch anything, but a local fishing boat spotted him and gave him a good sized cod! He cooked it up in batter for a scrumptious meal of fish and chips which we ate with the last bottle of British ale we'd brought from home. Yum!

    Another bonus of Will's frequent sorties to the seafront was that he got chatting to a fellow fisher and Brit, Stewart and his young son and daughter who lived in Spain. Will initially tried to convince them he caught the big cod himself, but came clean after they caught a few Mackerel of their own.
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  • Day6

    Butlins on water!

    September 8, 2017 in Norway

    To mark our departure from Bergen we joined the enthusiastic entertainment team around the outside pool/deck for the sail away party.
    Credit to them for persevering through driving rain and blowy conditions. We took along our own 'coffee' and after a cup of that, singing along to Rule Brittannia etc was a little easier, although the flag waving would have required at least one more cup of coffee for me!
    Allison chose a G&T 'coffee' whilst the barista had a cabernet sauvignon 'coffee to help him into the proceedings.
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  • Day399

    Bergen with Cath & Dorothy!

    July 30, 2017 in Norway

    We'd been looking forward to today because our friends Cath and her Mum Dorothy were coming to the city of Bergen on their Scandinavian cruise and we were meeting them for dinner!

    It was late on the Sunday morning by the time we arrived and suburban life was in full flow. Some were out walking with dogs, kids or both. Others were doing DIY, maintenance or having a good clear out.
    Modern, concrete good quality multistorey housing with terraces was mixed with large homely looking wooden board buildings.

    Nearing the city centre the van rattled slowly along cobbled streets, passing large groups of tourists and the cruise ships from whence they came, moored at the spacious marina. The sightseers soon thinned out and it wasn't long before the streets were quiet once again. It took a bit of time to find a suitable parking place but being Sunday, it meant that many restrictions were relaxed. We parked up in a marked bay on dead end road up the hill by the University, overlooked by grand stone townhouses in pastel colours, that looked as if they were now rented out as student accommodation.

    Walking down to the centre, we passed the tall steepled, red brick, St John's Church. The morning service had ended and inside only a few worshipers remained while the candles were blown out. There was a rich smell of wood and looking up, we found ourselves under a beautiful dark wooden ceiling.

    A wide pedestrian thoroughfare led us downhill alongside water that flowed along channels inset in the dark grey pavement and steps, before sliding smoothly over a flat slate of dark marble to form a waterfall.

    The dockside was where most people were clustered. Running along one side was an indoor fish market. This was more like a market than the one at Trondheim; it had several sellers, each with beautifully presented arrays of seafood and fish on ice, on their slanted silver metal counters. Gigantic crabs, prawns, salmon and oysters (at £3.50 each) were all available to take away, but you could pay extra and have them prepared into a meal for you to eat at one of the wooden slat picnic tables, sitting on chairs covered with plush cusions and sheepskins. Alternatively you could laze away the hours with a cocktail on one of the large, low grey sofas.

    A corridor of outdoor market stalls ran perpendicular to the angular head of the dock, each counter covered with a smart maroon awning. These sellers focused on street food, with cups of mixed berries, salami selections and freshly cooked meats and fish to take away. Prices displayed were in Norwegian Kroner and Euros, the cost of the latter being even higher than the former!

    Skirting round the dock we saw an eclectic range of boats, from huge modern cruise ships to little tour boats. We passed another electric car ferry charging its batteries and took time to peer at the expensive leisure cruisers and the sleek lines of classic sailing ships, one with beautifully varnished wood, another that looked brand new and spotless in smart navy colours.

    The two long sides of the dock were very different, the south side with its markets, appeared practical with wide streets and modern buildings. The north side contained the well preserved Bryggen area, with its wooden board warehouses painted in rich reds, blues, greens and deep yellows. The area within this old town sector had wooden floorboards and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The atmosphere that pervaded the traditional working area was different from that outside, whilst the internal spaces were all occupied by tourist shops, these sold handmade lace, rich brown moose leather products and traditional knitted jumpers and gloves to name but a few. Cheap tourist nik naks had not been allowed to distract from the 'ye olde worlde' feel.

    We were going to go up Fløyen mountain on the cable car but the £9 fee and our aching feet decided us against it and we instead wandered around a garden area with a fountain spilling over rocks upon which bronze statutes were perched. A large lake stood nearby, around which greedy gulls perched, their beady eyes studying those passers-by who had icecreams. Vicky's favorite place in Bergen had to be the ornate band stand around which bright flowers bloomed. People sat out on the neatly cut grass enjoying a bit of Sunday rest and relaxation.

    After returning to the van to sit with Poppy, we once again wandered down the hill to meet Cath and Dorothy at their hotel. We'd looked up a pub with good food and prices that were decent (for Norway).
    Pingvinen (The Penguin) was only half a kilometer away and we walked directly there through the heavy rain, catching up with Cath and Dorothy as we went.
    The pub didn't take bookings and it was lucky we arrived when we did because there were no free tables left. There were however, two friendly looking people sitting at a table for 6, so we asked whether we might join them and they happily agreed. They turned out to be British and really good company!

    There was all sorts on the menu, including reindeer, cod, moose and whale, but most dishes could be adapted for vegetarians. We both went for reindeer shank which was cooked perfectly and delicious with a hint of cinnamon. We'd decided this was the only meal we'd have out in Norway and so splashed out on beers. We chose the cheapest ale at £7 but it was Norwegian and tasted good. Cath and Dorothy are both great company and it really buoyed us up to be able to spend the evening with them, even if it did feel a bit bizarre just meeting just for dinner in a city so far away from the UK. We stretched out the time with another round of beer and walked back to the hotel, again sheltering under umbrellas. It would have been great to spend more time with them but our visit home in November doesn't seem too far away now and we are looking forward to spending time with many of our friends and family then!
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  • Day6

    Last port of call - Bergen

    September 8, 2017 in Norway

    Another day off the boat as we explored the city of Bergen. We even had an hour of sunshine!!

    Our first stop was the Floibanen funicular railway which chugged it's way to the summit of Mt. Floyen for panoramic views of Bergen below. Whilst there we walked to and around Lake Skomakerdiket before giving our knees a real pounding with a ~3km serpentine walk back down to the town centre.
    Bergen itself is an eclectic mix of old and new, demure and brash with the working port seemingly the focal point. We looked around a few shops housed in old warehouse buildings and we walked past a busy fish market ( I assumed it smelt!), visited some gardens, the University and Johannes Kitken church area before getting back on board for Allison to attend a talk on circulation, and for me to have a quick snooze before we both joined the sail away party which kicked-off as we set sail for Southampton.
    Tonight it's out with the DJ and dickie-bow again for the second black tie event of the cruise followed by a visit to the theatre to listen to the entertainment team cover some Queen songs.
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  • Day400

    Vågen harbour

    July 31, 2017 in Norway

    We had around 2 weeks left of our 2 months in Norway. Instead of visiting the South Coast, where many people would be holidaying we decided to cut the distance we needed to cover and take a slow journey towards the capital city of Oslo on Norway's eastern border. We'd covered a lot of miles since leaving Slovenia back in May and were looking forward to relaxing the pace and just 'being' in the country.

    Vågen, less than 50km away from Bergen was the perfect place to bed down for a few days. It was a natural harbour with a few moored boats on a private jetty. The restplace was out of the way and had an ample gravel car park, bins and recycling, nearby shops and a landscaped grassy area for Poppy. It also had a swing, a sandpit and a wooden board platform and seating area that Vicky had her eyes on for Pilates if the weather ever allowed it to dry sufficiently (it didn't).

    We spent a happy two days watching the rain and sun come and go and whisps of low cloud drift over the hills opposite. It was pleasing to see that a large proportion of the dozen or so leisure boats were taken out and made use of while we were there. Will spent a lot of time fishing between the downpours and managed to catch a pollack and a mackrel that he made in to fish pie. We were even treated to a rainbow that stretched over the wooded hills and reflected in the still surface of the sea. We left feeling relaxed and refreshed.
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You might also know this place by the following names:

Hordaland Fylke, Hordaland

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