to nowhere in particular

September 2023 - May 2024
backpacking my way through the world Read more
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  • Day 24–26

    fordongianus

    October 9, 2023 in Italy

    woke up, met chris at the café, had breakfast consisting of waffles and chocolate waffles and set up my hammock next to my tent. most of the day was spent relaxing there, other than that i just jumped into the river once and watched the sunset from a hill where i finally managed to get some internet connection and answer some texts.

    wanted to invite chris for a pizza, he refused but actually planned on going out to eat too, so we went together. pizza can taste twice as good as normally when you know it just costs you 4,50€.

    afterwards, we had a bath in the hot springs by the river. the night sky was super clear too, absolute 10/10 experience.
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  • Day 26–28

    sanea scoada

    October 11, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    woke up at the camp spot in mari ermi, ate the rest of my pasta and packed up early. went to brush my teeth and get more water when i noticed the foul taste of the water and, shortly after, the "no drinking water" sign above the sinks. that explains why the pasta tastes kinda weird. problem is that on top of my dead phone, i had already used about 2 litres of that water the day before and now had exactly 0 litres of drinkable water for the coming 33°C day. thank god for my water filter straw.

    started walking along a dirt track, i really didn't pay much attention when arriving the day before, there had been too much happening in the car. not ten minutes later, a familiar car with a familiar andrea inside approached me. he was on ft with one of his friends who started to translate for him. andrea told me that he could drive me to putzu idu, where i needed to go today, after he finished work at 1am.

    while i waited the time out at the beach, he charged my phone and powerbank inside the reception caravan. later, he even gave me his usb-c cord to replace my broken one, as well as a paper slit with his phone number and drove me to putzu idu. andrea also showed me some of the german music he liked. absolute legend, the coolest guy i have met so far.

    after saying goodbye, i headed towards the surf school. it was in a way less populated area than expected, it was more of a village than a town. not a single store was open, but it still looked pretty inviting and the people were friendly.

    after a bit of waiting infront of the surf club, i met one of the coaches. he gave me permission to stash my pack on the property while i went back to putzu idu to get some groceries. got a bag of biscuits, some bananas and finally some drinkable water.

    when i returned, the gates were closed and no one in sight, but i could see that my backpack was still there. after hours of waiting and calling different numbers, i managed to get a hold of the guy and get my stuff back. he gave me the number of another coach he said i could contact. went down the next road and set up camp right next to thr road. there was a lot of noise, both cars and animals, so the free earplugs from the hostel in barcelona finally found their purpose.

    woke up in the morning and powered on my phone. i had turned it off at 35% the evening before to save some power, now it was at 25% and dropped instantly to 5% as soon as i opened whatsapp. again, i had no power and no way of getting any. really starting to think about buying a new phone or getting the battery replaced. it should be quite strong in brand new condition, but ofc i had to buy refurbished.

    bought some bread and peanut butter and ate it at the beach, dry as hell but keeps the hunger away. also gave my phone and charger to the clerk of the store where i had bought the biscuits the day before. chilled for a bit, got my phone back and went for a little hike up to the surprisingly picturesque cliffside coast. the other surfing coach, marco, had responded saying we could meet up for a lesson in 3 days.

    went for a sunset swim again, posted on my insta and made some chili con carne afterwards.
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  • Day 26–27

    mari ermi

    October 11, 2023 in Italy

    (highlight)

    plan for today: somehow get stove fuel and somehow make it closer to the surf school.

    had waffle breakfast again, packed up my shit, replenished my water supplies and went to say goodbye to chris, who was sitting, as expected, at the café. we were joined by three other friends of his, a hippie couple and an older woman, all german. they were all super friendly and told some stories of their own hitchhiking experiences. one of the guys offered to give me some of the gas he had left in a spare tank of their renovated fire engine, that's problem one solved.

    i said goodbye to all of them, chris even got me a little present, a small bag of scented wood for my backpack. so cute. i started marching my overloaded ass west along a road. it was siesta and super hot, so barely any traffic. i got lucky, the third car i held my "ovest" sign out to picked me up. three swiss friends in their late twenties on vacation with a rental, they had great music taste. i got dropped of somewhere behind oristano.

    i started walking again, this time it was a little harder. even if one of the drivers saw me, there were hardly any opportunities to stop. had a short breather in a small abandoned tower, about half an hour later, i was picked up by a friendly italian man.

    he dropped me off and i realized that i was completely wrong there, but it was a somewhat touristic area so i decided to have a look at the attractions (tower kinda thing, pic 5). at this point, my phone and powerbank were both almost dead, the solar panel couldn't really help either.

    had a nap, then i realized that both my charging cables were fucked, so my 15% battery was all i had. nonetheless, i was good on water and food, so no big worries. walking back towards the (only) road, i couldn't believe my eyes when i saw the fire engine from the guys that had given me gas earlier. i was like an hour away from where we parted ways.

    again, i got picked up, this time by two very verbal italian grannies. they didn't speak the tiniest bit of english and neither did i understand them, which didn't stop them from talking to me the whole way. they took me to the next intersection and hand signaled me to get off here. back to walking.

    the last ride (four rides in a day is my new high score) was by far the best one yet. i got squished into a tiny fiat with three other teenagers. three seconds in, a large glass container filled to the brim with weed rolled against my feet. the guy next to me screamed something italian, snatched the thing and the entire car, including me, started laughing.

    their english was very limited, but andrea, the guy next to me, managed to ask me wether i smoked. i wasn't trying to be a pussy, so i replied "a little". it seemed to be the right answer, because this dude proceeded to unload the weed container into an empty box of fags and gave it to me.

    the three italians took me to a seaside camping site where they were apparently employed and let me stay there for half the price. absolute legends.

    my phone was completely dead at this point, so i went for a sunset swim in the sea before making pasta (half of which landed on my stove) and calling it a day.
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  • Day 29–32

    putzu idu

    October 14, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    packed up in the morning and moved to an abandoned construction site of an unfinished luxury resort i had spotted a day earlier on my way to the grocery store. set up the hammock there, called home and finally got around to downloading an e-book. the hound of baskerville it is. didn't do much except locate a mobile repair shop in greece that i could visit to get my phone battery replaced.

    two or three times, some tourist stumbled across my camp, apart from that nothing except a lot of beachside reading happened the next 2 days. finished the book less than 24h after i had started reading it, was pretty good. made about 600g of unsalted pasta with tuna which i lived off of for two days.

    finally had my long awaited surf lesson on monday. day started with my water bottle aquitting services and emptying one litre of water into my bum bag containing all money, electronics and documents i have with me. luckily, everything apart from my usb adapter survived the ordeal. had a full powerbank, so i decided to worry about it later.

    the lesson started - in italian fashion - a couple minutes late. me and a younger italian woman were the only ones there, so it was basically a private lesson. after half an hour of theory and dry training, we put on our wetsuits and got to work. the sky was very cloudy and there was a bit of rain, but the waves were all the better. i think i picked it up pretty quickly, which is no surprise considering marco told us that the conditions that day were basically perfect. after two hours of surfing, we went back to the school. rested for the remainder of the day and had my weekly call with lilly.

    i thought i would get to surf again the next day, but the weather decided differently. first things first, i was awoken by the sounds of a truck pulling up to the construction site and deloading an excavator along with a bunch of workers. after years of desertation, the construction of this place had seemlingly reramped on a random tuesday morning. a couple minutes later, i was spotted the first time by one of the guys while i was already packing up. he gestured me to do just that and leave the place as i had found it. an hour later i was homeless yet again.

    got some cornflakes in despite all and went to meet marco at the surf club at ten as we had agreed. the sea was completely unstirred and marco never showed up either way. took my waiting time as an opportunity to make some plans for the next days and weeks. noticed that all the ferry routes from italy to croatia i had considered don't even run in november, which means i will have to take the land way all the way up to serbia and down from there. same thing with the ferry to naples, the closest alternative i was able to book is one to palermo. actually played with the idea of taking a ferry from there to tunisia, but i wouldn't have any time for that if i wanted to be in naples for my birthday. also, my credit card isn't working at the moment, so probably not the wisest idea.

    so, the plan in short: ferry to palermo, bus to catania, trekking tour up mt etna, bus to naples, birthday, trekkig tour up mt vesuvius, then up to venice by train with stops in major cities where someone could host me on couchsurfing.

    confronted by all these opportunities and with all of my stuff packed up anyway, i was all of the sudden v e r y eager to get out on the road again. the only thing that was keeping me was the money i owed to the surf school. after 6 hours of waiting, finally marcos brother came by and offered to relay the money to him. i got on my way, hitchhiked two cars to oristano and even managed to catch the last train to cagliari.
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  • Day 32–36

    cagliari

    October 17, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    sun was already long down when i arrived in cagliari. i had no idea where to go, so i booked it to the closest mcdonalds and enjoyed the wifi there. couldn't use the outlets, tough, because of my broken adapter. made it my mission to find a new one the next day. after a bit of scowering through google maps satellite images, i found a seemingly abandoned overgrown area within walking distance and headed there. got lucky and found a very secluded and quiet spot to set up camp.

    woke up in time to watch the sunrise from my camp spot, which was elevated on a hill way above the nearby apartment blocks, which made for a fantastic view. but when i wanted to leave, i came to realize that i had been shut in and the gate that was open the night before was now closed with a warning sign to match. you could just step around the gate though, and i had seen people walking their dogs up there, so i decided to stick with the spot.

    bought a quickcharging set (life changing), a new book (orwell - animal farm) and one year premium for an offline language learning app so i could learn persian on the go. enjoyed some of the towns views and sat for half an hour listening to some french woman singing in the street. returned after a quick supermarket shop, made a cheap variant of egg & bacon sandwich dinner and went to sleep after a call with jakob.

    the next day was spent almost entirely inside the mcdonalds which was more my home than my tent at this point. calling home, i was informed that there had been several earthquakes around naples indicating an eruption of mt vesuvius. that would def be quite the experience, but i'm not going to allow myself to be scared off by some mountain with anger issues.

    i had noticed that every evening around 11pm, the wind carried loud music and engine sounds over while i was trying to sleep. it was jakob who brought up the idea that it could be a car meet. friday evening, i was actually prepared to go out and see for myself, but the streets stayed quiey that night.

    woke up at 3am and read through my mails again. had a short panic attack because one e-mail said that i needed a printed out version of my ticket, but then i remembered that i have a history of stuff like this suddenly going my way, so i didn't bother too much. if shit hit the fan, i could always ask any shopowner with a printer to do me the favour.

    exactly as i had hoped, the digital version worked just fine boarding the ferry the next day. the drug dog looked at me a bit sceptically as i walked past him with the weed in my backpack, but i can thank chris for gifting me his bag of scented wood for obscuring the smell.

    somehow managed to lose my sleeping mat in the x-ray, but apart from that, everything went smoothly. also met dongjin, a bikepacker from south korea, that i had already noticed twice as he was cycling around oristano while i was passing by him in different cars on my way to cagliari.

    lastly, some cultural takeaways from sardinia:
    - more old people than teenagers are vaping
    - people here seem to despise bicycles, have seen a grand total of about five in two weeks
    - public affection goes craaaaazy: at all times, and i'm not exaggerating, there were at least two couples in the mcdonalds laying on the benches cuddling or straight up having makeout sessions.
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  • Day 37–39

    palermo

    October 22, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    arrived via ferry and started walking through the dodgiest streets i had seen ye at 5 am. i wasn't sure when the hostel staff would allow me to come in, so i decided to wait at least until 8am. found a spot with free citi wifi and waited it out, trying not to fall asleep and have my shit stolen.

    i let myself in and after half an hour more of waiting, finally encountered the old italian lady that ran the place. she let me rest in the common area until check-in time. some hours of dozing later, i heard a bit of a commotion at the reception. another traveler had found a huge bed bug on her sheets. everybody wanted to leave and tried to get their money back from the italian lady and her son, neither of which spoke the tiniest bit of english.

    there was no other hostel available in town, so i grouped together with 3 other people from the hostel, brad from the uk, henry from the us and marilou from canada, to book an airbnb for two nights. like this, the bed bug refugees were born.

    we had a lot of fun over the next two days, consumed ungodly amounts of wine and had the most unhinged conversations.

    sadly, i didn't explore the city much. i was occupied making plans for the coming weeks. i had gotten an invitation to visit a friend from the us for a week free of charge. after some considerable doubt about why he would do this and about the necessity of booking transatlantic flights for fun at the beginning, i finally agreed.

    i was actually very close to staying one more day for a date with an fsj-volunteer from leipzig that i had met on tinder, but circumstances prevented it, so i boarded the bus to catania.
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  • Day 39–41

    catania

    October 24, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    i got off at the airport because i had seen a decathlon right next to it. while some elderly dutch couple kept an eye on my luggage, i tried walking there. turns out it's one of those highway centres, so no chance - still without camping mat, i booked a hostel.

    met an albanian, a norwegian and a russian there, we went out with them the next day. had a really interesting convo about family and kids, you could really notice that it's a cultural thing and that the eastern european guys had a very traditional, conservative stance, while the the girl from norway was way more progressive and sided with me.

    i also met a couple of other peculiar individuals at the hostel, one jamaican guy that just sat in the hostel yard downing a bottle of whiskey everyday and an older italian who i would describe as the most extroverted person i have ever seen.

    the next day, i had to get up at 7 am for the etna trek i had booked, but i was up even earlier because there was a guy ripping ass so loudly that everyone but him woke up from it (12 person dorm ny the way). i ate some chocolate spread toast and headed out to the meeting point.

    met the group, got into a sprinter van and reached the side of mount enta an hour later. out of the 20 person group, i was the only one that decided to go up without trekking poles, which made it harder than i thought. the volcanic debris is so fine in texture that it feels like walking on sand, or up a dune in this case.

    because of several miscommunications, i hadn't brought any lunch, so i was more exhausted than anticipated when we reached the turning point of the tour after about 3 hours of uphill hiking with short breaks filled with geology lessons from the guides. the going down part was way quicker and more fun for that matter because you could run and slide down the ash fields.

    came back super exhausted and hopped on a night bus to naples the same evening. it was operated by itabus and although i didn't sleep much, it was the most luxurious bus ride, way better than flixbus.

    also, i finally decided to buy some cheap cable headphones. was well overdue after going more than a month without.
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  • Day 42–44

    napoli

    October 27, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    got off the bus and went to the closest park, had toasty breakfast and was only interrupted by hungry birds, the rain and people trying to sell drugs. my first impression of the city was similar to the other italian ones i have been to: romantic names, but grimey, littered streets.

    in catania, i had had my first encounter with streetside prostitutes, here it was mainly heroin. people are shooting up the stuff in plain sight, the only place i had seen this before was hamburg.

    anyways, i had a bit of trouble finding the hostel i had booked a day before. the alternative would've been an abandoned steel mill i had scouted out, but i thought waking up in a bed for my birthday wouldn't be too much to ask for. after a mcmuffin / toilet break at the nearby mcdonalds, i finally managed to find my way to the hostel. dropped off my bag and started wandering around the city, as i do so often.

    came back at 3, checked in and had a 2-hour nap. met silas, a bavarian and the only other guy in the hostel. we went out to grab a kebab (for some reason it was prohibited to cook in the kitchen). in the store, we met a polish erasmus guy who promptly invited us to a beer pong competition the same night upon hearing that my birthday was coming up.

    together, we went for a quick shopping tour (bought a ring) and suddenly found ourselves in the liquor aisle trying to figure out what energy drink would fit a bottle of jäger best. in about an hour, the thing was empty and we arrived at the bar where all the erasmus people hung out. after another wine supply run to the 24h store, we were way too drunk to play beer pong, so we absolutely fucked it against some belgian guys.

    back at the hostel, we met two americans that we talked with until 4am which gave me plenty time to drink water and sober up for the next day.

    this was not only my nineteenth birthday, but also moving day. packed up, stashed my bag at the reception and went to the store to buy some birthday breakfast. walked to the shore, where i treated myself with mount vesuvius' views, a bottle of kiba, milk slices and some skittles along with my favourite albums.

    sooner than expected, it was 2 pm and time to get to the next hostel to meet lauriane and jayce (who had lost all his documents at the airport earlier). things came full circle when the receptionist announced that there would be a bar crawl that night, we were hooked.

    after the free pasta dinner, the group of 20 or so people assembled. it was all very chaotic, but after one and a half hours we were at the first location playing drinking games. a bottle of spritz later, i was at the second bar with lauriane eating "our" birthday cake. no idea whose it actually was, but i was delicious.

    then i tried snus with lovisa from sweden, because that's the only way you should get into the stuff. was dizzy for ten minutes, then went back to normal.

    we ended the night in a club and were driven home by a guy going at least three times the speed limit.

    checked out the next day, farewelled the canadians and went to the main station, where i realized i had screwed up the departure time, but i was still able to book a train (for three times the prize fml) to rome.
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  • Day 44–47

    roma

    October 29, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    bought a 48h public transit ticket at the central station, never even validated it. arrived at the hostel, real nice place after the last ones i've been to (except the backpackers paradise in naples ofc).

    explored rome for the next days and got prepared for my trip to the us: needed to fill out forms, make my gear fit the faa's standards and so on. also went to the vatican, but i don't know wheter i should actually count it as a country visited because i didn't spend a night there.

    the city was the cleanest out of all of what i've seen so far in italy and overall really nice. as i'm not the greatest fan of old rock piles, even rome couldn't manage to peak my interest after more than two days. wasn't too social here either, mostly kept to myself and relaxed a bit. also somehow managed to fumble two more tinder dates bc of time pressure. however, i did meet brandon from alaska. i really want to go there some day soon.

    actually, that brings me to the topic of all the 3 things i have thought about doing / the countries i want to visit the most (excluding my current mission). i have a lot of time to think, so this stuff is on my mind a lot, why don't i just make a list right here.

    - alaska to mexico down the west coast
    - peru, chile, argentina north to south
    - antarctica

    just noticed this list is very combinable, stuff for after uni??? ;)
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  • Day 47–48

    flight to the states

    November 1, 2023 in England ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    (surprisingly long one)

    the (probably) longest journey of this entire trip awaits. i have to leave the hostel in rome, get to the bus station, take the night bus to milan, find a shuttle to the airport and hop on a flight to london and then to boston.

    i've never flown alone before, so i basically spent the entire day waiting and going over my plans. in the morning, i had looked up restrictions on bringing camping stoves on a flight. apparently, it's super difficult and requires a lot of cleaning, paperwork and luck.

    i had four options:
    - bring the stove with me and hope it's cleaned thoroughly enough, risking losing it or having oversized luggage
    - put the stuff into a train station locker or hostel storage room
    - hide it somewhere near the airport or trainstation in milan, once again risking losing it
    - find someone living milan to store it

    i spent a couple of hours calling hostels, asking if they could store my stove for a week, but they, either refused or demanden copious amounts of money, as did all the otther locker facilities in milan.

    i then went on couchsurfing, asking around for anyone who would do me the favour. no response. i mentally prepared for having to hide my stuff. luckily, my parents then reminded me that some time ago, our family had accomodated an italian exchange student from milan for a year. so i hit her up, and she immediately arranged for her boyfriend to keep my equipment.

    i had several difficulties finding and getting to the night bus, but i barely managed in time. the ride wasn't exactly comfortable, but as good as it gets for less than 8€. i also met robert lee, a software engineer from china who had lived in the us and in germany for a year, respectively. he promptly invited me to come to china soon and offered to help me get a visitor visa. i secured his phone number and we stayed in touch, you never know ;)

    in the morning, i made breakfast (half a litre of the most disgusting monster energy flavour i have ever tasted). after 9 hours, we finally arrived in milan in the pouring rain. i had been sent a video by the aforementioned italian showing parts of milan completely flooded, i just had to hope it wouldn't affect me too much.

    in milan, i finally found the long awaited central decathlon, where i bought some warm socks and gloves for the zero degree new hampshire weather, as well as some new headphones (that don't sound like tin), because the cheap ones i had bought in naples were already broken.

    at now around 10, i headed to the apartment of the guy that was going to keep my stuff for me. his parents were there too, everybody was super friendly and i had to refuse many many invitations for food and drink. i actually left not only my stove, but also my sleeping bag, tent, and other stuff i wouldn't be needing.

    after getting two kebabs as provisions, i managed to find a shuttle to the airport. it was still raining buckets and at some points i was pretty sure we would either sink or slide off the road, but after an hour i arrived at the terminal with two and a half hours to go.

    boarding the plane was the easiest part and with my newly acquired netflix account time flew, just like my plane two hours later. after a short layover in heathrow, i was already on the 777 to boston. american airlines isn't the ryanair i'm more used to, and my middle class ass was shocked to find that i actually got free food and drinks.

    on this flight, i had the perhaps most interesting convo of this entire trip. and it wasn't with some 20 year old, but with the 78 year old american next to me. he was still super sharp for his age had a master in mathematics and used to be a computer engineer right from day one.

    after 7 hours, we touched down in boston. border security had me by the balls for the next hour, obviously very suspicious of me and my visit to a guy i had only known for a month. i hadn't slept this entire time and my voice almost gave out a couple of times because i hadn't had enough to drink, but eventually, they let me go.

    and so there i was, on the other side of the planet, finally having set foot on non-european soil for the first and hopefully not last time of my life.
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