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August - October 2016
A 61-day adventure by Michelle Read more
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  • Michelle CreasyEurope
    Day 19

    Farewell to the Achensee

    September 11, 2016 in Austria ⋅ 🌫 10 °C

    I had a fantastic time in Pertisau. The Hotel Post was a great hotel. I'm in Innsbruck for the night as my train is at 7:40 in the morning.

    Last night I did the night cruise on the lake. Unfotunately I couldn't understand the musicians but they were apparently very funny. I know they made a joke about the Dutch (a high percentage of tourists of Pertisu are Dutch apparently). The music was good though, kind of a cross between folk and country.

    This morning I had a wander around Pertisau before heading down to Jenbach and then caught the train to Innsbruck. I did some washing before heading back to the same hotel I stayed in last weekend. I obviously had a room upgrade last time. My room tonight is fine but a king single instead of a double bed, no bath, a smaller chair.

    After checking in I went up to the Tirol Panorama, a museum which contains a huge painting that you stand in the middle of a round room and the painting is a continous scene all around the walls. The scene is of the battle between the Baravians and Tirolese in 1809.

    I then went to the ski jump next to the panorama, simply because I was asked I wanted to go when I bought my museum ticket.
    It was really interesting and very high up. I'm not normally too bothered by heights but whatever the pavers at the very top are laid on, they wobble when you walk on them. Most disconcerting!

    A thunderstorm came in late this afternoon, lots of thunder and lightning.

    Dinner ended up being at a very nice Italian restaurant. It was raining heavily and the restaurant was nice and close to the hotel. I do miss the half board arrangement I had at the Hotel Post!
    I had an octopus salad followed by a mushroom and chanterelle pasta, yum!

    Photos:
    Traditional chalet
    Hot air balloon over Achensee
    Tirol Panorama
    Looking down the ski jump
    Looking up at the ski jump
    View of the Inn valley from the top of the ski jump    Read more

  • Michelle CreasyEurope
    Day 19

    Solo travel

    September 11, 2016 in Switzerland ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    (I realise after two and a half weeks I am not an expert. These are just my thoughts),

    If it hasn't been obvious, I am travelling solo.
    Many people were surprised when they learnt that not only was I going on my own but that I wasn't doing a tour.
    I like my "alone time" as my nephew used to call it and always have. I seem to need more than the average person (or I just never learnt how to live with other people - ask my sister 😀).
    I never had any hesitation in setting off solo.

    I am a people pleaser by nature and travelling solo means I am not spending a lot of mental energy making sure the other person is having a good time, often to the detriment of myself.

    The good parts:
    The obvious one is that I set the agenda and can change plans whebever I want or need to.
    The other day after the walk to Gaisalm I had planned to go on to Scholastika to the museum but as the walk took it out of me and the timing would be tight I gave it a miss. If I'd been with someone else I would have felt pressured (by me not them) to keep going.
    Want to sit by the lake for half and hour and just look at it? No worries.
    To me spending the extra money to travel first class on the trains has been worth it, not everyone would see it that way.

    No one is there to see my stuff ups, yesterday I got on the tram for the Tirol Panorama, went two stops and realised I was going the wrong way. I go the wrong way a lot when using google maps. I now get that the sun travels across the southern sky but I still have to stop and get my bearings - if that is south then north is this way.

    There is no one to watch me take forever to get myself settled on the train. I watch other people just sit down. I put my backpack up on the shelf, then take it down again, get something out, put it up again, pull something out of my handbag, put my handbag down, pick it up again to check the ticket.

    There is no one to roll their eyes when I spend half an hour playing pokemon at Zurich train station (I had wifi and was within two pokestops that had lures).

    It's a lot cheaper, for experiences anyway. I presume the accommodation is more expensive.
    Overspending on the dinner budget because you walk into a fancy restaurant and sit down before you look at the menu is cheaper when it is only €20 more than you planned instead of €40 or more.

    I can be as cautious as I need to be without driving someone else nuts. Want to be at the train station half and hour before the train leaves even though 5 minutes is more than plenty? Go for it.

    Lastly - I'll still be talking to all my friends and family when I get home.

    The not so good parts:
    There is no one to watch my stuff so I have to take it with me.
    Trying to squeeze myself, a suitcase and backpack into a toilet cubicle is sometimes easier said than done.
    The other day at the gasthaus I had to order at the counter and give my table number. While I was inside ordering someone else sat at the table. Fortunately I was able to sit at the table next door.

    The looks you get from restaurant wait staff when you eat on your own. Usually I pull out my phone but sometimes the place is too up market for that.
    Having no one to talk to over a meal at a restaurant.

    The language. I'd probably be more confident to try out french and german if I had someone with me. I've managed to comminicate fine, even on the very few occasions the person hasn't spoken english. I haven't spoken a lot of it though.
    I did absorb more german than I realised though. Today I found myself looking for "ausgang" (exit) signs at the Dijon train station rather than "sortie".
    I also want to say "danke" instead of merci.

    The vague concerns of what if something goes wrong. One of the reasons I check in so much on facebook is so people know where I am/last was.

    So far do I regret it? No way!

    Today:
    I left Innsbruck at 7:40 this morning for Zurich. There was another train at 9:40 but that only gave me 14 minutes to change trains. We were 25 minutes late into Zurich so I am glad I played it safe.
    What I saw of Zurich was lovely. It sits on a huge lake. Makes the Achensee look tiny. I saw quite a few Swiss flags flying from buildings, not something I saw in Munich or Innsbruck.

    After two hours at Zurich train station I boarded the train for Paris. It was quite empty until we got to Basle, then the carriage filled up. I got off at Dijon and a lot of people got on. The train was non stop from Paris to Dijon.

    My first impression of Dijon? It's an old city. Innsbruck has it's Old Town but that, as beautiful as it is, has had regular maintenaince to keep it looking bright and old. Dijon's buildings (what I've seen) are old (not run down, just showing their aga).
    I'm in a gorgeous hotel not far from the centre of Dijon. My travel agent may not have been able to book train tickets but she did book good hotels. So far they have all been within walking distance of the main train station (except London but that was by the tube and buses).

    Photos:
    Austrian village
    The farms had these little sheds, at leadt one per field in some areas
    It's hard to tell but the rivers are an icy green colour
    Swiss village
    Cathedral in Dijon
    Dijon street    Read more

  • Michelle CreasyEurope
    Day 21

    The Owl's Path

    September 13, 2016 in France ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Dijon is a beautiful city. I have worked out why it seems so old to me - there are no trees in the streets. They are in fenced off parks (and maybe courtyards, the walls facing the street aren't necessarily house walls but lead into courtyards that people drive into).

    There is no hop on hop off bus here, instead there is a walk called the owl's path. It takes you past many of the historical sites, following little triangles in the footpath (and with the help of a gps guided app).
    It was a nice way to see the town.
    A lot of places are shut on Mondays and those that are open seem to close 12-2pm.
    I stopped at a patisserie and picked up some rolls and an apple tart before coming back to the hotel. I ended up falling asleep. I'm finding one day a week I need half a day to relax and recharge.

    I'm eating in the hotel restaurant tonight.
    I decided to have the house aperitif which I think is a mix of a local white wine and orange perfumed ginger syrup. It is nice but like most alcohol for me, I drink it for the experience rather than the enjoyment.

    It's been interesting to compare the breakfasts in the different hotels in London, Pertisau/Insbruck and now Dijon (I self catered in Munich).

    The english breakfast was all about the hot food - two types of eggs; sausages (meat and vegetarian); bacon, lots of bacon; hash browns; baked beans and I'm sure there was more hot food. Both white and wholemeal sliced bread as well as rolls and some pastries.

    The Austrain breakfasts had multiple types of wholemeal/multigrain/rye breads (not sliced), rolls, one type of egg available and one made to order (bolied or scrambled) and sliced white bread for toast. The pastries and flavoured breads (chocolate bread covered in chocolate) range was huge.The cold meats and cheese range was huge and cut up salad items were also available.

    The french breakfast this morning had one small loaf of dark bread, the rest was types of white bread and rolls. No sliced bread. Croissants and pain au chocolat were the only pastries (I think). Small fluffy pancakes were also availabe.
    The only eggs available were scrambled and they were delicious, so light and fluffy.
    A small range of cold meats, no smoked salmon which was available in England and Austria.

    The food tonight has been exquisite. I tried to choose french foods although I did pass on the steak tartare. If it had been an entree size I may have tried it.
    I started with a ham and asparagus terrine. The ham wasn't sliced thinly but had been slow cooked and pulled off the bone. It was served with some type of foam with mustard seeds through it.
    Main was roast guinea fowl and asparagus. It was okay but a bit gamey for me taste.
    Dessert combined some of Dijon's specialities - blackcurrent sorbet and gingerbread served on a meringue. Very nice.

    I just watched the steak tartare being made at the table. At first I thought they were making a dressing for ceaser salad and putting semi dried tomatoes in it but when he started piling the dressed "tomatoes" on the plate into a large mound I realised it was the steak tartare.

    I made myself use some french phrases tonight: "table for one", "speak english", "bill please". I couldn't manage full sentences but it is a start.
    I still want to use Ja instead of oui.

    Photos
    The owl at Notre Dame Cathedral, it lacks detail because people rub it for luck.
    Owl path marker
    Dijon street
    Ducal palace
    Ham and asparagus terrine
    Dessert    Read more

  • Michelle CreasyEurope
    Day 21

    Of transport and toilets

    September 13, 2016 in France ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    I had a few plans for today, they didn't quite work out but the alternatives were good.

    I started the day out at The Market. It is a fresh food market with lots of fruit and veg, cheese and meat.
    All the chickens still had their feet and heads attached. I can understand the feet but do people cook the heads as well?
    They had raw milk and raw cream!
    All I bought was a nectarine but it was delicious.
    The range of onions they had was huge.

    It was here I had my first trouble with the toilet. I didn't have to pay, which is a first for me in France but there was no toilet seat. Why do they do this?
    I couldn't work out how to flush it. It looked like the button had its cover missing but no matter how much I pushed and jiggled - no result. In the end I took the top off the cistern to try pushing down directly. In the process of all of this I pulled up on the apparatus - success! Seriously you pull up on the button to flush.

    I had planned next to take a bus to a village not to far away. I eventually found what I thought was the bus stop, near a park so I sat in the park and waited and waited. The bus was there but no driver. I eventually gave up, bought an all day ticket for Dijon public transport and got on a tram (there are only two tram lines in Dujon). I stayed on the tram until the end if the line. I was hoping it was somewhere interesting but it appeared to be a commercial area. I got off the tram, waited for it to change tracks and got back on.
    I got off at Republic square and had some lunch, a ham and cheese roll from a food van and sat in the square.

    I decided to go out to Lake Kir, a manmade lake on the outskirts. After waiting for the bus on the wrong side of the road, I crossed the road to discover the bus didn't stop at that stop, watched it go round the corner, found the right stop and waited for the next bus I got on about 30 mins after I arrived at the first stop.

    There were about 3 stops alongside the lake according to google maps. I should have gotten off at the first stop, I didn't. So I stayed on the bus until most others got off so I got off too. I think it was a residental village so I crossed the road and waited for the bus to come back. I got a strange look from the bus driver.

    This time I got off at the correct stop.
    There is a small weir which was pretty.
    On reading the signs I noted there were toilets down by the beach. I hadn't been since the flushing debacle about 5 hours earlier (you needed to know that didn't you).
    The beach was fine dirt by a part of the lake that had some kind of net to keep the algae out. People were sunbaking but no one swimming.

    Anyway, to the toilets I went. Yeh, no. They were squat toilets. I'm too old and too inflexible to start using squat toilets. I didn't need to go that badly.

    I went for a walk around the lake and found the canal that runs past it. There was a lock there so I was able to have a look. I still don't understand properly how they work but it was cool to see one.

    Back to the hotel for a rest (I had to wait 20 minutes for the bus, having missed the previous one by 2 minutes)

    I had planned to go to the hotel's other restaurant but it turns out they have two restaurants and one menu.

    So back to the same square as Sunday night. This time I sat at a skewer restaurant.
    I had sausage skewers and then duck on a skewer. The servings were huge. There's no low carb here. Both courses came with potato and they also brought bread.
    Do Perth restaurants give out complimentary bread anymore? I've had it at each meal here.

    Tomorrow I head to Paris. I have mixed feelings about it. I've said all along I know God knows how many days I have, where I am won't change that but now I need to put that faith into practise. Untested faith is easy.

    About half an hour ago 4 people rode up on 3 motorbikes, all dressed in leather and with helmets on, revving their bikes as some do. I did watch them carefully, especially the passenger. Obviously nothing happened but with the arrest of a cell in Germany it does make you think.
    I'm self catering in Paris so I don't plan on going out much at night.

    Photos:
    Lock on Burgandy canal
    Live sea snails
    Onions!
    House in random little town the bus took me to.
    Lake Kir
    Beach at lake Kir    Read more

  • Michelle CreasyEurope
    2
    Day 22

    Paris in an afternoon

    September 14, 2016 in France ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I'm in Paris. The trip from Dijon was about an hour and a half. I definitely prefer travelling by train.

    My check in luck abandoned me here. Up until now if I've arrived before check in time my room has been ready. I knew I was pushing it arriving at 12 but thought I'd try.
    I was able to leave my luggage so then set out to explore the local area. Around the corner was a metro stop. "Why not?" I thought? After several goes I found the entrance for those without tickets, negotiated the ticket machine and bought a 5 day ticket.
    Next hurdle was working out how to get through the entrance gate. After trying to swipe it (like those with cards did) I realised I had to feed my little piece of paper into a slot and it popped out again 20cm further up the gate.

    I was in, now where to go? There are two lines at the station so four options. Luckily the first train I got on (without consulting the map) took me to the Louvre.
    From there I was able to find the hop on hop off bus and spent a lovely 2 hours seeing the major sights of Paris.
    By the time I had completed the circle I was ready to head back to the hotel.

    Around the corner is a small supermarket, bakery, fruit and veg shop and a butchet. I picked up enough supplies to cook tea. It was nice to have a home cooked meal.
    I have vague plans for tomorrow but apparently there is a general strike planned so I will play it be ear.

    Photos
    Eiffel tower
    Countryside between Dijon and Paris
    River Seine
    Acr de Triomphe
    Louvre    Read more

  • Michelle CreasyEurope
    1
    Day 23

    When police close the area where you are

    September 15, 2016 in France ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Well today was interesting.
    As I mentioned in yesterday's post a strike was planned for today. I couldn't find any information online about it (except that flights had been cancelled) so I went about my day as planned.

    I caught the bus to the Marche Bastille (open air market). Now that I was finally in a market and I could buy stuff I was a bit overwhelmed. I just wanted enough to last while I'm here.

    I eventually bought some fish, chicken, veg (including chanterelles), cheese and dried sausage.

    While I was shopping I was vaguely aware of the building police presence but not that concerned as there is a large police station at the hotel end of the street. By the time I left though there would have been at least twenty police vans (with multiple officers inside) on the surrounding streets.

    At the bus stop the electronic sign said something like "no stop" so I assumed the bus drivers had joined the strike.
    Consulting my transit app showed I could use the metro. Except the station was shut.

    I still wasn't sure what was happening, just assuming it was due to the strike. I made my way back to the hotel on foot. At one place the police had blockaded the street and I had to ask an officer if I could go through. With a look of bemusement he told me I could. I realised afterwards they were keeping people out, not in.

    It had been raining through all this so even with an umbrella I was quite wet. I dried off and had a rest. I couldn't find anything online about the strike so at about 3pm I set off to do the other hop on hop off tour. The metro station was open but there were 4 stops the train passed through without stopping so I assume they were still closed.

    I felt a bit daft then for avoiding the protests.

    I made my way to the Opera metro stop and then started looking for the bus stop.
    Paris roundabouts seem to have at least 5 streets leading off them. I walked up and the streets leading off this roundabout looking for the bus stop (I'd been there yesterday so I knew what it looked like). Google maps kept saying I was 10m away but I couldn't see it.
    Eventually I realised that there was a difference between "place de l'Opera" and "avenue de l'Opera" and I found the right place.

    A bus pulled up just as I got there and I did a tour of the Monmarte district. It was nearly 4:30 by the time I got on the bus, not really the right time to be driving through central Paris.

    The traffic is crazy. There are few lane markings and traffic lights seem to be a suggestion. The tour was interesting but we spent a long time sitting in traffic.

    I came back via a different Metro line but it appeared that all the stations were open.
    Once back in the hotel I could see footage of the demonstrations this afternoon and no longer felt daft for staying away.
    I support anyone's right to protest, especially against tough labour laws but I'm glad I wasn't there. The police appeared ready for violence.

    Photos
    Police vehicles at Marche Bastille
    Marche Bastille (market)
    I think they are cucumbers
    Police barricade
    Opera house
    "The most famous red windmill in the world". Not sure I know of any more red windmills.    Read more

  • Michelle CreasyEurope
    Day 24

    Attractions I wasn't going to visit

    September 16, 2016 in France ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    A wet and dreary morning to start. The Eiffel tower was first up on the agenda.
    Getting there was relatively simple - metro then bus. I like the metro and with the City Mapper app I haven't done too badly so far (except for yesterday's debacle).

    I was actually surprised that I wanted to go up the tower at all. In Australia I thought I'd probably be happy to see it from the ground but I really wanted to go up. Partly I think because it is iconic Paris and partly because it is such a magnificent structure.

    I had heard a lot about crowds and long line waits. I moved through the first line quickly, that was just the first security line. I had to ditch my water bottle.

    Once through security there were four ticket offices, one for each "leg" of the tower. I happened to chose the west leg and quickly bought a ticket and got into the first lift. It took us to the second floor where I then got into another lift to go to the top. The trip up was a bit disconcerting as we could see out. Not as bad as the ski jump in Innsbruck though.

    The weather cleared by the time I got to the top. It was crowded but not too crowded. The views were fantastic. I joined the selfie takers. I don't take many selfies but this was a special occasion.

    From the top (which is open) I walked down to the next level which was enclosed. That had a lot of information with important facts such as Buffalo Bill visited the tower.

    The structure really is magnificent.

    From there I went on a cruise of the river Seine. Somebody (Sarah W?) told me not to bother and I should have heeded her advice. The commentary wasn't great and the views were better from the bus. The house boats were lovely to look at though.

    At the Eiffel tower I had heard a woman telling some tourists about the Louvre Carousel, an underground shopping centre next door to the Lourve. I went and had a look but it was all a bit upmarket for me.

    I returned to the Louvre in the evening. It is open until 10pm on Fridays. I thought I'd start with the Mona Lisa then just wander. I actually started with Louis XIV because I can't read a map. With the help of an app I found my way to the Mona Lisa. The crowd wasn't too bad and I was pleasantly surprisef by the painting. I was expecting it to be much smaller and with the help of the commentary I was able to appreciate some of the genius behind it.

    I wandered around the Italian paintings then found the way up to the French paintings. French landscapes of the second half of the 19th century seems to be my favoured style.

    I was a bit wary coming back on the metro at night but there was plenty of people about as let's face it, 10pm on a Friday night in Paris isn't that late.

    Photos:
    Eiffel tower
    View from tower
    From under the tower
    Houseboat
    Mona Lisa
    Painting by Alfred Sisley - the style I like    Read more

  • Michelle CreasyEurope
    Day 25

    Reflections

    September 17, 2016 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A summary of my experiences

    Flights - not nearly as bad as I was expecting. The extra room/bed made all the difference

    London - so much hotter than I expected. The amount of people really shocked me.
    My favourite activity was probably The bodyguard. I also really liked Hyde Park.

    Munich - the English gardens were my favourite. I enjoyed my meal of Spatzle and ---.
    What surprised me most - the amount of potato I ate.

    Innsbruck - I wish I had spent more time in Innsbruck. Pressed to pick a favouite / the cable car to the alps.

    Achensee - there was very little not to like. Once I reached the Dripping rock I literally thought "I can go home now"
    I surprised myself with the difficulty of the walks I did.
    Half board was great.

    Dijon - I don't think I saw Dijon's full potential. Not getting the hang of the public transport contributed to that. I had some good food though!

    Languages - in each of the continental Europe countries I stayed in instructions in the hotel etc were usually given in three languages - the language of the country, english and then it varied.
    Germany had french, Austria had Italian and France had Spanish.

    Packing - what did I use most
    What didn't I use
    What surprised me

    What have I learnt

    Most useful apps    Read more

  • Michelle CreasyEurope
    12
    Day 25

    Degas, Monet, Manet, Cezanne, Sisley ...

    September 17, 2016 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A late start to the day. Last night I was achingly tired. All of me was aching.
    I slept through my alarm and woke after 9. The room has blockout blinds so the light doesn't get in.
    First task was to post some stuff back to myself. Should have been simple right? It probably is if you don't have to translate the address lable and customs forms. It took about 45 minutes.

    Musee d'Orsay was on the agenda today. To get there I had to go through the Tuileries - a formal garden next door to the the Louvre. I had lunch there - a croque monsier - toasted ham and cheese sandwich with the cheese on the outside. It was okay, another french food to check off the list. There were plenty of birds around waiting for crumbs. They were quite bold.

    Across the river was the Musee d'Orsay, a museum in an old railway station. It was beautiful inside. I spent ages in the Impressionist gallery. These paintings are definitely the type I prefer. I was excited to see Edgar Degas' dancer of 14 years. I saw a documentary on it several years ago. I also liked his ballet paintings.
    I spent nearly three hours there. I only left because they were closing.

    On the way home I stopped to go shopping at Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville, a huge department store. I did some shopping and lots of window shopping. There was so much I could have bought...
    Back to the hotel for another home cooked meal - fish and veg. It's been nice to cook simple meals.

    Photos
    Tuileries
    Bird at lunch
    Love locks - people/lovers write their names on the lock, attach the lock the the bridge and throw the key in the river.
    Ballet rehearsel on the stage by Edgar Degas
    Dancer of 14 years
    Starry night by van Gough    Read more

  • Michelle CreasyEurope
    1
    Day 26

    Montmartre

    September 18, 2016 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today is my last day in Paris. Of course you can always stay somewhere longer but I think this has been the perfect length for me at this time.

    Sacre-Corur is the Basillica. It is a beautiful cathedral. It's at the top of a hill overlooking Paris.

    I took the funicular to the top of the hill. It was quite overcast so the views weren't great.

    The longest lines are always for security.
    Mass was being celebrated inside. It continued for about 15 minutes. Tourists were still able to walk around the edge of the cathedral. I stood with the congregation until mass was finished and then sat.

    I know God is everywhere but I do like the mood being in such surroundings produces.
    This carthedral has clean lines, the decoration is not as ornate as I had expected. I like the simpler designs.

    After about an hour I made my way to Montmarte square. There are artists painting and selling their paintings as well as doing portraits.

    I had lunch in the square. The two french dishes I had wanted to try while in France were croque monsier and an omlette.
    The restaurant I chose had omlettes on the menu. They also had frogs legs! So I had both.
    The frogs legs were okay. The were dusted in flour, fried and served with a tomato garlic mix. There is a lot of bones, more than chicken wings. I gave up trying to use a knife and fork and used my fingers.
    The omlette fines herbs was nice but I suspect it contained a lot of butter.
    I gradually made my way down the bottom of the hill.

    At all the tourist spots thetr are people selling cheap souvenirs outside the entrances. Everything is one euro. It is obviously illegal as I saw them scatter at the Eiffel tower when the police turned up. They don't hassle people, just calling one euro, one euro, one euro. On my first day, which was quite hot I bought water from one of them.
    I didn't really like seeing them at the Basillica, they were at the top but not inside the grounds.

    At the bottom of the hill there were also men playing the shell game - where there is a ball under one of three cups and you have to guess which cup. People were gambling €50. Each time I watched I was able to correctly pick the cup with the ball under it but the people handing over the money always guessed incorrectly. So I'm not sure how it is meant to work but I didn't play.

    As well as a strong police presence wherever I have been, the army has also been around. They patrol in groups of four and it is a reminder that France is under a state of emergency.

    The only other place I really wanted to see was Bastille square. Once I got there I wasn't sure why. It is just a square, not even a pretty one by French standards. So I made my way down to the river.
    I sat and watched the boats and people. A nice way to finish my time in Paris.

    Photos
    Basillica
    Main dome of the Basillica
    Montmarte
    Omelette fines herbs
    Basin de l'Arsenal - leading from Bastlle square to the Seine
    Notre Dame cathedral from the river    Read more

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