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A 52-day adventure by Linda Read more
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  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    2
    Day 28

    The Desert

    April 27, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    The stars last night were brilliant. You could see them shine and twinkle with no lights to interfere. I didn’t think to get a photo. But I have it in my eyes.

    I had woken up at 2:10am from sleeping in our small complex of traditional desert tents but with real beds and crisp white sheets. About 6 miles or 10k from the nearest town, it sported showers and flush toilets. Wahoo! We spied the other more posh tents nearby. They seemed rather antiseptic.

    We hiked up the dunes to catch the sunset before dinner, but alas, the clouds foiled it. It was nice to trod barefoot up the soft, soft sand. On the way down, I found a full nearly-purple snake skin.

    The tents were kinda hot at 10 when we crawled in to get some sleep; however, the momma kitten and her four babies had other ideas. They were definitely cute, but we didn’t want cute kitty pee all over our bags, so we attempted to flush them out. We were aided by this nice young man in a kaftan. I was only in my cloth tank top and shorts for sleeping, so he got quite the eyeful and then preceded to crawl around our beds (Gail and mine) to remove the critters. We joked that this is the only Moroccan man who will be in our beds this trip!

    (Afterwards) I soaked my tank top with some water to sleep. It cooled me down nicely. Somewhere later in the night we heard the jackals howling.

    I woke up in time to climb the dunes again to see the sunrise at 6:34am. Mr. Sunny did not disappoint. He turned the beigey pink sand into an orangeish glow.

    After breakfast our bags were taken by jeep and we took the 10km back by camel. Mine was called Hamama. He was a good camel. At one point, too good. I was stuck riding behind one of our tour members who has been kind of a pain. She had a hard time staying centered on the saddle and the stress of it made her need her inhaler. She couldn’t get it out of her bag so the camel guy had to stop, get her off the camel and fix/adjust her saddle. When her camel kneeled down, mine did too. I was glad I was holding on cause otherwise I would have been tossed in the sand. She still couldn’t ride straight so I spent the last 20 minutes worrying (as did the camel guy) and telling her to straighten up. Oy.

    That was yesterday and this morning. Thursday we stopped to visit a family of Macaques. They seemed to have a fairly decent gig with tourists feeding them peanuts and other things provided by vendors. These displays of wild animals as roadside attractions makes me sad.

    Mohamed, our tour guide took us on a short but fast hike along a river that was mostly dry. I didn’t get much of a chance to stop and look at birds, but it was nice to stretch my legs and work a little. This is a familiar place for Mohamed and you could see it in his gate and body. This was home.

    Another local guide took us through the grounds of the mosque. Same as always. Beautiful and peaceful. We had Berber pizza for lunch. It was good. Top and bottom crust with either a vegetable or meat (beef) stuffing. Nice change from tagine and couscous dishes.

    Our lux hotel had a lovely and not too cold pool. I spent my morning swimming and birding (with limited success but lots of fun).

    Overall, in spite of the heat, I’m loving the desert.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    Day 30

    Tinghir Take One - The Cranky Post

    April 29, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We arrived last night to discover our room overlooked the parked buses at nearly eye-level to drivers loading and unloading baggage. The other side was a nice view of an abandoned Kasbah (gigantic private very old home). I’m not sure if it is our luck or a two women thing, but we don’t get the best rooms.

    This morning we took a 5-hour hike which should have been four. One of our tour mates was very, very, very slow on the way up. It was frustrating to watch him stroll up, take another photo while the rest of us waited. This is the husband of the women who couldn’t keep her behind on the camel. Another person who was fine on the way up had her knees just really struggle on the way down. Our guide finally had three of us go ahead to meet up with our bus driver on the way down to join our non-hiking group for lunch. They had been waiting an hour for us already. The remaining three showed up another hour later. The group protested waiting another hour for the three latecomers to eat, so Mohamed agreed to get us back on the bus to the hotel.

    I’m now stuck in the lobby waiting for Gail to return from a (hopefully) short visit to town. She has our only key and the manager is not here.

    Ok, that’s my cranky Tinghir post.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    232
    Day 31

    Tinghir Take Two - A Happy Birthday

    April 30, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After leaving Hamama behind (my camel), we headed to Tinghir. Along the way Mohamed showed us some 8th century irrigation and water systems that bring water to far flung settlements. Some are still operating. The ingenuity is evident and maintenance kept up until recently are a testament to the people here.

    Driving in to Tinghir with its enchanting pink adobe buildings surrounding a lush green valley was restorative. Flash floods keep the homes and buildings always up on the sides of the gardens.

    We settled in to the hotel and then three of us went on a short walk/hike in the garden. Mohamed is a fount of information and a well-developed dad-joke sense of humor. It is a pleasure to get to know him a little bit. He has talked a lot about many cultural practices and family customs. The sexism is baked into the system, and I haven’t used proper pronouns for “my partner”. He may be fine with it, but he might not be.

    Today we hiked up and over the spectacular Todra Gorge. Saw a Blue Rock Thrush at the bottom. Very pretty. At the top we had tea (thyme tea with a little sugar) with the elder of the family in their traditional camp. They live in this high canyon raising goats, sheep and rabbits for food. They are 16 in all. This man doesn’t know how old he is but Mohamed tells us that he has a grandson who is 65. That would make him close to 100 years old. His hands now tremble which reminded me of my dad. It was a lovely and very special visit with this very generous and welcoming family.

    The hike took five long hours (see cranky post) but it was beautiful. At the very end just before we reached the restaurant for lunch, I saw a bird I was so hoping to see, a Hoopoe. I included a photo from the internet just so you know why it was sooooo cool to see it.

    So….. in addition to the hike, today is also special because it is Gail’s birthday! She turned 64 - and has joked about being only one year away from Medicare.

    Stacey arranged with Mohammed to get a birthday cake - chocolate as part of dinner tonight. Gail is so cute but quite oblivious to the plan. She has been thinking she doesn’t want to go with the group to eat and is not sure why Mohamed has told us to meet at 7:30pm for dinner as it isn’t on the trip itinerary. I have suggested we just go to the meeting with the group to get the plan for what will happen tomorrow. Teehee.

    She almost didn’t go to dinner until Stacey gave her the hairy eyeball that she was coming to dinner. Much merriment and singing. And they spelled her name incorrectly - she was absolutely charmed.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    2
    Day 33

    Valley of 1000 Kasbahs & Atlas Mountains

    May 2, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    It was market day on Monday outside Ait Ben Haddou. You can get just about anything you want including live chickens, rabbits and pigeons. It looked funny to see the unlucky street pigeons in a cage waiting to be dinner. I purchased mortar and pestle made from a desert tree.

    After a long drive through the Hollywood of Morocco (lots of movies have been filmed here), we went to the famous kasbah which just means a rich family’s house and complex. This one was built and owned by a Jewish Berber family. The views from the top were expansive.

    Yesterday we had a lovely visit with a Berber family of the Atlas Mountains that served a traditional Berber tea. Enchanting visit and the cutest little boy who was loving the attention. The snacks were tasty too - almond, argon oil and beet sugar dip. Yum.

    A late afternoon poolside with a sort-of gin and lemonade tonic surrounded by noisy birds was really nice.

    Two long bus days. Tomorrow we head to the beach on the Atlantic.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    Day 35

    Essaouira

    May 4, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Beach town - sort of. We had a quick orientation from Mohamed and then instantly forgot. It isn’t hard to figure it out. Ocean and modest-sized walled medina provide enough direction.

    It was too cold to swim, so we took a long walk along the expansive sandy beach. After nearly two weeks on tour, it was nice to be left to our own devices to explore, shop, spy the locals and art.

    And while I do love the flavours of Morocco, we were craving something other than tagine, cous cous, and pastilla. We found a really good Lebanese place. Hummus, pita, falafel, etc. and a pretty good Sauvignon Blanc. It cost all of $20USD. A splurge.

    I have barely cracked my book but looking out the window’s the thing.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    Day 36

    The Whole Gang

    May 5, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    I haven’t been on a tour for a very long time. The story is not complete without a little bit about the people I have met and grown fond of.

    Mohamed worked hard to keep us safe, fed, and housed. He also has a serious case of bad dad jokes. He keyed right in to mine and the California gals’ feminist leanings with jabs aimed at women. Worked every time. He shared his heart with us with his stories of his stalker ex-girlfriend and a little about home. He’s looking at immigrating to Canada, Vancouver specifically. I hope he does.

    Besides the LA group, I think I spent more time with Sophie. We did everything - the hikes up the dunes, Todra Gorge and through gardens. She seems to be committed to joy and being active in her life. I liked her open spirit and easygoing manner.

    Mark, Sophie’s partner, ran for shade at every opportunity. He’s had issues with skin cancer, so it made good sense. He also loves adventure travel. We got a chance to chat about his variety of jobs all so different and also Canada. I shared my epic TripIt notes on Sheryl and my itinerary through Nova Scotia, Newfoundland and Labrador. I hope they get a chance to do some of it.

    Alexis was a delight. So funny and self-deprecating calling herself dull from time to time. A complete lie! Love that she sweared almost as much as I did. Refreshing and silly. I addition to the goofball stuff, she works in occupational therapy. Sounds like a good fit for her obvious kindness.

    The lovebirds. Lorena never ever had a hair out of place. Steve was clearly enchanted with her - looks and go-for-it attitude. They held hands through the medinas and on our walks/hikes. He also wanted to either know where the party was or get the party started.

    Ok, so you’re not supposed to pick your favorite, but Jo and Tim are/were. I’m not sure how Jo doesn’t collapse at the end of the day from laughing or smiling so hard. Her enthusiasm for the experiences clearly affected her and infused the group. Tim is complicated. He has an artist’s heart and eye and delicious sense of humor. I do like that. They are planning a trip across the US including Montana, DC, Florida and places in between. I hope they find what they seek there.

    Pamela and Ian come as a pair. Devoted meat eaters and somewhat royalist, they seemed nice and quite happy. They had a very British dry sense of humor that I liked a lot.

    Ah, Terry and Pete. What can I say. I should have liked them better as they are staunch unionist, but I didn’t. They seemed to take up too much space for me.

    Our driver Abdul is getting married at the end of the month. If he navigates marriage like he did that bus, he will live a long, loving and happy life.

    Last but not least, the California gals. What can I say about my roommate? It is so wonderful to have such a long-time friend who doesn’t drive you crazy after a week together. I have had a spectacularly fun two weeks playing with her (and two weeks to go). Anna-Ruth shopped her way across Morocco purchasing beautiful things with great memories. It was fun to watch her come out a bit more each day. She is really delightful. I got to spend a morning getting to know Stacey. She has a quiet strength and perseverance that comes from having a storied life. I do admire her. And her hearty laugh. I’ll get four more days in Spain with her. Yay.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    12
    Day 38

    Marrakesh - Updated

    May 7, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    *** Led by our dancin’ fool Mohammed, we danced and laughed so hard it was hard to stay upright. Pam (surprisingly) and Gail (not surprisingly) got up as soon as the DJ got going. A perfectly wonderful end to a great trip.

    *******

    Tonight is our last in Morocco. I’m ready. We toured the old part of town (the Medina) and visited a Berber art museum and garden. And took a much deserved afternoon off laying around in the freakishly normal hotel room. It had electrical outlets, towels, air conditioning that worked, was spotless and had a little fridge! Not seen in Morocco. A treat.

    Tonight we say our goodbyes to our tour mates and Mohammed and it’s on to Barcelona, Spain.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    Day 39

    Barcelona - Day One

    May 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Four nights and three full days in Barcelona is not enough time to enjoy this magical city. Everywhere you turn is another architectural wonder.

    Sagrada Familia is still under construction. They expect the tower dedicated to Jesus will be completed in 2026. Maybe. They are shooting for 2036 to complete the whole thing. Fat chance. When completed, it will absorb surrounding blocks displacing renters who have mistakenly expected that it would never happen…

    The cool and warm light and dedication to the earth - plants and animals really spoke to me. The two pillars at the entrance to the Nativity side were placed on the backs of turtles; one land turtle and the other from the sea. I wonder if Gaudi knew of Turtle Island.

    I went up one of the towers. What a view! And you could see how much construction was going on. It is a work in progress.

    Next I visited a medical complex dedicated to the poor. It’s called Recinte Modernista Sant Pau. A dozen magnificently adorned buildings with tiles and art and gardens were designed to provide beauty for patients in their recovery. Visiting rooms in each building were surrounded by glass for natural light and garden views. I sat for a while drinking in the place.

    I made my way back to the hotel to grab Gail for our Gracia neighborhood self-guides walking tour. We mostly followed it but kept getting pleasantly distracted by more street music and art. And gelato.

    Great day.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    Day 40

    Barcelona - Day Two

    May 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Today was officially a wandering day with a few chosen highlights to hit. La Rambla, frankly isn’t all that interesting. Just a series of touristy/bad to meh restaurants and shops. I do like the hustle bustle but not that.

    We stumbled upon a celebration set in one of the many public squares (Saint Jaume) for May 9th or Día de Europa. The next day a huge music performance with Sufi dancers covered the plaza.

    First stop was the expansive La Catedral. It seemed less packed with dead guy stuff and more mother and child/Mary and baby Jesus/The Virgen and Child. You get the picture. The Choir seats are my favorite, each carved with different stories and people. Everything is so old here. Some dating back to the 14th century. Each successive century leaves its mark culminating in a record of the times and manners of worship.

    We went to the roof to take in the views across Barcelona and hear the bells chime in 11 o’clock. We could hear the singing from the Europa festival too. Nice.

    After a good Greek food lunch we went to the Basilica de Santa Maria Del Mar. It felt unhurried and peaceful as I made my way around each of the stalls (I’m sure they aren’t called stalls). We googled the difference between a church and basilica. It’s the shape of the building (no cross) and that it was used as a marketplace with evenly spaced aisles - I think.

    I visited the Picasso Museum alone. I loved it. It took you through the progression of his different periods and study. He started at 13 producing incredible works. It held few line drawings and only one of what I call his “twat series”. Those works are just for shock value to me. The portraits of his colleagues and friends in art school and salons captured personalities with obvious affection.

    Gail graciously agreed to accompany me to an Argentinian restaurant which had rabbit on the menu. My favorite. However, they only have rabbit if you order it one day in advance. False bunny. I ordered it for tomorrow and we left for a tapas place nearby where I got a pisco sour and Gail got her caipiroska with scant vodka and sweet maracuyá (passion fruit). We were both happy.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
    2
    Day 41

    Barcelona - Day Three

    May 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Today was Montjuïc. And more stairs. Lots of stairs. We started with half the modern art floor of the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. It’s gigantic. They housed posters from the resistance during Franco’s rise to absolute power. Great narratives and sequencing of the works. That always makes me happy.

    Of course I forgot to
    bring my binoculars, but I could ID the Monk and Rose-ringed Parakeets, a magpie, serin and other common birds.

    Gail went down to the Montjuic prison and I was supposed to go to the Miro Museum. I trekked back to finish the second half of the art museum. It was fabulous. Beautifully curated. It told a complete story from one room to the next. I thoroughly enjoyed it.

    Gail and I went to a flamenco performance after a short nap. It was just an hour but packed with singing, guitar playing, and of course, dancing. Costumes we gorgeous. They put on a good show. Except the old ladies who talked during much of the performance, it was super fun.

    I returned to Tierra del Fuego (solo - not a great place for a vegetarian) for a truly delectable conejo asada with a couple glasses of red wine. The cook and waitress joked with me that I had to finish it! In Spanish! So fun to be able to play in Spanish. (Gracias a Pablo)

    Tomorrow we head down to Sevilla.    Read more

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