A 52-day adventure by Linda Read more
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  • Day 51

    Home

    May 20, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Thirty-six hours traveling and seven weeks away from home - four countries, 20 different places to sleep and even more places visited, I will need much time to process all that I experienced, learned, felt, and realized. I will continue to start collecting these bits in other posts as I can. I am feeling deeply enriched and exhausted.Read more

  • Day 49

    Madrid

    May 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We squeezed as much joy out of our last day together on vacation - is it really vacation if one is retired? I don’t know.

    In any case, it was the Día del Museo! All museums were free today. We started strolling from our hotel on the Puerta del Sol past some pretty spectacular buildings. What is it with magnificent ministry buildings? There were two of the most outstanding ones for the ministry of agriculture, go figure. Loved it.

    First museum up: Thyssen-Bornemisza. I do love this art museum. It is a private collection donated to Madrid. It is organized chronologically. I skipped the early stuff and started with 19th century works. Exquisite collection. Eloquent curation and storytelling. Gail isn’t as much a museum person but… it was the day of museums!

    Next up was the Prado. I went in and Gail found a sunny spot to read. After about 2 hours in the Thyssen, I was just a bit too overloaded so I whizzed through some of the collections. Pretty amazing.

    I collected Gail and we went in search of a chocolate donut that Sheryl and I had the last time we were in Madrid 20 years ago. I remember it was near the train station so off we went. We didn’t find the donut but we did find some giant and slightly disturbing baby heads. I only took a shot of the sleeping one. The awake one looked maniacal. There are baby heads in front of the Boston art museum. Another question. What is up with that?

    One more museum. Gail insisted that I see Guernica by Picasso which is housed in the Reina Sophia. They have a huge collection of resistance posters and artworks helping to place the work in its proper context. So heartbreaking.

    On our last night we had dinner with some friends of Gail’s from her days in Nicaragua in the early 80’s (after our work together in Chicago for the ERA). They spoke only Spanish. Miguel, an author, Isaac, a professor, and a lovely woman (I can’t remember her name - Gail? Help me out here). The four of them plus one more had lived together in a big house in Nicaragua while organizing in support of the socialist government. Heady times. We talked about Spanish politics, US politics (it is like a train wreck - everyone just can’t look away) and a bit of old times. As a professor, Isaac was pretty easy to understand as was the woman. Miguel, not so much. He spoke very quickly and had a thick accent dropping ends of words and substituting “th” for “c”. I got about a third of what he talked about. It was fun to experience the language outside of a transaction or learning environment and just enjoy the conversation. They were so interesting in all the ways old friends with political leanings can be. It was fun to participate and watch these comrades argue and laugh together.

    After dinner, Isaac walked Gail and I home, sort of. He took us on a tour of some pretty special historic buildings and memorials telling stories of the deep history of the place. At over 25,000 steps and a plane to catch the next day, we bid farewell at about 11:30pm. I’ll sleep on the plane.

    In the morning, Gail got up (she has one more day in Madrid) to get me to the metro station. We had a teary goodbye, and I was on my way home - in just 36 hours. On my way.
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  • Day 47

    Valencia

    May 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    It took us all day, three cabs and three long train trips to get from Granada to Valencia through Córdoba where we spent an hour looking for coffee and breakfast.

    But we arrived to enjoy relaxing days at the beach. Our hotel abutted the silky smooth sandy beach that reminded us of the Moroccan dunes.

    Gail had never been in the Mediterranean Sea and I realized I had never swum in it either. The water was sooo pleasant. Cool enough and perfect after sitting in the sun.

    It was really nice not to have an agenda for the two days save my quest for good paella. You could get it on the strip of restaurants just outside our hotel, but I had scoped out where to get some good traditional Valencian paella which has chicken and rabbit. It was very good (although the rabbit was a bit dry). You could only order it for two, so I got the whole thing and had it every day for lunch. Num num.

    On day two, I rented a bike share bike to ride through the Central Park that snaked its way to the old quarter. It used to be a riverbed, but flooding made them rethink things. The magnificent aquarium and Museum of Arts and Sciences dominated the south end. The architecture of both places contained these enormous shallow pools. It felt very much like a waterway.

    On the recommendation of my sister, we visited the Fallero Museum. Each neighborhood in Valencia enters a paper mache and plastic large and small sculptures to this annual competition and festival. The winning sculpture is displayed here and the losers are burned in a spectacular blaze. Sounds wild and a bit toxic. Burning man?

    I could feel the pull of home here and also the beginnings of separation anxiety as we reached the end of a month traveling together with Gail.

    I could see living here in Valencia. It has beach, old city, interesting neighborhoods and great food. Or at least spend a whole week.

    Tomorrow is our final stop in Madrid.
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  • Day 44

    Granada

    May 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The AirBnb was located on a pedestrian street or more accurately a stairway corridor with the most magnificent view of Alhambra. We spent two nights gazing at the changing colors of the beige and pink and red edifices. Even in the daylight it was enchanting.

    I had visited the Alhambra many years ago so I kinda remember how beautiful it was. It was that and more. However, it was somewhat softened by having visited Real Alcazar in Sevilla and about a bazillion Moroccan mosques, palaces and madrasas in Morocco.

    Besides the wonderful wandering, I scheduled us up for an hour and a half in a bathhouse to soak our weary bodies in a beautiful, quiet place. The cold tub plunge made my skin tingle after a long hot soak. Inside the baths looked like the palace walls with plaster-work and tile.

    This was our first (and last) place with a kitchen and washing machine. It was silly to get so excited about putting in a load and hanging it out to dry on a bona fide laundry line out the window.

    I took too many photos in Granda. Take a look at the next post for pictures of the Alhambra.

    Next up, the beach.
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  • Day 42

    Sevilla

    May 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    There are so many impossibly beautiful buildings in Sevilla, Gail and I joked about it as if each new one was an eyesore. Everywhere you turned, there was a new and different architectural style and colour, tile and sculpture. I took a boat-load of pictures.

    The train from Barcelona was very nice. I love the train. I love watching out the window as the landscape changes and colours saturate the view. Once we dumped our bags, went out to start our itinerary of the Real Alcazar. However, we found out that if we purchased tickets that day, we could only enter at 6:30pm and stay until 7:40pm. Not enough time. We ended up getting tickets for the next day.

    So we walked over to the Museo de Bellas Artes. Much of the collection was religious and the angel/Jesus/cherub faces were all, well, weird looking. After it hit the 19th and 20th centuries, I really started to enjoy the art and the different styles and ways artists of the day tell their stories in paint.

    The next day we walked over to the Gothic Cathedral. It was supposed to open at 10:45am - after mass. But the doors were open and so we got a really good look at the place without giving 16 euro to the Catholic Church. We were fine with that. We have gone into a half dozen big, beautiful Catholic Churches. We got the picture. I was happy to grab a photo into the choir where about 10 older men were singing mass all decked out in their finery. How can these guys be so against drag? They have some pretty flashy outfits and splendid shoes - maybe it’s the competition.

    We had plenty of time to make our way through the Parque de Maria Luisa and the Plaza de España. The plaza was built for the 1929 European Expo and they went all out. The tile work representing every province, a short canal for rowing, and a grand plaza. Street performers sang and danced flamenco on the stairs. A perfect spot for those echos of shoes and pleading wails. Gail tried to entice me to row us around the short canal. Looked like a lot of work in the sun for not even a good story.

    We were on time for our 3:30 ticket to the Real Alcazar. Holy moly! The plasterwork and design were more than just reminiscent of Morocco but the real deal. I took lots of pictures, but I spent more time just looking; trying to absorb the place. After three hours of wandering from room to room to garden to terrace, we were quite drunk with it. (And a little vertigo from looking up so much - why do they spend so much of the craft on stuff on the ceiling? What is that about?

    FindPenguins only lets you do 20 photos. That was not enough for the two days in Sevilla. Real Alcazar photos are on the next post.
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  • Day 41

    Barcelona - Day Three

    May 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Today was Montjuïc. And more stairs. Lots of stairs. We started with half the modern art floor of the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. It’s gigantic. They housed posters from the resistance during Franco’s rise to absolute power. Great narratives and sequencing of the works. That always makes me happy.

    Of course I forgot to
    bring my binoculars, but I could ID the Monk and Rose-ringed Parakeets, a magpie, serin and other common birds.

    Gail went down to the Montjuic prison and I was supposed to go to the Miro Museum. I trekked back to finish the second half of the art museum. It was fabulous. Beautifully curated. It told a complete story from one room to the next. I thoroughly enjoyed it.

    Gail and I went to a flamenco performance after a short nap. It was just an hour but packed with singing, guitar playing, and of course, dancing. Costumes we gorgeous. They put on a good show. Except the old ladies who talked during much of the performance, it was super fun.

    I returned to Tierra del Fuego (solo - not a great place for a vegetarian) for a truly delectable conejo asada with a couple glasses of red wine. The cook and waitress joked with me that I had to finish it! In Spanish! So fun to be able to play in Spanish. (Gracias a Pablo)

    Tomorrow we head down to Sevilla.
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  • Day 40

    Barcelona - Day Two

    May 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Today was officially a wandering day with a few chosen highlights to hit. La Rambla, frankly isn’t all that interesting. Just a series of touristy/bad to meh restaurants and shops. I do like the hustle bustle but not that.

    We stumbled upon a celebration set in one of the many public squares (Saint Jaume) for May 9th or Día de Europa. The next day a huge music performance with Sufi dancers covered the plaza.

    First stop was the expansive La Catedral. It seemed less packed with dead guy stuff and more mother and child/Mary and baby Jesus/The Virgen and Child. You get the picture. The Choir seats are my favorite, each carved with different stories and people. Everything is so old here. Some dating back to the 14th century. Each successive century leaves its mark culminating in a record of the times and manners of worship.

    We went to the roof to take in the views across Barcelona and hear the bells chime in 11 o’clock. We could hear the singing from the Europa festival too. Nice.

    After a good Greek food lunch we went to the Basilica de Santa Maria Del Mar. It felt unhurried and peaceful as I made my way around each of the stalls (I’m sure they aren’t called stalls). We googled the difference between a church and basilica. It’s the shape of the building (no cross) and that it was used as a marketplace with evenly spaced aisles - I think.

    I visited the Picasso Museum alone. I loved it. It took you through the progression of his different periods and study. He started at 13 producing incredible works. It held few line drawings and only one of what I call his “twat series”. Those works are just for shock value to me. The portraits of his colleagues and friends in art school and salons captured personalities with obvious affection.

    Gail graciously agreed to accompany me to an Argentinian restaurant which had rabbit on the menu. My favorite. However, they only have rabbit if you order it one day in advance. False bunny. I ordered it for tomorrow and we left for a tapas place nearby where I got a pisco sour and Gail got her caipiroska with scant vodka and sweet maracuyá (passion fruit). We were both happy.
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